I've been a Golden Gai regular for more than 30 years and have seen its metamorphosis from a mysterious hidden enclave accessible only to Japanese customers to a boarded-up place on the brink of extinction to the thriving hotspot it is today. The 170 or so miniature establishments packed into Goruden Gai attract a healthy mix of Japanese and foreigners, young and old, straight and gay, and it's fun to just walk around and see where the night takes you. For a recommendation, however, Albatross has been around for a while, with a mostly young clientele and an eclectic decor that ranges from chandeliers to a deer head. You'll have to squeeze in to find a seat, either at the counter or up the narrow stairs to one of two Lilliputian levels above. Once settled, you'll find it has a very welcoming vibe. There’s a ¥500 snack charge per person. Open daily 7pm to 5am.