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In Hora, Megaloharis is the main street from the harbor up to the cathedral. My two favorite shops in town are on Megalocharis: Enosis, a few steps up from the harbor, is the shop of the local agricultural cooperative, where pungent capers, creamy cheeses, olive oil, and the fiery local tsiporo liqueur are on sale (tel. 22830/21-184). If you like capers, stock up on a vacuum pack or two; I got mine safely back to Massachusetts and enjoyed them for months. Continue to 34 Megalocharis and you'll find Nostos (tel. 22830/22-208). Everything here -- the ceramics, wood work, jewelry, weavings -- is handmade, and just about everything will make you start plotting how you can fit it into your suitcase. The owner, Litsa Malliari Toufekli, is a painter and many of her haunting scenes of Tinos, done on old wood panels, are on view.

Pedestrianized Evangelistria Street parallels Megalocharis Street. Shops and stalls lining Evangelistria Street sell icons, incense, candles, medallions, tamata (tin, silver, and gold votives), and various stuffed animals that nod, roll over, mew, and squeal. You'll also find local embroidery, weavings, and a delicious local nougat, as well as loukoumia (Turkish delight) from Siros.

Two fine jewelry shops stand side by side on Evangelistria: Artemis, 18 Evangelistria (tel. 22830/23-781), and Harris Prassas Ostria-Tinos, 20 Evangelistria (tel. 22830/23-893; fax 22830/24-568). Both have jewelry in contemporary, Byzantine, and classical styles; silverwork; and religious objects, including reproductions of the miraculous icon. Near the top of the street, on the left, in a neoclassical building, the small Evangelismos Biotechni Shop, the outlet of a local weaving school (tel. 22830/22-894), sells reasonably priced table and bed linens, embroidered aprons, and rugs.

Weekdays, a Marko's fish market and a farmers' market set up in the square by the docks. Keep an eye out for the rather pink-plumed pelican (Marko himself ) who lives at the fish market and usually takes a morning stroll from there through the farmers' market to St. Anthony's Catholic church and back. Once back, he often takes a dip in his pool outside the fish market. There's a Palamidis supermarket, on the harbor, and an even larger one is just outside Tinos town, on the road to Pirgos.

You can get English-language newspapers in the narrow street that parallels (to the extent that anything in Tinos runs straight enough to be said to parallel anything else!) restaurant row, with the Metaxi Mas, Palaia Pallada, and Aithrio restaurants).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.