For an authentic Umbrian experience, it’s hard to beat this medieval castle and its walled hamlet in the countryside outside Todi. Part of the business here is an excellent restaurant, the Il Re Beve (the King Quaffs), one of the region’s best, where meals are served in front of a roaring fire in winter (meats are roasted over the coals) and on a geranium-filled terrace overlooking fields of sunflowers in warm weather; you can also dine on request in some subterranean chambers reached through secret tunnels. A vast, vaulted suite in the castle keep is the most atmospheric accommodation, exuding medieval atmosphere in every brick and stone, except in the luxurious 21st-century bathroom with a hydro massage shower for two. Rustic yet extremely comfortable apartments scattered throughout the attached hamlet are multilevel, sleep as many as six, and face the well-kept gardens and pool or overlook the countryside. Weekly rates are available, as are nightly rates with dinner included.