This hotel is located in the shitamachi (old downtown) area of Ueno where commoners once lived, but guests won't sacrifice style or comfort to stay here. Across the street from the south end of Shinobazu Pond and an easy walk from Ueno Park and Ueno's Keisei Station with direct service from Narita Airport, it has an upbeat, boutiquelike atmosphere, with a welcoming gas fireplace in the lobby; a cake shop that draws in Japanese women; public baths; and small but chic rooms, many with views of the pond and decorated in splashes of bright colors. Rooms are mostly small singles, but even the cheapest are snazzy and perfectly fine. There are also doubles and twins, including two Park View Doubles with views of the pond and Zen Twins, which impart an air of traditional Japan with their raised beds on tatami and shoji-like window coverings. The best room in the house is the Villa Suite Twin, which feels like an exotic getaway with its private outdoor terrace outfitted with Jacuzzi, sofa, and TV, plus a steam room and bathroom tub big enough for two. The website is only in Japanese, but it does have photos of rooms. There’s a public bath and a sauna.