Everyone comes to this meze restaurant—tourists, nearby shop owners, the men who sit at the outside table for hours chatting (and play the bouzouki on weekends). Set on a quiet street beside a medieval Turkish bathhouse, O Loutros serves Politiki specialties (such as baked tuna and cuttlefish in wine sauce) and does them exceedingly well. Dishes are unusual and tasty; so is the owner's barrel retsina (pine resin) wine—give it a try, along with an Eastern-style dessert.