Planning a trip to Thessaloniki
Getting There
By Plane
Thessaloniki's Macedonia International Airport (tel. 2310/473-212), 17km (11 miles) south of town, is served from Athens International Airport (www.aia.gr) by Olympic Air (tel. 810/114-4444 or 210/966-6666, official Greek phone numbers that never answer; www.olympicair.com) Aegean Airlines (tel. 810/112-0000; www.aegeanair.com) also has several flights daily between Athens and Thessaloniki. From the U.S., there are no direct flights to Thessaloniki. Connections can be made at a number of European cities, including Athens, Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt, London, Munich, Vienna, and Zurich
The airport is a 30-minute drive from the city center. Bus no. 78 runs from the airport into central Thessaloniki in about an hour (usually stopping in Aristotelous Sq. and at the train station) daily from about 6am to 11pm and costs 4€. A taxi ride runs about 15€.
By Train
Five daily trains officially make the trip from Athens to Thessaloniki in about 6 hours, but most are crowded, without air-conditioning, and subject to unexplained delays; nonetheless, they are cheap, at around 50€ round trip coach. If you must take a train, choose the fast InterCity, preferably the overnight sleeper, which has first-class compartments for four to six passengers and sleeper compartments for two to six passengers. Make reservations for sleeping compartments well in advance at the Larissa train station in Athens (tel. 210/323-6747; www.ose.gr).
In Thessaloniki, you can purchase tickets at the OSE Thessaloniki Train Station, 28 Monastiriou, the western extension of Egnatia (tel. 2310/599-421). InterCity coach tickets from Athens to Thessaloniki cost from 120€ round trip, sleeper service from 150€ round-trip. A taxi ride from the station to Aristotelous Square takes about 10 minutes and costs about 8€. Tip: Avoid the trek to the train station to get information and buy tickets, and use the OSE (train) office instead, at 18 Aristotelous Sq. (tel. 2310/598-120; www.ose.gr), 9am to 9pm Tuesday to Friday; 9am to 3pm Monday and Saturday.
By Bus
Ten air-conditioned buses from Athens usually make the trip daily to Thessaloniki in about 7 hours (includes one 20-min. stop at a roadside restaurant with toilet facilities). Buses usually arrive on time. Make reservations in advance at the Athens bus terminal, 100 Kifissou (tel. 210/512-4910 or 210/512-9233). A one-way fare costs about 45€. Many buses arrive in Thessaloniki at the station at 65 Monastiriou (tel. 2310/510-834) opposite the train station, where there are taxis. Some buses stop at the newer bus station at 194 Iannitsou (tel. 2310/595-408), west of the train station. For general information on Athens-Macedonia schedules and fares, call tel. 210/512-4910 or go to www.ktel.org.
By Car
From Athens, take the 516km (320-mile) National Road, a four-lane highway that's the best in Greece, although stretches are always being repaired or widened, which leads to frequent delays. The road, a major truck route, is also often the scene of serious accidents. Plan on at least 6 or 7 hours, if you stop en route. Gas stations are common along the National Road, but you often must exit to reach them. Much of the road skirts the mountains and goes through the plains of central and northern Greece. In other words, it's not the most stunning drive.
If you're driving to Northern Greece from Europe, you'll probably take the ferry from the Italian ports of Bari, Ancona, or Brindisi to Igoumenitsou on the northwest coast of Greece, and then drive across the Pindus Mountains to Thessaloniki. The trip is spectacular; allow at least 5 or 6 hours. The southern route (via Ioannina and Kalambaka to Larissa and the National Rd.) is much less treacherous than the northern alternative (through Kozani) -- particularly in winter, although snow can close both routes. The southern route also passes Kalambaka and the monasteries perched on the awesome pinnacles of the Meteora. You will almost certainly encounter continuing roadwork on the National Highway (called the Via Egnatia, after its Roman predecessor) designed to link Patras (in the Peloponnese) with Central Greece and continue on to Macedonia and the Turkish border. The road was officially completed in June of 2009, but work will continue for some time.
Visitor Information
The Thessaloniki office of the Greek National Tourism Organization is at 136 Tsimiski (tel. 2310/221-100; www.visitgreece.gr), 2 blocks inland and 2 blocks east of the harborside White Tower.
Finding an Address -- Buildings almost never have visible numbers; ask for what you want by name, not by number. If possible, have someone write down, in Greek, what you are searching for so that you can show the name to a local. Even with a good map, and helpful locals, you'll probably have trouble finding some of the churches in Ano Poli, but take it, as the Greeks say, "Siga, siga" ("Slowly, slowly"), and you'll find your way.
High Season in Thessaloniki -- The busiest time of the year in Thessaloniki is not summer but fall, when the International Trade Fair and Festival of Greek Songs takes place in September, followed by the Demitria celebrations of the city's patron saint continuing into October and November. There is also a film festival in November. If you come between September and November, be sure to book a hotel in advance -- and be prepared to pay dearly: Price hikes of more than 50% are usual during convention and festival season, although Greece's wobbly economy may keep prices down.
Maps -- City maps and two excellent guides to the city (The Thessaloniki Handbook [with section-by-section maps], by Christos Zafiris; and Monuments of Thessaloniki [with an excellent city-center map], by Apostolos Papagiannopoulos) are usually available at bookstores, including Ianos, 7 Aristotelous (tel. 2310/277-164); Traveller Bookstore, 41 Proxenou Koromila (tel. 2310/275-215); Malliaris, 9 Aristotelous (tel. 2310/276-926); and P. Kyriakides, 40 Agias Sophias St. (tel. 2310/241-613).
Parking
Thessaloniki sits on the northern coast of the Thermaic Gulf like a lopsided turban tilted to the northwest. Central Thessaloniki is bounded on the south by its deep harbor and on the north by the heights of the Ano Poli (Upper City). Thessaloniki's most important square -- the equivalent of Athens's Syntagma Square -- is Aristotelous Square, which runs almost into the harbor. The city's best-known landmark -- but no rival to Athens's Acropolis -- is the White Tower, a remnant of the massive walls that once encircled the city. The great walls -- begun in antiquity and extended and expanded by the Byzantines, Venetians, and Turks -- were torn down as the population grew and the city expanded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, Thessaloniki continues to sprawl along the Thermaic Gulf. To the east are the expanding residential districts, while to the west, there are rail and ship yards and neighborhoods as yet unreclaimed and transformed into galleries and restaurants.
The heart of Thessaloniki, with its most important shops, banks, hotels, restaurants, archaeological remains, and churches lies between the heights of the Ano Poli and the harbor. This is also where you will find (to the east) the campus of several universities, the grounds of the International Trade Fair and the Archaeological and Byzantine museums; to the west, there are streets lined with warehouses -- many now converted into the chic restaurants and galleries of the Ladadika district. Ladadika blurs into Ksiladika, the woodworkers' district, which is beginning to lay claim to its own chic restaurants and shops, in addition to the carpenter's workshops that originally gave the district its character.
Central Thessaloniki is dominated by four main streets running from the southwest to the northeast. The largest, Egnatia, runs across the northern side of the commercial district. Egnatia is home to discount shops, cheap hotels, and affordable restaurants. The city's second-most important commercial route, Tsimiski, parallels Egnatia 2 blocks to the south and runs one-way from east to west. Unpronounceable Tsimiski street (if you make a slight sneeze and you try to say Tsimiski, it may help) has lots of hotels and many of the city's best shops and department stores. One block south of Tsimiski and running one-way from west to east is Mitropoleos, with its namesake the Metropolitan Cathedral. Like Tsimiski, Mitropoleost has lots of good shops, boutiques, and sweet shops -- Thessalonians adore sweets. The seaside promenade Leoforos Nikis is 1 block south of Mitropoleos, runs from the shipping yards to the White Tower, and has virtually non-stop outdoor cafes and bars.
Stand in Aristotelous Square at almost any time of the day or night and you'll realize this is the heart of downtown Thessaloniki. Ringed with outdoor cafes and restaurants, it is also the backdrop for the city's major political rallies and demonstrations. Aristotle Street runs to Thessaloniki's other important central square, Dikasterion, where most city buses begin and end their runs. The square overlooks the partially excavated Roman marketplace and has a clutch of shady trees, the Byzantine church Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Workers), and a restored Turkish bathhouse. Sometimes, there's an informal street market here run mainly by migrant workers from Eastern Europe, the former USSR, and Africa. Thessaloniki's main market areas, where you can find anything from fresh fish to curtain hooks, spill around the square.
Ayias Sofias Street, another of the city's main drags, named after one of the city's most important churches, is east of Aristotelous Street. This was once Thessaloniki's most fashionable residential square, similar to Athens's chic Kolonaki Square. Just off the square is pedestrianized Dimitriou Gounari, whose shop-lined length sits on top of a major Roman thoroughfare that went from the Galerius's palace to his monumental arch. The palace area, now partially excavated, opens onto the tree-shaded park of Navarino Square, which is crowded with outdoor cafes, bars, and tavernas, and second only to Aristotelous as the city's major gathering place -- although many of the artists and intellectuals who gather here would place it first.
The old Turkish Quarter has lots of names: Ano Poli (Upper City), Eptapirgiou (Seven Gates), and To Kastro (Fortress). This is where you'll find some of the finest Byzantine churches -- and, increasingly, some elegant restored town houses. This is easily the most pleasant part of Thessaloniki to explore -- but walking all the way up is, well, a very steep uphill walk. Your reward is the delights of visiting all those small churches and exploring the winding streets around Kalitheas Square, such as Irodotou, as well as pleasant squares such as Romfei Square, in the district known as Koule Kafe, and Tsinari Square, at the juncture of Kleious and Alexandras Papadopoulou. Note: Remember that most churches are closed from about 1 to 5pm.
If you are driving in and out of Thessaloniki, you'll probably use the Ring Road, just to the north of the Upper City, that loops around Thessaloniki and connects the National Road from Athens with highways to Thrace and Halkidiki and to the airport at Mikras along the sea to the east.
Getting Around
In the city center, a 20- to 30-minute walk will take you to most attractions, restaurants, and shops. Taxis are usually easy to find, unless you're going to the Upper City. Many taxis are reluctant to make this trip because there is little guarantee of a return fare down, and they may -- unlawfully -- refuse. But if you're in the cab before you state your destination, there's little the driver can do but take you there. Otherwise, if you don't want to walk up, you can hop on bus no. 23, which leaves from Eleftherias Square.
By Bus -- Bus tickets cost .50€ from kiosks (periipetera) or .60€ on board (exact change required). A price hike is in the offing, so check these prices upon arrival. Keep your ticket in case a conductor boards the bus to check them; fines of 30€ are standard for tickletless riders.
By Taxi -- This is your best bet except, as noted under "Getting Around" above, when you want to go to the Upper City. Have someone write out your destination in Greek, so that you can show the driver where you want to go. Most hotels will call a taxi for you, or try Macedonia (tel. 2310/550/599) or Lefko Pyrgos (tel. 2310/214/900).
By Car -- There is little reason to have a car in Thessaloniki. Traffic is terrible and legal parking spots are almost impossible to find, even at the large public parking lot in Plateia Eleftherias. But having a car for excursions into northern Greece will allow you to see and enjoy a lot more than you would either from a bus or on a guided tour. Keep in mind that if you take a day trip, you'll spend at least an hour getting out of and another hour getting back into the city. It makes much better sense to see what you want outside of town on your way in, or out, of Thessaloniki.
Most car-rental agencies -- including Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), Eurocar (www.eurocar.com), and Hertz (www.hertz.com) -- have offices at the airport. A car with unlimited mileage costs from 60€ per day in high season. (Reminder: High season is during the Sept-Oct trade and other festivals.) Be sure to ask if the price quoted includes all taxes and insurance -- and be sure to take full insurance if your credit card does not provide it. Tip: It is almost always cheaper to book a car with an international agency from abroad, not from within Greece.
By Boat -- It's possible to take ferries and boats from Thessaloniki to a number of Aegean islands (including Crete, Santorini, and Mykonos) and to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos, and Alonissos). Many travel agents around Plateia Eleftherias and Aristotelous Square sell ferry tickets. Centrally located agencies include Polaris Travel, 81 Egnatiou (tel. 2310/276-051), and Zorpidis Travel, 4 Salaminos (tel. 2310/555-955; www.zorpidis.gr). The harbor police/port authorities can be reached at tel. 2310/531-504 (to -507). The website for Greek Travel Pages (www.gtp.gr) is also useful for boat schedules.
Fast Facts
Currency Exchange & ATMs -- All banks exchange currency, as do most hotels and the central post office. The major banks along Tsimiski and Aristoteleos Square have ATMs. Remember that ATMs are often not stocked on holidays lasting several days and during bank strikes.
Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Consulate (tel. 2310/242-905 or 2310/260-716) is at 43 Tsimiski. It offers a bare minimum of services. The UK/Commonwealth Honorary Consul is at 8 Venizelou (tel. 2310/278-006 or 2310/269-984), by appointment only.
Emergencies -- The police hot line is tel. 100; for nonurgent help, call tel. 2310/863-393. For first aid, call tel. 166. For car breakdowns, call tel. 104 (the Greek Automobile Touring Club, or ELPA). Also try the tourist police, 4 Dodekanisou, near the eastern end of Tsimiski (tel. 2310/554-870 or 2310/554-871).
Hospitals -- The main hospital is the Ippokration (tel. 2310/892-2000 or 2310/837-921) at 50 Papanastasiou; doctors who speak some English are usually available.
Internet Access -- Thessaloniki has many Internet cafes, including centrally located e-Global, 117 Egnatia (tel. 2310/887-711), and Meganet, 5 Plateia Navarino (tel. 2310/269-591). By the time you visit, much of the city center should have Wi-Fi.
Newspapers & Magazines -- English-language publications are available at several kiosks in Aristotelous Square and along Tsimiski.
Pharmacies -- Pharmacies alternate late-night hours. Lists and addresses of the ones open on a particular night can be found in the local newspapers and the windows of all pharmacies.
Police -- The 24-hour emergency number is tel. 100. The tourist police number is tel. 2310/554-870 or 2310/554-871.
Post Office -- The main post office is at 26 Aristotelous (tel. 2310/278-924). Hours are Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 8pm, Saturday from 7:30am to 2pm, and Sunday from 9am to 1:30pm.
Restrooms -- All but the smallest eateries and bars have restrooms that you can request to use without embarrassment. Carrying some tissues with you is always a good idea.
Safety -- Thessaloniki is a very safe city, although the influx of a rough element in recent years means that obvious tourists should exercise the usual big-city caution, especially at night, or if surrounded by a group asking directions (often pickpockets). The only area absolutely to avoid is around Vardaris (Dimokratias) Square, which attracts some shady characters.
