Beef noodle soup is widely considered Taipei's signature dish, and you won't find a better rendition of it anywhere than at this much beloved institution. The chunks of meat floating in the soup are brisket-like in their tenderness. The noodles are toothsome. And the broth is wonderfully flavorful on its own although customers are encouraged to doctor it to their own tastes. On each table is a bowl of pickled greens, a jug of white vinegar, and a pot of hot sauce (be careful with that one—it's fiery), all meant to be mixed in. Don’t come expecting frills: Old Wang’s is a sea of formica, and it has stools instead of chairs. Just know you’re likely going to have one of your best—and cheapest—meals in Taiwan, and that’s saying a lot.