One of my favorite truck-stop diners in America is the P&H Truck Stop, in Wells River (tel. 802/429-2141), right at exit 17 off I-91. The custardy, rich maple-sugar pie (topped with a creamy mound of meringue) alone is without equal, and strongly reflects the Franco influence of the province just to the north, and main dishes like turkey with gravy and the homemade bread and doughnuts are also filling and satisfying. It's a must-visit when passing through the Northeast Kingdom.

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