Find this down an alley off Main Street, a few yards east of the Red Lion Inn, housed in what looks like a shed leaned against a larger building. Yellow and cream walls with pictures of French waiters constitute most of the decor. In high season, a line of hungry patrons often forms outside. In winter, walk right in and start with a cup of hot mulled cider to counter the drafts. The kitchen's aptitude has wavered over its decade of existence but has rarely been less than satisfactory, and often considerably better -- and the trend has been up of late. Start with the peppery, woodsy mushroom soup or the "chowdah," where the clam chunks outnumber the potatoes. More venturesome tastes might prefer the escargot potpie or the vegetable dumplings with spicy soy vinaigrette. Continue, perhaps, with goat-cheese ravioli, sautéed gnocchi with tomatoes and pesto, coq au vin, or phyllo-wrapped organic salmon filet.