Getting There -- Suva is served by Nausori Airport, 19km (12 miles) northeast of downtown near the Rewa River town of Nausori. Express buses operated by Nausori Taxi & Bus Service (tel. 347 7583 in Nausori, or 330 4178 in Suva) are scheduled to depart the airport for downtown Monday to Friday at 8:30am, 9:30am, 11:30am, 2:30pm, 5pm, and 6:30pm. The fare is F$3 (US$1.90/£1) each way. That having been said, I always take one of several taxis waiting at the terminal, whose fares to downtown Suva officially are F$25 (US$16/£8.30). Allow at least 30 minutes for the taxi ride during midday, an hour during morning and evening rush hours.

Express buses leave Nadi airport daily for Suva, a ride of approximately 4 hours on the Queen's Road.

I never drive away from Nadi in my rental car without a good map of Suva, whose streets can seem like a confusing maze, especially at night.

Getting Around -- Hundreds of taxis prowl Suva's streets. Some have meters, but don't count on it. As a rule of thumb, F$2 to F$3.50 (US$1.30-US$2.30/70p-£1.20) will get you to the sites of interest, but plan on F$7 (US$4.50/£2.30) to the Raintree Lodge. If the taxi has a meter, make sure the driver drops the flag. The main taxi stand (tel. 331 2266) is on Central Street, behind the Air Pacific office in the CML Building on Victoria Parade, and on Victoria Parade at Sukuna Park (no phone). I have been very satisfied with Black Arrow Taxis (tel. 330 0541 or 330 0139 in Suva, or 347 7071 in Nausori) and Nausori Taxi & Bus Service (tel. 347 7583 in Nausori, or 330 4178 in Suva), which is based at the Holiday Inn Suva parking lot. Taxis also gather at the Suva Municipal Market.

Although usually crowded, local buses fan out from the municipal market from before daybreak to midnight Monday to Saturday (they have limited schedules on Sun). The fares vary but should be no more than F$2 (US$1.30/70p) to most destinations in and around Suva. Word to the wise: If you're going to ride the bus for the fun of it, do it in Nadi, where you won't get lost and aren't as likely to be robbed.

Tickets are required to park on downtown streets Monday to Friday from 8am to 4:30pm, Saturday from 8am to 12:30pm. Buy the tickets at the silver machines in every block, and display them on your dashboard. On-street parking fees are F20¢ (US13¢/7p) per 15 minutes.

Fast Facts

Bookstores -- The region's largest store is University Book Centre (tel. 331 2500; www.uspbookcentre.com), on the University of the South Pacific campus on Laucala Bay Road (you can order online). Dominion Book Centre, in Dominion Arcade on Thomson Street behind the Fiji Visitors Bureau (tel. 330 4334), has the latest newsmagazines and books on the South Pacific. Another good downtown choice is the book section of Prouds department store (tel. 331 8686), in the Suva Central building on Renwick Road at Pratt Street.

Camera & Film -- Caines Photofast, corner of Victoria Parade and Pratt Street (tel. 331 3211), sells a wide range of film, provides 1-hour processing of color-print film, and will download and print your digital photos.

Currency Exchange -- ANZ Bank, Westpac Bank, and Colonial National Bank have offices with ATMs on Victoria Parade, south of the Fiji Visitors Bureau. ANZ has a walk-up currency exchange window that is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 1pm. GlobalEX, on Victoria Parade at Gordon Street, cashes traveler's checks.

Drugstores -- Suva City Pharmacy, on Victoria Parade in the General Post Office building (tel. 331 7400), is the city's best drugstore. It's open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm, Saturday from 8:30am to 2pm.

Emergencies & Police -- The emergency phone number for police is tel. 917. For fire and ambulance dial tel. 911. Fiji Police's central station (tel. 331 1222) is on Joske Street, between Pratt and Gordon streets.

Eyeglasses -- Dr. Guy Hawley, an American eye specialist, practices at Asgar & Co. Ltd., Queensland Insurance Centre, Victoria Parade (tel. 330 0433).

Healthcare -- Most expatriate residents go to the Suva Private Hospital, 120 Amy St. (tel. 331 3355). It's open 24 hours a day. Colonial War Memorial Hospital, at the end of Ratu Mara Road at Brown Street (tel. 331 3444), is the public hospital (but go to Suva Private Hospital if at all possible).

Internet Access -- Suva has dozens of Internet cafes, many of them on Victoria Parade, and wireless hotspots were being set up at press time. Operated by Fiji's major Internet service provider, Connect Internet Cafe (tel. 330 0777), in the General Post Office building, has high-speed broadband access for F$3 (US$1.90/£1) an hour. It's open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 8pm, Saturday 9am to 8pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm. You can print your e-mails, scan documents, and burn CDs here. The country's overseas phone company, Fiji International Telecommunications Ltd. (FINTEL), has broadband access at its headquarters (tel. 330 1655). It's open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 8pm and charges F$1.50 (US$1/50p) for 20 minutes. A wireless hotspot is at the Esquires branch on Renwick Road at Pratt Street (tel. 330 0082). It's open Monday to Friday 7am to 10pm, Saturday 8am to 10pm, Sunday 9am to 7pm.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- Flagstaff Laundry & Drycleaners, 62 Bau St. (tel. 330 1214), has full 1-day service.

Libraries -- Suva City Library on Victoria Parade (tel. 331 3433) has a small collection of books on the South Pacific. It's open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday 9:30am to 6pm; Wednesday noon to 6pm; Saturday 9am to 1pm. The library at the University of the South Pacific, Laucala Bay Road (tel. 331 3900), has one of the largest collections in the South Pacific.

Mail -- Fiji Post's General Post Office is on Thomson Street, opposite the Fiji Visitors Bureau (Mon-Fri 8am-4:30pm, Sat 9am-noon).

Restrooms -- Sukuna Park, on Victoria Parade, has attended (and reasonably clean) public restrooms, on the side next to McDonald's. You must pay F70¢ (US45¢/25p) to use the toilets, or F$1.20 (US80¢/40p) for a shower. Restrooms are open Monday to Saturday 8am to 3:45pm.

Safety -- Street crime is a serious problem in Suva, so be alert at all times. Do not wander off Victoria Parade after dark; take a taxi. The busy blocks along Victoria Parade between the Fiji Visitors Bureau and the Holiday Inn Suva are relatively safe during the evenings (a local wag says the many prostitutes on the main drag keep the robbers away!), but always protect valuables from pickpockets.

Telephone & Fax -- You can make international calls, send faxes, and surf the 'net at Fiji International Telecommunications Ltd. (FINTEL); tel. 331 2933), in its colonial-style building on Victoria Parade (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm).

Visitor Information & Maps -- The Fiji Visitors Bureau (tel. 330 2433) has an information center in a restored colonial house at the corner of Thomson and Scott streets, in the heart of Suva. It's open Monday to Thursday 8am to 4:30pm, Friday 8am to 4pm, Saturday 8am to noon. The excellent Suva and Lami Town from the Department of Lands & Surveys is often available at Dominion Book Centre.

Water -- The tap water in Suva is safe to drink.

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