Planning a trip to Tanzania

Money

In this guide, we list exact prices in the local currency only where it is actually quoted; the vast majority of safari destinations and upmarket resorts and hotels quote their prices in dollars (and, in some instances, euros or sterling). Visitors generally pay a higher rate for accommodations and game park entrance fees than East African residents; in such instances, you can always expect to be charged in one of the three major Western currencies. You will always have the option of paying in local currency, but the exchange rate will work against you. Rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic or www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The official currency in Tanzania is the Tanzanian shilling. The written abbreviation is either Tsh or /=. Notes are 200, 500, 1,000, 5,000, and 10,000, while coins are 50, 10, and 20, but these are virtually worthless and rarely used. Tanzanian shillings can be used to pay for most things, though U.S. dollars only are accepted by airlines, for national park entry fees, and for ferry tickets to Zanzibar and the other islands. The exchange rate has been pretty steady against the U.S. dollar in recent years.

Generally, you will have paid all lodging and transport costs in advance in order to secure your reservation at safari lodges, camps, and resorts; you'll also usually need to pay for any tours or operator costs in advance. That will take much of the burden off you when it comes to thinking about money. However, you will need to carry some Tanzanian shillings with you for tipping, shopping, restaurant and bar visits, and incidental expenses that might occur.

Plan your safari so you are left with as little local currency as possible before your departure home, since Tanzania does not allow you to export currency.

Currency Exchange

Currency and traveler's checks can be exchanged at the major banks, exchange bureaus, and some hotels. Airports in Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar have 24-hour exchange services. The easiest currencies to exchange are U.S. dollars, British pounds, and euros. Try to carry bills that are relatively new, as banks in Kenya have been known not to accept older U.S. bills. Do not change money on the black market; it is illegal and you risk going to a jail or being swindled. The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). Most banks in Tanzania have ATMs. They take four-digit PINs. However, remember that in remote regions, they are few and far between. Note: Overseas withdrawals may charge an additional fee by your home bank. Credit cards are a safe alternative to cash and are widely accepted in hotels, upscale souvenir stores, and restaurants, and can be used to pay for safaris. However, some small camps do not have credit card facilities and you will be asked to settle your outstanding account in cash, so it's always wise to make inquiries first. If you are carrying plastic, make sure one of your cards is a Visa or MasterCard, as these are most commonly accepted. Diners Club is unheard of, and American Express is accepted at only a few establishments. Upmarket restaurants in Arusha or Moshi have been known to refuse credit card payments under $50 (or even $80). Note that there will also be a 5% to 7.5% surcharge on the bill (and for any other credit card purchases, for that matter).

Everyone in Tanzania accepts dollars as payment rather than local currency (parks will, in fact, only accept U.S. dollars in cash or traveler's checks), so it's worth bringing a certain amount of dollars in cash and/or traveler's checks. Note that if you bring euros or sterling, you will have to convert them to shillings and then to dollars (a big hassle), and most street vendors and even some hotels take a very relaxed attitude to actual conversation rates and will simply knock off three zeros (Tsh 1,000 = $1).

What Things Cost

Tanzania is relatively affordable, which does not mean to imply that it is cheap. Safaris are big business, and maintaining a business (of any kind) in the wilderness is implicitly costly and those expenses will obviously filter down to you, the paying customer. Additionally, park entry fees add to the cost. Although everyone is going to have a similar game-viewing experience, a safari holiday could set you back anywhere between $150 and $2,000 per person per day, depending on the level of comfort you want. At the top end of the spectrum, you can expect luxury accommodations and service in sublime locations, while at the lower end, you'll be looking at a camping safari in basic camp sites, with a cook to prepare simple meals.

Away from the parks and reserves, upmarket hotels and coastal resorts cost about $250 to $300 per night, although a number of exclusive luxury spots on the coast aimed at honeymooners cost more. Budget travelers utilizing midrange hotels and using public transport can get by on $60 to $100 a day.

The cost of eating varies from a $3 portion of chicken and chips or fries from a local canteen to a $60 meal for two with wine in a good restaurant. Often on safaris and in the coastal resorts, meals are inclusive of the rates. A bottle of beer is about $2. Wine is expensive (as it's imported), but is readily available. Bottles of water and sodas are less than $1.

Regions in Brief

Dar es Salaam, meaning "haven for peace," was founded in 1862 by Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar and was later capital of the colonial administration. Evidence of German and British architecture can be seen around the city. It also serves as a springboard to Zanzibar, only a short hop by plane or a 90-minute ferry ride away.

Zanzibar refers to the archipelago made up of Zanzibar and Pemba, and several smaller islands, roughly 40km (25 miles) off the Tanzanian coast. For centuries it was an important hub in the Indian Ocean trade route, until the colonists arrived. The island of Zanzibar is by far the most popular tourist destination, and for good reason -- dazzling white beaches, an azure and warm Indian Ocean, and the wonderfully atmospheric Stone Town.

Tanzania's mainland coast has witnessed very little tourist development, though there are a couple of highlights for adventurous travelers. Kilwa Kivinje and Kilwa Kisiwani are ruined Swahili settlements dating back as far as the 12th century, where the Omanis built great forts, palaces, and mosques. Local guides give tours, and there's accommodation in nearby Kilwa Masoko. Mafia Island, remote with very few places to stay, is world renowned for its deep-sea fishing and scuba diving.

The region around Moshi is fairly attractive, thanks to Kilimanjaro, which looms above the town. On the fertile lower slopes of the mountain are the Arabica coffee plantations that Catholic missionaries introduced at the end of the 19th century. But the main reason to come to Moshi is to climb Kilimanjaro to the highest point in Africa, at Uhuru Peak.

Located in the foothills of Mount Meru, and the halfway point between Cairo and Cape Town, Arusha is a thriving city and is the access point for safaris to Tanzania's Northern Circuit parks. Here the vast rolling plains, trampled by herds of wildlife, are the Africa most visitors expect to see, and Tanzania's Northern Circuit parks won't disappoint. The Serengeti features the famous annual wildebeest migration, one of the greatest movements of animals on Earth. Equally impressive is the Ngorongoro Crater, a caldera created by a collapsed volcano that supports a staggering number of animals. Lake Manyara is known for its soda lake that supports thousands of flamingoes, while Tarangire has an abundance of elephants.

Lake Victoria, at 67,850 sq. km (26,462 sq. miles), is the second-largest freshwater lake in the world. The Tanzanian section of Lake Victoria is one of the least-visited parts of the country, and, admittedly, the featureless ports of Bukoba, Musoma, and Mwanza have few attractions. Most travelers head for the Kenyan and Ugandan sections of the lake.

Forming the western border of Tanzania, skinny Lake Tanganyika is divided among four countries: Tanzania, Burundi, Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), and Zambia. The main town on the lake is Kigoma, a simple place and a long way from anywhere else. The main reason to come to this isolated spot is to see chimpanzees in the Gombe Stream National Park and the Mahale Mountains National Park.

Accessed from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania's Southern Circuit parks offer an unrivalled bush wilderness experience. Selous, Katavi, and Ruaha are way off the usual tourist itinerary and are largely accessible only to those who can afford the few high-cost, low-impact camps.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

You can help reduce your personal impact and lower your carbon footprint by choosing accommodations that make at least some attempt to be eco-friendly. The large concrete game lodges and beach resorts were built many decades ago without much thought about their impact to the environment. But these days, new camps are being built in a way that they can be completely removed and won't leave a lasting trace on the land. A number of camps have attained some eco-rating, and there is a big trend (particularly by the smaller places) to implement environmentally sensitive measures. Seek out places that have aimed to avoid the use of felled timber -- many responsible designers use only wood from trees that have been knocked over by elephants, for example, and the keenest architects are careful to use local materials as much as possible and create accommodations that blend organically with the landscape in which they're located.

Many camps make use of solar power (for electricity and hot water), and some restrict their use of generators, helping reduce their use of fuel. Game-drive vehicles are a necessary evil in the wilderness, but you can at least try to encourage your guides and drivers to be responsible and considerate toward the environment; discourage off-road driving wherever possible.

Choose lodges and camps that employ local people (not just in menial positions, but in posts that matter, such as guiding and management), and look for evidence of involvement in community projects (you'll usually get a sense of how involved a property is from its website). Often there's evidence of sustainable, responsible tourism practices in small details, such as how a curio shop is stocked. Is it filled with mass-produced goods with widely distributed brands? Or can your host show you the workshop where local communities are actively employed in the craft trade?

You can also make a difference in small ways. Where your room or tent has a bathtub, first find out about the availability of water before going ahead and thoughtlessly squandering a scarce resource. If your lodge or camp still provides drinking water in plastic bottles, make strong suggestions that they change over to using reusable glass bottles or -- better still -- provide filtered water in glass jugs in your room.

Another issue to consider is that many locals are involved in the tourism industry, and some, like the Maasai and Samburu, do so while maintaining their traditional lifestyles, customs, and dress. When encountering these people, do not stop and stare, but interact and share. And it is the local people who act as guides that can best show you their country. On another note, never take a photograph of a person without first asking permission.

Staying Connected

Telephones

In the cities there are public coin and card phones on the street. Phone cards can be bought from post offices, street vendors, or small shops. You can make direct international calls from these. Phoning from hotels is expensive, as they add a hefty premium.

To call Tanzania from another country: Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia. Dial the country code 254 (Kenya) or 255 (Tanzania) and then the local number minus the first 0.

To make domestic calls within Tanzania: For all calls within the countries, drop the country code, but the full area code (including the first 0) must be dialed along with the number. All numbers begin with a three-digit area code.

To make international calls from Tanzania: First dial 000 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next dial the area code (drop the first 0 if there is one) and number. For international operator-assisted calls, dial 0196. Note that calls between Kenya and Tanzania and Uganda are charged at long-distance tariffs and not international. To call Kenya from Tanzania and Uganda, dial 005 followed by the area code and number. To call Uganda from Kenya, dial 006 followed by the area code and number, while calls to Tanzania require the prefix 007. Kenya and Tanzania have discontinued their "collect call" facilities. Toll-free numbers in the U.S. cannot be accessed from Kenya or Tanzania. Use of international long-distance calling cards is very limited.

Cellphones

Tanzania is awash with mobile phone operators; you'll spot advertisements for Safaricom, Zain, Celtel, and several others in even the most remote corners of the country. Surprisingly, there may be mobile services even in far-flung wilderness areas (where cellular connectivity is the only means of communicating with the outside world), but limited coverage in national parks that are relatively close to major towns or cities. Most of the local operators have partnerships with international service providers -- if you want to investigate these services, it's best to make inquiries through your home operator before departure. Using a mobile phone to call internationally is very expensive, so try to avoid doing so. You'll also pay dearly for international roaming through your service provider back home. The simplest way to have mobile phone access is to purchase a SIM card when you arrive and stock up on prepaid charge cards, which are available everywhere from formal phone shops to street vendors. If you are traveling to other African countries, opt for a Zain SIM card. They operate borderless roaming across 22 African countries, and call costs are local, not international. International calls from a Tanzania SIM card are about 50¢ a minute and local calls cost about 20¢ a minute.

Internet & E-Mail

Internet cafes in major tourist spots and in the towns and cities are easy to find. Hotels and lodges, too, are increasingly offering Internet access to their guests, though this is usually more expensive than a street-side cafe. Generally, you won't find Internet access in remote safari destinations. Although speed connections from landlines can be slow, satellite connections are continually increasing and the cost is lowering; expect to pay little more than $1 per hour. Wi-Fi is catching on in Tanzania (Arusha's International Conference Center), and the airports and some hotels and coffee shops (such as the Java chain) now have Wi-Fi.

Special-Interest Vacations

If you're looking to climb Kilimanjaro, the following are recommended:

Mobile Safaris

Mobile safaris can be like advanced camping expeditions, where you overnight in a different spot each night, either in smart tents (the best companies erect these for you and put on fabulous meals, too) or at a string of lodges or permanent camps. The level of luxury will be reflected in the price, and the type of transport (you can go by 4X4, camel, horse, foot, or even plane) will determine the manner in which you encounter the wilderness, its wildlife, and its people.

In Tanzania, &Beyond, Nomad, Lemala, and Asilia are the best choices (other top-end safari operators are likely to be booking through these four).

Volunteer & Working Trips

Some of the smaller, privately owned lodges and camps will take on volunteers who express a genuine interest in either conservation, community work, or -- in the case of working ranches -- farming. Please don't volunteer yourself if you're not fully committed to putting in substantial efforts, earning your keep (you'll generally receive full board and lodging), and engaging with your hosts, their guests, and their staff fully. The volunteers we've met have been young (often taking time out on a gap year) and exceptionally enthusiastic. You can expect to work hard, get up early each day, experience multiple facets of a new and fascinating way of life, learn Kiswahili (or a local tribal language), and develop a close working relationship with your hosts. You have a better chance of landing such a special opportunity if you have previously been to Africa or have visited the lodge or camp you're interested in. Potential volunteers should have good people skills and should be prepared to interact with paying guests. Start by contacting Richard Bonham of Ol Donyo Wuas (www.oldonyowuas.com), Colin and Rocky Francombe of Ol Malo (www.olmalo.com), or the management at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy (www.lewa.org) to begin your search for a volunteering opportunity.

You can also go the institutional route, starting out by investigating opportunities at the Kenya Voluntary & Community Development Project (www.kvcdp.org), a good grassroots organization that places volunteers in anything from planting trees, building schools, and promoting AIDS awareness to constructing roads, making bricks, and providing reproductive health education. A 2-week work camp costs $350, while a 2-month program will set you back $950, which covers airport transfers, orientation, participation in the program, and transport to the volunteer location. Accommodations and food are provided, but volunteers take turns preparing meals.

Eco-Resorts (www.eco-resorts.com) is worth investigating for their tailor-made safaris that combine interactive cultural experiences with opportunities to participate in volunteer activities and programs.

Tanzania Volunteer Experience (www.volunteertanzania.org) places volunteers in day-care centers and orphanages around Arusha as teachers or HIV/AIDS educators. A 2-week work camp costs $495, while a 2-month program will set you back $1,495, which covers airport transfers, orientation, participation in the program, and transport to the volunteer location. Accommodation and food are provided, but volunteers take turns to prepare meals.

Escorted Safaris

You'll get the most out of your safari with an experienced and knowledgeable guide who understands the bush and should be able to discuss the flora and fauna with you in detail. Often your guide will be available to join you for meals (indicate whether you'd like this) and regale you with tales of past adventures. Note that the safari companies recommended above all provide a guide/driver along with their vehicle, but often they are more drivers than guides. Companies that provide guides as well as drivers (&Beyond, for example) usually take the whole safari experience to a new level.

In Kenya, guides employed by legendary high-end safari company Ker & Downey (www.kerdowneysafaris.com) -- don't muddle them with the similarly named tour company that's based in Houston -- are renowned for their professionalism and know-how. Ker & Downey was established in 1946 and is considered the world's oldest safari company, making use of luxury lodges and camps, yet giving clients a real sense of adventure and an excellent insight into the bush. On similar footing is Royal African Safaris (www.royalafricansafaris.com), which organizes highly individualized bespoke tours, matching up clients with their ideal guide.

If you want the most informative Tanzanian safari ever -- a veritable crash course in fascinating animal facts -- arrange your trip with Lee Fuller. Lee acts as a private guide to select clients traveling in East Africa, but is also the trainer to all Singita's guides in East Africa; his knowledge, commitment, and passion for his subject are unbeatable. He's also excellent company. With limited time at his disposal, it's best to book Lee well in advance (LeeF@grumeti.singita.com). Lee tends to work in the north, including Kenya, in safari itineraries. If you're interested in combining a trip to the south and west, including gorilla tracking in Rwanda, Leslie Nevison, sole proprietor of Mama Tembo Tours (leslie@mamatembottours.com; www.mamatembotours.com), offers personal custom tours on Tanzania's less-trodden routes.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from date of entry to Kenya or Tanzania and with sufficient blank pages for any visa stamps. If your passport does not meet the requirements, you must renew your passport or obtain a new one prior to obtaining the visa.

Visas

Most visitors can purchase a visa from the airport or land border immigration desk upon entry. Alternatively, you can get a visa from an embassy or high commission overseas, but it's easier to get one on arrival. Visas are valid for 3 months from the time of entry and cost $50 (U.S. and Irish citizens pay $100). If you are only transiting through Kenya, say, from a safari in Tanzania or Uganda to the airport in Nairobi, a transit visa valid for 7 days is $20. Visas are paid for in cash (in dollars, British pounds, or euros). In theory, there is a similar transit visa available in Tanzania, though this is not always enforced.

Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda have an agreement that you can cross into each and back again without purchasing a new visa, as long as each visa is within its 3-month validity. For example, you can go from Kenya to Uganda, to see the mountain gorillas, and return to Kenya on the visa you acquired on first entry to the country.

Up-to-date requirements can be found at Kenya's Ministry of Home Affairs website (www.homeaffairs.go.ke) and Tanzania's Ministry of Home Affairs website (www.moha.go.tz).

Customs

What You Can Bring into Tanzania -- The import and export of firearms, narcotics, and pornography is illegal. The government has the right to charge duties on items brought in intended for resale, but personal items such as jewelry, laptops, and cameras can be brought in duty-free. There are no restrictions on the import or export of foreign currency, but as the Tanzanian shilling (Tsh) is not a hard currency, it cannot be taken in and out of the country. Every visitor aged 18 and older may bring 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or no more than 250g of tobacco, and 1 liter of liquor (or 2L of wine) into Tanzania, duty-free.

What You Can Take Home from Tanzania -- The export of gold, diamonds, or game trophies not obtained from the authorized government departments is prohibited. It is illegal to export elephant ivory, wildlife skins, and sea turtle products.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 0800/428-786 or 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Consult your physician ahead of any trip to Africa. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov/travel) has details of required and recommended immunizations for international travelers as compiled by the World Health Organization. The CDC also regularly updates its website with news of outbreaks that affect specific areas and destinations; it's worth checking out their travel advisory and following up by consulting your doctor. You will certainly need to take some prophylaxis against malaria, and there are other immunizations that are highly recommended.

Tanzania is endemic for contracting yellow fever, so it is essential you have a yellow fever vaccination; you may be denied entry without one. We also highly recommend immunizing yourself against typhoid, hepatitis A and B, meningitis, rabies, and -- if you're going to be in East Africa for an extended period -- cholera. Booster shots, although not mandatory, are suggested for tetanus-diphtheria, measles-mumps-rubella, polio, and varicella.

Certain immunizations must be administered over a period of time, while others cannot be given at the same time. Consult your doctor at least 4 to 6 weeks prior to your trip, especially since some vaccines require time to take effect. Vaccinations should be recorded and stamped in a yellow international immunization card, which you will be given when your first shots are administered; take this with you whenever you go for booster shots or new immunizations.

If you use any prescription drugs (and, for that matter, contact lenses), be sure to take adequate supplies with you. Also take the original prescription along, as brand names of drugs may be different in drugstores. When it comes to medical needs, do not leave anything to chance, and if you have any specific conditions, consult your physician well ahead of your scheduled departure.

Note: Anyone who has recently undergone surgery (up to 18 months prior to traveling in Africa) should consult their doctor or surgeon to discuss the need for antibacterial drugs to stave off any risk of infection.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Homosexuality is illegal in Tanzania and carries a hefty jail sentence. Generally, being gay is still largely a taboo subject, lesbianism doubly so, and many locals take the attitude that it's a foreign, un-African practice. Nevertheless, because of this, most locals in the tourism industry do accept that non-African visitors may be gay, so you'll receive no discrimination. However, complete discretion is advised -- even public displays of affection between a heterosexual couple are frowned upon on the Muslim coast and Zanzibar. Although in saying that, platonic affection between African males, such as holding hands or, by Muslims, kissing on the cheek, is common and a sign of friendship and respect. Behind the Mask (www.mask.org.za) is an organization that reports on gay and lesbian issues throughout Africa.

Tips for Single Travelers

The main disadvantage to traveling alone while on safari is cost. The per-person rate of a room or tent will invariably work out much more expensive if there's only one occupant. The same principle applies to the cost of charter flights and car hire; if you're looking to spread costs a little, it's a good idea to partner up for your trip. Ranger Safaris (www.rangersafaris.com), the biggest operator in Tanzania, deals with big catalog operators but also offers a large selection of scheduled small-group "seat in vehicle" itineraries, making this a good value option for singles.

Of course, if you're planning a totally budget-oriented adventure where you'll be jumping on buses, making use of relatively inexpensive tour operators, and shacking up in cheap local places, you can have a perfectly good time on your own, with great flexibility to do what you want, when you want. There is some price to pay for such independence, though, such as never having someone to watch your bags at airports and the like, or keep an eye on your drink if you need to visit the washroom. Hopefully, if you're planning to explore on your own, you'll be sufficiently outgoing and gregarious to make friends and acquaintances along the way. The other alternative is to join an overland truck safari, which can be ideal for single travelers. For details of routes through East Africa, visit www.overlandafrica.com.

Tips for Women Travelers

Tanzania is not a problematic country for women (even those traveling alone) to visit, although the normal precautions should be taken. You shouldn't go anywhere alone at night, and be wary of unsolicited male interest, especially in the coastal resorts, where foreign women looking for sexual adventure have encouraged pestering by local men. This can be dealt with if you are assertive. Women travelers should dress modestly, as Tanzania has a wide range of cultural differences. The islands and the coast are predominantly Muslim, so a modest dress code will help you blend in. Wear skirts or pants that reach below the knee and tops that cover shoulders and upper arms. Avoid see-through or overly tight clothing. In beach areas, where there are a lot of tourists, it's acceptable to wear beachwear, but going topless is considered taboo. Lamu and Zanzibar are particularly conservative, so it's important to heed this dress advice so as not to insult the local people. Most of the women on these islands and much of the Muslim coast wear bui-buis, head-to-toe black Islamic dress. Also be aware that public displays of affection are severely frowned upon in Zanzibar, and previously visitors have been arrested for kissing in public. Local women themselves are highly respected, especially older women, so a sharp word from them will help diffuse any number of situations. On public transport, try to get a seat next to other local women. You may be rewarded with good conversation, too.

Getting Around

If you are visiting a number of parks and reserves in Tanzania, you can either drive or fly between them. Roads in most of the wilderness areas are in poor condition and unmarked, and self-driving is not recommended. Operators will supply you with a driver who doubles as an informal guide; alternatively, you can arrange to fly to your destination and utilize a car and driver supplied by the lodgings. Elsewhere in Tanzania, towns and cities are linked by a steady stream of buses and dala-dalas (minibuses), and in the cities, there is public transport in the way of buses, dala-dalas, taxis, and, in some places, bicycles or tuk-tuks.

By Plane

If you can afford it, getting around Tanzania by plane is the quickest and most comfortable option. There are a few domestic airlines that link the most popular safari destinations and provide services to the coast. Some of the more upmarket safari lodges have their own airstrips and use small planes operated by private air charter companies to ferry their guests in, which is a good alternative to long drives on dusty roads. The national airline, Air Tanzania (www.airtanzania.com), was grounded in 2008 because of issues over maintenance. Since then, they have resumed some domestic flights between Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro, and Mwanza. However, the airline desperately needs new planes, timetables frequently change, and there can be long delays. In most cases, the private airlines offer much more reliable service, with aircrafts in good shape and excellent pilots. Precision Air (tel. 022/286-0701; www.precisionairtz.com) links the major cities and towns and flies between Dar es Salaam, Bukoba, Mwanza, Kigoma, Tabora, Lindi, Mtwara, Arusha, Kilimanjaro, Zanzibar, and Seronera and Grumeti in the Serengeti National Park. They also fly to Nairobi. Coastal Aviation (tel. 075/262-7825; www.coastal.cc) links the upmarket lodges in the game parks and reserves, as well as the islands, flying between Dar es Salaam, Mwanza, Arusha, Selous, Ruaha, Mikumi, Lake Manyara, and to several airstrips in the Serengeti, as well as to Zanzibar, Pemba, and Mafia islands. Air Excel (tel. 027/254-8429; www.airexcelonline.com) links the parks with the coast and flies between Dar es Salaam, Arusha, several airstrips in the Serengeti, Lake Manyara, Kilimanjaro, and Zanzibar. Zan Air (tel. 024/223-3670; www.zanair.com) links Arusha and Dar es Salaam with Selous, Zanzibar, Pemba, Mafia, and Mombasa in Kenya. Regional Air (tel. 027/250-2541; www.regionaltanzania.com) links eight airstrips in the Northern Circuit with Arusha, Dar es Salaam, and Zanzibar.

If you're headed for less-visited parks or simply prefer to set your own schedule, then air charter is the best option. Companies at Dar es Salaam Airport include Flightlink (tel. 022/2137885; www.flightlinkaircharters.com) Zantas Air (tel. 022/2137181; www.zantasair.com); and at Kilimanjaro International Airport, Kilimanjaro Air Safaris (tel. 027/275-0523; www.kiliair.com).

On some flights using small planes, luggage is restricted to 15kg (33 lbs.) per person, but you can leave excess luggage at hotels in Arusha or Dar es Salaam, for example, for a small fee (if you are returning to these destinations). Don't schedule any domestic flights too close to your international departure from Tanzania, in the event internal flights are delayed or canceled.

By Car

Driving in Tanzania can be dangerous because everyone does pretty much as they please, and traffic in Dar es Salaam is especially chaotic. The roads are not always well maintained and frequent potholes are a problem, so keep your speed down and avoid driving at night because of the danger of domestic and wild animals on the road. Many of the roads in rural areas and in the parks and reserves are not tarred, so a four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential, particularly in the wet seasons, when these roads often become impassable. If you're confident that you can hold your own on Tanzanian roads, you can either book a car at your country of origin from one of the large agencies or contact them once you arrive. Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), and Hertz (www.hertz.com) have several offices in Dar es Salaam and Arusha. A popular way for independent travelers to reach the north or west coasts of Zanzibar from Stone Town is to hire a jeep or motorbike from a travel agent in Stone Town.

To hire a car, you must be over 23, and while you don't necessarily need an international driver's license, your license must be in English. Driving is on the left, though on badly potholed roads it is customary to drive all over the road to avoid them. Parking in the towns usually involves paying a parking attendant on the street a small fee, and they will display a ticket on your windshield. Dar es Salaam also has some multistory car parks.

By Train

There are two railways that cross Tanzania and offer three to four services per week. Clean bedding is provided for cars with sleeping berths, and there are dining cars. However, the rolling stock is very old and dirty, and the trains get very crowded with not only people, but sacks of vegetables and livestock. Thefts are common (stewards even hand you a piece of wood to jam your window so it can't be opened from outside during night stops), and it takes an inordinate amount of time to get around. Traveling by bus is generally safer, quicker, and cheaper. If you insist on traveling by rail, you should opt for first class, always lock your door, and never leave your possessions unguarded.

Tazara (Tanzania-Zambia Railway Authority; tel. 022/226-2191) runs from Dar es Salaam through the south of the country and on to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia. The average journey from Dar es Salaam to Mbeya in the southwest of Tanzania is 23 hours. However, we have heard recently that this company is close to financial collapse and not all the trains have been running, so inquire locally at Dar es Salaam's railway station. Tanzania Railway Corporation's Central Line (tel. 022/211-7833; www.trctz.com) runs from Dar es Salaam across the middle of the country to Tabora, where it splits into two lines that end in Kigoma on Lake Tanganyika and Mwanza on Lake Victoria. It takes 36 hours to get from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma.

By Bus

If you're on a budget, buses are the best and cheapest way to travel. Large buses and dala-dala crisscross the country and link the major towns, and longer routes link Dar es Salaam with Nairobi and Mombasa in Kenya. Some of the vehicles are quite old, can be driven rather recklessly, and can be overcrowded. The most reasonably efficient and comfortable buses are operated by Scandinavian Express (www.scandinaviagroup.com). They have modern ticket offices in each of the towns and cities, you can choose your seat onscreen, buses are speed governed, most have air-conditioning, and complimentary drinks and biscuits/cookies are offered onboard. The only other reputable bus company is Royal Coach (tel. 022/212-4073 or 075/488-5778), which runs a dedicated route between Dar es Salaam and Arusha. Always exercise caution around the bus stations, as petty theft can be a problem.

By Taxi, Tuk-Tuk & Boda-Boda

Regular taxis are found easily on the street and outside hotels. Tuk-tuks can be used over short distances in the beach resorts along the coast. Boda-bodas are a cheap and fun way to travel over short distances, but you need to hang on tightly. With all of these, prices should be negotiated before setting off.

Tips on Accommodations

Accommodations in Tanzania range from high-end luxury safari lodges or tented camps and beach resorts with a full range of facilities and entertainment to flea-ridden $10-a-night local town hotels with simple beds and a shared bathroom. Camping is also popular in the parks and brings down the price of an organized safari considerably. Tanzania does operate a star grading system for accommodations, although it is below par to what you would expect from the U.S. or Europe. Generally, you can assume four- and five-star hotels are of a good standard. There are also a clutch of world-class, luxurious, and intimate settings in the parks or on the coast.

Hotels -- If you stick to three stars or higher, you can expect clean rooms, a private bathroom with a shower, a swimming pool, and one or more decent restaurants. At the lower end of the scale, the towns offer basic lodgings in one- or two-star hotels that are predominantly used by locals. Budget travelers should look at a room to ensure that the sheets are clean and the plumbing works before committing.

Zanzibar has places on the beach where vacationers rarely venture out of the confines of their resort, but also has some wonderful hotels in Stone Town housed in historic Arabian-style buildings that feature unique Zanzibar-style four-poster beds, Persian rugs, and antique furniture, even at the cheaper end of the scale.

Safari Accommodations -- For all budgets, entrance fees to the parks are the same, and you can expect to have the same sort of game-viewing experience. But what you pay for an organized safari depends on the standard of accommodations and whether you choose to get to the parks by road or air. Generally, accommodations in the parks fall into three categories: top-end luxury tented camps, midrange large lodges, and campsites. Intimate tented camps usually comprise a dozen or so spacious tents under a thatched or wooden roof with their own terrace and sometimes extras such as a private plunge pool or outside shower. Cuisine and service are excellent, and game drives and other activities are all-inclusive. The benefit of these is that you are sleeping in the wild with animals close by, and you'll have the personal service of knowledgeable guides. The large safari lodges in the parks also offer good service and are mostly in scenic locations, but with a large number of rooms in either hotel-like blocks or individual chalets, they can feel a little impersonal. Nevertheless, they offer reasonable value and have a full range of facilities such as restaurants, bars, and swimming pools. Camping safaris offer the best value but are the least comfortable, with cold showers, primitive toilets, and hard ground to sleep on. But the advantage is sleeping in unfenced campsites where you may hear the roar of a lion at night. Camping safaris usually have a cook who prepares meals over an open fire.

Generally, you get what you pay for, and if you avoid peak seasons, you'll score fantastic deals.

When it comes to safari destinations, we favor Bush and Beyond (www.bush-and-beyond.com and www.bush-homes.co.ke), which has an assortment of excellent lodges and camps on its books (the majority of which are in the game-rich Masai Mara and on private concessions on the Laikipia Plateau), and Cheli & Peacock (www.chelipeacock.com), which also has a substantial portfolio of similarly lovely properties. Both companies will arrange all accommodations, ground and air transport, and pick-ups and transfers, and will tailor your experience according to your preferences. Of the two companies, Bush and Beyond offers greater flexibility and is better equipped to customizing your holiday. They work closely with U.S.-based travel operator Uncharted Outposts (www.unchartedoutposts.com), which specializes in top-drawer accommodations that are intimate, sustainable, often family- or community-owned, and as untouristy as possible. U.K. travel agency Carrier (www.carrier.co.uk) also works with a highly commendable selection of camps and lodges, with an emphasis on exclusivity and hassle-free comfort.

The main "luxury" hotel chain in East Africa is Serena (www.serenahotels.com), which has a mix of upmarket city hotels, fine beach resorts, and safari lodges that range from comfortable-but-unattractive to decent-yet-affordable. The biggest problem with their safari properties, however, is their size. A high number of bedrooms means that they are able to keep rates down, but that also takes away from the level of exclusivity, and you'll see plenty of package groups taking up large tables. Serena's service standards are, however, fairly high, and the accommodation standards are the best in the chain resort category, thereby offering the best value despite the slightly higher price tag (in comparison to, say, Sopa). Serena's main competitor, although often with properties in areas not challenged by Serena, is Sarova (www.sarovahotels.com), although we don't recommend them unless there really is nowhere else to stay. Even less to our taste is Sopa (www.sopalodges.com), a frankly outdated chain that draws chiefly groups arranged by operators attracted to the hefty commissions Sopa offers them. If you're exploring these two options because of a tight budget, try Wildlife Lodges (www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com), which offers similar or lower rates but often in better locations.

Still owned by the family of one of Kenya's former presidents, Heritage Hotels (www.heritage-eastafrica.com) runs eight Kenyan safari lodges and camps (the smaller ones are good, the large properties much less so) under three marginally distinct brands, namely Explorer, Intrepids, and Voyager -- of the three, the Explorer properties tend to offer greater exclusivity. One advantage of the Heritage properties is that some offer kids clubs both on safari and at the beach, so they appeal to families. Heritage is represented in the U.S. by Sarah Fazendin's The Fazendin Portfolio tel. 303/993-7906; www.FazendinPortfolio.com), worth contacting to find out about any special deals on Heritage packages.

Tented camps, particularly the so-called mobile camps (those that move to two to three locations depending on animals' movement), are ideal for those who want to be in the midst of the Migration or simply want to experience the thrilling experience of sleeping in the wild with animals close by while enjoying luxuries such as quality linen and en suite toilets. For both of these options, you'll have the personal service of knowledgeable guides. Tanzania's Nomad (www.nomad-tanzania.com) is highly recommended in this category.

Kenya also has a growing number of boutique "chains" comprising personally managed smaller properties. Porini (www.porini.com) comprises four different safari camps and focuses on providing eco-friendly lodgings. Offbeat Safaris (www.offbeatsafaris.com) grew out of a slick horseback safari operation and now has four different lodging options in prime game-viewing areas. Governors (www.governorscamp.com) is a family-run operation based in the Masai Mara; they have a growing number of camps, lodges, and resorts, including their new Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge in Rwanda, which is set to become a prime base for gorilla trekking safaris. Governors also has the best hot-air ballooning operation in Kenya and has its own air service. One more operation to consider if you're seeing Southern Kenya and the coast is Southern Cross Safaris (www.southerncrosssafaris.com), which handles bookings for a small number of camps in Tsavo and represents many resorts on the beach.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Dar es Salaam, 022; Bagamoyo, Mafia Island, and south coast, 023; Zanzibar and Pemba, 024; Moshi, Arusha, and Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area, 027; Serengeti National Park and Lake Victoria region, 028; central and southwestern Tanzania and Lake Tanganyika, 026. If you're calling a cellphone number from abroad, you don't need to add the area code before the cellphone code, but you do need to drop the first 0.

Drinking Laws -- On mainland Tanzania, alcohol is sold in bars, hotels, restaurants, and supermarkets with no restrictions. The exception is the coast and Zanzibar, where, away from the large resorts, small Muslim-owned restaurants generally do not offer liquor.

Electricity -- Outlets in Tanzania supply 230 volts of electric current. New sockets take square three-pin plugs (same as the U.K.), but you may find large round three-pin and small two-pin sockets in older hotels. Bring a multi-adaptor/converter with power surge protection, as Tanzania can experience power surges. Consult www.walkabouttravelgear.com for information on converters and adapters.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in Dar es Salaam, the capital.

U.S. Embassy: 686 Old Bagamoyo Rd., Msasani (tel. 022/266-8001; http://tanzania.usembassy.gov).

U.K. Embassy: Umoja House, Garden Avenue (tel. 022/211-0101; http://ukintanzania.fco.gov.uk).

High Commission of Canada: 38 Mirambo St. (tel. 022/216-330; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/tanzania-tanzanie).

Australia Embassy: Australia does not have an embassy or consulate in Tanzania; the Canadian embassy provides consular assistance to Australians.

Emergencies -- For all emergencies (ambulance, fire, and police), dial 112.

Holidays -- Zanzibar and the Tanzanian coast are predominantly Muslim. Tanzania shares some public holidays with Kenya. Exceptions are Nyerere Day (Jan 1), Zanzibar Revolution Day (Jan 12; Zanzibar only), Union Day (Apr 26), Industrial Day (July 7), and Farmer's Day (Oct 14).

Hospitals -- In Dar es Salaam: IST Clinic, Ruvu Street, International School of Tanganyika Campus, Masaki (tel. 022/260-1307 and 022/260-1308, or, in emergency, 0744/783-393; www.istclinic.com); and Nordic Clinic, Valhalla House 30 (tel. 022/260-1650 and 022/260-0274, or mobile 0741/325-569; www.nordic.or.tz).

In Arusha: Selian Hospital Clinic (tel. 027/250-3726).

Legal Aid -- If you get robbed, lose your passport, or get into any kind of trouble, contact the police. The Tanzanian police are responsible for investigating and prosecuting local crimes, and to make an insurance claim, you will need to get a police report for theft. For anything more serious, embassy officials can provide some basic assistance, such as recommending an English-speaking attorney.

Mail -- A postcard or letter costs $3 to Europe and $3.50 to North America or Australia. International surface parcels cost about $6 per kilogram, and parcels by airmail are about $12 per kilogram; note that this is considerably cheaper than in Kenya.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Tanzania has two daily English-language newspapers: Daily News (www.dailynews.co.tz) and Guardian (www.ippmedia.com). The East African (www.theeastafrican.co.ke) is a weekly newspaper covering news throughout Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. Kenya's daily, The Nation, is also available in the cities. Newspapers can be bought on any street corner or from wandering newspaper vendors in the cities and towns.

Police -- Dial 999.

Smoking -- Smoking in public and in the workplace is banned in Tanzania, although hotels provide smoking rooms, and most restaurants and bars permit smoking in designated areas.

Taxes -- Value-added tax (VAT) of 20% is included in all prices of goods and services. However, if organizing a safari or Kilimanjaro climb locally, make sure the tour operator includes the VAT when making a quote.

Time -- Tanzania is 3 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time.

Tipping -- Wages in Tanzania are generally low, so tipping for good service will be much appreciated. In general, you should leave a 10% to 15% tip at restaurants and bars, even if the service charge is already included. If you're staying at an upmarket hotel or lodge, tip a few dollars to the luggage porter and chambermaid.

Toilets -- Public bathrooms are rarely available and can be quite smelly and dirty; some are long drops that you have to squat over, with no toilet paper on hand. If you need a toilet, try to find a nearby restaurant or hotel.

Visas -- Visas are most easily obtained on arrival in Tanzania.

Visitor Information -- The Tanzania Tourist Board will send you some brochures on request, so it's worth contacting them in advance, and their website, www.tanzaniatouristboard.com, is a good source of general information. Some of the tour operator websites, however, are as good, if not better. There are drop-in tourist offices in Dar es Salaam, Arusha, and Zanzibar where you'll be able to talk to the staff and pick up a few brochures and fliers. For information about the national parks, including accommodations and tariffs, visit the website for Tanzania National Parks (www.tanzaniaparks.com). Other useful resources on the Internet include www.zanzibartourism.net, which is the official website of the Commission for Tourism and is published in a number of languages, and www.absolutetanzania.com, which has not only tourist information, but also interesting articles about conservation, the government, and the economy.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Tanzania is not the most friendly travel destination for those with disabilities. Few places are wheelchair accessible, and sidewalks and roads are in such dilapidated condition that even those without disabilities can find them challenging. Nevertheless, safaris should not pose too much of a problem, given that much of the time is spent in a vehicle, and you can choose one where accommodations are in a tent or a ground-floor room. Level-entry flat-floored showers, ramps, and grab handles do exist, but only in a few safari lodges and resorts; by doing a bit of research, most disabled travelers should be able to find an itinerary that suits their needs. You should also check with each lodge to be sure they have game-viewing vehicles that can accommodate passengers with special needs -- some vehicles may be too cramped or difficult to climb into to make them worth considering. Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends, and organizes safaris to the more popular parks.

Tips for Families

Generally speaking, game-viewing safaris are not ideal for very young children, and many smaller, more intimate (and, consequently, peaceful) camps and lodges will place a moratorium on kids below a certain age. Certainly, you should think twice before taking children under 12 on game drives with other passengers -- for children under 8, it's an absolute no-no. The problem is that young children get bored (game drives can go on for hours), and boredom leads to listless noisemaking, which annoys other passengers, interferes with the game-viewing experience, and may even frighten the animals away. One option for smaller kids is to organize a game-viewing vehicle for exclusive use for your family, which means you can return to your lodge when you want. Also keep kids occupied with animal and bird checklists, and perhaps give them their own binoculars or cameras.

Conversely, taking teenagers on safari is a perfect introduction to the African bush. They have the patience and enthusiasm to look for animals on a long game drive, and it can't be more exciting for them (and their parents) when they spot their first elephant or lion. Besides considering how the behavior of your children will impact the people, animals, and environment around you, it's vital to think carefully about the natural dangers posed by the wilderness and its inhabitants. While on safari, you are always at some kind of risk of attack by wild animals, and while adults usually understand the importance of following simple safety instructions, children may take a lot of convincing. Many of the safari lodges and camps reviewed and recommended in this guide are unfenced, and it's relatively easy to imagine younger children wandering off into the bush. Many families do travel on safari, but unless you want to have sleepless nights, you'll want to ensure that your younger offspring are accommodated in the same room or in a suite with a bedroom adjoining yours.

Heritage Hotels (www.heritage-eastafrica.com) runs their very popular Adventurer's Club for children 4 to 12 and Young Rangers Club for those 12 to 17 at some of their Intrepids and Voyager safari lodges, which keep kids occupied while parents go on game drives. The lodges themselves have family rooms/tents.

The coastal resorts are very child-friendly, and good discounts can be had if you opt for a family or adjoining room. In some cases, children under 6 are free. Other considerations are that children are prone to sunburn or falling ill with minor stomach upsets and must be protected from contracting malaria at all times. Items such as diapers, powdered milk, and pureed food are available only in Tanzania's major city supermarkets, and they are expensive. You may want to consider bringing enough for the length of your vacation.

Calendar of Events

February

Sauti za Busara, February, Stone Town (www.busaramusic.com). Sauti za Busara means "songs of wisdom" in Kiswahili, and this annual festival of Swahili music attracts the best musicians and performers from all over East Africa, as well as visiting groups from West Africa. Most performances and workshops are held in Stone Town's Old Fort and Beit el Ajaib (House of Wonders) over 4 days, and there's a final night's party with DJs on the beach at Kendwa on the north coast. Music is varied, from traditional taarab (which combines African percussion and Arabic rhythms, and uses large numbers of musicians and Arabian instruments) to bongo flava, a local take on hip-hop and R&B.

June

Zanzibar International Film Festival of the Dhow Countries, June, Stone Town (www.ziff.or.tz). This festival celebrates and promotes the unique culture that grew as a result of the ancient trade route around the Indian Ocean and the dhow, which for centuries crossed Africa, Arabia, and Asia on the monsoon winds. All nations around the Indian Ocean participate in the festival, and films are judged, critiqued, and shown in venues along Stone Town's waterfront. Additionally, there are contemporary artists, musicians, cultural troupes, and photo exhibitions, and an arts-related program to creatively empower women and children.

Planning An Excursion

There are a plethora of operators, and it's worth obtaining a quote from a few of them before deciding. Note that almost all operators will usually stick to their preferred lodges and camps, not always to the benefit of the guest. Use the accommodations reviews to help inform your final overnight itinerary, as all operators will book the recommendations you discover in this guide if specifically requested, with the exception of those that offer only a full game package (your own driver and vehicle).

Top operators and travel agents for planning your safaris in Tanzania include the following:

Getting There

By Plane

Dar es Salaam's Julius Nyerere International Airport (JNIA), ideal for accessing the Southern Circuit or Mafia Island, is served by a number of airlines, some of which also touch down at Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA), which is the preferred airport for the Northern Circuit. Zanzibar International Airport (ZIA) has flights linking the regional airports and is a popular destination for charter flights for visitors from Europe on package holidays. All Tanzanian airports have banks with ATMs and exchange facilities, car-hire desks, duty-free shops, and restaurants. For those visiting only the national parks in Tanzania's Northern Circuit; another option is to fly to Nairobi, though you'll need a yellow fever vaccination certificate and visas for both countries. Shuttle bus services operate between Nairobi and Arusha, the closest town to the parks.

By Road

Tanzania's busiest border crossing is with Kenya at Namanga. (www.riversideshuttle.com).

By Boat

There are no passenger ferry services to Tanzania. Except for short excursions for snorkeling or sightseeing from Zanzibar and the coast, it is illegal for foreigners to travel by dhow in East Africa. However, there are ferry services from mainland Tanzania to Zanzibar and Pemba and on Lake Victoria.

Staying Healthy

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Malaria is responsible for more than one million deaths in Africa each year, so it is imperative to take malaria precautions seriously. The threat of infection -- the result of a bite from a disease-carrying mosquito -- is present throughout the country, though the risk reduces at higher altitudes such as the Kenyan Highlands and Nairobi. Besides using prophylaxis medication, such as Malarone or Larium, arm yourself with strong mosquito repellents that can be safely sprayed or rubbed onto exposed skin, and make use of mosquito nets (these are a standard feature of nearly every property we've reviewed in this book) when you retire at night. Mosquitoes generally appear the moment the sun goes down, and just because you cannot see or hear them does not mean that they aren't buzzing around your ankles -- stay alert and do everything in your power to prevent being bitten (even if you have taken medication). Bear in mind, too, that children are more at risk of contracting the disease. Note that prophylactics have intense side effects on a small percentage of people, including forms of psychosis and depression -- it's worth taking the medication a few days before you leave. If you become ill with either a fever or flulike symptoms while traveling -- or up to 1 year after returning home -- you should seek medical attention at once and let your physician know the details of your travel history, along with details of the prophylactics you've been taking. For additional information on malaria, protection from insect bites, and antimalarial drugs, visit the CDC Travelers' Health website at www.cdc.gov/malaria.

Although mosquito bites are responsible for the greatest number of deaths in Africa, HIV/AIDS is obviously a major health concern in both countries, and you should remain cautious of this fact if you intend to have sexual relations with locals or if you come into contact with human blood.

Less prominent, but occasionally reported, risks in Kenya include tick bite fever, Rift Valley fever, typhus (usually the result of a tick bite), African sleeping sickness, plague, and relapsing fever. None of these pose as great a threat as chloroquine-resistant malaria, but it pays to be vigilant and try to protect yourself against bites.

Cholera has been reported in certain parts of Kenya and Tanzania, but you are unlikely to encounter it on safari. Bilharzia or schistosomiasis (which spends part of its life cycle in snails and the other part in humans) is a concern in and around Lake Victoria, so it's best not to swim there or in any other lakes. Rabies is prevalent in Kenya. Avoid touching any feral animals; if you are bitten by a domestic or wild animal, clean the wound immediately and seek medical treatment. This involves taking a vaccine, and the dose depends on whether you have already been vaccinated against rabies -- not necessary for a one-off visit, but it should be considered for lengthy stays in developing countries.

For general information about outbreaks of infectious diseases abroad, consult the website of the World Health Organization (www.who.int/en), and get more health information for travelers from www.who.int/ith/en.

Dietary Red Flags -- Never drink water from any tap unless you have been assured that it is completely safe to do so (and only if the assurance comes from someone you can trust). On the whole, at every single lodge and camp you'll encounter while on safari, you'll be briefed on the quality of the water and whether it's drinkable. Most places will provide bottled or filtered water in your room or tent; this may be free or chargeable. Most food in Tanzania is safe to eat, but be wary of ice in drinks and washed salads and fruits, and always ask where the water has come from. Also avoid reheated food or food that has been sitting around for awhile -- equally relevant to a street stall and a hotel buffet.

Tanzanians are big meat-eaters, but that doesn't mean that vegetarians should go hungry. When making reservations for safari lodges and camps, make your hosts aware of your dietary predilections. You can do this either directly or through your operator or travel agent. Bear in mind that many of these lodges are a great distance away from towns where special foodstuffs can be purchased, so supplies need to be purchased in advance. If there are vegetarian guests, they need to make adjustments to their shopping list ahead of schedule, and you'll enjoy a more exciting culinary experience if you give prior warning.

Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Although unlikely while on safari, there is a chance of encountering snakes, spiders, or scorpions, and on the coast a variety of sea creatures that can sting. Most snakes will clear off before you have a chance to tread on them, and the old tale that snakes are more scared of humans is generally true. The most worrisome snake is the puff adder, considered too lazy to move off when they sense you coming. In the event that you are bitten, stay calm and seek medical assistance immediately. Remember, the majority of snake bites are not poisonous. Spiders and scorpions may be spotted but are unlikely to pose a threat; the general rule is to leave them alone. At the coast, certain tropical sea creatures can inject venom into bathers' feet, which can be very painful. Wear plastic shoes if such creatures are reported in the area.

High-Altitude Hazards -- Altitude sickness can be a risk for anyone heading to altitudes above 3,000m (9,840 ft.) above sea level, so hikers and climbers tackling Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro should take adequate precautions and prepare properly for the ascent. Symptoms include shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, headaches, and dizziness. Mild altitude sickness requires rest before ascending higher; severe altitude sickness requires medication and a slow descent in stages. It's best not to attempt a climb if you have a bad cold or chest infection, or within 48 hours of going scuba diving. It's also a good idea not to go straight from the coast to Mount Kenya or Kilimanjaro, but to acclimatize at a midway altitude, such as Nairobi or the foothills around Moshi, for a couple of days.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- It can get incredibly hot under the African sun -- particularly in arid and semi-arid areas. Arm yourself with a high-factor sunscreen, a hat that will protect your face, and good sunglasses, and be vigilant to prevent overexposure to the sun. Be especially cautious of children. At the other extreme, many people are surprised by the prevalence of extreme cold in certain parts of the country. Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro may lie on the equator, but temperatures, particularly at higher altitudes, are freezing. If you're going to climb, you'll need special protective clothing. Temperature fluctuations are known to take travelers by surprise; because the countries are on the equator, the sun disappears rather suddenly (at more or less the same time throughout the year), and nightfall can bring quick temperature changes.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

While in the tourist areas, you'll have access to good medical facilities. The coast, too, has top-class facilities, which in some cases even offer cosmetic procedures to vacationers. If you are going to more remote regions, be aware that medical facilities (including drugstores) are few and far between. There may be occasional clinics, but these are poorly equipped and may not be able to dispense medicines that you might require. For minor ailments, pharmacists can assist and recommend a doctor, if necessary. Expect to pay for any medical services either upfront or immediately after treatment. If you have international medical insurance, keep the receipts so your company can reimburse you. However, if you become seriously ill and require advanced medical attention or surgery, you should definitely fly home, as local equipment and training standards are still far below those in the West. Your travel insurance should include repatriation to your home country in an emergency. Within Kenya and based at Nairobi's Wilson Airport, the Flying Doctor's Society of Africa (www.amref.org) provides evacuation from remote areas in both Kenya and Tanzania to the nearest hospital. You may want to consider a temporary membership ($50) if you are going off the beaten track, but for the more popular parks and reserves, there are adequate medical provisions in case of an emergency.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Age incurs great respect among Tanzanians -- mzee means "old man" in Kiswahili but is actually an honored title of respect -- so older travelers are generally treated with politeness. However, there are no special discounts or provision for senior travelers. The country doesn't have any specific restrictions aside from health risks, which can be avoided with the right preparation.

Staying Safe

In countries with rampant poverty and police departments that are often seen to be ineffective, crime can be a problem. However, much of the crime around Tanzania is not directed at tourists and is in areas most tourists wouldn't visit or are in transit through (Dar es Salaam and Arusha). The biggest threat to visitors is petty theft, particularly in Dar es Salaam, and Zanzibar. In Dar es Salaam, theft is sometimes accompanied by an armed threat and violence, and carjacking is a particular problem (although, to put this in context, this particular crime is usually targeted at expats with expensive four-wheel-drive vehicles). Nevertheless, if driving, be alert and vigilant at all times. Pickpockets operate in cities and crowded areas, and travelers should be wary of "snatch and run" thieves who routinely snatch jewelry and other objects from people in the street or through open vehicle windows. Vehicle windows should be kept up and doors locked regardless of the time of day or weather. Thieves on matatus, buses, and trains may steal valuables from inattentive passengers. Never leave any luggage unattended. It is safer not to carry valuables -- store them in your hotel room safe -- and try to limit the amount of cash and valuables that you carry with you. Make every effort not to flaunt items such as cameras and mobile phones. Walking alone or at night, especially in downtown areas, in public parks, along footpaths, on beaches, and in poorly lit areas, is dangerous and discouraged.

Be aware that political demonstrations occur from time to time in East Africa. In late 2007 and early 2008, following the presidential and parliamentary elections held on December 27, Kenya was hit by intense unrest and violence. The violence, which made its way into news headlines around the world and portrayed a situation that many believe was far worse than the reality, followed the announcement by the Electoral Commission that incumbent candidate Mwai Kibaki had retained the presidency. Violence flared up in opposition strongholds and most heavily impacted the Nyanza, Rift Valley, and western provinces, as well as Nairobi and parts of Coast Province; more than 1,000 people were killed in the conflict and 300,000 were displaced. In previous general elections in Tanzania, there were some violent protests on Zanzibar and Pemba between supporters of varying political parties, but elections have passed peacefully in recent years. That said, safari destinations are not affected in any way during political elections, and as long as you avoid lengthy stays in populated areas (and, naturally, public demonstrations, which tend to happen in public parks, near government buildings, and around university campuses), protest activity is unlikely to affect tourist attractions outside Nairobi. For up-to-date information, contact the State Department (tel. 202/501-4444; www.state.gov/travelandbusiness). For more safety tips, download the Department of State's pamphlet "Tips for Travelers Abroad," at http://travel.state.gov.

When to Go

Sitting on the equator, Tanzania enjoys temperate climates and is pretty much a year-round destination; there is remarkably little fluctuation in monthly temperatures. However, temperatures on the rim of the Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater drop dramatically at night, particularly June to August, so pack a warm layer or two. Temperatures drop below freezing on Mount Kilimanjaro (and Mount Meru at certain times), where there is permanent snow on the highest peaks. To keep an eye on local weather patterns, visit www.africanweather.net.

Seasonal fluctuations mostly relate to rainfall, which -- in game-viewing regions -- can have a dramatic impact on animal populations and accessibility, and consequently also on accommodations prices. Generally there are two seasons, dry and rainy. The best months for game viewing are generally the dry seasons, which are January to March and June to September. At these times, vegetation is light and there is no surface water created by the rains that disperse the animals, and instead they congregate around the remaining rivers and waterholes. Drier weather also means less hassle by mosquitoes. Many safari lodges and camps will close during the "long rains" in April and May -- considered low season -- and this is when you'll score the best deals on lodging and are least likely to feel besieged by other travelers. However, getting around at this time (as well as in Oct and Nov, during the so-called "short rains") can be difficult, as dirt roads turn to mud, and many become impassable.

Top season to visit Tanzania's Serengeti is during the Migration, which starts as early as July and can continue through November (though Aug-Oct are the most productive months); however, this period is generally marred by popularity, as visitor numbers soar and the best viewing areas are mobbed by homo sapiens. Note also that the Migration continues year-round, with most of the movement happening in Tanzania's Serengeti, so you can plan to incorporate the Migration pretty much any time of the year, as long as you're flexible about where to go. Toward the end of May, when the rains abate, the Migration moves north and/or into the western corridor, and the river crossings usually happen in July. Between August and October, the herds are at the Mara River (in the far northern Serengeti), and over these months they cross backward and forward, in and out of Kenya, drawn by localized rain showers. In November, when the rain clouds usually gather to green the south, they again cross the Mara, passing through the eastern Serengeti to return to the short-grass plains of the southern Serengeti in December.

Bird-watchers will want to visit in the winter months from October to April, when many birds migrate to East Africa from Europe.

Calving season usually occurs January to March in Tanzania's southern plains. This is an incredible time to be in the Serengeti, with thousands of calves being born every day, and -- thanks to the short-grass plains -- the riveting predator action in clear view.

Tanzania's coasts and Zanzibar can be visited at any time of year, although again the rainy seasons may hamper beach time. They enjoy a tropical climate with average daytime temperatures of 30°C (86°F) and long hours of sunshine, making them a perfect destination for a beach vacation. During the day the humidity is tamed by sea breezes, but it can feel sultry at night. High season on the Kenyan and Tanzanian coasts is November to February, when it's a popular winter sun destination from the Northern Hemisphere.