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Tlaxcala has several restaurants beneath the stone arches (portales) on the east side of the zócalo. One of them, Los Portales (no phone) has handmade corn tortillas all day and makes good breakfasts. Just across the small Plaza Xicoténcatl, at Calle Independencia 7-A, is Tirol (tel. 246/462-3754), a restaurant serving several regional specialties and traditional dishes.

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