This offshoot of a growing northern Berkshire chainlet has the best of intentions: Use of less-toxic paints and recycled materials in construction, and local and seasonal ingredients in the kitchen. Reality insists that the menu sometimes includes items imported considerable distance from the immediate region. That doesn't alter the fact that the "field salad" of Garrotxa cheese, Serrano ham, and roasted almonds -- all ingredients from Spain -- is a tasty start, along with moist, crusty bread dipped in fruity olive oil (European in origin as well). Most entrees are sizeable, and on our last visit, the cod fritters, crisp outer shells enclosing a creamy brandade with a drizzle of aioli, were as good as the dish can be. Not every dish was a homerun like that one, but all were solidly tasty.