Planning a trip to Tegucigalpa

Calendar of Events

A Holy Celebration

The Virgen de Suyapa, a cedar statue of the Virgin Mary, is one of the holiest Catholic relics in Honduras and Central America. Every February 3 and the week surrounding that date is La Feria de la Virgen de Suyapa, a time for celebration of the iconic statue throughout Tegucigalpa and the whole country. The processions and festivities in Tegucigalpa center around the Basílica de Suyapa.

Neighborhoods in Brief

The Colonial Center  -- The colonial center (or downtown), while dirty, crowded, noisy, and dangerous at night, is hit or miss. Some can ignore the grime and chaos for the finer points and history, while others cannot. Parque Morazán, or Parque Central, is the epicenter of all activity in the city's colonial center, and nearly all important museums and churches can be found within a few blocks of it, as can the fast food chains and clothes shops for the fashion unconscious. There are hotels here, although few are worth staying in unless you are a backpacker with a non-existent budget.

Colonia Palmira and Colonia San Carlos -- East of downtown are these middle and upper class residential communities that are home to the majority of hotels, most popular restaurants, trendiest clubs, and a variety of shopping boutiques. This is the commercial heart and center of tourist facilities, such as embassies, airline offices, and travel agencies. Much of the action sits within a few blocks on either side of Boulevard Morazán.

Comayagüela -- This sprawling, slum-like neighborhood west of the Río Choluteca was once a city of its own, until it was absorbed into the Distrito Central in 1938. While home to numerous colonial buildings, most are falling apart and neglected. Apart from going to a bus terminal, there is really no need to visit here or stay here. It's quite a dangerous area, actually -- so don't walk here alone, and take taxis to get in and out at night. The largest market in Tegucigalpa, the San Isidro market, which sprawls into the streets surrounding it, can be found here. Also, don't confuse Comayagüela with Comayagua. They are nothing alike. Comayagua is a colonial city off the highway to San Pedro Sula that is home to the country's largest Semana Santa festivities in Central America.

Boulevard Juan Pablo II and Southern Districts -- The area east of Parque La Paz and to the south of Boulevard Morazán holds numerous upscale residential districts that sit near the boulevards of Juan Pablo II and Suyapa. This is an area of some of the most recent development and where you can find the very best hotels, such as the Intercontinental, and the Multiplaza Mall complex, which is surrounded by massive international stores and restaurant chains, like any North American suburban shopping complex. It may lack Honduran character, but to businessmen in and out on quick trips who are only seeking comfort, it is the prime choice.

Suyapa -- Suyapa is a small city to the east of Tegucigalpa that has been eaten by the capital's urban sprawl. It is best known for the massive Santuario Nacional and Basílica de Suyapa, where the country's holiest Catholic shrine, the Virgin of Suyapa, is kept.

Getting There

By Air

Although most international travelers fly into the larger San Pedro Sula Airport, Tegucigalpa's Tocontín International Airport (TGU; tel. 504/2234-2402) does have a few international routes. American Airlines (tel. 504/2220-7585), and TACA (tel. 504/2221-6495) all land here from North American destinations.

Regional airlines serving the capital are Taca Regional Airlines (tel. 504/2281-8220; www.flyislena.com), Aerolíneas Sosa (tel. 504/2443-2519; www.aerolineasosahn.com), Lanhsa Airlines (tel. 504/9486-2145; www.lanhsa.com), and CM Airlines (tel. 504/2234-1886; www.cmairlines.com). There are direct flights to Roatán, La Ceiba, and San Pedro, while other destinations connect in La Ceiba.

Tocontín has just one ATM, a craft shop, a call center, and a small cafe -- but little else. The airport is 6km (3 3/4 miles) south of the center on the highway to Choluteca. A taxi to downtown or Boulevard Morazán will be about L200 to L250. Alternatively, you can catch a northbound bus or collective taxi to the center of town for L20 right outside the main airport gates; just listen for the touts shouting "Te-goose."

Tocontín Toils -- After a TACA airlines jet carrying 124 passengers overshot the runway at Tegucigalpa's Tocontín International Airport and crashed in May 2008, killing five people, the airport was shut down for more than 6 weeks and was being considered for permanent closure. Many have long considered the airport one of the world's most dangerous because of the short runway and the proximity of nearby hills. While recent years have seen improvements to the terminal and general facilities, there is ongoing talk of building a new airport in a different location. Technology may just save Tocontín, though. In December 2008, new Delta B737-700 aircrafts -- designed for short runways, extreme temperatures, and higher altitudes -- began flying to the troubled airport 5 days a week from Atlanta.

By Car

If you are exploring nearby regions or other parts of the country, renting a car can be a good and even economical idea. The highways leading to/from the city are generally in good condition, particularly the excellent CA 5 that runs to San Pedro Sula. You have to keep a close eye out for potholes and the occasional herd of cows, but compared to more rural parts of the country the roads are good.

Tegucigalpa is right on the CA 5, which ends 241km (150 miles) away in San Pedro Sula (3 1/2-4 hr.), passing Lago de Yojoa, Siguatepe, and Comayagua en route. CA 5 also heads south to Choluteca, where you can connect with CA 1, or the Pan-American Highway that runs to El Salvador, Nicaragua, and beyond.

The CA 11-A road to Copán is a jaw-dropping route through the mountains, which is windy, mostly unpaved, and sometimes impassable due to rain. Many drivers prefer to head back toward San Pedro Sula and catch Hwy. 20 through Santa Barbara before hitting the lake.

If you're heading to the North Coast, you have two options: one is to go back to San Pedro Sula, and the other is an unpredictable route through the wild Olancho region that is prone to highway robberies and poor roads. Most choose the former.

Car-rental agencies are located both at the airport and in town. Companies include Advance (beside the Institute of Tourism, Col. San Carlos; tel. 504/2235-9528; www.advancerentacar.com), Avis (Edificio Marinakys at Blvd. Suyapa; tel. 504/2239-5712; www.avis.com), Payless (Edificio Saenz at Blvd. Europea; tel. 504/2245-7054), and Hertz (Centro Commercio Villa Real; tel. 504/2235-8582; www.hertz.com).

By Bus

Although Tegucigalpa doesn't have a main bus terminal, most of the bus companies have terminals within a few blocks of each other in the Comayagüela section of town. Because this neighborhood isn't safe, use caution getting there and do not leave your baggage unattended.

Hedman Alas (13a Calle and Av. 11; tel. 504/2237-7143), has luxury service four times a day to San Pedro Sula (3 1/2-4 hr.; L505), where connections can then be made to Copán, Tela, or La Ceiba. Viana Clase de Oro (Blvd. FFAA, at the Esso station; (tel. 504/2225-6584), runs five first- and economy-class buses daily to San Pedro Sula, between 6:30am and 6pm (L450-L780), that continue on to La Ceiba.

Other options for getting to San Pedro include the operator Saenz (Centro Comercial Perisur; tel. 504/2233-4229), which has regular and first-class, nonstop service six times a day to the capital (L456), along with El Rey Express (Banco Central; tel. 504/2237-8561), which stops in Comayagua, as well as San Pedro (L418). For La Ceiba (7 hr. away; L475), try the operator Cristina (tel. 504/2441-2028), which departs five times a day between 5:30am and 3:30pm. San Miguel Plus (tel. 504/233-4851; sanmiguelplus@gmail.com) has three daily trips from Tegucigalpa to Tela, which continue on to La Ceiba (L450).

Travelers crossing the El Salvador and Nicaragua borders have several options. To get to El Amatillo (3 1/2 hr.; L140) on the El Salvador border, you have to catch one of the buses leaving from the Mercado Mayoreo, southwest of Comayagüela on the highway to Olancho. For the Nicaraguan border at El Paraíso (2 hr.; L120) via Danlí, try Discua Litena (Mercado Jacaleapa; tel. 504/2230-0470), which leaves every hour from 6:30am to 7:30pm.

If you're traveling elsewhere in Central America, your best choice is Tica Bus (16a Calle and Av. 5; tel. 504/2220-0579; www.ticabus.com), a company that has daily departures to San Salvador (6 1/2 hr.; L950), Managua (7-8 hr.; L1,045), Guatemala City (14 hr.; L1,140), and journeys as far as Mexico and Panama. Also, for San Salvador, there's King Quality (6 hr.; L760; tel. 504/2225-5415; www.king-qualityca.com), at Boulevard Comunidad Economica Europea in Comayagüela, which has business class service twice a day with meals on board and free Wi-Fi (in Clase King). From San Salvador, they have connections throughout Central America, as well.

Fast Facts

Banks -- Most banks and ATMs are either downtown or along Boulevard Morazán, as well as in the malls and large hotels. BAC (Blvd. Morazán and Av. Cruz; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-noon) exchanges traveler's checks and has a 24-hour ATM, as does Banco Atlántida (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; Sat 9am-noon) on Parque Central and HSBC (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; Sat 9am-noon), with more than a dozen locations around town.

Currency Exchange -- There's an official currency exchange booth at the airport; less-official operations are on Calle Peatonal and in the Parque Morazán.

Drugstores -- Farma City (tel. 504/2232-7949), with locations on Boulevard Morazán, downtown, and elsewhere in the city, is one of the most reputable in the country.

Emergencies -- For police or medical emergencies, dial tel. 199. For fire emergencies, dial tel. 198.

Hospitals -- Honduras Medical Center (Av. Juan Lindo; tel. 504/2216-1201), one of the country's top hospitals, is open 24 hours, as is Clinica Viera (across from the Alcadia; tel. 504/2237-3156).

Internet -- Almost every hotel in Tegucigalpa has either Wi-Fi or a computer station in the hotel. Outside of hotels, the best cybercafes with cheap prices and fast speeds can be found in malls, such as Computeck in the Multiplaza Mall. Elsewhere, your other best bet is downtown during the daylight hours, where you'll find dozens of small cybercafes to choose from. Most are within a block or two of Plaza Morazán.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- Most hotels have some sort of laundry service, though independent operators will do it for far cheaper. One to try is Super Jet (Av. Juan Gutenberg, before it turns into Av. La Paz), which has same-day service for L40 per kilo.

Police -- The main police office is at 5a Av. and Av. Lempira; police can be reached by dialing tel. 504/2779-0476 or 199.

Post Office -- The downtown post office (Mon-Fri 7:30am-6pm; Sat 8am-1pm) is at Avenidas Barahona and Calle El Telégrafo. There is also a DHL (tel. 504/2220-1800) and Mailboxes, Etc. (tel. 504/2232-3184) on Boulevard Morazán.

Safety -- Tegucigalpa, as a whole, is not a safe city. Parts, such as the center of town and Boulevard Morazán, are fine for strolling during the day, but don't flash any valuables like jewelry, cameras, or iPods. In other areas, especially in Comayagüela and around the bus terminals, walk with extreme caution and try to avoid walking alone. At night, always take taxis wherever you go.

Telephone -- Hondutel (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 10am-4pm), 1 block off the park at Avenidas Colón and Calle El Telégrafo, offers international calls, although you can find cheap call service at any of the cybercafes found all over the colonial center.

Water -- Unless you are a fan of Montezuma's Revenge, do not drink the water from the tap. Bottled water is cheap and plentiful, and most hotels will even leave complimentary bottles in your room.

Getting Around

On Foot

Much of Tegucigalpa can be explored on foot. The colonial center and Colonia Palmira are all safe and secure during the day, though you should stick to taxi cabs during the night and never travel alone, just to be sure.

By Taxi

Taxis are cheap, plentiful, and far safer for getting between neighborhoods than walking or taking the public buses. Traveling within the center is usually less than L80.

By Car

If you are just staying in Tegucigalpa for the duration of your trip, you likely do not need a rental car. Driving in Tegucigalpa is simply a mess. Most streets are one-way, and lanes are often nonexistent, particularly in the center. Traffic in Tegucigalpa tends to always be ferocious. Rarely are you alone on a street, and horns are used at all times. It seems that some people even think that pounding the horn will get a stoplight to turn green. It won't. Sticking to taxis will avoid the frustrations of driving in the crowded city streets and finding places to park.

Most hotels in the capital have gated parking lots for visitors to use, usually free of charge, though you might need to get a stamp from the front desk. In upscale restaurants, usually there is either a valet attendant or a guy in front of the restaurant who will direct you to a spot. Parking elsewhere is where it gets tricky. Downtown, there are few parking lots or garages, so many end up parking on the streets, though this is usually illegal. It is not recommended to park downtown, especially at night, as break-ins are common. In malls, there are usually parking lots or garages, though they are so popular that you often need to wait around until a spot opens up. In some cases, you may park, and someone with a neon vest or reflector jacket will wave at you or possibly help you out of your car. He is there to watch your car and expects a small tip -- just L10 to L20 will suffice -- when you return.

Driving Tips -- The most common problem that North American drivers in Honduras (and the rest of Latin America, for that matter) have is being a defensive driver. While in North America, you can drive in a lane and expect that a car won't try to push you out of your lane; that's not the case here. If you are not ready with your horn to maintain your lane, other cars will run you right off the road or into another vehicle. Do not be afraid to use your horn, and use your full concentration when driving.