To the west of the center, running alongside Tisvilde Hegn, one of Denmark's largest forests, is a 1.2km (3/4-mile) stretch of white sandy beaches lapped by clean salty waters and fringed by dunes and woodland. The surroundings here are exceptionally clean and unspoiled. Volunteers work to see that this whole area of coastline is the most thoroughly inspected and litter-free in Denmark. A blue flag flies over the beach, meaning that the waters are not polluted.

In town you can visit Tibirke Kirke, Tibirke Kirkevej (tel. 48-70-77-85), which is open Monday to Saturday 8am to 4pm, with Sunday devoted to a church service. Admission is free. This church was probably built around 1120 on a pagan site. In the latter part of the 14th century, it was enlarged and the nave provided with arches. At that time, the small Roman windows were replaced with larger Gothic ones. In the middle of the 15th century, a larger choir also replaced the original one. The tower was built during the first half of the 16th century, but has been reconstructed many times since. During a period of terrible sand drifts, the church was laid waste. But it was eventually restored, and in 1740 a baroque altarpiece was added, with a picture by J. F. Kr├╝gell depicting the Last Supper.

At the foot of the church is a spring that may have been the place where pilgrims came in olden days.

Tisvilde Hegn is enchanting and usually windblown. The forest is crossed with many trails, our favorite being a dirt path south to Troldeskoven, a distance of about 2.5km (1.5 miles). Nordic winds have turned the trees into "sculptures" of rather haunting shapes -- one is called "Witch Wood." The tourist office will provide trail maps.

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