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The Captain Lord is one of the most architecturally distinguished inns in Maine, housed in a pale-yellow Federal-style home on a shady lawn above the river. This is the genuine article, with grandfather clocks, Chippendale highboys, and a broad brick fireplace. There’s also a conference room with a sofa and TV. Up the elliptical staircase are the rooms, furnished in splendid antiques and gas fireplaces. Among the best: the Excelsior, a large corner room with a massive four-poster bed, love seat, and a two-person Jacuzzi; the Hesper, with a big stained-glass window in the bathroom; and the Merchant, a spacious first-floor suite that pampers you with a large Jacuzzi and two fireplaces. Four rooms are in the Garden House annex, a gray clapboard home behind the main inn, where guests are served breakfast at a long table in the colonial-style kitchen; this building is less opulent but still well appointed.