Fåfängan is the best place in Stockholm to indulge in the Swedish institution of fika ("fee-kah"). What's that? On the face of it, fika is simply a standard cake and coffee deal, but for the Swedish psyche, it is what the couch was for Freud—a place where we open up, unload, spill the beans, and define who we are. In a setting like Fåfängan (today literally "The Vanity," but more correctly "The Bower" or "The Pavilion"—the restaurant features the best views in the city, north across the waters towards Djurgården) it can go on for hours. What makes this the best fika getaway in Stockholm is its elevated position on a green rise near the eastern tip of Södermalm, on the hill overlooking the Viking ferry terminal. Alas, it's not very convenient to get here, walking along the less-than-charming eastern stretch of Folkungagatan. But think of the way up as the perfect contrast to the serenity on top. Note: Fåfängan is occasionally booked for weddings, so check the website before commencing the climb.