Things To Do in Tangier

Tangier's small medina is a delight to walk around, and in the past few years has shed its sleazy image and taken on the vibrant, tourist-friendly atmosphere of other, better-known medinas in the country. Rue Siaghine and rue de la Marine are now lined with souvenir shops, and the lanes up to the kasbah are becoming well trodden by wandering travelers. The few sights and noteworthy shops are easy to find, but if this is your first visit to Morocco and you're feeling a little overwhelmed at the thought of having to negotiate the medina's alleys and lanes, contact Saïd Nacir (tel. 0671/045706; www.d-destination.com), a Tangier specialist. There's not much to see in the ville nouvelle, but as always there are a few good people-watching spots.

A Grave Society

The whitewashed Church of Saint Andrew, dedicated to the patron saint of Scotland but regularly flying the cross of Saint George, was built in 1894 and consecrated in 1905. The interior has a wonderful ceiling of carved cedar and an Arabic version of the Lord's Prayer around the chancel arch. A walk through the shaded gravestones bears witness to an isolated, aged community where burials were frequent and marriages were rare. After noting the sheer number of titled persons -- sirs, ladies, envoys, vice consuls, knights, commanders, and the like -- one can begin to understand the wealthy exclusive club that this particular expat community cocooned themselves in as late as the 1980s.

Saint Andrews is at the bottom of rue d'Angleterre. The caretaker, Mustapha, lives on-site and is usually around to open the church for visitors; otherwise, Sunday service is at 11am. The grounds are always open. British aristocratic society aside, some of the more colorful characters laid to rest here include:

• Caid Sir Harry Maclean (1848-1920). Descended from an ancient and noble Scottish family, Maclean served in H.M. armed forces before resigning his commission in 1876 to enter the service of the then sultan of Morocco, Moulay Hassan I.

Tangier's shop owners -- and their commission-only touts -- were notorious for persistent, aggressive sales tactics in the very recent past. On my last visit, however, things seemed to have settled down a bit, especially for independent travelers. With the steady stream of Spanish day-trippers currently visiting the city, everyone seems to be getting their fill. Shopping in Tangier is really only for those that aren't traveling any farther into Morocco or need some last-minute souvenirs to take back home. Nothing is made in Tangier, so all the various arts and crafts for sale are transported from elsewhere in the country. Obviously the cost of this necessity is added on to the final product. With that in mind, the few shops mentioned have something special about them and will hopefully satisfy those who need to shop here.

For a Western-style supermarket, there is an Acima in the ville nouvelle, on avenue Hariri, southwest of place El Oumame (formerly place des Nations). Here you'll find alcohol, a bakery, general foodstuffs, cookware, and toiletries. It's open daily from 9am to 10pm. Farther out on the road to Asilah and Rabat is the Marjane Hypermarket. This mini-mall also offers alcohol; all foodstuffs including fresh bread, fruit, and vegetables; as well as clothing, electrical appliances, and homewares. It's open daily from 9am to 9pm.

Caution: When shopping in Tangier, don't rely on being able to use your credit card. For most of your purchases, cash -- usually dirham but sometimes euros or dollars -- will be the only form of payment accepted.