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There are many attributes of this fine, contemporary hotel that win me over, starting with the large sumi-e (Japanese brush painting) in the lobby by one of my favorite Japanese artists, Toko Shinoda, just one of 23 leading Japanese craftsmen with artwork gracing the hotel. It also has one of the city's largest spa and fitness centers, occupying the entire 29th floor with 10 treatment rooms, including a couple's room with a hinoki (cypress) tub, a 25-meter pool (with a sumi-e design on the bottom, naturally), and a gym with aerobics, yoga, and other classes. But it's what's outside the hotel that makes this property special: fantastic views over Hama Riku Garden of Tokyo Bay and Odaiba. Rooms are large, starting at 48m (516 sq. ft.). The cheapest face the city, but because views are the hotel's outstanding feature, I think it's worth splurging for bayside rooms, which take full advantage of those panoramic views with couches that extend the entire length of the wall-to-wall window and are great places to relax with the morning newspaper or evening drink. All rooms have bathrooms designed for two people, from the dual wash basins to the roomy freestanding tub. There are several options for fine dining, but most impressive is China Blue for its contemporary Cantonese cuisine and sweeping views over the bay. Located a short walk from the Ginza and Shiodome, it's surrounded by office buildings housing mostly TV and advertising conglomerates, which perhaps explains why half of Conrad's guests are international travelers, the majority of them American.