Here on Lenox's restaurant row, the post-preppie crowd of regulars and weekend refugees from the city is attired in country cashmere and tweed, a taste no doubt honed at campuses of the Ivy League and Seven Sisters. The waitresses display a professionalism rarely experienced in these hills, bringing satisfying starters -- carpaccio, grilled calamari, and the like -- followed by superior renditions of osso buco con risotto, bistecca alla Fiorentina and six to eight pastas, such as rabbit tagliatelle. (Gluten free pastas are available). Dine out on the handsome verandah in warmer months. Be aware that the restaurant often closes from January to spring; call ahead.