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KUMU

KUMU (short for Kunstimuuseum, "art museum" in English) holds pride of place in the hearts of Estonians, both for its impressive modern architecture and its collection of Estonian art from the 18th century onward. The imposing geometric building is itself a masterwork, designed by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori to lie partially inside the slope of Lasnamäe hill, which shields it from the view of those visiting the  Kadriorg Palace and gardens (which were built in 1725, and retain their original baroque appearance). Since its opening in 2006, KUMU has functioned as the main branch of the five-part Art Museum of Estonia, hosting performances, film screenings, and seminars in its 250-seat auditorium as well as courses for all age groups in its educational center.


The museum's permanent collection is divided into pre- and post-WWII exhibitions, both of which offer unique insight into Estonian culture. The prewar exhibit features classic works that, though they may not be familiar to tourists, both record and embody essential periods in Estonia's history. Multiple paintings depict scenes from Kalevipoeg, the Estonian national epic, while others draw from popular folk tales like the legend of Kratt, a demon who would steal money and food for the people who summoned him. The postwar exhibit shows visitors an entirely different aspect of Estonia's national memory with art made during the Soviet period. Paintings done in the (government mandated) social realist style reflect the double consciousness of art created within a police state, reminding viewers of the strange and insidious effect government surveillance and censorship had on the people they watched.