Planning a trip to Texas

Tips for Student Travelers

The top spots for college students heading to Texas for spring break are South Padre Island for sun and fun and, to a lesser extent, Big Bend National Park for serious hiking, but all of the beach areas and parks are popular.

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; tel. 132 782 in Australia; tel. 0871 2 300 040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still 25 or under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Fast Facts

American Express -- There are branches throughout Texas. To report a lost card, call tel. 800/528-4800. To report lost traveler's checks, call tel. 800/221-7282.

Area Codes -- Area codes for Dallas are 214 and 972; Fort Worth, 817; Houston, 713 and 281; San Antonio, 210; and Austin, 512.

Automobile Organizations -- Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to an auto club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357). AAA is actually an organization of regional auto clubs, so look under "AAA Automobile Club" in the White Pages of the telephone directory. AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP [222-4357]).

Business Hours -- Offices are usually open weekdays from 9am to 5pm. Banks are open weekdays from 9am to 3pm or later and sometimes Saturday mornings. Stores typically open between 9 and 10am and close between 5 and 6pm Monday through Saturday. Stores in shopping complexes or malls tend to stay open late, until about 9pm on weekdays and weekends, and many malls and larger department stores are open on Sundays. A growing number of discount stores (such as Wal-Mart) and grocery stores are open 24 hours a day.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 21, although minors can legally drink as long as they are within sight of their 21-or-older parents, guardians, or spouses. Where you can or cannot buy a drink, and what kind of drink, is determined in Texas by local option election, so the state is essentially a patchwork of regulations. In most parts of the state you can buy liquor, beer, and wine by the drink. However, there are a few areas where you can buy only beer (which Texas defines as having no more than 4% alcohol; anything higher is "ale"), and others where you can purchase beer or wine by the glass but not liquor. There are also some areas that are completely dry -- mostly in the Panhandle Plains and near the state's eastern border -- and other confusing areas where one county will be dry (meaning you have to join private clubs -- membership is normally free and immediately granted -- to drink in restaurants, and liquor stores will stock beer and wine only) and the county right next to it will be wet.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. If your small appliances use 220-240 volts, you'll need a 110-volt transformer and a plug adapter with two flat parallel pins to operate them here. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts into 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.austemb.org). There are consulates in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance anywhere in the United States. This is a toll-free call. (No coins are required at public telephones.) If you encounter serious problems, contact the Traveler's Aid Society International (tel. 202/546-1127; www.travelersaid.org). The Texas office is at the Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport (tel. 972/574-4420). This nationwide, nonprofit, social-service organization geared to helping travelers in difficult straits offers services that might include reuniting families separated while traveling, providing food and/or shelter to people stranded without cash, or even emotional counseling. If you're in trouble, seek them out.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, in the U.S., the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol) is high. Texas often has some of the lowest gasoline prices in the United States; although prices fluctuate (and will surely rise sharply again), at press time regular unleaded gas ranged from $1.70 to $2.49 per gallon, with the lowest prices in the Gulf Coast area (for current prices, check out www.texasgasprices.com). Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day, Washington's Birthday), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). Also, the Tuesday following the first Monday in November is Election Day and is a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Internet Access -- You'll have trouble finding convenient Internet access in the smaller towns, where you might have the best luck at the local library. Before you go, check for an Internet cafe in your destination at www.cybercafes.com.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. Call your embassy or consulate.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to contact all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/622-7747. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212. If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com and click on "Calculate Postage."

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Medical Conditions -- If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440 or 301/519-6616 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The state's largest daily newspapers include the Dallas Morning News, Houston Chronicle, Fort Worth Star-Telegram, and San Antonio Express-News. Other cities and large towns, especially regional hubs, have daily newspapers, and many smaller towns publish weeklies. Free arts-heavy weeklies include the Dallas Observer and the Austin Chronicle. National newspapers such as USA Today and the Wall Street Journal can be purchased at newsstands in cities and major hotels; and you can also purchase two good monthly magazines, Texas Highways and Texas Monthly, throughout the state.

Police -- Dial tel. 911 for a police or medical emergency.

Smoking -- There is no statewide public smoking ban in Texas (a ban was proposed but significantly weakened in 2007); at least 20 individual cities have banned smoking in restaurants and/or bars and clubs and government buildings. Of major cities, San Antonio, Austin, and Houston have perhaps the strongest antismoking ordinances, with banning of smoking ranging from all public places (with exceptions for enclosed bar and outdoor seating areas designated as "smoking") to restaurants, bars, and restaurant bar areas.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. Texans like to brag that the state is a great place to live because there is no state income tax. However, money for government services has to come from somewhere, and one of those sources is you, the traveler. Texas lodging taxes are among the highest in the region, ranging from the basic hotel rate of 6% to 17%, with the steepest rate in Houston. Sales taxes in Texas vary by county, but usually total from the basic state sales tax of 6.25% to 8.25%, slightly higher than in most surrounding states.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). You can telegraph (wire) money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% of the amount sent. Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use it). Many hotel rooms are wired for guests' fax machines. A less expensive way to send and receive faxes may be at stores such as the UPS Store.

Time -- Almost all of Texas is in the Central Standard Time zone (CST); the only exception is the state's far-western tip, which observes Mountain Standard Time (MST). The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST); Central Standard Time (CST), which includes all of Texas except its far-western tip; Mountain Standard Time (MST); and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, noon in New York City (EST) is 11am in Dallas (CST), 10am in Denver (MST), 9am in Los Angeles (PST), 8am in Anchorage (AST), and 7am in Honolulu (HST).

Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cabdrivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are probably the best bet for good, clean facilities. If possible, avoid the toilets at parks and beaches, which tend to be dirty; some may be unsafe. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Useful Phone Numbers

• Texas Parks & Wildlife Park Information tel. 800/792-1112
• Hunting information tel. 512/389-4505
• Fishing information tel. 512/389-4505
• Poison Center tel. 800/POISON-1 (764-7661)
• Road conditions hot line tel. 800/452-9292
• Weather hot line tel. 512/232-4265
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control international traveler's hot line tel. 404/332-4559

Tips for Families

Texas is a family-friendly state, with lots of things for all ages to enjoy. Throughout this guide you'll find numerous attractions, lodgings, and even restaurants that are especially well suited to kids. These include places such as the Fort Worth Zoo, Six Flags Over Texas in Arlington, the Children's Museum of Houston, and the Zilker Zephyr Miniature Trail in Austin.

Health & Insurance

Health

Vacationers in Texas generally need take no extra health precautions than they would at home. It is worth noting, however, that those hiking in the drier parts of the state, such as in the deserts of West Texas or the mountains of Big Bend and Guadalupe Mountains national parks, should carry more water than they think they will need, and drink it.

When heading into the great outdoors, keep in mind that Texas has a large number of poisonous snakes and insects, and you should be very careful where you put your hands and feet. If you're hiking, stick to designated hiking areas, stay on established trails, and carry rain gear. When boating, wear a life jacket.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Unless you're camping out in remote Big Bend and other areas, over-the-counter medicines are widely available, as are generic equivalents of common prescription drugs.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns and for lists of doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home -- Most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. If you get sick in Texas, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital; many have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. For U.S. travelers, most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- While Tex-Mex cuisine is generally milder than Mexican cooking, travelers who are unfamiliar with hot chiles and jalapeños or who have weak stomachs or ulcers should proceed with caution when eating Mexican food. Tap water is potable throughout the state, but not to everyone's liking. Texans are big meat eaters in general, but in larger cities, vegetarian-friendly restaurants are widely available.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- If you venture into the West Texas desert, snakes, spiders, and scorpions could be an issue, so it would be wise to carry appropriate medicines, especially if camping.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Perhaps the biggest health concern in Texas, with its big sky and blistering heat, is sun exposure. Travelers should make every attempt to protect themselves, including headgear, sunscreen, and sufficient hydration.

Safety

Most areas of Texas are as safe as any other part of the U.S. However, large cities such as Houston, Dallas, and San Antonio have their share of big-city crime (a few years back, downtown Houston had a particularly dangerous reputation), as do border towns such as El Paso. Drug smuggling is common along the U.S.-Mexico border. To steer clear of stumbling into a drug transaction or police raid, avoid hiking alone in isolated areas along the border and stay in the major tourist areas in border towns.

If you're in doubt about which neighborhoods are safe, don't hesitate to make inquiries with the hotel front desk staff or the local tourist office.

Dealing with Discrimination -- Texas has a lamentable history of race-related incidents, and bigoted and racist opinions are still found in some small towns and among some less cosmopolitan Texans. Regrettably, discrimination is still occasionally directed toward African Americans and Hispanics (and, more recently, people of Middle Eastern descent or appearance), as well as openly gay travelers. However, most travelers of color and ethnicity, and gays and lesbians, will likely encounter few (if any) problems. African-American travelers may want to be cautious, however, when traveling through the small towns of East Texas. Also, around border towns, travelers of Hispanic descent or appearance may find that they are stopped by the border patrol more frequently than non-Hispanics, so be sure to carry a current, government-issued picture ID.

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- Although it's not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home -- but check your coverage before you leave.

International visitors to the U.S. should note that unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Packages such as Europ Assistance's "Worldwide Healthcare Plan" are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States. Though lack of health insurance may prevent you from being admitted to a hospital in nonemergencies, don't worry about being left on a street corner to die: The American way is to fix you now and bill the daylights out of you later.

If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated in the United States.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845 606 2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Regions in Brief

You can plan your trip to Texas in a couple of ways. If you're interested in a particular activity, such as birding, you might choose two or three locations and divide your time among them. Conversely, you could first select a destination, such as one of the state's major cities or national parks, and then decide what to do while you're there.

Because this is such a large state, many visitors will limit their Texas vacation to one or two regions. We've summarized our coverage of the state to help you decide what kind of Texas experience you want to have.

The Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex -- Made famous by both a TV show about a Texas oil family and a football team, and infamous by the assassination of JFK, Dallas is a center of commerce, home to headquarters for numerous banking, insurance, and other businesses. Big D, as it's known to locals, is one of the most sophisticated cities in Texas, with excellent restaurants, glitzy shopping, swank hotels, and a continually expanding arts scene. Dallas's unpretentious sister, Fort Worth, is equal parts Old West and "Museum Capital of the Southwest." Longhorns still rumble through the Stockyards National Historic District, while the city attracts art lovers to its top-notch museums. Both cities make good bases for outdoor recreation, children's activities, and professional sports outings; the city of Arlington, sandwiched between Dallas and Fort Worth, is home to several theme parks and the Texas Rangers baseball team.

Houston & East Texas -- The state's largest city (and the fourth-most-populous city in the United States), Houston is the heart of the nation's oil and gas industry. Although not considered a primary tourist destination, Houston offers an abundance of attractions, including several excellent museums, performing arts such as the city's outstanding symphony orchestra, and a variety of outdoor activities. NASA's Johnson Space Center made Houston famous and is the city's most popular attraction. Nearby Galveston combines small-town easiness with a good mix of museums and children's activities, plus beaches that draw hordes of springbreakers and families throughout the warm months. East Texas, along the Louisiana border, is a prime destination for anglers, boaters, and other outdoor recreationists.

The Texas Gulf Coast -- A world removed from the rest of the state, the coastal areas fronting the Gulf of Mexico feature beach activities as well as good boating and even some surfing (okay, it's no Hawaii, but you can surf here). The Texas Gulf Coast is among the nation's top bird-watching regions, and also offers superb fishing. You'll also find a handful of good museums and an active art scene.

San Antonio -- The delightful, Latin-inflected city of San Antonio hosts the most famous historic site in Texas: the Alamo, where in 1836 Davy Crockett and about 187 other Texas freedom fighters died at the hands of the much larger Mexican army. San Antonio also offers numerous other historic sites, a charming River Walk, fine cultural attractions, and a madcap schedule of festivals that make it a popular party spot. West and north of the city, the Texas Hill Country is one of the prettiest areas of Texas, dotted with hills (of course!), lakes, rivers, wildflowers, and picturesque small towns with authentic Texas flavor. There are numerous historic inns, antiques stores, small museums, and opportunities for watersports and other outdoor activities.

Austin -- The state capital, Austin is a laid-back but sophisticated and suddenly bustling, large city with a distinct personality -- a little unusual, a bit intellectual, and a lot different from other Texas cities of its size. It's a place where you'll see bumper stickers that read KEEP AUSTIN WEIRD, even though it's experienced a technology-based boom and a huge influx of money and new residents from California and elsewhere across the nation. In addition to museums, historic sites, and a wide range of outdoor activities, you'll find the best nightlife in the state, with live music practically everywhere, any night of the week -- from country to blues to rock to swing. To the west, the Hill Country is easily accessible via day trips.

West Texas -- Though Texas is largely urban, if you grew up watching TV and movie Westerns, you'd be more likely to believe the plains of West Texas are the real Texas, a land of dusty roads, weathered cowboys, and huge cattle ranches. Although the shootouts are now staged and the cattle drives are by truck and rail, this region retains much of the small-town Old West flavor, and even the region's biggest city, El Paso, is in many ways just an overgrown cow town. The area's history comes alive at numerous museums and historic sites, such as the combination courtroom and saloon used in the late 1800s by Judge Roy Bean, the self-styled "Law West of the Pecos." West Texas also has the 67,000-acre Lake Amistad, a national recreation area along the U.S.-Mexico border.

Big Bend & Guadalupe Mountains National Parks -- Among America's lesser-visited national parks, Big Bend and Guadalupe Mountains contain rugged mountain scenery the likes of which is found nowhere else in Texas, or even in surrounding states. There are spectacular and inspiring views from dizzying peaks, as well as hiking, rafting, and other outdoor activities. And Carlsbad Caverns National Park is just over the state line in New Mexico, an easy side trip for those visiting Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

The Panhandle Plains -- A mix of terrain and varied experiences awaits visitors to this vast, rugged region that occupies the northern reaches of Texas. Close to an entire day's drive from the coast, here you'll find small-town charm, good museums, fascinating historic sites, and one of the most outrageous steakhouses in Texas. The main cities -- just big towns, actually -- are Amarillo and Lubbock, each offering comfortable lodging and good eats. The region has plenty to do and see, with watersports on Lake Meredith National Recreation Area, and hiking, horseback riding, and some of the area's most spectacular scenery at Palo Duro Canyon State Park. This is also home to a monument to rock-'n'-roll pioneer Buddy Holly and a display of old Cadillacs, noses buried in the ground with their unmistakable fins pointed skyward.

Tips on Accommodations

Texas offers a variety of lodging options, from typical American chain motels to luxury hotels, historic hotels and bed-and-breakfast inns, and some pleasant and inexpensive mom-and-pop independent motels, cabins, and ranch-style resorts. To make your lodging an integral part of your Texas experience, we recommend choosing a historic property where available. There are quite a few historic bed-and-breakfast inns discussed in the listings, and, especially when you take into consideration the wonderful breakfasts prepared at most of them, the rates are fairly reasonable. Why spend $80 for a boring motel room and then another $10 to $15 for breakfast when for just a bit more you can instead sleep in a handsome inn, decorated with antiques, and be served a delightful home-cooked breakfast?

Staying Connected

Telephones

Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you're better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, the city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 and then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Cellphones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it'll work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to our nation's fragmented cellphone system). It's a good bet that your phone will work in major cities, but take a look at your wireless company's coverage map on its website before heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won't work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but beware: You'll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

If you're venturing deep into national parks, you may want to consider renting a satellite phone ("satphone"). It's different from a cellphone in that it connects to satellites rather than ground-based towers. Unfortunately, you'll pay at least $2 per minute to use the phone, and it works only where you can see the horizon (that is, usually not indoors). In North America, you can rent Iridium satellite phones from RoadPost (www.roadpost.com; tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665). InTouch USA offers a wider range of satphones but at higher rates.

If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won't work in many rural areas. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

Voice Over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- To find public Wi-Fi hot spots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots.

Without Your Own Computer -- Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like Kinko's (FedEx Kinko's), which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

Getting There

By Plane

Several airports have commercial service in Texas. The state's major airports are Dallas/Fort Worth International (DFW), El Paso International (ELP), George Bush Intercontinental (IAH) and William P. Hobby (HOU) in Houston, and San Antonio International (SAT).

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- International visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

By Car

If you're planning a road trip, it's a good idea to join the American Automobile Association (tel. 800/336-4357; www.aaa.com). In Texas, AAA regional headquarters is at 6555 N. State Hwy. 161, Irving (tel. 469/221-6006); there are also offices in many other cities, including Amarillo, Austin, Dallas, El Paso, Houston, and San Antonio. Members can get excellent maps, tour guides, and emergency road service; they'll also help you plan an itinerary. Members can get free emergency road service by calling AAA's emergency number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP [222-4357]).

More than 3,000 miles of interstate highways crisscross this huge state, connecting four major urban areas to each other and to cities in nearby states. Some relevant mileages: Houston to New Orleans, 350 miles; Houston to Phoenix, 1,180 miles; Dallas to Little Rock, 320 miles; Dallas to Kansas City, 550 miles; and Dallas to Denver, 880 miles.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) has several routes through Texas. The Sunset Limited has stops at Beaumont/Port Arthur, Houston, San Antonio, Del Rio, Sanderson, Alpine, and El Paso on its New Orleans-to-Los Angeles run; the Heartland Flyer travels from Oklahoma City to Fort Worth (where it connects with the Texas Eagle); and the Texas Eagle runs from Los Angeles to San Antonio (where you can connect with the Sunset Limited) and on to Chicago, with stops at El Paso, Austin, Dallas, and Fort Worth.

Texas: Gateway to Mexico

Many travelers believe that a vacation in western or southern Texas would not be complete without an excursion across the border into Mexico, to visit the picturesque shops, dicker for colorful pottery and inexpensive jewelry, and sample genuine Mexican food. In our experience, the shopping is especially enjoyable -- you really can get some bargains -- and the food is great, though we generally stay away from street vendors and patronize only the well-established restaurants. Mexican border towns welcome tourists and almost universally accept U.S. currency -- in fact, for many of these communities, tourism is their primary source of income.

However, remember that a trip across the border, even if you just walk across for the afternoon, is in fact a trip to a foreign country, and the laws of Mexico, not the United States, apply. In addition, these border towns are often hotbeds of drug smuggling, so stick to the main tourist areas, and don't let anyone try to convince you to carry anything across the border for them.

U.S. and Canadian citizens must carry a passport if they plan on crossing back into the U.S. A Mexican tourist card (available from Mexican officials at the border) is required for those going beyond the border towns into Mexico's interior, or those planning to stay in the border towns for more than 72 hours. Other foreign nationals will need a passport and the appropriate visas.

Travelers driving cars beyond the border towns will need vehicle permits, available from Mexican officials at the border, and those driving cars across the border for any distance at all should first buy insurance from a Mexican insurance company (short-term insurance is available at the border and at travel clubs such as AAA). If you're only planning to cross the border, visit a few shops, maybe sample the Mexican food, and then cross back into Texas, consider leaving your car on U.S. soil and walking. This will save the hassles of getting Mexican car insurance and the red tape if you are involved in an accident; of course, then you'll end up having to carry any purchases you make.

Warning: It is a felony to take any type of firearm or ammunition into Mexico (you could easily end up in jail and have your car confiscated). In addition, there are a number of regulations regarding taking pets across the border, plus fees, so it is usually best to board pets on the U.S. side.

When reentering the United States from Mexico, you will be stopped and questioned by U.S. Customs officials, and your car may be searched. U.S. citizens may bring back up to $800 in purchases duty-free every 30 days, including 1 liter of liquor, 100 cigars (except Cuban cigars, which are prohibited), and one carton of cigarettes. Duty fees are charged above those amounts, and Texas charges a tax of about $1 per liter on all alcoholic beverages. Items that may not be brought into the United States, or which require special permits, include most fruits and vegetables, plants, animals, and meat.

The above is just a brief summary of the complex laws related to traveling between the U.S. and Mexico. There are more details in the official state vacation guide available from the Texas Department of Transportation, and for complete information contact U.S. Customs (tel. 202/354-1000; www.cbp.gov) and the Mexican Government Tourism Office (tel. 800/446-3942 or 713/722-2581; mgtotx@ix.netcom.com). A good online source of information is www.mexonline.com.

Money

In general, Texas is not overly expensive, especially compared to destinations on the East and West coasts. You'll find a wide range of prices for lodging and dining, and admission to most attractions is less than $10 (it's sometimes free, especially in the smaller towns). Prices in Dallas, Houston, and Austin now place them firmly in line with those in large Southern cities such as Atlanta and Miami. Smaller cities and rural areas are much less expensive, while resort areas such as Corpus Christi can be a bit more expensive, especially during winter holidays. Traveler's checks and credit cards are accepted at almost all hotels, restaurants, shops, and attractions, plus many grocery stores; and ATMs are practically everywhere.

The most common bills are the $1 (a "buck"), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills (the last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases).

Coins come in seven denominations: 1¢ (1 cent, or a penny); 5¢ (5 cents, or a nickel); 10¢ (10 cents, or a dime); 25¢ (25 cents, or a quarter); 50¢ (50 cents, or a half dollar); the gold-colored Sacagawea coin, worth $1; and the rare silver dollar.

ATMs

Nationwide, the easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards & Debit Cards

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the United States: Visa (Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard (Eurocard in Europe), American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN.

Visitors from outside the U.S. should inquire whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad.

It's highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have one to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

ATM cards with major credit card backing, known as "debit cards," are now a commonly acceptable form of payment in most stores and restaurants. Debit cards draw money directly from your checking account. Some stores enable you to receive "cash back" on your debit-card purchases as well. The same is true at most U.S. post offices.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are widely accepted in the U.S., but foreign visitors should make sure that they're denominated in U.S. dollars; foreign-currency checks are often difficult to exchange.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. Most are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for cardholders; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee, for checks up to $1,500, at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

If you do choose to carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in the U.S. Thanks to provisions in the Americans with Disabilities Act, most public places are required to comply with disability-friendly regulations. Almost all public establishments (including hotels, restaurants, museums, and so on, but not including certain National Historic Landmarks), and at least some modes of public transportation, provide accessible entrances and other facilities for those with disabilities.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives persons who are visually impaired or permanently disabled (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service (NPS), including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges. The pass can be obtained only in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of a medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

New regulations issued by the Department of Homeland Security now require virtually every traveler entering the U.S. -- by air, land, or sea -- to show a passport. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov. International visitors can obtain a visa application at the same website.

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. International visitors to the U.S. can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children are required to present a passport when entering the United States at airports. More information on obtaining a passport for a minor can be found at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4-6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those age 17 and under and 66 and over must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult www.travel.state.gov/visa.) Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports, however. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-Passport by the symbol on the bottom center cover of your passport.) If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

Many international visitors traveling on visas to the U.S. will be photographed and fingerprinted on arrival at Customs in airports and on cruise ships in a program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those (mostly in Europe) that don't require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas."

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777), or by checking the "Consular Services" section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the "For New Zealanders" section of the website at http://newzealand.usembassy.gov.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Customs

What You Can Bring into the U.S. -- Every visitor 21 years of age and older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and such). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.cbp.gov).

What You Can Take Home from Texas --
Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Texas is one of only four states (the others are Missouri, Kansas, and Oklahoma) that criminalize homosexual activity, with an antisodomy law that dates to the late 1800s. That law is occasionally enforced (two Houston men were arrested in 1998, spent a day in jail, and paid fines), but a gay-rights group is working to have the law overturned.

Despite the official policy, most gay and lesbian travelers will find they are treated just like any other visitors to Texas, as Texans generally have a "live and let live" attitude. There are vibrant gay and lesbian communities in all of the larger cities, particularly Austin, Dallas, and Houston.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Among them are Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com); Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com); and Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com).

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

Getting Around

Texas is huge, so it's highly unlikely you'll want to try to see it all in one visit. Most visitors will explore either one or two cities or a relatively small section of the state. For those visiting major cities, it's easy to fly in, use public transportation, and then fly or take the train to the next city. However, those who plan to see a variety of Texas locales -- within reasonable distance -- will find that the most practical way to see Texas is by car.

By Plane

Overseas visitors can take advantage of the APEX (Advance Purchase Excursion) reductions offered by all major U.S. and European carriers. In addition, some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country.

By Car

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

Check out Breezenet.com, which offers domestic car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around. Also worth visiting are Orbitz, Hotwire.com, Travelocity, and Priceline.com, all of which offer competitive online car-rental rates.

Driving is an excellent way to see Texas in small chunks -- roads are well maintained and well marked, and a car is often the most economical and convenient way to get somewhere; in fact, if you plan to explore beyond the cities -- which we highly recommend -- it's practically the only way to get to some places.

Once you leave the interstates, there is a veritable spider web of roads that will take you just about anywhere you want to go, at least until you venture into the vast emptiness of the southwest plains. This seemingly uncharted area contains two of the gems of the state, however: Big Bend and Guadalupe Mountains national parks. These two places make it worth the effort of finding a way to get there.

Traffic in major cities, such as Houston, Dallas, and Austin, can be very congested and frustrating, especially at rush hour, and distances are often great. Be sure to leave extra time to get places. Away from the cities, you'll often find the roads to be practically deserted.

Because much of Texas has a relatively mild climate, snow and ice are not usually a problem. However, those traveling to or through Amarillo and other northern sections of the state in winter should check weather reports frequently -- being stranded by an ice storm is not unheard of.

Insurance -- If you hold a private auto insurance policy, you probably are covered for loss or damage to the rental car, and liability in case a passenger is injured. The credit card you used to rent the car also may provide some coverage.

Car-rental insurance probably does not cover liability if you caused the accident. Check your own auto insurance policy, the rental company policy, and your credit card coverage for the extent of coverage: Is your destination covered? Are other drivers covered? How much liability is covered if a passenger is injured? (If you rely on your credit card for coverage, you may want to bring a second credit card, as damages may be charged to your card and you may find yourself stranded with no money.)

Driving Rules -- Texas law requires all drivers to carry proof of insurance, as well as a valid driver's license. Safety belts must be worn by all front-seat occupants of cars and light trucks; children 16 and under must wear safety belts regardless of where they are in the vehicle; and children 3 and under or under 36 inches tall, regardless of where they're sitting, must be in approved child seats. The maximum speed limit on interstate highways is 70 mph; and the maximum on numbered non-interstates is 70 mph during daylight and 65 mph at night, unless otherwise posted. Motorcyclists are required to wear helmets, and radar detectors are legal.

Maps -- A good state highway map is available free at any state information center or by mail. Maps can also be purchased at bookstores, gas stations, and most supermarkets and discount stores.

Road Conditions -- Texas roads are among the best in the western United States, and the state's generally moderate weather keeps snow closures to a minimum. However, icy roads are fairly common in the northern sections of the state during winter, and hurricanes can cause flooding in late summer and early fall along the Gulf Coast. A recorded 24-hour hot line (tel. 800/452-9292) provides information on road conditions statewide, and information is also available online at www.dot.state.tx.us/travel/road_conditions.htm.

The "Drive Friendly" State -- For years the Texas Department of Transportation has been urging motorists to "drive friendly," and apparently many of them, especially in rural areas, have taken that message to heart. When you approach a vehicle from behind on a two-lane road, more often than not that vehicle will pull onto the shoulder, while maintaining speed, to let you pass without having to go into the oncoming lane. Fortunately, most Texas state highways have good, wide shoulders so there's little danger. We're not sure if this is technically legal or not, but everybody in rural Texas does it, including state troopers. However, road rage is not uncommon in Texas, and I usually think twice before sending an obscene gesture the way of a driver who has just cut me off -- especially if that driver's in a pickup toting a gun rack on the back.

By Train

More than a dozen towns and cities in Texas are linked by rail, with mostly daily service from Amtrak.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15 or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Bus travel is often the most economical form of public transit for short hops between U.S. cities, but it's certainly not an option for everyone (particularly when Amtrak, which is far more luxurious, offers similar rates). Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com for unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

If you're considering traveling to Texas with your pet, websites worth consulting include www.petswelcome.com, www.pettravel.com, and www.travelpets.com. Note that all Motel 6 motels accept pets. Throughout this book, we note lodgings that accept pets. Some properties require you to pay a fee or damage deposit in advance, and most insist they be notified at check-in that you have a pet.

Be aware, however, that national parks and monuments and other federal lands administered by the National Park Service are not pet-friendly. Dogs are generally prohibited on hiking trails, must always be leashed, and in some cases cannot be taken more than 100 feet from established roads. On the other hand, U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas, as well as many state parks, are pro-pet, allowing dogs on trails and just about everywhere except inside buildings. State parks require that dogs be leashed; regulations in national forests and BLM lands are generally looser.

Just as people need extra water in the desert, so do pets. We especially like those clever little no-spill pet water bowls available in pet stores (or online at www.vetvax.com). Also keep in mind that many trails are rough, and jagged rocks can cut the pads on your dog's feet. One final note: Never leave a dog or cat inside a closed car parked in the sun, which can literally be a killer in Texas. The car heats up more quickly than you'd think -- so don't do it, even for a minute.

Visitor Information

Contact the Texas Department of Transportation, Travel Division, P.O. Box 141009, Austin, TX 78714-1009 (tel. 800/888-8TEX [888-8839]; www.traveltex.com), for a free copy of the official state vacation guide, which includes a state map and describes attractions, activities, and lodgings throughout Texas. The Texas Department of Transportation also publishes the Texas Accommodations Guide, which is usually sent along with the official state vacation guide, or can be ordered separately at tel. 800/452-9292.

The nonprofit Historic Accommodations of Texas (tel. 800/428-0368; www.hat.org) offers a free directory describing well over 100 member bed-and-breakfasts, country inns, unique hotels, and guesthouses. You can also get lodging information from the Texas Hotel & Motel Association (tel. 512/474-2996; www.texaslodging.com).

The Texas Department of Transportation maintains a dozen excellent Texas Travel Information Centers around the state, offering free maps, brochures, and one-on-one travel counseling. Locations are as follows: Amarillo, I-40 East; Anthony, I-10 at the New Mexico state line; Austin, 112 E. 11th St., at the Capitol complex; Denison, U.S. 75 at the Oklahoma state line; Gainesville, I-35 at the Oklahoma state line; Harlingen, U.S. 77 at U.S. 83; Langtry, off U.S. 90 on Tex. Loop 25; Laredo, I-35 North at U.S. 83; Orange, I-10 at the Louisiana state line; Texarkana, I-30 at the Arkansas state line; Waskom, I-20 at the Louisiana state line; and Wichita Falls, I-44 at U.S. 277/281. The centers are open daily from 8am to 5pm except on January 1, Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, and December 24 and 25. For information, call tel. 800/452-9292.

When to Go

As would be expected in a state as big as Texas, climate varies, sometimes dramatically, by location; it can be snowing in one area of the state, such as Amarillo, while people are swimming at South Padre Island. High temperatures in the summer average in the 90s (30s Celsius) in most of the state, while average winter temperatures drop -- sometimes much lower than you might expect -- as you travel north. Southern Texas is known for its muggy summers, which make it feel hotter than it really is, and contrasts with the dryness of the West Texas deserts. The state's few mountainous areas have more extremes of temperatures, hitting the 80s and 90s (upper 20s and 30s Celsius) during the day, only to plummet into the 30s and 40s (single digits Celsius) at night. All areas of Texas get more sunshine than most other parts of the United States.

The beaches along the Gulf Coast are busiest in winter, but are seldom really crowded. But unless you're a college kid looking for some rowdy spring-break action, you should avoid all resort areas, including the beaches and national parks, during March and early April.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, you can find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world at http://events.frommers.com.

Calendar of Events

January

AT&T Cotton Bowl Classic (& Parade), Dallas. The annual college football bowl game, somewhat less prestigious than it once was, but still important in pigskin circles. Call tel. 214/634-7525. January 1.

River Walk Mud Festival, San Antonio. Each year, the horseshoe bend of the San Antonio River Walk is drained for maintenance, and San Antonians cheer up by electing a king and queen to reign over such events as Mud Stunts Day and the Mud Pie Ball. Call tel. 210/227-4262. Mid-January.

Super Bull, Amarillo. Don't come expecting football -- this is a bull-riding event at the Amarillo Civic Center. Call tel. 800/692-1338 or 806/376-7767. Mid-January.

Southwestern Exposition and Livestock Show and Rodeo, Fort Worth. Fort Worth's famous rodeo and livestock show is the nation's oldest, drawing nearly a million people to Will Rogers Memorial Center for 30 rodeo performances. It's kicked off by the All-Western Parade, the biggest horse-drawn parade in the world. Call tel. 817/877-2400. Mid-January to early February.

February

Stock Show and Rodeo, San Antonio. San Antonio hosts more than 2 weeks of rodeo events, livestock judging, country-and-western bands, and carnivals at the AT&T Center. Call tel. 210/225-5851. Early February.

Mardi Gras, Galveston. The city's biggest party of the year, with parades, masked balls, and a live-entertainment district around the Strand. Call tel. 888/425-4753. Late February to early March.

March

Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, Houston. Billed as the largest event of its kind, the rodeo includes all the usual events like bull riding and calf roping, plus performances by famous country-and-western artists. A parade downtown kicks off the celebration. Call tel. 713/791-9000. March 1 to March 20.

South by Southwest, Austin. The Austin Music Awards kick off this huge conference, with hundreds of concerts at more than two dozen city venues. Keynote speakers have included Johnny Cash. Call tel. 512/467-7979. Mid-March (during spring break at the University of Texas).

Dyeing o' the River Green and Pub Crawl, San Antonio. Are leprechauns responsible for turning the San Antonio River into the green River Shannon? Irish dance and music fill the Arneson River Theatre from the afternoon on. Call tel. 210/227-4262. March 17.

April

Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival, Austin. Book a month in advance for the cooking demonstrations; beer, wine, and food tastings; and celebrity chef dinners. For the food fair, just turn up hungry. Call tel. 512/329-0770. First weekend after Easter.

San Jacinto Festival and Texas History Day, West Columbia. Highlights include a parade, talent show, arts and crafts show, and barbecue cook-off. The talent show, where you never know what's going to happen next, is the fun part. Call tel. 800/938-4853 or 979/265-2508. Mid-April.

International Festival, Houston. This festival highlights the culture, food, music, and heritage of a different country every year. Call tel. 713/926-6368. Last 2 weekends in April.

Fiesta San Antonio, San Antonio. What started as a modest marking of Texas's independence more than 100 years ago is now a huge event, with an elaborately costumed royal court presiding over 10 days of revelry: parades, balls, food fests, sporting events, concerts, and art shows all over town. Call tel. 877/SA-FIESTA (723-4378) or 210/227-5191. Mid- to late April.

May

Art Car Parade and Ball, Houston. The parade of decorated cars is marvelous and hilarious and attracts participants from around the country. The ball -- held in a large downtown parking garage -- is always a spirited event. Call tel. 713/926-6368. Second weekend in May.

Tejano Conjunto Festival, San Antonio. This festival celebrates the lively and unique blend of Mexican and German music born in South Texas. The best conjunto musicians perform at the largest event of its kind in the world. Call tel. 210/271-3151. Mid-May.

Return of the Chili Queens, San Antonio. An annual tribute to chili, with music, dancing, crafts demonstrations, and, of course, chili aplenty. Bring the Tums. Call tel. 210/207-8600. Memorial Day weekend.

June

American Institute of Architects Sandcastle Competition, Galveston. More than 80 architectural and engineering firms from around the state build sand castles and sand sculptures, taking this pastime to new heights. Call tel. 713/520-0155. Early June.

Juneteenth Festival, statewide. News of the Emancipation Proclamation didn't reach Texas until June 19, 1865 -- nearly 3 years after Lincoln signed it. This day is celebrated with blues, jazz, and gospel music, family reunions, and a variety of events. Houston has a major celebration; call tel. 713/284-8352 for more information. Weekend nearest June 19.

July

Gran Fiesta de Fort Worth, Fort Worth. An outdoor festival celebrating Texas's Hispanic culture with Latin music, art, food, and parades. Call tel. 214/855-1881. Third week in July.

Great Texas Mosquito Festival, Clute. A joyous celebration to divert everyone from the annoying pest. Call tel. 800/938-4853 or 979/265-2508. Late July.

Miss Texas USA Pageant, Lubbock. This annual beauty contest takes place at Lubbock Municipal Coliseum and area hotels. Call tel. 800/692-4035 or 806/747-5232. Last week in July.

August

Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival, Austin. The largest hot-sauce contest in the world features more than 300 salsa entries, judged by celebrity chefs and food editors. The music at this super party is hot, too. Call tel. 512/454-5766. Last Sunday in August.

September

Marfa Lights Festival, Marfa. Celebration of the lights that inexplicably appear on the horizon just east of town. Expect street dances, live music, parades, and lots of food. Call tel. 800/650-9696 or 915/729-4942. Labor Day weekend.

Grapefest, Fort Worth. Yes, Texas makes wine -- some of it quite good. It flows freely at this, one of the country's biggest wine festivals. There's also live music and other entertainment. Call tel. 817/410-3185. Early September.

Fiestas Patrias, Houston. One of the largest community-sponsored parades in the Southwest celebrating Mexico's independence from Spain. Houston's several ballet folklórico troupes twirl their way through downtown streets in a pageant of color and traditional Mexican music. Call tel. 713/926-2636. Mid-September (around the 16th).

Pioneer Days, Fort Worth. A festival commemorating Fort Worth's early pioneer and cattle rancher heritage with country music, rodeos, and Wild West shows. Call tel. 817/336-8791 or 625-7005. Mid-September.

Bayfest!, Corpus Christi. This huge festival fills Shoreline Drive from I-37 down to Bayfront Park with music, games, food, arts and crafts, and fireworks over the bay. Call tel. 800/678-6232 or 361/881-1888. Late September.

State Fair of Texas, Dallas. The nation's biggest state fair, held at the fairgrounds built in 1936 in grand Art Deco style. Call tel. 214/565-9931. Late September to third week of October.

October

Commemorative Air Force Annual AIRSHO, Midland. Come see vintage aircraft on display and strutting their stuff in flight. Call tel. 800/624-6435 or 915/683-3381. First weekend in October.

Wings over Houston Airshow, Houston. This thrilling event usually features displays of current military aircraft and performances of aerial acrobatics. Call tel. 281/531-9461. Mid-October.

Texas Jazz Festival, Corpus Christi. This free and popular festival attracts hundreds of big-name musicians from across the United States. Call tel. 800/678-6232 or 361/881-1888. Mid- to late October.

Halloween, Austin. One hundred thousand costumed revelers take over 7 blocks of historic 6th Street. Call tel. 800/926-2282. October 31.

November

South Padre Island Kite Festival, South Padre Island. What could be more fun than flying a kite above blue waters? Or prettier to watch? For all those still young at heart. Call tel. 800/678-6232 or 361/881-1888. Early November.

Lighting Ceremony and River Walk Holiday Parade, San Antonio. Trees and bridges along the river are illuminated by some 80,000 lights, and Santa Claus arrives on a boat during this floating river parade. Call tel. 210/227-4262. Friday after Thanksgiving.

December

Christmas in the Stockyards, Fort Worth. Cowtown's classic Old West corner is lit up even more than usual for holiday shopping and caroling with a Texas accent. Call tel. 817/626-7921. Throughout December.

Fiestas Navideñas, San Antonio. The Mexican market hosts piñata parties, a blessing of the animals, and surprise visits from Pancho Claus. Call tel. 210/207-8600. Weekends in December.

Zilker Park Tree Lighting, Austin. The lighting of a magnificent 165-foot tree is followed by the Trail of Lights, a mile-long display of life-size holiday scenes. Call tel. 512/499-6700. Sundays through December 24.

Harbor Lights Celebration, Corpus Christi. The harbor is decked out for the holidays. There's an illuminated boat parade, fireworks, entertainment, and a visit from Santa Claus. Call tel. 800/678-6232 or 361/881-1888. First weekend in December.

Dickens on the Strand, Galveston. This street party in this city's historic district features revelers dressed up in Victorian costume, parades, street vendors, and lots of entertainment. Call tel. 409/765-7834. First weekend in December.

Las Posadas, San Antonio. Children carrying candles lead a procession along the river, reenacting the search for lodging in a moving multifaith rendition of the Christmas story. Call tel. 210/224-6163. Second Sunday in December.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

While carnivorous Texans are famous for their cattle raising, vegetarian options, although perhaps not as prevalent as in the most progressive states, are available in all large cities, and are particularly conspicuous in Austin, the largest college town in Texas and the state's most progressive-leaning city (ranked by GoVeg.com as America's eighth-most-vegetarian-friendly large city, it is home to the ever-growing chain Whole Foods). Some helpful websites include www.vegetarianusa.com/city/Texas.html, which includes a list of health food stores and vegetarian restaurants; www.ecomall.com/vegi/tex.htm, which contains a smattering of restaurants across the state; and the general sites VegDining.com and VegCooking.com.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many Texas hotels and motels offer discounts to seniors (especially if you're carrying an AARP card), and an increasing number of restaurants, attractions, and public transportation systems do so as well.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), often get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service (NPS) -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Escorted & Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Gray Line Tours (tel. 800/803-5073; www.grayline.com), one of the largest tour operators in the world, organizes a number of escorted bus trips, package tours, and day trips in Dallas, Fort Worth, Austin, Houston/Galveston, San Antonio, and South Padre Island -- though it's most active in Dallas and Fort Worth.

Sí Texas Tours, in Bandera, Texas (tel. 888/748-3927 or 830/460-4565; www.sitexastours.com), offers escorted tours to San Antonio, the Texas Hill Country, and South Texas.

At InfoHub (www.infohub.com/TRAVEL/SIT/sit_pages/Texas.html), you'll find links to a number of other themed trips (such as cycling the Hill Country).

Although escorted tours require big deposits and predetermined hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Special-Interest Trips

Adventure Trips -- With a state as huge as Texas, you'd expect lots of outdoor adventures, and although there are lots of opportunities for outdoor activities in Texas, the state hasn't quite caught on with most of the major national adventure-travel companies. For adventure travel to Texas, check out GORPtravel (tel. 877/440-GORP [440-4677] or 303/516-1153; http://gorptravel.away.com), which offers several Texas trips, ranging from rafting or canoeing the Rio Grande to Old West dude ranch vacations, where you get to play cowboy when you're not busy fishing, swimming, or just loafing. Another good national company that offers bicycling tours, walking tours, and multisport adventures in Texas is Planet Earth Adventures (tel. 800/923-4453; www.planetearthadventures.com). Multiactivity adventures in Texas are also available from Tauck World Discovery (tel. 800/788-7885 or 203/221-6891; www.tauck.com), which features a working-ranch trip. The Audubon Society (tel. 800/967-7425; www.audubon.org) occasionally offers what it calls "nature odysseys" in Texas, with birding destinations such as Big Bend National Park.

You can obtain information on the state's outfitters, including numerous hunting and fishing guides, from the Texas Outfitters and Guides Association, P.O. Box 33141, Kerrville, TX 78029-3141 (tel. 830/238-4207).

Camping & Outdoors -- Texas is dotted with lakes and has numerous rivers, almost 700 miles of Gulf Coast, plenty of forestlands, and several mountain ranges. Its two national parks offer plentiful hiking opportunities, and there are also scenic canyons, spectacular caves, and vast areas of rugged desert.

The official state vacation guide is a good source of information for those planning outdoor recreation in the state. Information on fishing, hunting, and the numerous state parks in Texas is available from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (tel. 800/792-1112 or 512/389-8950; www.tpwd.state.tx.us). Reservations for camping at state parks can be made through the department's website or by calling tel. 512/389-8900. General outdoor recreation information is also online at www.texasoutside.com.

Both RV and tent campers will find plenty of campsites throughout Texas, although tent campers will have fewer choices, especially along the Gulf Coast where numerous RV parks cater to "Winter Texans" -- usually retired residents of northern states and Canada who spend winters in the sunny warmth of Texas and often arrive in plush motor homes or large trailers. The Texas Association of Campground Owners (tel. 800/657-6555 or 512/459-8226; www.texascampgrounds.com) offers a free booklet describing commercial campgrounds and RV parks in Texas and New Mexico. It's a generally good guide, with fairly complete information and directions, but, unfortunately, it does not include rates. However, it does include a "Texas Saver Card," for discounts of 10% or 15% at many facilities.

Food & Wine Trips -- Texas Wine Tours (tel. 877/839-9463; www.texas-wine-tours.com) takes trips to 14 Hill Country wineries, including stops in Fredericksburg and occasional events in places such as Luckenbach. Wine tours in white stretch limos are the focus of Wine Tours of Texas (tel. 877/693-0800 or 512/458-5466; www.winetoursoftexas.com).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Much of Texas's eco-tourism activities are still confined to do-it-yourself trips to state and national parks (with Big Bend the number-one attraction). However, birding is of growing interest, particularly along the Gulf Coast and in other parts of South Texas, and some travel operators now offer birding trips.

Texas Parks and Wildlife devotes part of its literature and website to "Great Texas Wildlife Trails" (www.tpwd.state.tx.us/huntwild/wild/wildlife_trails) that include birding trails. Additionally, the World Birding Center (www.worldbirdingcenter.org) is located in the lower Rio Grande Valley, and it offers a wealth of information on birding events, tours, and sites, such as the 50-acre South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center (tel. 956/761-3005). Another resource is www.traveltex.com, where you can search under "Activities" for a mixed bag of "nature & outdoors" events, tours, and activities.