Planning a trip to The Netherlands

Tips for Families

Some of the more expensive hotels in this region offer kids' suites, and you might even find that a suite is cheaper than booking two rooms. Many hotels allow children up to a certain age to sleep free or for a reduced rate in their parent's room, and may provide an extra bed. Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, bottle warmer, and car seat (small children are not allowed to ride in the front seat).

As for keeping the children amused, what child wouldn't be happy exploring the castles that are scattered across the Benelux landscapes? Give your youngsters a head start with a short rundown on the people who constructed these fascinating structures and what happened within their walls, and you'll soon find their imaginations running wild. In the cities, small towns, and villages, the colorful pageantry of past centuries as depicted in numerous festivals will surely delight the younger set. In Holland, watch faces light up at the Lilliputian "Holland in a Nutshell" miniatures at Madurodam. And look for wildlife centers in all three countries. Virtually every sightseeing attraction admits children at half price, and many offer family-ticket discounts.

Money

Admittedly, the three Benelux countries are by no means inexpensive. Clearly, whether you agree with this statement will depend on how much you can bring to bear -- or bear to bring -- in the way of financial resources. If you're used to the prices in New York and London, those in Amsterdam, Brussels, and Luxembourg City likely won't seem too out of whack. But opportunities for scoring genuine bargains run a thin gamut from few and far between to nonexistent. In your favor is that the natives themselves display a reluctance to part unnecessarily with a euro. A sound rule of thumb is that if you lodge, dine, and entertain yourself in the same places where "ordinary" locals do, you can limit the financial damage.

Currency

The euro (€) is the currency in Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg. There are 100 euro cents to each euro. Eight euro coins are in circulation: 0.01€, 0.02€, 0.05€, 0.10€, 0.20€, 0.50€ (1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 euro cents, respectively), 1€, and 2€. The seven euro notes are: 5€, 10€, 20€, 50€, 100€, 200€, and 500€ -- the last two notes listed won't be of much practical use unless you're into money laundering or some other nefarious activity.

Currency Exchange

The currency-exchange offices at the main rail stations in Brussels, Amsterdam, and Luxembourg City offer fair rates for cash and traveler's checks, as do banks, offices of Travelex in Belgium and Luxembourg; GWK Travelex in Holland; and VVV tourist information offices in Holland. Exchange rates at currency-exchange offices at each country's national airport are lousy. Other currency-exchange offices throughout the Benelux countries, which are open regular hours plus evenings and weekends, may charge a low commission, or none at all, but give a low rate of exchange. Hotels should be avoided as a currency-exchange resource unless there's no alternative.

The Travelex and GWK Travelex offices can arrange money transfers through Western Union.

ATMs

ATMs are widespread in Benelux cities and towns, and you can even find them in some villages. They accept bank cards and credit cards linked to the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks. Use the ATMs at Brussels, Amsterdam, and Luxembourg City airports to avoid the bad deals from the airport's currency-exchange offices.

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. If you have a five- or six-digit PIN, also be sure to obtain a four-digit number from your bank to use in the Benelux. Some cards with five- or six-digit PINs might work, but it depends on what bank you use. The best advice is to get a four-digit number from your bank.

Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Visa and MasterCard (also known as EuroCard in Europe) are the most widely used cards in the Benelux lands. American Express is often accepted, mostly in the middle- and upper-bracket category. Diners Club is not as commonly accepted as American Express. Credit cards are not as commonly accepted as they are in the United States and Britain. Many restaurants and stores, and some hotels, don't accept them at all, and others add a 5% charge for card payment. They are almost universally accepted by gas stations, and for travel by plane, train, and even taxi (not all taxis). The smaller the business, the less likely it is to accept credit cards.

Traveler's Checks

These days, traveler's checks are less necessary because the Benelux countries have plenty of 24-hour ATMs. However, you will be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own, so if you're going to withdraw money every day, you might be better off with traveler's checks, which will be replaced if lost or stolen. You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank, and from American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard.

Euro traveler's checks are accepted at locations where dollar and pound traveler's checks may not be, but you'll have to convert any unused ones or keep them for a future trip to a euro-zone country.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks at a $9.95 fee for sums up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The Dutch take the environment seriously. Living in a small country that's so heavily populated that they need to recover land from the sea, they must. More than 60% of household waste is sorted, collected, and recycled. As a visitor, you are expected to play your part and not to just toss stuff without first checking if it's recyclable or reusable. In 2007, a wind farm in the North Sea began generating 108 megawatts of power from 36 wind turbines, enough to supply 100,000 homes. A 120-megawatt offshore wind farm is under construction. By 2010 Holland aims to produce 9% of its electricity from renewable resources.

All those bicycles you see in the Benelux take plenty of cars off the street. Anyone who's not riding a bike is likely to be walking, or getting around by tram. Visitors are encouraged to do likewise. There are many places where you can rent bikes, and the city's public transportation is both easy to use and efficient. This commitment to going by bicycle applies absolutely everywhere in Holland, and to all age groups.

Belgium's Dutch-speaking Flanders region comes close to sharing the Dutch commitment to getting around by bike, particularly in areas close to the Dutch border and along the coast. In much of francophone Belgium and in Luxembourg, the hilly terrain makes the bicycle not an ideal mode of transportation, though it is used enthusiastically for sport and fitness.

Green living extends to what people eat. Restaurants in Amsterdam such as Bolhoed, Golden Temple, and De Kas; Shanti in Brussels; and Lotus in Bruges use "bio" and vegan products and ingredients in the meals they serve. Many hotels have signed up to the sustainable operations agreements, which provide for becoming more energy efficient in all areas of operation, conserving water, decreasing the amount of unsorted waste, and more.

Tips for Women Travelers

In Amsterdam, it's safe for groups of women to go around in the city's famed (or notorious) Red Light District -- always supposing they can stomach seeing other women serving purely as sex objects -- but a young woman on her own, particularly after dark, could be subject to at least verbal harassment, and misrepresentation as a "working girl." All other red light zones in Benelux cities -- and especially those in Brussels and Antwerp -- are best avoided by women.

Public transportation in most Benelux towns and cities is usually busy even late at night, so you generally won't have to worry about being alone in a bus, tram, or Metro train. If you feel nervous, sit close to the driver whenever possible.

Holland has long enjoyed a relaxed attitude to exposing nontrivial amounts of the undraped female form -- a recent government DVD, part of a now-mandatory "education" for would-be migrants, portrays going topless at the beach as an integral part of Dutch culture. Far fewer women are actually going without at the beach or in the park these days, and those who do are less likely to be younger women and teens. Catholic Belgium and Luxembourg always were less relaxed about this, and remain so.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport for a visit of less than 3 months to Holland. If you're a citizen of another country, be sure to check the travel regulations before you leave.

How to Obtain a Passport -- The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office, or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport for a visit to a Benelux country of less than 3 months. If you're a citizen of another country, be sure to check the travel regulations before you leave. You can get these in English from: www.minbuza.nl.

Medical Requirements

No health and vaccination certificates are required. You don't need any shots before your trip, but if you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure.

Customs

Duty-free shopping has been abolished in all European Union countries, so standard allowances do not apply to goods bought in one EU country and brought into another. In this case, there are no import limitations for most goods for personal use, but the following guideline limits may apply (above these limits you could be asked to prove the goods are for personal use): 3,200 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, and 3 kilograms of tobacco; 10 liters of liquor, 20 liters of aperitifs (port and so on), 90 liters of wine (of which 60 liters may be sparkling wine), and 110 liters of beer.

What You Can Bring In -- Travelers 17 and older residing in a country outside the EU can bring in, free of duty, 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 liter of liquor or 2 liters of sparkling or fortified wine; 2 liters of wine; 50 milliliters/grams of perfume; and 250 milliliters of eau de toilette. Import of most other goods is unlimited, so long as import duty is paid -- the duty must not exceed a value of 100€ (Belgium); 250€ (the Netherlands); 180€ (Luxembourg).

Forbidden products include firearms, counterfeit goods, banned narcotic substances, and protected animals and plants and products made from these.

For more information, contact Netherlands Customs (tel. 0800/0143, 31-20/586-751 from outside the Netherlands; www.douane.nl).

What You Can Take Home -- Note that the rules from the information sources referred to below also apply to legal residents of the countries concerned, whether they are citizens or not.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Irish Citizens: For information, contact the Irish Revenue's Customs Division at tel. 01/877-6400, or www.revenue.ie.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Many hotels and restaurants in Benelux now provide easy access for people with disabilities, and some display the international wheelchair symbol in their brochures and advertising. It's always a good idea to call ahead to find out what the situation is before you book. Both Brussels National Airport and Amsterdam Airport Schiphol have services to help travelers with disabilities through the airport. There's also comprehensive assistance for travelers with disabilities throughout the railway systems of all three countries. Inquire also at the national tourist board offices in each country for specific details on the available resources.

Not all trams in Brussels, Antwerp, Amsterdam, the Hague, Rotterdam, and other cities are easily accessible for travelers in wheelchairs, but the new trams being introduced on some routes have low central doors that are accessible. The Metro system is fully accessible, but that's not as good as it sounds, because few Metro stations are near places where visitors want to go. Taxis are also difficult, but new minivan taxis are an improvement. There's comprehensive assistance for travelers on Netherlands Railways (tel. 030/235-5555) trains and in stations. If you give them a day's notice of your journey by visiting a station or calling ahead, they can arrange for assistance along the way.

A good source of information in the Netherlands is ANWB Disabled Department (tel. 070/314-1420). In Luxembourg, contact Info Handicap, av. De la Gare 65, 1611 Luxembourg-Ville (tel. 352/366-466; www.info-handicap.lu).

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 4pm (some stay open until 5pm). Some banks open on late-hour shopping nights and Saturday. Stores generally are open Monday from 10 or 11am to 6pm, Tuesday to Friday from 8:30 or 9am to 5 or 6pm, and Saturday to 4 or 5pm. Some stores close for lunch, and nearly all have one full closing day or one morning or afternoon when they're closed -- signs are prominently posted announcing closing times. Many stores, especially in the larger towns, have late hours on Thursday and/or Friday evening. In the cities, stores along the main streets are open on Sunday.

Drinking & Drug Laws -- There is no minimum legal drinking age in the Netherlands -- but other laws may be used against a parent, guardian, or other third party who permits or causes a minor to abuse alcohol. For purchasing drinks that have less than 15% alcohol by volume, the minimum legal age is 16; for drinks with more than 15% alcohol by volume, the minimum legal age is 18; in both cases ID must be produced.

The use of controlled narcotic drugs is officially illegal in the Netherlands, but Amsterdam and some other local authorities permit the sale in licensed premises of up to 5 grams (1/5 oz.) of hashish or marijuana for personal consumption, and possession of 30 grams (1 1/5 oz.) for personal use. On the other hand, peddling drugs is a serious offense.

Electricity -- Like in most of Europe, Holland uses 230 (220-240) volts AC (50 cycles), compared to 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles) in the United States and Canada. Converters that change 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts are difficult to find in Holland, so bring one with you.

Bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies & Consulates -- Both the U.S. and the U.K. have consulates in Amsterdam and embassies in the Hague (Den Haag). Other English-speaking countries only have embassies in the Hague.

The embassy of Australia is at Carnegielaan 4, 2517 KH Den Haag (tel. 070/310-8200; www.australian-embassy.nl).

The embassy of Canada is at Sophialaan 7, 2514 JP Den Haag (tel. 070/311-1600; www.canada.nl).

The embassy of Ireland is at Dr. Kuijperstraat 9, 2514 BA Den Haag (tel. 070/363-0993; www.irishembassy.nl).

The embassy of New Zealand is at Carnegielaan 10, 2517 KH Den Haag (tel. 070/346-9324; www.nzembassy.com).

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Lange Voorhout 10, 2514 ED Den Haag (tel. 070/427-0427; www.britain.nl).

The embassy of the United States is at Lange Voorhout 102, 2514 EJ Den Haag (tel. 070/310-2209; http://netherlands.usembassy.gov).

Emergencies -- For police assistance, an ambulance, or the fire department, call tel. 112.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- A gas (petrol) station is a benzinestation, a pompstation, or a tankstation in Dutch. Gasoline is lead-free and sold in two varieties: euro 95 or euro 98 (for its octane number). Diesel is sold in all stations; autogas, also known as LPG (liquid petroleum gas), is sold in many. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters, and 1 imperial gallon equals 4.4 liters. The Netherlands "boasts" some of the highest gasoline prices in the world.

Internet Access -- The number of "cybercafes" has been declining, but most towns still have some.

Language -- Dutch people speak Dutch, of course, but English is the second language of the Netherlands and is taught in school from the early grades. The result is that nearly everyone speaks fluently -- so you may speak English almost as freely as you do at home, particularly to anyone providing tourist services, whether hotel receptionist, waitperson, or store clerk (cab drivers might be another story).

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Local emergency numbers to call are: American Express (tel. 020/504-8666), Diners Club (tel. 0800/555-1212), MasterCard (tel. 1-800/307-7309 or 1-636/722-7111 in the U.S.), and Visa (tel. 0800/022-3110).

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks in Belgium are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 1-800/325-6000 in the U.S.; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Most offices of TNT Post are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. Postage for a postcard or an ordinary letter up to 20 grams (.7 oz.) to the U.K. Ireland, and other European countries is 0.80€ ($1.30); to the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the rest of the world, it's 0.92€ ($1.45).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The main British and Irish daily newspapers, and the International Herald Tribune, Wall Street Journal Europe, USA Today, Time, Newsweek, US News & World Report, Business Week, Fortune, The Economist, and more are available from news vendors at major railway stations, and from other outlets in the main towns and cities.

Pharmacies -- In the Netherlands, a pharmacy is called an apotheek and sells both prescription and nonprescription medicines. Regular open hours are Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm. Pharmacies post details of nearby all-night and Sunday pharmacies on their doors.

Police -- Holland's emergency phone number for the police (politie) is tel. 112.

Smoking -- Since July 1, 2008, smoking is forbidden in restaurants, bars, cafes, hotel public areas, and most hotel rooms. Exceptions are in separate enclosed areas for smokers, in which staff are not allowed to provide drinks, meals, or other services. Smoking tobacco in "coffeshops" is likewise forbidden, but smoking the pot that is their stock in trade is allowed -- don't ask me! Trams, buses, Metro trains, and trains are smoke-free.

Taxes -- There's a value-added tax (BTW) in Holland of 6% on hotel and restaurant bills (19% on beer, wine, and liquor), and 6% or 19% (depending on the product) on purchases. This tax is always included in the price. Visitors residing outside the European Union can shop tax-free in Amsterdam. Stores that offer tax-free shopping advertise with a HOLLAND TAX-FREE SHOPPING sign in the window, and provide the form you need to recover taxes when you leave the European Union. Refunds are available only when you spend more than 50€ ($80) in a participating store.

Time -- Holland is on Western European Time (WET), which is Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), or Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), plus 1 hour. Clocks are moved ahead 1 hour for daylight-saving Western European Summer Time (WEST) between the last Sunday in March and the last Sunday in October. For example, when it's 6pm in Amsterdam, it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Tipping -- The Dutch government requires that all taxes and service charges be included in the published prices of hotels, restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, salons, and sightseeing companies. Even taxi fare includes taxes and a standard 15% service charge. To be absolutely sure in a restaurant that tax and service are included, look for the words inclusief BTW en service (BTW is the abbreviation for the Dutch words that mean value-added tax), or ask the waiter.

Dutch waiters and hotel staff often "forget" that a service charge and a tip are in effect the same thing. If you query them, they'll likely tell you that the tip isn't included in the bill -- slightly true, since it's not called a tip but a service charge. Customers pay a standard 15% whether they liked the service or not. The VVV tourist office's advice is: "Tips for extra service are always appreciated but not necessary."

To tip like the Dutch, in a cafe or snack bar, leave some small change on the counter or table. In a restaurant, leave 1€ to 2€ ($1.60-$3.20) per person, or to generously reward good service, 5€ ($8) per person or 10% of the tab. Since service can tend toward the lackadaisical, you may need to make due allowance for what constitutes "good." If another staffer takes your payment for the bill, give the tip to your waitperson directly.

In a hotel, tip if you wish for a long stay or extra service, but don't worry about not tipping -- you're unlikely to be hassled by a bellboy who lights every lamp in your room until he hears the rattle of spare change.

Should you feel an irrational compulsion to tip taxi drivers, round up the fare by a euro or two, or splash out 5% to 10%.

Toilets -- The most important thing to remember about public toilets in Holland -- apart from calling them toiletten (twa-lett-en) or "the WC" (Vay-say) and not restrooms or comfort stations -- is not the usual Male/Female (Heren/Dames) distinction (important though that is), but to pay the attendant. He or she has a saucer where you put your money. Toilets usually cost only about 0.30€ (50¢), and the attendant generally ensures that they are clean.

Water -- The water from the faucet in Holland is safe to drink. Many people drink bottled mineral water, called generically spa, even though not all of it is the Belgian Spa brand.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips & Language Classes

If you want to get fluent and have fun doing it, take a language course in Belgium or Holland. There are countless language schools; you can explore your options at www.language-directory.com, www.languageschoolsguide.com, or find an online partner to practice your new skills with at www.mylanguageexchange.com.

Maybe you've always dreamed of learning Dutch. Well, it can be done in Amsterdam. All three of the city's universities offer Dutch courses: Universiteit van Amsterdam, Spui 21, 1012 WX Amsterdam (tel. 020/525-9111; www.uva.nl); Volksuniversiteit, Rapenburgerstraat 73, 1011 VK Amsterdam (tel. 020/626-1626; www.volksuniversiteitamsterdam.nl); and Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, De Boelelaan 1105, 1081 HV Amsterdam (tel. 020/598-9898; www.vu.nl).

Adventure Trips

The terrain in Holland doesn't lend itself greatly to adventure -- but it does lend itself wonderfully to bicycling, and for some that will be adventure enough. If you want an active, typically Dutch vacation, VBT Bicycling Vacations, P.O. Box 711, Bristol, VT 05443 (tel. 800/245-3868; www.vbt.com), has a 7-day "Holland: Bike and Barge" tour. You get 3 days on a barge visiting historic towns along the IJsselmeer Lake shore, followed by 4 days of bicycling in the Hoge Veluwe National Park and around nearby Arnhem. Ask about VBT's "Air Package Plus," which includes round-trip airfare to Amsterdam and pre- and post-tour accommodations. The aptly named Tulip Tours (tel. 033/246-0040; www.tulipcycling.com) does a range of great cycling vacations through this bike-crazy country.

In addition to covering Holland, Pure Adventures (tel. 800/960-2221 in the U.S.; www.pure-adventures.com), takes in the Flemish part of Belgium, with the cities of Bruges and Ghent.

Food & Wine Trips

"Dutch cooking is not a widely known cuisine," admits a reviewer of The Art of Dutch Cooking (1997) by Corry Countess Van Limburg Stirum. True. Yet all is not lost, as you can discover by making contact with De Kookfabriek, De Flinesstraat 2-4, 1099 CB Amsterdam-Duivendrecht (tel. 020/463-5635; www.kookfabriek.nl), which (among other things) organizes Dutch cookery classes. Gordon's Guide Culinary Tours covers Holland, too.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Here's a list of companies offering educational and volunteer opportunities in Benelux:

Tips on Accommodations

Traditional European hotels tend to be simpler than American ones and emphasize cleanliness and friendliness over amenities. For example, even in the cheapest American chain motel, free cable is as standard as indoor plumbing. In Europe, few hotels below the moderate level have in-room TVs.

Unless otherwise noted, all hotel rooms here have private en suite bathrooms. However, the standard European hotel bathroom might not look like what you're used to. For example, one European concept of a shower is a nozzle stuck in the bathroom wall and a drain in the floor. Shower curtains are optional. In some cramped private bathrooms, you have to relocate the toilet paper outside the bathroom before turning on the shower and drenching the whole room. Another interesting fixture is the "half tub," in which there's only room to sit, rather than lie down. Hot water may be available only once a day and not on demand -- this is especially true with shared bathrooms. Heating water is costly, and many smaller hotels do so only once daily, in the morning.

Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg established the Benelux Hotel Classification System back in 1978 and updated the standards in 1994. Each establishment that accepts guests must publicly display a sign indicating its classification (from "1" for those with minimum amenities to "5" for deluxe, full-service hotels). The national tourist boards do an excellent job of providing full accommodations listings and advance booking for visitors. The Belgian and the Netherlands tourist offices, and the Netherlands Reservations Center (NRC), Nieuwe Gouw 1, 1442 LE Purmerend, Netherlands (tel. 0299/689-144 or 0299/689-154; www.hotelres.nl), will reserve accommodations for you at no charge before you leave home. The Luxembourg Tourist Office can furnish a complete list of accommodations in the Grand Duchy.

Should the idea of vacationing on a working farm, or in a château, an old-fashioned country home, or even in an old school converted to a character-filled lodging, hold some charms for you, Belgium has two organizations that can smooth your path to the front door. In Wallonia, contact Maison des Gîtes de Wallonie, av. Prince de Liège 1/21, 5100 Jambes-Namur (tel. 081/31-18-00; fax 081/31-02-00; www.gitesdewallonie.net). For Flanders, contact Plattelandstoerisme in Vlaanderen, Diestsevest 40, 3000 Leuven (tel. 016/28-60-35; fax 016/28-60-39; www.hoevetoerisme.be).

In all three countries, you can choose among luxury hotels in city or rural locations; smaller urban hotels with moderate rates and somewhat limited facilities; and charming, family-run country inns. No matter what end of the price scale it's on, each lodging will be spotlessly clean and will feature a staff dedicated to personal attention and excellent service. The rates quoted include the service charge (usually 15%), tax and, in most cases, breakfast.

Be sure to inquire about discounts when you book your room. Many hotels have a variety of room rates. It's sometimes possible to pay less if you settle for a shower instead of full bathroom facilities. Also, weekend or midweek rates are often available.

Visitor Information

The official tourist agency for each country maintains overseas branches that provide excellent in-depth information on a vast array of subjects, including special interests.

U.S. & Canada -- Netherlands Board of Tourism & Conventions, 355 Lexington Ave., 19th Floor, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/370-7360; fax 212/370-9507; www.holland.com).

U.K. & Ireland -- Netherlands Tourist Office (no walk-in service): P.O. Box 30783, London WC2B 6DH (tel. 020/7539-7950, premium-rate brochure order line tel. 09068/717777; fax 020/7539-7953; www.holland.com).

Most tourist information offices in the Netherlands, from big city and provincewide offices down to the tiniest village booth, are called "VVV." Those letters are followed by the destination's name: VVV Amsterdam, VVV Den Haag, VVV Haarlem, VVV Leiden, and so on. Triangular blue-and-white VVV signs are a common sight. The letters stand for a tongue-twisting name: Vereniging voor Vreemdelingenverkeer (Association for Visitor Travel) -- even the Dutch don't much like saying that every time so they call it simply the VVV (pronounced vay-vay-vay; or more like fay-fay-fay when spoken in an Amsterdam accent). VVV offices are efficient and have multilingual attendants on duty. They can reserve local accommodations for you, help with travel arrangements, tell you what's on where, and plenty more.

The umbrella organization for the VVV offices (no walk-in service) is the Netherlands Board of Tourism & Conventions (NBTC), Post Box 458, 2260 MG Leidschendam (tel. 070/370-5705; fax 070/320-1654; www.holland.com).

For tourist information when you arrive at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport and to make hotel reservations, go to the Holland Tourist Information desk in Schiphol Plaza (tel. 0900/400-4040), which is open daily from 7am to 10pm.

The Euro -- Holland's currency is the euro.

Useful Websites

In addition to official tourist organization websites -- such as www.visitholland.com, www.amsterdamtourist.nl -- there are many other useful sources of online information.

Regions in Brief

Holland might be a small country, but it boasts one of Europe's most memorable cities: Amsterdam. Around Amsterdam, the old and historic province of Holland, now divided into separate northern and southern provinces, is the economic powerhouse of the nation, and its most heavily populated region. Beyond these are three more or less natural divisions -- the northern, central, and southern Netherlands.

Amsterdam

The national capital -- easygoing, prosperous, full of canals, bridges, and museums -- is the natural focus of a visit to Holland. Few skyscrapers mar the clarity of the sky, and locals mostly walk or ride bicycles from place to place. The historic center city recalls Amsterdam's 17th-century Golden Age, when it was the command post of a vast trading network and colonial empire, and wealthy merchants constructed gabled residences along neatly laid-out canals. A delicious irony is that some of the placid old structures now host brothels, smoke shops, and extravagant nightlife.

Noord-Holland

You can think of North Holland province as the environs of Amsterdam, because anywhere in the province is within easy reach of the capital. Haarlem is a graceful town of winding canals and medieval neighborhoods that hold several fine museums. A visit to the windmill-speckled, tradition-rich village of Zaanse Schans, on the banks of the Zaan River, makes a great short excursion. Among many other options, you can make day trips to brash Zandvoort, or a bunch of other resorts on the North Sea coast, and to traditional IJsselmeer lakeside towns and villages such as Volendam, Marken, Edam, and Hoorn. Farther out, hop a ferry from Den Helder across to Texel, the closest of the Wadden Islands.

Zuid-Holland

South Holland province contains an awesome amount of interest for visitors. Starting with the seat of government, the Hague, a graceful city separated from the North Sea only by its seacoast resort of Scheveningen, is far more than politics. (Just as leading-edge Rotterdam, which sits on the delta where the Rhine, Maas, and Waal rivers meet the North Sea, is far more than a great port.) Delft is the town of the famous blue-and-white porcelain, the cradle of the Dutch Republic, the traditional burial place of the royal family, and the birthplace and inspiration of the 17th-century master of light and subtle emotion, painter Jan Vermeer. Famous for its associations with the Pilgrims who founded the Plymouth colony in present-day Massachusetts, Leiden was the birthplace of the Dutch tulip trade and of the painters Rembrandt and Jan Steen, and is home to the oldest university in the country. Gouda is renowned for its cheese.

Friesland, Groningen & Drenthe

Every one of the three sparsely populated northern provinces has a different character. With its own language, traditions, and national history, lake-filled Friesland is a vacation area par excellence, particularly on its string of sea islands. Groningen has its bustling university city of the same name, and Drenthe, Holland's "Green Province," is dotted with prehistoric monuments.

Utrecht, Gelderland, Overijssel & Flevoland

Stretching through the heartland, the four central provinces encompass a variety of scenery. The three Great Rivers -- the Rhine, Maas, and Waal -- flow through here, creating the country's greatest natural division. If it wasn't for the forests in Gelderland and Utrecht, most of Holland would consist of the flat green fields dotted with farmhouses so often depicted on the canvases of Dutch Masters. Overijssel is barely touched by tourism, and Flevoland, built on land reclaimed from the IJsselmeer lake (the former Zuiderzee), has only existed as a province since 1986.

Zeeland, Noord-Brabant & Limburg

These three provinces consider themselves the Burgundian part of the Netherlands, packed to their borders with southern charm. Coastal Zeeland, the part of Holland most threatened by the sea, is protected by the Delta Works. These massive dams and barriers also shelter many coast resorts (and seafood restaurants). Noord-Brabant has most of the marshy Biesbosch National Park on its territory, and the city of Eindoven, home base of the giant Philips electronics corporation. Maastricht, a city many Dutch consider the country's second liveliest (after Amsterdam), and the country's highest "mountain," a peak that ascends a whole 321m (1,053 ft.), are both in the southeast province of Limburg.

Getting Around

By Train

One of the best rail systems in the world operates in and between these small countries. There is virtually no spot so remote that it cannot easily be reached by trains that are fast, clean, and almost always on time. Furthermore, rail travel is a marvelous way to meet the locals, because the people of the Benelux countries spend as much time riding public transportation as they do behind the wheel of an automobile. Schedules are exact -- if a departure is set for 12:01pm, that means 12:01pm precisely, not 12:03pm -- and station stops are sometimes as short as 3 or 4 minutes, which means you must be fleet of foot in getting on and off.

Rail Passes -- An important consideration for anyone planning to travel a lot by train is an appropriate pass allowing reduced-rate travel. In addition to those referred to below, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg have discount rail passes for travel within their own country's borders. In each country there are many lower-cost options, including cheaper weekend and day returns, reductions for multiple journeys, and reductions for more than one passenger (not all options are available in each country). You should always ask about lower-cost options before buying. You'll find more details in the planning chapters of each country.

Eurail Passes -- The Eurailpass (www.eurail.com) allows Americans unlimited first-class travel throughout the rail systems of many European countries, including the Benelux countries, at a cost of $588 for 10 days and $762 for 15 days. The Eurail Youth Pass gives you the same deal at discount rates and in second class; and there are other variations. These passes should be purchased before you leave the United States (they're more expensive if you buy them in Europe) and are available from Rail Europe (tel. 800/438-7245; www.raileurope.com) and from travel agents.

Benelux Pass -- If all or most of your travel within Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg will be by train -- and provided you plan to travel by train a lot -- a good investment may be the Benelux Tourrail Pass, available through Rail Europe (tel. 800/438-7245; www.raileurope.com), and through travel agents. It gives you unlimited travel in all three countries on any 5 days in a 1-month period. The pass costs $228 for first class, $163 for second class. But if you're not traveling far, or often, don't bother with this pass. It's hard to make it pay off because most trips in these three countries are so short and relatively cheap. Even if you cram in Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden, Delft, the Hague, Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent, and Brussels, you'll still spend on point-to-point tickets significantly less than what you'd pay for a Benelux Tourrail Pass.

By Car

Drivers need only produce a valid driver's license from your home country. While getting around by train is relaxing and fast, and touring by bicycle is healthier and more human in pace, traveling by car still gives you the most freedom to ramble at your own speed, either on or off the beaten path. You'll find information on specific requirements, rules of the road, gasoline prices, maps, automobile clubs, and other driving assistance resources in the appropriate chapters for each country.

There is a major proviso to this, however. The Benelux countries have a high density of population in relation to their size, so roads are busy. In addition, many drivers in the region have high-density road aggression, so driving can degenerate into a struggle for survival. The major roads are often busiest precisely at the most popular vacation times, and accidents are not uncommon.

Virtually all major car-rental companies have offices in the three capital cities and some other large cities, though arranging a rental outside a metropolitan area can present problems. Names and locations of rental companies are listed in the appropriate chapters for each country.

By Bus

Intercity bus service ranges from poor to nonexistent throughout the Benelux countries. This is not as bad as it sounds, because the rail network is among the best in the world, and fast, comfortable intercity trains do most of the work. If you really want to, you can travel intercity by bus, but the buses stop a lot en route, so trip times are long, and you often have to change at an intermediate town -- for example, a trip from Brussels to Liège is two journeys: Brussels to Leuven and Leuven to Liège. Tourist offices and bus stations can furnish schedule and fare information.

The exception to the avoid-the-bus rule is in sparsely populated places where there is little or no rail service, such as Zeeland in Holland and the Ardennes in Belgium. In such areas there are more regional bus services, though the buses still may be few and far between. In general, unless you have a specific reason for wanting to go by bus, you'll always find it better to go by train.

All cities have excellent bus and/or tram (and in two cases, electric trolley bus) service. Some have metro (subway) service, which means you can easily leave your car at the hotel and avoid city driving woes.

By Plane

The Benelux cities are so close together that air travel is really not worth the added expense unless time is a vital factor (and even then you might still get to your destination quicker by train). Air service among the three countries is provided by KLM Cityhopper, KLM Exel, and Brussels Airlines. The KLM associates fly frequent scheduled services between Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Eindhoven, Maastricht, Groningen, and Enschede in Holland; to Brussels and Antwerp in Belgium; and to Luxembourg City. Brussels Airlines flies from Brussels to Amsterdam. For current schedules, fares, and reservations, contact KLM (tel. 020/474-7747; www.klm.com) in Holland; and Brussels Airlines (tel. 070/35-13-13; www.flysn.com) in Belgium.

By Bicycle

Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg are all ideal biking countries. In Holland, especially, and in parts of Flanders, there are often special bicycle tracks in towns and cities, and well-signed long-distance routes. You can also take your bike on a train. Rental bikes are usually available at major rail stations and often at smaller ones, and some even allow you to pick up and return bikes at stations at either end of a particular route. All three national tourist boards can help you plan an itinerary best suited to your physical condition and time restraints. Holland's excellent Cycling in Holland publication is especially useful. Organized bicycle tours can be arranged through International Bike Tours, P.O. Box 754, Essex, CT 06426 (tel. 860/767-7005; fax 860/767-3090); and Cycletours, Keizersgracht 181, 1016 DR Amsterdam (tel. 20/627-4098; fax 20/627-9032).

By Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is permitted (not encouraged) in Belgium and Luxembourg, though prohibited on highways (you can, however, stand on the approach road). It's officially forbidden in Holland, but many a blind eye is turned by officialdom to those standing in a safe spot to hitchhike.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages for the Independent Traveler

The Benelux is best known for its cities. Amsterdam, Brussels, and Bruges, in that order, are the best places for packaged short city breaks -- something like a long weekend, 5 days, or a week would be ideal. Local airlines KLM (www.klm.com) and Brussels Airlines (www.brusselsairlines.com) offer packages, as do many other international airlines. From Britain and Ireland, it's easy to do the shorter kind of city break, by plane or by bus, and there are many companies that offer such breaks.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

With a good escorted group tour, you'll know ahead of time what your trip will cost, and you won't have to worry about transportation, luggage, hotel reservations, communicating in foreign languages, and other basics -- an experienced guide will take care of all that and lead you through all the sightseeing. The downside of a guided tour is that you trade much of the freedom and personal free time independent travel grants you and often see only the canned postcard-ready side of Europe through the tinted windows of a giant bus. You get to see Europe, but rarely do you get the chance to really know it. Consult a good travel agent for the latest offerings and advice.

Virgin Vacations (www.virgin-vacations.com) organizes great custom escorted tours of Amsterdam alone, with bus, bike, and boat options; and of Belgium and Holland together, taking in Amsterdam, Delft, Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp.

The Amsterdam company Artifex (tel. 020/620-8112; www.artifex-travel.nl), offers everything from architecture walks to painting classes on canal boats. Its tailor-made tours aren't exactly cheap (the price depends on what you want to do), but its multilingual guides -- trained art historians -- can get you into private collections, the Royal Palace even when it's closed to the public, the Amsterdam School's Scheepvaarthuis (never open to the public), and plenty more places. Some clients wind up spending half their day in a cozy brown cafe.

With more than 450 different beers being produced in a nation of just 10 million inhabitants, you can easily see that beer is a big deal in Belgium. Some of these are run-of-the-mill pilsener beers but many are lovingly crafted specialty beers with their own distinct bottle and glass. Getting to grips with a bottle of Belgium's best is made easier on an escorted beer tour run by BeerTrips.com, PO Box 7892, Missoula, Montana 59807 (tel. 406/531-9109; http://beertrips.com/index.html).

Tiny Luxembourg is more likely to be included in a more general escorted tour than to be a destination in its own right. An example is the Imperial Capitals Tour offered by Cosmos Tours (tel. 800/942-3301; www.escortedcosmostours.com), which covers Belgium and Luxembourg in addition to other European countries.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, 132 782 in Australia, or 0871 2 300 040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Staying Safe

In Holland, be wary of pickpockets on trams, buses, and Metro trains; in rail and Metro stations; on busy shopping streets and in busy stores; and even in your hotel lobby. The rest of the Netherlands is not as bad in this respect as Amsterdam, though Rotterdam and the Hague are not so far behind.

In Amsterdam, of all places, there is a rising incidence of gays being verbally abused and even assaulted, and the perpetrators often appear to be young Muslim men and teens. In 2006, the editor of the Washington Blade gay paper was beaten up in such an incident. It's hard to say for sure how widespread this kind of thing is, though recent surveys seem to show that more gays feel less safe in the city than formerly. The city mayor has commissioned the University of Amsterdam to research the whole question of homophobic attacks.

Dealing with Discrimination

The election in 2008 of Barack Obama to replace George W. Bush as U.S. president seems likely to change the status of American visitors to "Old Europe" from one of guests who are not entirely respectable in such delicate company, to that of repentant sinners who finally heeded the advice of their moral guardians and improved themselves. How individual Americans feel about this transformation in their standing will be a matter of personal taste.

Meanwhile, both Holland and Belgium are showing an increase in votes for right-wing political parties opposed, to one degree or another, to immigration, or even to the continued presence of immigrant communities. This applies in particular to those migrants "who do not share European values." Rising levels of muggings, break-ins, pickpocketing, bag snatching, auto theft, and other crimes, attributed, rightly or wrongly, to legal and illegal immigrants and to some ethnic minorities, appear to be fueling the trend. This attitude could translate into discrimination against nonwhite visitors, though the majority of Dutch and Belgians would have nothing to do with this.

Antwerp has both an Orthodox Jewish community and a significant minority of people of North African (Arab) origin. Tensions caused by the Israeli/Palestinian conflict have led to some anti-Jewish attacks. Jewish visitors who dress in a way that clearly identifies them as Jewish should be aware of this, even though the chances of being a victim of such an attack are very small.

Note: Listing some of the possible dangers together like this can give a false impression of the threat from crime or discrimination in the Benelux lands. None of these dangers is statistically significant, and by no stretch of the imagination can any Benelux city be described as dangerous. The overwhelming probability is that you will not notice any of these problems, far less encounter one of them. But it can't hurt to be aware of them.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

In addition to an increasing number of pure vegetarian and vegan restaurants in all of the main towns and cities of the Benelux, the growing popularity of eating vegetarian means that many "carnivorous" restaurants have vegetarian options on their menus -- in these cases, though, watch out for nonlegit ingredients that might be employed simply through carelessness or lack of knowledge.

Outside of restaurants, street markets and specialized "bio" markets, and the organic-products shelves in supermarkets are common places to pick up vegetarian goods. Even if you don't have the means to cook vegetables, slicing and dicing for a meal or snack of raw vegetables should not present any problems.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The country code for the Netherlands is 31. When calling Holland from abroad, you do not use the initial 0 in the area code. For example, if you're calling an Amsterdam number (area code 020) from outside Holland, you dial the international access code (which is 011 when calling from North America, and 00 from elsewhere in Europe) and then 31-20, followed by the subscriber number. You only dial the initial 0 of the area code if you're calling within Holland.

When making local calls in Holland, you won't need to use the area codes shown here. You do need to use an area code between towns and cities. The two main formats for Dutch phone numbers are: for cities and large towns, a three-digit area code followed by a seven-digit number; and for small towns and villages, a four-digit area code followed by a six-digit number.

For operator assistance, call tel. 0800/0410. For information inside Holland, dial tel. 0900/8008; for international information, dial tel. 0900/8418 for multiple numbers, and 118 for a maximum one number per call. Numbers beginning with 0800 within Holland are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Holland is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call. Watch out for the special Dutch numbers that begin with 0900. Calls to these are charged at a higher rate than ordinary local calls. Depending who you call, they can cost up to 1€ ($1.60) a minute.

To make international calls from the Netherlands, first dial 00 and then the country code. To call the United States or Canada, dial 00 (the international access code) + 1 (the country code) + the area code + the number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you dial 00-1-202-588-7800. Other country codes are: United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64. International calls, per minute, cost: U.S. and Canada: 0.30€ (50¢); U.K. and Ireland: 0.35€ (55¢); Australia and New Zealand: 0.40€ (65¢).

You can use pay phones with either a KPN or a Telfort telekaart (phone card) -- but note that neither company's card works with the other company's phones. KPN cards are 5€ ($8), 10€ ($16), 20€ ($32), and 50€ ($80), from post offices, train ticket counters, VVV tourist information offices, GWK Travelex currency-exchange offices, and some tobacconists and newsstands. Telfort cards sell for 8€ ($13) and you get an additional 2€ ($3.20) worth of time free. Some pay phones take credit cards. A few take coins of 0.10€, 0.20€, 0.50€, 1€, and 2€. Use smaller coins whenever possible, at least until you are connected with the right person, as no change is given from an individual coin, and once the call has begun, excess coins will not be returned when you hang up. Both local and long-distance calls from a pay phone are 0.30€ (50¢) a minute.

There's a sustained dial tone, and a beep-beep sound for a busy signal. Should there be no answer, hang up and the coin comes back to you. On card and coin phones, a digital reading tracks your decreasing deposit so you know when to add another card or more coins. To make additional calls when you still have a coin or card inserted, briefly break the connection, and you will get a new dial tone for another call.

To charge a call to your calling card, call AT&T (tel. 0800/022-9111), MCI (tel. 0800/022-9122), Sprint (tel. 0800/022-9119), Canada Direct (tel. 0800/022-9116), British Telecom (tel. 0800/022-9944), Australia Direct (tel. 0800/022-0061), or Telecom New Zealand (tel. 0800/022-4295).

Cellphones

If your phone has GSM (Global System for Mobiles) capability and you have a world-compatible phone, you should be able to make and receive calls from the Benelux countries. Only certain phones have this capability, though, and you should check with your service operator first. Call charges can be high. Alternatively, you can rent a phone through Cellhire (www.cellhire.com, www.cellhire.co.uk, or www.cellhire.com.au). After a simple online registration, they will ship a phone (usually with a U.K. number) to your home or office. Usage charges can be astronomical, so read the fine print.

U.K. mobiles work in the Benelux countries; call your service provider before departing your home country to ensure that the international call bar has been switched off and to check call charges, which can be extremely high. Also remember that you are charged for calls you receive on a U.K. mobile used abroad.

In Holland, go to Telecom Rentcenter (tel. 020/653-0999; www.rentcenter.nl), in the Arrivals hall at Schiphol Airport.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, hostels, bars, coffeehouses, and cafes have terminals and/or Wi-Fi hotspots with Internet access. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots in the Benelux lands, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Without Your Own Computer -- The number of dedicated Internet cafes is declining in all three Benelux lands. You'll still find them, just not so many, due to the fact that many hotels, hostels, bars, coffeehouses, and cafes have terminals and/or Wi-Fi hotspots with Internet access.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. By far the best way to get around in the Benelux lands is by public transportation -- metro trains, trams, and buses for short journeys, and trains for longer journeys. All three countries offer discounts for seniors on public transportation. For train travel, these discounts begin at age 65 in Belgium, and at age 60 in Holland and Luxembourg. Bus companies may have different starting ages for discounted tickets and passes. Many sightseeing attractions and tour companies offer senior discounts, but these might apply only to local residents when they produce an appropriate ID. Be sure to ask when you buy your ticket.

A group of local seniors run so-called "Mee in Mokum" guided tours on foot through Amsterdam -- "Mokum" is the name Amsterdam's once-thriving Jewish community used for the city, and it's still used informally by the populace. The name means something like "Going With Amsterdam." People of any age can go on the tours, which are not exclusively for seniors, but the fact that they are led by seniors makes it more likely that the pace will be suitable. The guides speak English and know their beloved city inside out, as you might expect from people who have lived there for decades. Tours depart Tuesday to Sunday from the David & Goliath restaurant, Kalverstraat 92 (at the Amsterdams Historisch Museum); they last 2 to 3 hours and cost 4€ ($6.40). You can reach the guides at tel. 020/625-1390, or look them up at www.gildeamsterdam.nl.

When to Go

"In season" in Holland means from mid-April to mid-October. The peak of the tourist season is July and August, when the weather is at its finest. But the weather here is never really extreme, and you'll find Holland every bit as attractive during shoulder- and off-season months. Not only are airlines, hotels, and restaurants cheaper and less crowded during this time (with more relaxed and personalized service), but some appealing events are going on. Case in point: Holland's bulb fields burst with color from mid-April to mid-May.

Climate

Holland has a maritime climate. Summer temperatures average about 67°F (19°C); the winter average is 35°F (2°C). Winters, moderated a touch by the North Sea, are often rainy (it's driest Feb-May).

July and August are the best months to soak up rays on a sidewalk cafe terrace, dine at an outdoor restaurant in the evening, and head for the beach. September usually has a few weeks of fine late-summer weather; and there are even sunny spells in winter, when brilliant, crisp weather alternates with clouded skies.

Although the temperature doesn't always linger long below freezing in winter, remember that much of Holland is below sea level, making fog, mist, and dampness your too-frequent companions. This damp chill often seems to cut through to your very bones, so you'll want to layer yourself in Gore-Tex or something similar in the colder months. There are plenty of bright but cold days in winter, and if the temperature falls far enough, canals, rivers, and lakes freeze to become sparkling highways and playgrounds for ice skaters. Throughout the year, you can expect some rain.

To prepare for Holland's unpredictable weather, invest in a fold-up umbrella and hope you never have to use it; likewise, carry a raincoat (with a wool liner for winter), pack a sweater or two (even in July), and be prepared to layer your clothing any time of year. Winters can be cold, and in the northern provinces, like Friesland, canals and lakes are likely to freeze; the farther south you go, the less chance there is of this happening. Don't worry: You're allowed to leave space for T-shirts, skimpy tops, and sneakers.

For weather information once inside Holland, call tel. 0900/8003.

Holidays

Public holidays in Holland are January 1 (New Year); Good Friday; Easter Sunday and Monday; April 30 (Koninginnedag/Queen's Day); Ascension; Pentecost Sunday and Monday; and December 25 (Christmas) and December 26. The dates for Easter, Ascension, and Pentecost change each year.

In addition, there are two Remembrance Days related to World War II, neither of which is an official holiday, though you may find some stores closed: May 4, Herdenkingsdag (Memorial Day), honors all those who died in the war; and May 5 celebrates Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day).

Money Savers

One way to save money, and not just on admission to museums and attractions, is to buy one -- or more -- of the visitor passes offered by some city and province VVV tourist offices, like the I amsterdam Card. Remember that many museums and other attractions offer reduced admission to seniors, students, and children.

If you're in Holland on National Museum Weekend (Apr 4-5, 2009; similar dates in 2010), you're really in luck. Many museums in Holland offer free admission over the weekend, and others charge reduced admission.

Getting There

By Plane

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is Holland's only real international airport. It is 13km (8 miles) southwest of the center city, and has quick, direct rail links to Amsterdam's center city; to Rotterdam, the Hague, Utrecht, and other Dutch cities; and to Antwerp and Brussels. Schiphol is the hub of the Netherlands flag carrier KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, which has merged with Air France. Holland has other airports at Rotterdam (RTM), Maastricht (MST), Eindhoven (EIN), Groningen (GRQ), and Enschede (ENS), all of which handle a few regional flights and charters.

By Boat

Stena Line (tel. 08705/707070 in Britain, 0900/8123 in Holland; www.stenaline.co.uk) has twice-daily car-ferry service between Harwich in southeast England and Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland) near Rotterdam. The travel time during the day is 6 1/4 hours, and 7 hours overnight. Frequent trains depart from Hoek van Holland to Amsterdam.

P&O Ferries (tel. 0871/664-5645 in Britain, 020/210-3333 in Holland; www.poferries.com) has daily car-ferry service between Hull in northeast England and Rotterdam (into Europoort harbor). The overnight travel time is 10 hours. Ferry company buses shuttle between the Rotterdam Europoort terminal and Rotterdam Centraal Station, from where there are frequent trains to Amsterdam.

DFDS Seaways (tel. 0871/522-0955 in Britain, 0255/546-688 in Holland; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) has daily car-ferry service between Newcastle in northeast England and IJmuiden on the North Sea coast, 24km (15 miles) west of Amsterdam. The overnight travel time is 15 hours. From IJmuiden, you can go by special bus to Amsterdam Central Station.

By Train

Rail service to the Benelux countries from major European cities is frequent, fast, and generally inexpensive compared to air travel.

On the Thalys high-speed train, travel times from Paris-Nord station to Amsterdam Centraal Station (via Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam, the Hague, and Schiphol Airport) are 4 hours and 10 minutes, and from Brussels Midi station they are 2 hours and 15 minutes. Departures are approximately every hour. For Thalys reservations in Holland, call tel. 0900/9296. Or book online at www.thalys.com. Tickets also are available from main rail stations and travel agents. An improved Thalys service operating on a new high-speed rail line in Belgium and Holland is expected to be operational some time in 2010, and will reduce the travel time from Brussels by an hour.

By Bus

Eurolines has the most comprehensive bus network in Europe. For reservations, call tel. 08717/818-081 in Britain, tel. 02/274-13-50 in Belgium, or tel. 020/560-8788 in the Netherlands. Or book online at www.eurolines.com.

Eurolines has bus service between London and Amsterdam, with four departures daily. Travel time is 12 hours.

By Car

The Benelux countries are crisscrossed by a dense network of major highways connecting them with other European countries. Distances are relatively short. Road conditions are excellent throughout all three Benelux countries, service stations are plentiful, and highways have good signs. Traffic congestion in both Brussels and Amsterdam, however, can cause monumental tie-ups -- in these two cities, it's best to park your car at your hotel garage and use local transportation or walk (the best way, incidentally, to see either city).

Via the Channel Tunnel from Britain -- The fast and efficient Eurotunnel (tel. 08705/353535 in Britain; www.eurotunnel.com) auto-transporter trains transport your car through the Channel Tunnel from Folkestone, England, to Calais, France (a 35-min. trip). Departures are every 15 minutes at peak times, every 30 minutes at times of average demand, and every hour at night.

To drive in the Benelux lands, drivers need only produce a valid driver's license from their home country. The countries are crisscrossed by a network of major international highways coming from Germany and France. Traffic is often heavy -- but distances between destinations are relatively short, road conditions are generally excellent, service stations are plentiful, and highways are plainly signposted.

The best way to experience most European cities is to drive to the city, park your car, and never touch it again until you leave. In virtually all Benelux cities, and in particular in congested places like Amsterdam, Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp, it's smart not to even bring a car.

Calendar of Events

One of the biggest and most eagerly awaited events in Holland is the Elfstedentocht, the 11-cities race, in which skaters compete over a 200km (124-mile) course through Friesland province. The first race was run in 1909, and it has been run only 14 times since, most recently in 1997. Perhaps the weather and ice conditions will allow the race to be held when you are visiting. If so, it's well worth going out of your way to see -- or even to take part in. Contact VVV Friesland (tel. 0900/202-4060).

January

New Year. This celebration is wild and not always wonderful. Youthful spirits celebrate the New Year with firecrackers, which they cheerfully -- if not drunkenly -- throw at the feet of passersby. This keeps hospital emergency rooms busy. January 1.

Rotterdam International Film Festival. More than 300 indie films are screened at theaters around town. Contact tel. 010/890-9090 or www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com. January 21 to February 1, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

February

Carnival, Maastricht and Den Bosch ('s-Hertogenbosch). Contact VVV Maastricht (tel. 043/325-2121; www.vvv-maastricht.eu) and VVV Den Bosch (tel. 0900/112-2334; www.vvvdenbosch.nl). Seven weeks before Easter.

ABN AMRO World Tennis Tournament, Rotterdam. The world's top men tennis players converge on the port city for this ATP Tour event. Contact Ahoy (tel. 010/293-3300; www.ahoy.nl), or go to www.abnamrowtt.nl. February 9 to 15, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

March

Windmill Days, Zaanse Schans. All five working windmills (out of eight windmills in total) are open to the public at this recreated old village and open-air museum in the Zanstreek, just north of Amsterdam. Contact Zaanse Schans (tel. 075/616-2862; www.zaanseschans.nl). March to October.

The European Fine Art Fair, Maastricht. Top-rated international art and antiques fair at the Maastricht Exhibition and Congress Center (MECC). Art dealers from around the world present their finest objects. Jewelry, silver, carpets, Egyptian and classical antiquities, and 20th-century art are among the items on view. Contact tel. 0411/645-090 or www.tefaf.com. March 13 to 22, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Opening of Keukenhof Gardens, Lisse. The greatest flower show on earth blooms with a spectacular display of tulips and narcissi, daffodils and hyacinths, bluebells, crocuses, lilies, amaryllis, and many other flowers at this 32-hectare (80-acre) garden in the heart of the bulb country. There's said to be nearly eight million flowers. Contact Keukenhof (tel. 025/246-5555; www.keukenhof.nl). March 19 to May 21, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

April

National Museum Weekend. A weekend during which most museums in the Netherlands offer free or reduced admission and have special exhibits. April 4 to April 5, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Bloemencorso van de Bollenstreek (Bulb District Flower Parade). Floats keyed to a different floral theme each year parade from Noordwijk, through Sassenheim, Lisse, and Bennebroek, to Haarlem. Contact Bloemencorso Bollenstreek (tel. 0252/428-237; www.bloemencorso-bollenstreek.nl). April 25, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Koninginnedag (Queen's Day). Countrywide celebration honoring the queen's official birthday, with parades, street fairs, and street entertainment. Throughout Holland, but best in Amsterdam. April 30.

May

Herdenkingsdag (Memorial Day). Countrywide observance for victims of World War II, principally marked by 2 minutes of silence at 8pm. May 4.

Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day). Commemorates the end of World War II and Holland's liberation from Nazi occupation. Throughout the country, but best in Amsterdam. May 5.

National Windmill Day. Around two-thirds of the country's almost 1,000 working windmills spin their sails and are open to the public. Contact Vereniging de Hollandsche Molen (tel. 020/623-8703; www.molens.nl). Second Saturday in May: May 9, 2009, and May 8, 2010.

National Cycling Day, throughout Holland. On this day, Dutch people get on their bikes and pedal. So what else is new? Second Saturday in May: May 9, 2009, and May 8, 2010.

June

Holland Festival, Amsterdam, the Hague, Rotterdam, and Utrecht. Each year, these four cities join forces to present a cultural buffet of music, opera, theater, film, and dance. The schedule includes all the major Dutch companies and visiting companies and soloists. Contact Holland Festival (tel. 020/530-7110; www.hollandfestival.nl). May 31 to June 29, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day), Scheveningen. The fishing fleet opens the herring season with a race to bring the first Hollandse Nieuwe herring back to port (the first barrel is auctioned for charity). Contact Stichting Vlaggetjesdag Scheveningen (tel. 070/345-3267; www.vlaggetjesdag.com). June 13, 2009; similar date in 2010.

Terschellings Oerol Festival. Open-air performances by international theater companies on this island in the Wadden Sea. Contact Terschellings Oerol (tel. 0562/448-448; www.oerol.nl). June 12 to 21, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Amsterdam Roots Festival. Various venues. This festival features music and dance from around the world, along with workshops, films, and exhibits. One part is the open-air Oosterpark Festival, a multicultural feast of song and dance held at Oosterpark in Amsterdam-Oost (East). Contact Amsterdam Roots Festival (tel. 020/531-8181; www.amsterdamroots.nl). June 13 to 29, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Open Gardens Days. If you wonder what the fancy gardens behind the gables of some of the city's houses-turned-museums look like, this is your chance to find out. Some of the best are open to the public for 3 days. Go to the website of Grachten Musea (tel. 020/320-3660; www.grachtenmusea.nl). Third week in June.

July

Over Het IJ Festival. Performers stage avant-garde theater, music, and dance in Amsterdam-Noord, beside the IJ channel, at the old NDSM Wharf, TT Neveritaweg 15. Contact Over Het IJ Festival (tel. 020/492-2229; www.overhetij.nl). July 2 to 12, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

North Sea Jazz Festival, Ahoy, Rotterdam. One of the world's leading gatherings of top international jazz and blues musicians unfolds over 3 concert-packed days at the city's giant Ahoy venue. Last-minute tickets are scarce, so book as far ahead as possible. Contact North Sea Jazz Festival (tel. 0900/300-1250 in Holland, or 31-10/591-9000 from outside Holland; www.northseajazz.com). July 11 to 13, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Skûtsjesilen, the Frisian Lakes and the IJsselmeer. Sailing races feature skûtsjes, traditional Frisian sailing ships. Contact VVV Friesland (tel. 0900/202-4060; www.skutsjesilen.nl). July 18 to 31, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

August

Amsterdam Gay Pride. This is a big event in Europe's most gay-friendly city. A crowd of as many as 150,000 people turns out to watch the Boat Parade's display of 100 or so outrageously decorated boats cruising the canals. In addition, there are street discos, open-air theater performances, a sports program, and a film festival. Contact Amsterdam Gay Pride (www.amsterdamgaypride.nl). First weekend in August: August 1 to 3, 2009 (Canal Parade Aug 2); similar dates in 2010.

Grachten Festival (Canal Festival). A 5-day festival of classical music, on a different theme each year, plays at various intimate and elegant venues along the city's canals and at the Muiziekgebouw aan 't IJ. There's always a performance or two designed for children. The festival culminates in the exuberant Prinsengracht Concert, which plays on a pontoon in front of the Hotel Pulitzer. Contact Stichting Grachtenfestival (tel. 020/421-4542; www.grachtenfestival.nl). August 15 to 23, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Festival Oude Muziek (Festival of Early Music), Utrecht. Concerts of music from the Middle Ages to the Romantic era. Contact Stichting Organisatie Oude Muziek (tel. 030/232-9000; www.oudemuziek.nl). August 28 to September 6, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Uitmarkt. Amsterdam previews the cultural season with this open market of information and free performances at impromptu outdoor venues, and at theaters and concert halls. Both professional and amateur groups take part in the shows, which run the gamut of music, opera, dance, theater, and cabaret. Go to the website of Uitmarkt (www.uitmarkt.nl). Usually the last weekend in August, but dates are not confirmed until the preceding March.

11 Steden Fiets 4 Daagse (11 Cities 4 Days Bicycle Tour), Friesland. The bicycling version of the famous Elfstedentocht ice-skating race through Friesland province, based on the idea that roads and bikes are more reliable than frozen canals and skates. Contact VVV Friesland (tel. 0900/202-4060), or go to www.11stedenfietsvierdaagse.nl. End of August.

September

Open Monumentendag (Open Monument Day). A chance to see historic buildings and monuments around the country that usually are not open to the public -- and to get in free as well. Contact Vereniging Open Monumentendag (tel. 020/422-2118; www.openmonumentendag.nl). Second Saturday and Sunday: September 12 and 13, 2009; September 11 and 12, 2010 (probable).

State Opening of Parliament, the Hague. On Prinsjesdag (Princes' Day), Queen Beatrix rides in a splendid gold coach to the Knights' Hall in the Hague to open the legislative session by delivering the Troonrede (Speech from the Throne). Contact VVV Den Haag (tel. 0900/340-3505; www.denhaag.com). Third Tuesday in September: September 15, 2009; September 21, 2010.

October

Leidens Ontzet (Relief of Leiden). Procession commemorating the anniversary of the raising of the 1574 Spanish siege of Leiden. Haring en witte brood (herring and white bread) are distributed, just as the piratelike band of "Sea Beggars" did after helping drive the Spaniards away. Contact VVV Leiden (tel. 0900/222-2333; www.leiden.nl). October 3 (Oct 4 when the 3rd is a Sun).

International Horti Fair, Amsterdam. The largest exhibit of autumn-blooming flowers in the Netherlands takes place at the RAI convention center. Contact Horti Fair (tel. 0297/344-033; www.hortifair.nl). October 13 to 16, 2009; similar dates in 2010.

Leather Pride is a growing happening of parties and other events for gays who are into a leather lifestyle. Contact Leather Pride Nederland (tel. 020/422-3737; www.leatherpride.nl). Last weekend of October.

November

Crossing Border Festival, Den Haag (the Hague). Literature, poetry, and music are combined in this 5-day festival. Contact Crossing Border (tel. 070/346-2355; www.crossingborder.nl). Mid-November.

Sinterklaas Arrives. Holland's Santa Claus (St. Nicholas) launches the Christmas season when he arrives in Holland from Spain, accompanied by black-painted assistants, called Zwarte Piet (Black Peter), who hand out candy to kids. During the next 2 weeks he makes his way to towns across the land. Contact local VVV offices. Third Saturday in November: November 21, 2009; November 20, 2010. He arrives the next day in Amsterdam.

December

Winterland Maastricht. For the city's annual Christmas Market, stands selling seasonal trinkets, traditional craft items, and food and drink, alongside a nativity crib with live animals and an ice-skating rink, are all set up on the beautiful Vrijthof Square. Every day there are performances by choirs and traditional bands, and Father Christmas hands out presents for the children. Contact VVV Maastricht (tel. 043/325-2121; www.vvv-maastricht.eu). Throughout the month, daily from 10am to 10pm.

Sinterklaas. St. Nicholas's Eve is the traditional day in Holland for exchanging Christmas gifts. Join some Dutch friends or a Dutch family if possible. December 5.

Gouda bij Kaarslicht (Gouda by Candlelight). In the evening, all the electric lights are turned off around the Markt, and Gouda's main square, the 15th-century town hall, and a giant Christmas tree are all lit up by thousands of candles. Contact VVV Gouda (tel. 0900/468-3288; www.vvvgouda.nl). Second Tuesday before Christmas.

Tips for Single Travelers

Amsterdam is Europe's ideal singles city: Countless singles from around the world come there to have a great time. The other major Benelux cities, not so much (Antwerp and Rotterdam could be the big exceptions). Amsterdam is not that difficult of a place to get to and get to grips with for a person traveling alone. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in all price bands, and it's easy to meet other people around the bars and clubs, on canal-boat tours and bicycle tours, and in other ways.

I don't know if anybody ever went to Brussels, Bruges, or Ghent for a no-holds-barred wild-party vacation -- and for sure not to the Hague, Liège, or Luxembourg City. I don't mean to say there are no decent bars and dance clubs amid the fine dining, art galleries, history museums, and other sober-sided goings-on in these places, but that's not really where their heart and soul are.

Companies that specialize in solo travel to the Benelux lands are thin on the ground. The Singles Travel Company, 56 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos, CA 95030 (tel. 888/286-8687, or 408/354-3871; www.singlestravelcompany.com), takes in Amsterdam as a part of its European tour.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

You can get information, or just meet people, by visiting COC, Rozenstraat 14 (tel. 020/626-3087; www.cocamsterdam.nl), the Amsterdam branch of the Dutch lesbian and gay organization. On the premises are a daytime cafe serving coffee and quiche, a meeting space for special-interest groups, weekend discos (mainly men Fri, women Sat), and a special ethnic evening called Strange Fruit on Sunday. The Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (tel. 020/623-6565; www.switchboard.nl), open daily from 10am to 10pm, can provide you with all kinds of information and advice. Call AIDS Infolijn (tel. 0900/204-2040) for info on AIDS.

You shouldn't have much trouble finding information about gay and lesbian bars and clubs because they're well publicized. The free biweekly listings magazine Shark is a great source of cultural information, in particular for the offbeat and alternative scenes, and comes with a centerfold pullout, titled Queer Fish, which has excellent lesbian and gay listings. Gay News Amsterdam and Gay & Night, competing monthly magazines in both Dutch and English, are available free in gay establishments around the city.

Staying Healthy

There are no particular health concerns in the Benelux -- if you don't count the "risk" in Amsterdam and other Dutch towns of occasionally breathing in a whiff of someone else's legally tolerated hashish smoke (and of course they'd likely argue that it's perfectly healthy). You will encounter few other health problems when traveling. The tap water is safe to drink, the milk is pasteurized, and healthcare is excellent.

No health and vaccination certificates are required. You don't need any shots before your trip, but if you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. (Also, in light of recent events, travelers might want to visit www.tsa.com for up-to-date regulations on what is and isn't permissible to pack in carry-on baggage.) Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription eyeglasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors.

General Availability of Healthcare

The state-owned healthcare systems in the Benelux lands are among the world's best, even if they have begun to show signs of the strain of universal healthcare for all. It's easy to get over-the-counter medicines for minor ailments, and both local brands and generic equivalents of most common prescription drugs are available. Many doctors speak English (though the words they use might be a little disturbing, like the doctor who told me he knew what "disease" I had when I reported a minor ailment).

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. Most hospitals have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not lifethreatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit. Embassies in Brussels and the Hague can provide a list of area doctors who speak English (meaning just about any doctor).