Planning a trip to Sweden

Visitor Information

In the United States, contact the Scandinavian Tourist Board, 655 Third Ave., 18th Floor, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/885-9700; www.goscandinavia.com or www.visitsweden.com), at least 3 months in advance for maps, sightseeing information, ferry schedules, and other advice and tips.

In the United Kingdom, contact the Swedish Travel & Tourism Council, 11 Montague Place, London W1H 2AL (tel. 020/7108-6168).

You also can try the website www.visitsweden.com.

Maps -- Many tourist offices supply maps of their districts free, and you also can contact one of the Swedish automobile clubs. Bookstores throughout Sweden also sell detailed maps of the country and of such major cities as Gothenburg and Stockholm. If you plan to tour Sweden, consider the best Road Atlas published: Vägatlas over Sverige, published by Mötormännens Riksförbund. It's detailed and very reliable and is available at most bookstores.

Escorted & Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Sweden's various regions, especially Dalarna and Lapland, offer such a variety of sights and activities that you may want to take an organized tour. The following tours are just a small sample of what's available. Contact your travel agent to learn about tours of interest to you or to design a special one with you in mind.

ScanAm World Tours (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scanamtours.com) offers some of the country's best tours, taking you on Göta Canal cruises or along lakes, on waterways, and into the folkloric district of Dalarna. Minimum tours for 2 nights, including hotels, cost 2,550SEK to 3,100SEK ($510-$620/£255-£310) per person. From here, tours range upward to 7 nights, including hotels, costing 12,930SEK ($2,586/£1,293) per person.

"Gotland Island and the City of Roses" is a cruise on the Gotland Line from Stockholm to Nynäshamn or from Oskarshamn to Visby, including 2 nights at the Visby Hotel or Hotel Solhem. The 3-day tour is available May through September.

Scantours (tel. 800/223-7226; www.scantours.com) offers the most widely diverse tours of Sweden, ranging from Göta Canal cruises to a combined Stockholm and Helsinki jaunt, lasting 5 days and 4 nights.

Passage Tours (tel. 800/548-5960; www.passagetours.com) offers trips to both Stockholm and the "Kingdom of Crystal," with stopovers in such glass factories as Kosta Boda and Orrefors. Trips to the port of Kalmar on the Baltic Sea are also included, as well as visits to the island of Oland.

Fast Facts

American Express -- For local 24-hour customer service in Stockholm, call tel. 08/429-56-00.

Area Code -- The international country code for Sweden is 46. The local city (area) codes are given for all phone numbers in the Sweden chapters.

Business Hours -- Generally, banks are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 3pm. In some larger cities, banks extend their hours, usually on Thursday or Friday, until 5:30pm. Most offices are open Monday to Friday 8:30 or 9am to 5pm (sometimes to 3 or 4pm in the summer); on Saturday, offices and factories are closed, or open for only a half-day. Most stores and shops are open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9:30am to somewhere between 2 and 4pm. Once a week, usually on Monday or Friday, some of the larger stores are open from 9:30am to 7pm (July-Aug to 6pm).

Drinking Laws -- Most restaurants, pubs, and bars in Sweden are licensed to serve liquor, wine, and beer. Some places are licensed only for wine and beer. Purchases of wine, liquor, and imported beer are available only through the government-controlled monopoly Systembolaget. Branch stores, spread throughout the country, are usually open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm. The minimum age for buying alcoholic beverages in Sweden is 21.

Dentists -- For emergency dental services, ask your hotel or host for the location of the nearest dentist. Nearly all dentists in Sweden speak English.

Doctors -- Hotel desks usually can refer you to a local doctor, nearly all of whom speak English. If you need emergency treatment, your hotel also should be able to direct you to the nearest facility. In case of an accident or injury away from the hotel, call the nearest police station.

Driving Rules -- You drive on the right, and all passengers are required to wear seatbelts. It is mandatory to have low-beam headlights on at all times. Chances are your rental car will have automatic headlights that go on when the engine is turned on. Speed limits depend on the area you're driving through, of course, and are 30kmph (19 mph) in school districts or playground areas, rising to as high as 110kmph (68 mph) on open stretches of express highways.

Drug Laws -- Sweden imposes severe penalties for the possession, use, purchase, sale, or manufacture of illegal drugs. (Illegal is defined much like in the U.S.) Penalties are often (but not always) based on quantity. Possession of a small amount of drugs, either hard or soft, can lead to a heavy fine and deportation. Possession of a large amount of drugs can entail imprisonment from 3 months to 15 years, depending on the circumstances and the presiding judge.

Drugstores -- Called apotek in Swedish, drugstores generally are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. In larger cities, one drugstore in every neighborhood stays open until 7pm. All drugstores post a list of the names and addresses of these stores (called nattapotek) in their windows.

Electricity -- In Sweden, the electricity is 220 volts AC (50 cycles). To operate North American hair dryers and other electrical appliances, you'll need an electrical transformer (sometimes erroneously called a converter) and plugs that fit the two-pin round continental electrical outlets that are standard in Sweden. Transformers can be bought at hardware stores. Before using any foreign-made appliance, always ask about it at your hotel desk.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in Stockholm. The United States embassy is at Daj Hammarskjölds Väg 31, S-115 89 Stockholm (tel. 08/783-53-00; http://stockholmusembassy.gov). The United Kingdom embassy is at Skarpoügatan 6-8, S-115 93 Stockholm (tel. 08/671-30-00; www.britishembassy.se). The embassy for Canada is at Tegelbacken 4, S-103 23 Stockholm (tel. 08/453-30-00; www.canadaemb.se). The embassy for Australia is at Sergels Torg 12, S-103 86 Stockholm (tel. 08/613-29-00; www.sweden.embassy.gov.au). New Zealand has a consulate on the fourth floor at Stureplan 4C, 114 35 Stockholm (tel. 08/633 116).

Emergencies -- Call tel. 90-000 from anywhere in Sweden if you need an ambulance, the police, or the fire department (brandlarm).

Holidays -- Sweden celebrates the following public holidays: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Epiphany (Jan 6), Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, Labor Day (May 1), Ascension Day (mid-May), Whitsunday and Whitmonday (late May), Midsummer Day (June 21), All Saints' Day (Nov 1), and Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec 24, 25, and 26, respectively). Inquire at a tourist bureau for the actual dates of the holidays that vary from year to year.

Internet Access -- It's hard nowadays to find a city that doesn't have a few cyber cafes. Although there's no definitive directory for cyber cafes -- these are independent businesses, after all -- two places to start looking are at www.cybercaptive.com and wwws.cybercafe.com.

Language -- The national language is Swedish, a Germanic tongue, and many regional dialects exist. Some minority groups speak Norwegian and Finnish. English is a required course of study in school and is commonly spoken, even in the hinterlands, especially among young people.

Legal Aid -- The American Services section of the U.S. Embassy will give you advice if you run into trouble abroad. They can advise you of your rights and will even provide a list of attorneys (for which you'll have to pay if services are used). But they cannot interfere on your behalf in the legal process of Sweden. For questions about American citizens who are arrested abroad, including ways of getting money to them, telephone the Citizens Emergency Center of the Office of Special Consulate Services in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/647-5225). Citizens of other nations should go to their Stockholm-based consulate for advice.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. Your credit card company or insurer also may require you to file a police report and provide a report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number outside the U.S. is tel. 410/581-3836. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 336/393-1111. MasterCard holders should call collect tel. 314/542-7111.

Mail -- Post offices in Sweden are usually open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to noon. Sending a postcard to North America costs 7.20SEK ($1.45/75p) by surface mail, 10.50SEK ($2.10/£1.05p) by airmail. Letters weighing not more than 20 grams cost the same. Mailboxes can easily be recognized -- they carry a yellow post horn on a blue background. You can buy stamps in most tobacco shops and stationers.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In big cities such as Stockholm and Gothenburg, English-language newspapers, including the latest editions of the International Herald Tribune, USA Today, and the London Times, are usually available. At kiosks or newsstands in major cities, you also can purchase the European editions of Time and Newsweek.

Police -- In an emergency, dial tel. 90-000 anywhere in the country.

Shoe Repair -- Shoe-repair shops rarely accommodate you while you wait. If all you need is a new heel, look for something called klackbar in the stores or shoe departments of department stores. They'll make repairs while you wait.

Smoking -- Smoking was banned in restaurants, cafes, bars, and nightclubs in 2005. Smoking rooms, however, are allowed in these institutions. The smoking rooms contain a few restrictions: No serving or consumption of food or beverages is allowed in the smoking rooms and it may not cover more than 25% of the institution's total area. Smoking is still allowed in hotel rooms and at airports that have designated smoking areas, including most major airports.

Taxes -- Sweden imposes a "value-added tax," called MOMS, on most goods and services. Visitors from North America can beat the tax, however, by shopping in one of the 15,000 stores with the yellow-and-blue tax-free shopping sign. To get a refund, your total purchase must cost a minimum of 200SEK ($40/£20). Tax refunds range from 12.5% to 17.5%, depending on the amount purchased. MOMS begins at 12% on food items but is 25% for most goods and services. The tax is part of the purchase price, but you can get a tax-refund voucher before you leave the store. When you leave Sweden, take the voucher to a tax-free Customs desk at the airport or train station you're leaving from. They will give you your MOMS refund (minus a small service charge) before you continue on to your next non-Swedish destination. Two requirements: You cannot use your purchase in Sweden, and it must be taken out of the country within 1 month after purchase. For more information, call Global Refunds at tel. 08/545-28-440 in Sweden (www.globalrefund.com).

Telephone -- Avoid placing long-distance calls from your hotel, where the charge may be doubled or tripled on your final bill.

Time -- Sweden is on central European time -- Greenwich mean time plus 1 hour, or Eastern Standard Time plus 6 hours. The clocks are advanced 1 hour in summer.

Tipping -- Hotels include a 15% service charge in your bill. Restaurants add 13% to 15% to your tab. Taxi drivers are entitled to 8% of the fare, and cloakroom attendants usually get 8SEK ($1.60/80p).

Toilets -- The word for toilet in Swedish is toalett, and public facilities are found in department stores, rail and air terminals, and subway (T-bana) stations. DAMER means women and HERRAR means men. Sometimes the sign is abbreviated to D or H, and often the toilet is marked WC. Most toilets are free, although a few have attendants to offer towels and soap. In an emergency, you can use the toilets in most hotels and restaurants, although, in principle, they're reserved for guests.

Water -- The water is safe to drink all over Sweden. However, don't drink water from lakes, rivers, or streams, regardless of how clean it appears.

Getting Around

By Plane

Within Sweden -- Stockholm is Sweden's major gateway for Scandinavia's best-known airline, SAS (Scandinavian Airlines System), while the airport at Gothenburg supplements Stockholm by funneling traffic into the Swedish heartland. In the mid-1990s, SAS acquired LIN Airlines (Linjeflyg); thus, it now has access to small and medium-size airports throughout Sweden, including such remote but scenic outposts as Kiruna in Swedish Lapland. Among the larger Swedish cities serviced by SAS are Malmö, Karlstad, and Kalmar.

During the summer, SAS offers a number of promotional "minifares," which enable one to travel round-trip between two destinations for just slightly more than the price of a conventional one-way ticket on the same route. Children under 12 travel free during the summer, and up to two children 12 to 17 can travel with a parent at significantly reduced rates. Airfares tend to be most reduced during July, with promotions almost as attractive during most of June and August. A minimum 3-night stopover at the destination is required for these minifares, and it must include a Friday or a Saturday night. When buying your tickets, always ask the airline or travel agency about special promotions and corresponding restrictions.

Those under 26 can take advantage of SAS's special standby fares, and seniors over 65 can apply for additional discounts, depending on the destination.

Within Scandinavia -- The best way to get around the whole of Scandinavia is to take advantage of the air passes that apply to the entire region or, if you're traveling extensively in Europe, to use the special European passes. The vast distances of Scandinavia encourage air travel between some of its most far-flung points. One of the most worthwhile promotions is SAS's Visit Scandinavia Airpass. This pass, available only to travelers who fly SAS across the Atlantic, includes up to eight coupons, each of which is valid for any SAS flight within or between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Each coupon costs $96, $128, or $160, a price that's especially appealing when you consider that an economy-class ticket between Copenhagen and Stockholm can cost as much as 1,250SEK ($250/£125) each way. The pass is especially valuable if you plan to travel to the far northern frontiers of Sweden; in that case, the savings over the price of a regular economy-class ticket may be substantial. For information on purchasing the pass, call SAS (tel. 800/221-2350).

By Train

The Swedish word for train is tåg, and the national system is the Statens Järnvägar, the Swedish State Railways.

Swedish trains follow tight schedules. Trains leave Malmö, Helsingborg, and Gothenburg for Stockholm every hour throughout the day, Monday through Friday. Trains depart every hour, or every other hour, to and from most big Swedish towns. On expresståg runs, seats must be reserved.

Children under 12 travel free when accompanied by an adult, and those up to age 18 are eligible for discounts.

By Bus

Rail lines cover only some of Sweden's vast distances. Where the train tracks end, buses usually serve as the link to remote villages. Buses are often equipped with toilets, adjustable seats, reading lights, and a telephone. Fares depend on the distance traveled. The one-way fare for the 525km (326-mile) trip from Stockholm to Gothenburg is 170SEK to 270SEK ($34-$53/£17-£27). Swebus (tel. 036/290-80-00; www.swebusexpress.se), the country's largest bus company, provides information at the bus or railway stations in most cities. For travelers who don't buy a special rail pass (such as Eurail or ScanRail), bus travel can sometimes be cheaper than traveling the same distances by rail. It's a lot less convenient, however -- except in the far north, where there isn't any alternative.

By Car Ferry

Considering that Sweden has some 100,000 lakes and one of the world's longest coastlines, ferries play a surprisingly small part in its transportation network.

After the car ferry crossings from northern Germany and Denmark, the most popular route is from the mainland to the island of Gotland, in the Baltic. Service is available from Oskarshamn and Nynäshamn (tel. 0771/22-33-00 for information). The famous "white boats" of the Waxholm Steamship Company (tel. 08/679-58-30; www.waxholmsbolaget.se) also serve many destinations in the Stockholm archipelago.

By Car

Sweden maintains an excellent network of roads and highways, particularly in the southern provinces and in the central lake district. Major highways in the far north are kept clear of snow by heavy equipment that's in place virtually year-round. If you rent a car at any bona fide rental agency, you'll be given the appropriate legal documents, including proof of adequate insurance (in the form of a "Green Card"), as specified by your car-rental agreement. Current driver's licenses from Canada, the United Kingdom, New Zealand, Australia, and the United States are acceptable in Sweden.

Rentals -- The major U.S.-based car-rental firms are represented throughout Sweden, both at airports and in urban centers. The companies' rates are aggressively competitive, although promotional sales will favor one company over the others from time to time. Prior to your departure from North America, it will be advantageous to shop around to find the lowest available rates. Membership in AAA or another auto club may enable you to get a moderate discount. Be aware that you may avoid a supplemental airport tax by picking up your car at a central location rather than at the airport.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com) offers a wide variety of cars and has offices in all major cities in Sweden. Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com) has offices located in all major cities, as well as major airports.

One auto supplier that might not automatically come to mind is Kemwel (tel. 800/678-0678; www.kemwel.com), a broker that accumulates into one database the availability of rental cars in markets across Europe, including Sweden. Originally established in 1908, and now operating in close conjunction with its sister company, Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), it offers convenient and prepaid access to thousands of cars from a variety of reputable car-rental outfits throughout Europe, sometimes at rates a bit more favorable than those you might have gotten if you had gone through the hassle of contacting those companies directly. Car rentals are prereserved and prepaid, in dollars, prior to your departure for Europe, thereby avoiding the confusion about unfavorable currency conversions and government tax add-ons that you might have discovered after your return home. You're given the option, at the time of your booking, whether you want to include collision damage and other forms of insurance. Most car rentals can be picked up at the airport or in the downtown offices of cities throughout Sweden, and there's usually no penalty for one-way rentals.

Money

Sweden's basic unit of currency is the krona (or SEK). Note that the Swedes spell the plural kronor with an o instead of an e as in the kroner of Denmark and Norway. One krona is divided into 100 oüre. Bank notes are issued in denominations of 20, 50, 100, 500, 1,000, and 10,000 SEK. Silver coins are issued in denominations of 50 oüre and 1SEK and 5SEK.

The Swedish Kronor -- Faced with some of the greatest fiscal instability since before World War II, U.S. and Swedish currency experts held widely varying opinions about the 2-year outlook for the interrelated values of the kronor, the dollar, the pound, and the euro. With that in mind, the following is a very rough guide for how the Swedish kronor might stack up against other international currencies.

For American readers: At the time of this writing, $1 U.S. = approximately 5SEK. (Stated differently, 1 krona = approximately 20 U.S. cents.) This was the rate of exchange used to calculate the simplified dollar values provided throughout this edition.

For British readers: At this writing, £1 U.K. = approximately 10SEK (or one krona = approximately 10 U.K. pence). This was the rate of exchange used to calculate the pound-designated values throughout this edition.

Regarding the euro: At the time of this writing, 1€ = approximately 10SEK, or, stated differently, 1SEK = approximately 10 eurocents.

These monetary relationships can and probably will change. For more on exact ratios between these and other currencies, check an up-to-date source at the time of your arrival in Sweden.

ATMs

PLUS, Cirrus, and other networks connect with automated teller machines throughout Scandinavia. Always determine the frequency limits for withdrawals and check to see if your PIN code must be reprogrammed for usage on your trip abroad. For Cirrus locations abroad, call tel. 800/424-7787 or visit www.mastercard.com. For PLUS usage abroad, check the PLUS site on the Web at www.visa.com or call tel. 800/843-7587. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit & Charge Cards

American Express, Diners Club, and Visa are widely recognized throughout Sweden. Discover cards are not accepted. If you see a Eurocard or Access sign, it means that the establishment accepts MasterCard. With an American Express, MasterCard, or Visa card, you also can withdraw currency from cash machines (ATMs) at various locations. Always check with your credit or charge card company about this before leaving home. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% transaction fee on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800; http://home.americanexpress.com -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322), from which AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful in Sweden, as they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks, in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Tips for Student Travelers

If you're planning to travel outside the U.S., you'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.istc.org), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.sta.com or www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 888/359-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Special-Interest Vacations

Adventure Tours

In the U.S. -- For overall adventure travel, including skiing, hiking, and biking, the best bet is Borton Overseas, 5412 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, MN 55419 (tel. 800/843-0602 or 612/822-4640; www.bortonoverseas.com), which offers sea kayaking and backpacking expeditions in Sweden. Tours should be arranged before you go.

In the U.K. -- The oldest travel agency in Britain, Cox & Kings, Gordon House 10, Greencoat Place, London SW1P 1PH (tel. 020/7873-5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk), was established in 1758; at that time, the company served as the paymasters and transport directors for the British armed forces in India. Today the company sends large numbers of travelers from Britain throughout the rest of the world and specializes in unusual -- if pricey -- holidays. Scandinavian tours include cruises through the region's spectacular fjords, bus and rail tours through sites of historic and aesthetic interest, and visits to the best-known handicraft centers, Viking burial sites, and historic churches. The company's staff focuses on tours of ecological and environmental interest.

Those who would like to cycle their way through the splendors of Scandinavia should join Britain's oldest and largest association of bicycle riders, the Cyclists' Touring Club, Cotterell House, 69 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HS (tel. 0844/736-84-51; www.ctc.org.uk). Founded in 1878, it charges £35 ($70) a year for membership, which includes information, maps, and a subscription to a newsletter packed with practical information and morale boosters, plus recommended cycling routes through virtually every country in Europe. The organization's information bank on scenic routes through Scandinavia is especially comprehensive. Membership can be arranged over the phone with an appropriate credit card (such as MasterCard, Visa, Access, or Barclaycard).

Learning Vacations

One good source of information about courses in Sweden is the American Institute for Foreign Study (AIFS), River Plaza, 9 W. Broad St., Stamford, CT 06902 (tel. 866/906-2437; www.aifs.org). This organization can set up transportation and arrange for summer courses, with room and board included.

The biggest organization dealing with higher education in Europe is the Institute of International Education (IIE), 809 United Nations Plaza, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/883-8200; www.iie.org). A few of its booklets are free, but for $47 (£24), plus $6 (£3) for postage, you can purchase the more definitive Short Term Study Abroad. Visitors to New York can use the resources of its Information Center, which is open to the public Tuesday through Thursday from 11am to 4pm. The institute is closed on major holidays.

One recommended clearinghouse for academic programs throughout the world is the National Registration Center for Study Abroad (NRCSA), 823 N. Second St., P.O. Box 1393, Milwaukee, WI 53201 (tel. 414/278-0631; www.nrcsa.com). The organization maintains language-study programs throughout Europe.

Home Stays

Friendship Force International (FFI), 34 Peachtree St., Suite 900, Atlanta, GA 30303 (tel. 404/522-9490; www.friendshipforce.org), is a nonprofit organization that fosters and encourages friendships among people worldwide. Dozens of branch offices throughout North America arrange en masse visits, usually once a year. Because of group bookings, the airfare to the host country usually is less than the cost of individual tickets. Each participant spends 2 weeks in the host country -- one as a guest in the home of a family, and another traveling throughout the country.

Servas, 1125 16th St., Ste. 201, Arcata, CA 95521 (tel. 707/825-1714; www.usservas.org), is an international, nonprofit, nongovernmental, interfaith network of travelers and hosts whose goal is to help promote world peace, goodwill, and understanding. (Its name means "to serve" in Esperanto.) Servas hosts offer travelers hospitality for 2 days. Travelers pay an $85 (£43) annual fee and a $25 (£13) list deposit after filling out an application and being approved by an interviewer. (Interviewers are located across the United States.) They then receive Servas directories listing the names and addresses of Servas hosts.

Home Exchanges -- One of the most exciting breakthroughs in modern tourism is the home exchange. Home exchanges cut costs: You don't pay hotel bills, and you also can save money by shopping in markets and eating in. Sometimes even the family car is included. Of course, you must be comfortable with the idea of having strangers in your home, and you must be content to spend your vacation in one place. Also, you may not get a home in the area you request.

Intervac, U.S. & International, 30 Corte San Fernando, Tiburon, CA 94920 (tel. 800/756-HOME [4663] or 415/435-3497; www.intervacus.com), is part of the largest worldwide exchange network. It publishes four catalogs a year, containing more than 10,000 homes in more than 50 countries. Members contact each other directly. The cost is $65 to $195 (£33-£98) plus postage, which includes the purchase of three of the company's catalogs (which will be mailed to you), plus the inclusion of your own listing in whichever one of the three catalogs you select.

Home Link International (tel. 800/638-3841; www.homelink.org) will send you five directories per year -- one of which contains your listing -- for $80 (£40).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

U.S., Canadian, U.K., Irish, Australian, and New Zealand citizens with a valid passport don't need a visa to enter Sweden if they don't expect to stay more than 90 days and don't expect to work there. If, after entering Sweden, you want to stay more than 90 days, you can apply for a permit for an extra 90 days, which as a rule is granted immediately. Go to the nearest police headquarters or to your home country's consulate. If your passport is lost or stolen, head to your consulate as soon as possible for a replacement.

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 12€ 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (tel. 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk).

For residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Sweden -- Foreign visitors can bring along most items for personal use duty-free, including fishing tackle, a pair of skis, two tennis rackets, a baby carriage, two hand-held cameras with 10 rolls of film, and 400 cigarettes or a quantity of cigars or pipe tobacco not exceeding 500 grams. Strict limits exist on importing alcoholic beverages. However, for alcohol bought tax-paid, limits are much more liberal than in other countries of the European Union.

What You Can Take Home -- Rules governing what you can bring back duty-free vary from country to country and are subject to change, but they're generally posted on the Web.

Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200 or less. You cannot bring fresh foodstuffs into the United States; tinned foods, however, are allowed. For more specific guidance, contact the Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov), and request the free pamphlet Know Before You Go. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, request the book I Declare from the Canada Border Services Agency, 1730 St. Laurent Blvd., Ottawa KIG 4KE (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). If you're a citizen of the United Kingdom, contact HM's Customs and Excise Office, National Advise Service, Dorset House, Stamford Street, London SE1 9PY (tel. 0845/010-9000; www.hmce.gov.uk). Australian citizens should contact the Australian Customs Service, GPO Box 8, Sydney NSW 2001 (tel. 1300/363-263 in Australia; www.customs.gov.au). New Zealanders should contact New Zealand Customs, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, NZ (tel. 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Single Travelers

Single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers on the trip, or you can find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge and save you the cost of single supplements. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

For more information, check out Eleanor Berman's latest edition of Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations, a guide with advice on traveling alone, whether you're on your own or on a group tour.

Regions in Brief

Götaland -- The southern part of Sweden takes its name from the ancient Goths. Some historians believe they settled in this region, which is similar in climate and architecture to parts of northern Europe, especially Germany. This is the most populated part of Sweden and includes eight provinces -- Östergötland, Småland (the "Kingdom of Crystal"), Västergoütland, Skåne, Dalsland, Bohuslän, Halland, and Blekinge -- plus the islands of Oüland and Gotland. The Göta Canal cuts through this district. Gothenburg is the most important port in the west, and Stockholm, the capital, is the chief port in the east. Aside from Stockholm, Skåne, the château district, is the most heavily visited area. Its dunes, moors, and pastures are often compared to the Danish countryside. Many seaside resorts line the west and east coasts.

Svealand -- The central region encompasses the folkloric province of Dalarna (Dalecarlia in English) and Värmland (immortalized in the novels of Selma Lagerloüf). These districts are the ones most frequented by visitors. Other provinces include Våstmanland, Uppland, Soüdermanland, and Nårke. Ancient Svealand often is called the cultural heart of Sweden. Some 20,000 islands lie along its eastern coast.

Norrland -- Northern Sweden makes up Norrland, which lies above the 61st parallel and includes about 50% of the landmass. It's inhabited by only about 15% of the population, including Lapps and Finns. Norrland consists of 24 provinces, of which Lapland is the most popular with tourists. It's a land of thick forests, fast-flowing (and cold) rivers, and towering mountain peaks. Lapland, the home of the Lapp reindeer herds, consists of tundra. Kiruna is one of Norrland's most important cities because of its iron-ore deposits.

Health & Insurance

Insurance

When traveling, any number of things could go wrong -- lost luggage, trip cancellation, a medical emergency -- so consider the following types of insurance.

Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or medical expenses. The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home. Even if your plan does cover overseas treatment, most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront, and send you a refund only after you've returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance company. As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation is a possible scenario. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com). For general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com).

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On international flights, airline-provided baggage coverage may be limited. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your valuables are covered by your homeowner's policy and get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package. Don't buy insurance at the airport, as it's usually overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, as many valuables (including books, money, and electronics) aren't covered by airline policies.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free.

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. For information, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com), AIG Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Staying Healthy

Sweden is viewed as a "safe" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get shots, most food is safe, and the water in cities and towns is potable. If you're concerned, order bottled water. It's easy to get a prescription filled in towns and cities, and nearly all hospitals in Sweden have English-speaking doctors and well-trained medical staffs.

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home -- Nearly all doctors in Sweden speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before you depart. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435 or 404/498-1515; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards by region or country. In Canada, contact Health Canada (tel. 613/957-2991; www.hc-sc.gc.ca).

Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries, plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland.

Staying Safe

Sweden has a relatively low crime rate, with rare but increasing instances of violent crime. Most crimes involve the theft of personal property from cars or residences. Pickpockets might be a problem in public areas. Beware of pickpockets and purse snatchers who often work in pairs or groups, with one distracting the victim while another grabs valuables. They often operate in or near major tourist attractions, such as Stockholm's Old Town, restaurants, amusement parks, museums, bars, buses, and subway trains. Hotel breakfast rooms and lobbies attract professional, well-dressed thieves who blend in with guests and target unsuspecting tourists and business travelers. Valuables should not be left unguarded in these places, or in parked vehicles.

The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate. The embassy/consulate staff can, for example, assist you by finding appropriate medical care, contacting family members or friends, and explaining how funds can be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you to understand the local criminal justice process and to find an attorney, if needed.

U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad, for ways to promote a trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402, or via the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov/travel/tips/safety/safety_1747.html.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. Many Swedish hotels offer discounts for seniors. Visitors over age 65 can also obtain 30% off first- and second-class train travel (except Fri and Sun) on the Swedish State Railways. Seniors get discounts on the ferries crossing from Denmark to Sweden, and on certain attractions and performances. However, you may have to belong to a seniors' organization to qualify for certain discounts. In Stockholm, there are discounts on transportation, concert, theater, and opera tickets.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and older (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world, including Austria. Most courses last 2 to 4 weeks and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond; Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler; and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50, by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

About two million people in Sweden have a disability; as a result, Sweden is especially conscious of their special needs. In general, trains, airlines, ferries, and department stores and malls are wheelchair accessible. Always call ahead to check on accessibility in hotels, restaurants, and sights you want to visit.

For information about wheelchair access, ferry and air travel, parking, and other matters, your best bet is to contact the Scandinavian Tourist Board. For information on youth hostels with special rooms for those with disabilities, contact Svenska Turistföreningen, P.O. Box 25, S-101 20 Stockholm (tel. 08/463-21-00; www.stfturist.se).

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for people with all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

AirAmbulanceCard.com (tel. 877/424-7633) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription.

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for elderly people and people with disabilities.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Stockholm is the gay capital of Scandinavia, and Sweden ranks along with Norway, Denmark, and The Netherlands as among the most tolerant and gay-friendly nations on earth. Even gay marriage is now legal in this enlightened, sophisticated country. The age of consent is almost uniformly the same as for heterosexuals, usually 15 or 16. However, outside Stockholm and Gothenburg, you'll find few gay bars.

Many gay and lesbian organizations in Stockholm welcome visitors from abroad. Foremost among these is the Federation for Gay and Lesbian Rights (RFSL), Sveavägen 57 (Box 350), S-10126 Stockholm (tel. 08/501-62-900; www.rfsl.se), open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Established in 1950, the group has headquarters on the upper floors of the biggest gay nightlife center in Stockholm. Meetings are held weekly -- a Wednesday 3pm meeting for gay men over 60 and a twice-monthly meeting of "Golden Ladies" (yes, they use the English expression) for lesbians over 50, plus a Monday-night youth session for those 18 to 21. They also operate a Gay Switchboard (tel. 08/501-62-970), staffed with volunteers; call daily from 8am to 11pm for information. The biggest event of the year is Gay Pride Week, usually held the first week in August. Call or write the RFSL for information.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members." In Canada, contact Travel Gay Canada (tel. 416/761-5151; www.travelgaycanada.com).

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for gay and lesbian travelers. Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/834-6500; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. It also offers trip-planning information for gay and lesbian travelers for more than 50 destinations along various themes, ranging from Sex & Travel to Vacations for Couples.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, both good, annual, English-language guidebooks focused on gay men; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Getting There

By Plane

Flying in winter -- Scandinavia's off season -- is cheapest; summer is the most expensive season. Spring and fall are in between. In any season, midweek fares (Mon-Thurs) are the lowest.

The Major Airlines -- Travelers from the U.S. East Coast usually choose SAS (tel. 800/221-2350 in the U.S.; www.flysas.com). Another major competitor is American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S.; www.aa.com), which offers daily flights to Stockholm from Chicago, and excellent connections through Chicago from American's vast North American network. Travelers from Seattle usually fly SAS to Copenhagen, then connect to one of the airline's frequent shuttle flights into Stockholm.

Other airlines fly to gateway European cities and then connect to other flights into Stockholm. British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297] in the U.S. and Canada; www.britishairways.com), for example, flies from more than 25 North American cities to London/Heathrow, and then connects with onward flights to Stockholm. Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525 in the U.S.; www.nwa.com) also flies at frequent intervals to London, from which ongoing flights to Stockholm are available on either SAS or British Airways. Finally, Icelandair (tel. 800/223-5500 in the U.S.; www.icelandair.com) has proved to be an excellent choice for travel to Stockholm, thanks to connections through its home port of Reykjavik.

People traveling from Britain can fly SAS (tel. 0870/6072-77-27 in London; www.flysas.com) from London's Heathrow to Stockholm on any of five daily nonstop flights. Flying time is about 2 1/2 hours each way. Likewise, SAS flies daily to Stockholm from Manchester, making a brief stop in Copenhagen en route. Flight time from Manchester to Stockholm is about 3 1/2 hours each way.

By Car from Continental Europe

From Germany -- You can drive to the northern German port of Travemuünde and catch the 7 1/2-hour ferry (www.directferries.co.uk) to the Swedish port of Trelleborg, a short drive south of Malmö. This route saves many hours by avoiding transit through Denmark. If you want to visit Denmark before Sweden, you can take the 3-hour car ferry from Travemuünde to Gedser in southern Denmark. From Gedser, the E64 and the E4 express highways head north to Copenhagen. After a visit here, you can take the Øresund Bridge from Copenhagen to Malmö.

From Norway -- From Oslo, E18 goes east through Karlstad all the way to Stockholm. This is a long but scenic drive.

By Train from Copenhagen or Oslo

Copenhagen is the main rail hub between the other Scandinavian countries and the rest of Europe. Seven daily trains run between Copenhagen and Stockholm, six between Copenhagen and Gothenburg. All connect with the Danish ferries that operate to Sweden via Helsingør or Frederikshavn.

At least three trains a day depart from Oslo to Stockholm (travel time: about 6 1/2 hr.). One of the trains leaves Oslo around 11pm. Three trains run from Oslo to Gothenburg daily (travel time: about 4 hr.).

Rail Passes for North American Travelers -- If you plan to travel extensively on the European and/or British railroads, it would be worthwhile for you to get a copy of the latest edition of the Thomas Cook European Timetable of Railroads. It's available online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.

With many of the same qualifications and restrictions as the Eurail Flexipass, the Eurail Youth Flexipass is sold only to travelers under age 25. It allows 10 days of travel within 2 months for $609 and 15 days of travel within 2 months for $803.

You can choose only second-class rail transport: 5 days out of 2 months costs $173 to $346, 8 days out of 2 months costs $219 to $437, 10 days out of 2 months costs $243 to $485, and 21 consecutive days of unlimited travel costs $232 to $463. Seniors get an 11% discount, and students receive a 30% discount. Check www.scanrail.com.

Rail Passes for British Travelers -- If you plan to do a lot of exploring, you might prefer one of the three rail passes designed for unlimited train travel within a designated region during a predetermined number of days. These passes are sold in Britain and several other European countries and can be used only by European residents.

An InterRail Global Pass (www.interrail.com) allows unlimited travel through Europe, except Albania and the republics of the former Soviet Union.

Adults purchasing an InterRail global Pass can travel first or second class. In first class, prices are $329 for 5 days in 10 days; $489 for 10 days in 22 days; $629 for 22 days continuous; or $809 for 1 month. In second class, the cost is $249 for 5 days in 10 days; $359 for 10 days in 22 days; $469 for 22 days continuous; and $599 for 1 month continuous.

An InterRail Global Youth Pass is also sold and is available only in second class. Youth are defined as those travelers ranging from age 12 up to and including 25 years of age. The cost is $159 for 5 days in 10 days, $239 for 10 days in 22 days, $309 for 22 days continuous, and $399 for 1 month continuous.

For information on buying individual rail tickets or any of the just-mentioned passes, contact National Rail Inquiries, Victoria Station, London (tel. 0845/748-4950; www.nationalrail.co.uk). Tickets and passes are also available at any of the larger railway stations as well as selected travel agencies throughout Britain and the rest of Europe.

By Ship & Ferry

From Denmark -- Ferries ply the waters for the brief run from Helsingør, a short drive north of Copenhagen, and Helsingborg, Sweden, just across the narrow channel that separates the countries. The 25-minute trip on a conventional ferry (not a catamaran) runs at 10- to 40-minute intervals, 24 hours a day. Operated by Scandlines (tel. 33/15-15-15 in Copenhagen; www.scandlines.dk), it's one of the most popular ferry routes in Europe. Round-trip passage costs 74€ ($118/£59) for a car with up to nine passengers; the ticket is valid for up to 12 months.

From England -- Two English ports, Harwich (year-round) and Newcastle-upon-Tyne (summer only), offer ferry service to Sweden. Harwich to Gothenburg takes 23 to 25 hours, Newcastle to Gothenburg 27 hours. Boats on both routes offer overnight accommodations and the option of transporting cars. Prices are lower for passengers who book in advance through the company's U.S. agent. For details, call Sea Europe Holidays, 6801 Lake Worth Rd., Ste. 107, Lake Worth, FL 33467 (tel. 800/533-3755 in the U.S.; www.seaeurope.com).

From Germany -- Stena Line Ferries (tel. 031/85-80-00; www.stenaline.com) sails daily from Kiel to Gothenburg. The trip takes 14 hours and costs £124 ($248) for a one-way passage.

Calendar of Events

The dates given here may in some cases be only approximations. Be sure to check with the tourist office before you make plans to attend a specific event. For information on Walpurgis night and midsummer celebrations, call the local tourist offices in the town where you plan to stay.

January

Kiruna Snow Festival, Kiruna. The biggest snow festival in Europe takes place in this far northern city under the northern lights, featuring dog-sledding and reindeer racing. Call the Kiruna Lapland Tourist Bureau for more information at tel. 0980/188-80 (www.snowfestival.se). January 27 to February 1.

Gothenburg Film Festival, Gothenburg. Entering its fourth decade, this festival attracts film buffs from all over Europe, showing 400 movies, often months before their official release. For more information, call the Gothenburg Film Festival at tel. 0303/339-30-00 (www.filmfestival.org). January 23 to February 2.

April

Walpurgis Night, nationwide. Celebrations with bonfires, songs, and speeches welcome the advent of spring. These are especially lively celebrations among university students at Uppsala, Lund, Stockholm, Gothenburg, and Umeå. Visit www.scandinavica.com/culture/tradition/walpurgis.htm for info. April 30.

May

Drottningholm Court Theater, Drottningholm. Some 30 opera and ballet performances, from baroque to early romantic, are presented in the unique 1766 Drottningholm Court Theater in Drottningholm, with original decorative paintings and stage mechanisms. Call tel. 08/660-82-25 (www.dtm.se) for tickets or tel. 08/587-140-00 for information. Late May to late September.

June

Midsummer, nationwide. Swedes celebrate Midsummer Eve all over the country. Maypole dances to the sound of the fiddle and accordion are the typical festive events of the day. Dalarna observes the most traditional celebrations. Check www.sweden.se. Mid-June.

July

Around Gotland Race, Sandhamn. The biggest and most exciting open-water Scandinavian sailing race starts and finishes at Sandhamn, in the Stockholm archipelago. About 450 boats, mainly from Nordic countries, take part. Call tel. 08/571-530-68, in Stockholm, for information (www.gotlandrunt.se). Two days in mid-July.

Rättviksdansen (International Festival of Folk Dance and Music), Rättvik. Every other year, for some 20 years, around 1,000 folk dancers and musicians from all over the world have gathered to participate in this folkloric tradition. Check http://goscandinavia.about.com. Last week in July.

Stockholm Jazz Festival, Stockholm. This is a big summer event occurring on the grounds and inside the Modern Art Museum on the island of Skeppsholmen. An outdoor band shell is erected, and members of the audience sit on the lawn to hear top jazz artists from Europe and America. Tickets cost 350SEK to 450SEK ($48-$62/£24-£31) per person. For more information, search www.stockholmjazz.com. Last week in July for 7 days.

Gay Pride, Tantolunden at Liljeholmsbron, Stockholm. The largest gay pride festival in the Nordic countries features workshops, concerts, theater, and attractions for 1 week. There's even a local parade where Vikings go gay and/or in drag. For more information, call Stockholm Pride at tel. 08/33-59-55 (www.stockholmpride.org). July 31 to August 6 (dates can vary).

August

Medieval Week, Gotland. Numerous events are held throughout the island of Gotland -- including medieval tours, concerts, plays, festivities, and shows. For more information, contact the Office of Medieval Week, Hästgatan 4, S-621 56 Visby (tel. 0498/29-10-70; www.gotland.net). Early August.

Minnesota Day, Utvandra Hus, Växjoü (Småland). Swedish-American relations are celebrated at the House of Emigrants with speeches, music, singing, and dancing; the climax is the election of the Swedish-American of the year. Call tel. 0470/201-20 for information. Second Sunday in August.

December

Nobel Day, Stockholm. The king, members of the royal family, and invited guests attend the Nobel Prize ceremony for literature, physics, chemistry, medicine, physiology, and economics. Attendance is by invitation only. The ceremony is held at the concert hall and followed by a banquet at City Hall. Visit http://nobelprize.org for info. December 10.

Lucia, the Festival of Lights, nationwide. To celebrate the shortest day and longest night of the year, young girls, called "Lucias," appear in restaurants, offices, schools, and factories, wearing floor-length white gowns and special headdresses, each holding a lighted candle. They are accompanied by "star boys" -- young men in white, with wizard hats covered with gold stars, each holding a wand with a large golden star at the top. One of the "Lucias" is eventually crowned queen. In olden days, Lucia was known as "Little Christmas." This celebration is observed nationwide. Actual planned events change from year to year and vary from community to community. The best place for tourists to observe this event is at the open-air museum at Skansen in Stockholm. December 13.

When to Go

The Climate -- Sweden's climate is hard to classify because temperatures, influenced by the Gulf Stream, vary considerably from the fields of Skåne to the Arctic Circle wilderness of Lapland.

The country as a whole has many sunny days in summer, but it's not super hot. July is the warmest month, with temperatures in both Stockholm and Gothenburg averaging around 64°F (18°C). February is the coldest month, when the temperature in Stockholm averages around 26°F (-3°C). Gothenburg is a few degrees warmer.

It's not always true that the farther north you go, the cooler it becomes. During summer, the northern parts of the country -- from Halsingland to northern Lapland -- may suddenly have the warmest weather and the bluest skies. Check the weather forecasts on television and in the newspapers. (Swedes claim these forecasts are 99% reliable.)

Summer -- When it comes to weather, the ideal time to visit Sweden is from June to August. At this time, all its cafes and most attractions, including open-air museums, are open, and thousands flock to the north of Sweden to enjoy the midnight sun. (However, except for special festivals and folkloric presentations, the major cultural venues in Sweden, including opera, dance, ballet, and theater, shut down in summer.) Summer also is the most expensive time to fly to Sweden, as this is peak season. To compensate, hotels sometimes grant summer discounts. (It pays to ask.)

Spring & Fall -- The months of spring and autumn, notably May through June and the month of September, are almost prettier than the Swedish summers. When spring comes to the Swedish countryside, wildflowers burst into bloom after a long dark winter.

Winter -- Scandinavia's off season is winter (about Nov 1-Mar 21). Many visitors, except those on business, prefer to avoid Sweden in winter. The cold weather sets in by October, and you'll need to keep bundled up heavily until long past April. However, other more adventurous tourists go to Sweden in spite of, or even because of, the winter. Students have returned to such university cities as Stockholm and Lund, and life seems more vibrant then. Cultural activities also abound. Skiers also go to Sweden in winter, but we don't recommend it. It is pitch dark in winter in the north of Sweden, and the slopes have to be artificially lit. You'd be better off soaking up the alpine sun in Germany, Switzerland, or Austria.

Of course, one of the most eerie and fascinating things you can experience in Sweden is to see the shimmering northern lights, and they can be viewed only in the winter.

The Midnight Sun -- In summer, the sun never fully sets in northern Sweden; even in the south, daylight can last until 11pm, and then the sun rises around 3am. The best vantage points and dates when you can see the thrilling spectacle of the midnight sun are as follows: Bjoürkliden, from May 26 to July 19; Abisko, from June 12 to July 4; Kiruna, from May 31 to July 14; and Gällivare, from June 2 to July 12. All these places can be reached by public transportation.

Remember that although the sun may be shining brightly at midnight, it's not as strong as at midday. Bring along a warm jacket or sweater.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The country code for Sweden is 46. To call Sweden from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 46, then the city code, then the regular phone number. Note: The Swedish phone numbers listed in this book are to be used within Sweden; when calling from abroad, omit the initial 0 in the city code.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 118118.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 90200.

Local and long-distance calls may be placed from all post offices and from most public telephone booths, about half of which operate with phone cards, the others with coins. Phone cards are sold at post offices and newsstands in denominations of 35SEK ($7/£3.50), 60SEK ($12/£6), and 100SEK ($20/£10). Rates are measured in units rather than minutes. The farther the distance, the more units are consumed. Telephone calls made through hotel switchboards can double, triple, or even quadruple the base charges at the post office, so be alert to this before you dial. In some instances, post offices can send faxes for you, and many hotels offer Internet access -- for free or for a small charge -- to their guests.

Swedish phone numbers are not standard. In some places, numbers have as few as four digits. In cities, one number may have five digits, whereas the phone next door might have nine. Swedes also often hyphenate their numbers differently. But since all the area codes are the same, these various configurations should have little effect on your phone usage once you get used to the fact that numbers vary from place to place.

Numbers beginning with 08 and followed by 00 are toll-free numbers. But be careful: Numbers that begin with 08 followed by 36 carry a 3.50SEK (70¢/35p) surcharge per minute. Also, many companies maintain a service line beginning with 0180. These lines might appear to be toll free but really aren't, costing 1.20SEK (24¢/12p) per minute. Other numbers that begin with 0190 carry a surcharge of 19SEK ($4/£1.90) per minute -- or even more. Don't be misled by calling an 800 number in the United States from Sweden. This is not a toll-free call but costs about the same as an overseas call.

Alternatively, you can dial the various telecommunication companies in the States for cheaper rates. From Sweden, the access number for AT&T is tel. 0800/888-0010, for MCI tel. 0800/888-8000. U.S.A. Direct can be used with all telephone cards and for collect calls. The number from Sweden is tel. 013/000-10. Canada Direct can be used with Bell Telephone Cards and for collect calls. This number from Sweden is tel. 013/000-14.

If you're calling from a public pay phone, you must deposit the basic local rate.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. In general, reception is good. But you'll need a Scriber Identity Module Card (SIM). This is a small chip that gives you a local phone number and plugs you into a regional network. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually 5SEK to 7.50SEK ($1-$1.50/50p-75p) in western Europe.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch U.S.A. (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than 500SEK ($100/£50) for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as .50SEK (10¢/5p) per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." Mac owners have their own networking technology: Apple AirPort. T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.com/hotspot or www.t-mobile.co.uk) serves up wireless connections at coffee shops nationwide. Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (www.wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities in Sweden, go to www.jiwire.com.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in Sweden now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You'll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com and click on "Individuals Buy Now." One solid provider is i2roam (tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes are found in all large Swedish cities, especially Stockholm and Gothenburg. But they do not tend to cluster in any particular neighborhoods because of competition. They are spread out, but can be found on almost every business street in large cities.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Tips for Families

Most Swedish hoteliers will let children under 13 stay in a room with their parents free, although some do not. Sometimes this requires a little negotiation at the reception desk. Babysitting services are also available through most hotel desks or by applying at the Tourist Information Office in the town where you're staying. Many hotels have children's game rooms and playgrounds.

Swedes like kids but don't offer a lot of special amenities for them. For example, a kiddies' menu in a restaurant is a rarity. You can, however, order a half-portion, and most waiters will oblige.

At attractions -- even if it isn't specifically posted -- inquire whether a kids' discount is available. European Community citizens under 18 are admitted free to all state-run museums.

Recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.