Mike and Lindsay Downing took over this classic sporting lodge in 2015 (Lindsay’s parents ran it for decades before), and they’ve set about turning it into the most pleasant basecamp in these parts. The main lodge and its eight rooms share a definite hunting camp vibe (indeed, hunters make up a lot of the clientele), with mounted animal heads on the wall, quilted bedspreads, plank wood walls and stone accents and furnishings made out of birch stumps. Rooms are cozy and share hallway bathrooms, except for #8, which has its own bathroom. In the Maine hunting lodge style—and because meals are included—lodge rates are per person. The five cabins (plus a yurt) sleep 3 to 8 people and have the same rustic vibe. All have full bathrooms; some have full kitchens. The Downings’ deep knowledge of the area is a huge selling point—they’ve been recreating at the adjacent national monument since before anybody even proposed a national monument. And they do a terrific job in the dining room, serving up family-style breakfasts and dinners. Dinners are open to non-guests by reservation and might include pan-seared salmon with blueberry chutney or roast pork loin with apples, onions and fennel, along with some of Mike’s beautiful (and tasty) sourdough breads.