Planning a trip to The Copper Canyon
The principal airports for the region are Los Mochis and Chihuahua, the two terminal points of the railroad. Connecting flights are available out of both cities, which makes entry into the region fairly easy. But once you arrive, you have to take precautions. Los Mochis is in the state of Sinaloa, home to two violent drug cartels. Chihuahua is the capital of the most violent state in the country, home to one cartel, and disputed territory in the drug wars. Carjackings are not uncommon in both places, making it much safer to fly into this area and move around town by taxi and in daylight. Taking the train through the Copper Canyon is still relatively safe, but getting off and hiking through the area is now a bit more iffy.
It used to be the case that going in high season meant planning an itinerary well in advance, including reserving both train tickets and hotel rooms. Now, with the decrease in travel to the region, limited hotel space is less of a problem. You can make arrangements on your own or go through a travel agent or tour operator. It's possible to buy train tickets as you need them and make last-minute reservations or no reservations at all. There is a small risk that you might run into a large group that has taken all the hotel rooms, but in most locations now, somebody usually has an inexpensive cabin for rent. The most plentiful lodging is to be found in Creel.
Troubled Times In Chihuahua & Sinaloa
Conflicts between drug gangs, and the Mexican government's attempts to eradicate them, have led to increased violence in parts of the states of Chihuahua and Sinaloa. The violence has taken the form of killings, kidnappings, and carjackings. The U.S. Department of State (www.travel.state.gov) has issued a travel warning for the Mexican border area that specifically mentions Ciudad Juárez, Chihuahua City, and the Copper Canyon. It doesn't say not to go to the area, but it urges travelers to practice caution and avoid traveling at night. The Mexican government has sent in the military to aid federal and local police. Checkpoints can now be found on many area roads. If you decide to go to the Copper Canyon, be prepared to find added security in and around the cities and on the highways. Don't travel in a way that will make you a target. That means don't drive a personal vehicle, especially a pickup or SUV, which are highly desired by gangs, and don't travel alone into areas of the canyon that are too far off the beaten path.
The canyon lands are prime growing areas for marijuana. This didn't used to be a source of anxiety for tour operators. And travelers driving or hiking through the canyons didn't used to be a concern for the local growers. But violence in the region has escalated, there have been shootings in some of the small towns, and everyone's nerves are on edge. Travelers through the canyon should consider limiting their outings to areas that are seen primarily as tourist destinations.
Going Solo On Foot: Not A Good Idea
If you're planning to hike in the Copper Canyon, it's a good idea to have company, especially someone who knows the area and speaks Spanish. To be on the safe side, don't go too far from the main parts of the canyon.
When to Go
There are two high seasons for the Sierra: from mid-October to mid-November and March through April. These months are the most popular because of the likelihood of moderate temperatures -- but even in these months, temperatures in the bottom of the canyon will be warm. Most canyon visitors stay up in the rim country. To avoid the crowds and get cheaper prices, I suggest going in August or September (the rainy season). During that time, barring drought, you'll find occasional afternoon thundershowers (very pretty in the canyon land), green vegetation, flowing water, and comfortable temperatures up along the rim. In the winter, temperatures at the bottom of the canyons are actually moderate. Avoid the Sierra from late April through June. This is the driest part of the year, with chronic water shortages in many of the towns and hotels; the vegetation is brown, and the canyons can be hazy.
Getting Around
The Train
First-class service between Chihuahua and Los Mochis operates daily in both directions. Second-class trains also run daily. They stop more frequently than the first-class trains and are slower. First-class service has undergone major improvements. The passenger cars have been revamped, with clean bathrooms that work and improved seating and windows. (They already were air-conditioned in summer and heated in winter.) In addition, the train makes fewer stops than before. The owner, Ferromex (www.ferromex.com.mx), invested heavily in improving the tracks, making delays due to landslides less frequent. It has also spruced up some of the local stations.
Which Direction Should I Travel? -- For sightseeing, Los Mochis, the western terminus, is the better starting place: The most scenic part of the 15- to 16-hour journey comes between El Fuerte and Bahuichivo/Cerocahui, which you are guaranteed to see in daylight if you come from Los Mochis. The train that starts in Chihuahua often gets to this area in darkness. This chapter lists the stops in order from Los Mochis to Chihuahua.
The train makes 12 stops. The schedule is a word problem that would gratify any high school algebra teacher: Two trains depart from opposite ends of the line (Chihuahua and Los Mochis) at the same time (6am) to meet at point x.
Actual times vary. The locals at each stop are well attuned to train times, so it's good to ask them. The stops are short except at El Divisadero, where you have 20 minutes to get out and walk down the steps to the overlook for a spectacular panorama of the canyon, and perhaps time to buy a trinket or a taco from one of the many vendors.
DELAYS -- Travelers may have to contend with delays because of landslides, minor derailments, or maintenance projects. Traveling in this region requires some flexibility and patience. In case of a major service interruption, you can travel on a highway that parallels the railway from Chihuahua as far as Cerocahui, but the final stretch from Cerocahui to El Fuerte is not much of an option because it requires four-wheel-drive.
BUYING A TICKET -- The train offers no rail pass; you must buy a ticket for a particular day, point of departure, and destination. This is not usually a problem during the off season. You can buy a ticket for the first leg of your trip when you get to Los Mochis or Chihuahua, and then buy the rest each time you board the train. You're not going to have a guaranteed seat, but there's usually abundant seating during this part of the year. If you have an itinerary, you'll have guaranteed seating throughout the trip. You may not get to choose which seat, but that's a minor issue. Should you deviate from your itinerary, you can buy a new ticket at the local station or aboard the train. The cost of a ticket for the entire trip one-way is 1,981 pesos.
To reserve tickets ahead of time, call the railway directly (tel. 888/484-1623 in the U.S. and Canada, or 614/436-7212). A few days before your trip, you will need to call again to reconfirm your reservations. Then you can buy the tickets at the station the morning of your departure with cash or credit card (MasterCard or Visa). For more information, see www.chepe.com.mx. If you actually want to purchase tickets ahead of time, you can do so from a local travel agency in Chihuahua or Los Mochis. To start out in Chihuahua, contact Turismo al Mar (tel. 614/410-9232 or 614/416-5950); from Los Mochis, contact Viajes Araceli (tel. 668/815-5780; fax 668/815-8787; ventasaracely@viajearacely.com) or Viajes Flamingo (tel. 668/812-1613; fax 668/812-0046; www.mexicoscoppercanyon.com). Travel agencies outside of Mexico sell tickets only as part of a package that includes transportation to the region and hotel accommodations. A wide variety of packages and custom trips are available. Look into these carefully before you book.
Visitor Information
Lodging
If you spend a night at any spot en route, you'll have roughly 24 hours to explore, unless you're heading back in the direction from which you came. Drivers from all canyon hotels pick up guests from the train station; if you don't have a reservation, ask a driver about room availability. Rates for hotels in both of these towns usually include meals. The number of rooms is limited, and with groups of 40 or 50 people going through the Sierra, a hotel can be empty one day and full the next. When hotels are full, you'll notice a decline in service in the dining room, or you'll have to wait in line at the buffet even if you're not part of the group. Overbooking rooms also seems to be a problem with some of the large hotels, though it's not common enough that you should worry about it. In Creel, you find the greatest variety of accommodations and restaurants. This is also where most of the economical hotels are.
Climate
Los Mochis and El Fuerte are warm year-round. Chihuahua can be warm in summer, windy at almost any time, and freezing in winter. The canyon rim may experience freezes from November through March; the bottom of the canyon may occasionally get cool enough for a sweater. In the other half of the year, it's hot below and cool above.
Money-Changing: Be Prepared
Be sure to start the journey with adequate funds, because exchanging money outside of Creel is almost impossible; even credit cards are good only at the expensive hotels. I won't use a credit card at some of the hotels listed in this chapter because they use radio communication to the main office to confirm a card -- hardly a secure system.
Escorted & Package Tours
Choosing A Package Or Tour Operator
A number of tour operators and packagers offer trips to the Copper Canyon. You can purchase your package through a travel agency; those that do frequent business with Copper Canyon trips have better knowledge of what's out there. Keep in mind that the travel agent may try to steer you toward one package over another because it pays a higher commission. The industry breaks down into the following categories:
Bus Tours -- Some outfits run buses from El Paso to Chihuahua or Tucson to Los Mochis, and then put their customers on the train. The usual length of stay in the Sierra is 2 nights before returning by bus to the U.S. These tours involve a lot of sitting on a bus or train, but they are the least expensive.
Train Tours -- Sierra Madre Express has stopped running trains into the Copper Canyon from Tucson, Arizona, probably as a result of the economic downturn -- perhaps, too, because of the bad press that Chihuahua is getting.
Standard Packages -- This option merely bundles airfare, train tickets, and lodging. Hotels in the canyon send drivers to meet the train, so getting to your hotel is not hard once you're in the canyon. With these tours, you can have more time in the canyon, but once you're there, it's up to you to line up activities.
Custom Tour Operators -- These outfits sell fixed package tours through travel agents only because it simplifies the agent's job. If you eliminate the middle person and call any of the outfits directly, you might be able to arrange a custom trip. Travel through these companies generally allows you more time in the canyon and a better experience. Some assemble small groups with a guide; some allow you to travel by yourself and supply you with contacts in different locations. As the number of people visiting the Sierra increases, these companies are taking people deeper into the mountains to get away from the effects of mass tourism. Two reliable operators are California Native, 6701 W. 87th Place, Los Angeles, CA 90045 (tel. 800/926-1140 in the U.S.; www.calnative.com), and Native Trails, 613 Querétaro, El Paso, TX 79912-2210 (tel. 800/884-3107 in the U.S.; www.nativetrails.com).