Zagora
The Zagora of today is very much a French creation, with few architectural traces left of the ancient ksour that in centuries past would deal with the passing caravan trade. It's the major administrative center of the Dra Valley, but for travelers it's pretty much a one-road town, and if you don't need to take advantage of the town's services, then you're very likely to drive straight through. The hassle from touts and guides here used to be intolerable, and although you will still receive many inquiries about your desert plans if you hang around for any length of time, the serious hassling seems to now be the domain of the desperate touts farther south in M'hamid. Some maps still indicate the tar road ending in Zagora -- the reason why the French set up headquarters here rather than the then-bigger village of Amezrou -- but it now continues over a low concrete runway across the Oued Dra to link up with Amezrou and continue for another 98km (61 miles) south to M'hamid, where it abruptly ends. The arches at the southern end of Zagora were demolished in the process, and along with them the famous sign depicting TOMBOUCTOU À 52 JOURS (Timbuktu in 52 days) -- by camel -- although a replica has been painted at the new junction with the road west to Foum Zguid.
If you're around on Wednesday or Sunday, the marketplace in the center of town comes alive with the largest souk south of Ouarzazate. This is a true village market with local produce (dates especially), livestock, everyday hardware, and some handicrafts.
The Zagora of today is very much a French creation, with few architectural traces left of the ancient ksour that in centuries past would deal with the passing caravan trade. It's the major administrative center of the Dra Valley, but for travelers it's pretty much a one-road town, and if you don't need to take advantage of the town's services, then you're very likely to drive straight through. The hassle from touts and guides here used to be intolerable, and although you will still receive many inquiries about your desert plans if you hang around for any length of time, the serious hassling seems to now be the domain of the desperate touts farther south in M'hamid. Some maps still indicate the tar road ending in Zagora -- the reason why the French set up headquarters here rather than the then-bigger village of Amezrou -- but it now continues over a low concrete runway across the Oued Dra to link up with Amezrou and continue for another 98km (61 miles) south to M'hamid, where it abruptly ends. The arches at the southern end of Zagora were demolished in the process, and along with them the famous sign depicting TOMBOUCTOU À 52 JOURS (Timbuktu in 52 days) -- by camel -- although a replica has been painted at the new junction with the road west to Foum Zguid.
If you're around on Wednesday or Sunday, the marketplace in the center of town comes alive with the largest souk south of Ouarzazate. This is a true village market with local produce (dates especially), livestock, everyday hardware, and some handicrafts.
Details
Bookstore
Available as paperback
and as e-book.
