advertisement

Swedish-raised chef Marcus Samuelsson cut his culinary teeth as a teenager in New York, then became a superstar as the head chef of Aquavit there (he was voted "Best Chef" in the city in 2003). Lately Samuelsson has dabbled, a bit, on both sides of the Atlantic, and his latest venture in Sweden is a string of Kitchen & Table restaurants inside Clarion Hotels, this particular one at Amaranten on Kungsholmen. By this stage, anything with Samuelsson's name attached can sell food in Sweden, even though he hasn't been particularly trendy for at least a decade. Those expecting an Aquavit rerun will be disappointed. The menu and atmosphere are more bustling neighborhood eatery than haute cuisine, mixing influences from both of the chef's home countries, with a little Asian twist thrown in for good fun. Think forest mushroom pizza, jerk chicken Caesar salad, or baked Arctic char with ponzu broth. Matching the cuisine, the interiors aim for a clean-but-cluttered living-room. All in all, you get a quality, unpretentious meal in a friendly setting.