Planning a trip to Tokyo

Entry Requirements & Customs

Note: As of 2007, all foreigners entering Japan are fingerprinted and photographed in a measure to prevent terrorism, despite the fact that terrorism in Japan has been mostly homegrown. Exceptions include children younger than 16, diplomats, and some permanent residents of Japan.

Passports

For most tourists, including those from the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom, the only document necessary to enter Japan is a passport.

For information on obtaining passports, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100; or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Passport Savvy -- Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place, such as a money belt, and keep a photocopy of your passport's information page in your luggage. If you lose your passport, visit your nearest consulate as soon as possible for a replacement. Note: All foreigners must present their passports for photocopying when checking into lodging facilities. In addition, foreigners are required to carry with them at all times either their passports or, for those who have been granted longer stays, their alien registration cards. Police generally do not stop foreigners, but if you're caught without an ID, you'll be taken to local police headquarters. It happened to me once, and believe me, I can think of better ways to spend an hour and a half than explaining in detail who I am, what I am doing in Japan, where I live, and what I plan to do for the rest of my life. I even had to write a statement explaining why I rushed out that day without my passport, apologizing and promising never to do such a thoughtless thing again. The policemen were polite and were simply doing their duty.

Visas

Foreign visitors from many countries can enter Japan without a visa for purposes of tourism. Americans, Australians, and New Zealanders traveling to Japan as tourists for a stay of 90 days or less need only a valid passport to gain entry into the country. Canadians don't need a visa for stays of up to 3 months, and United Kingdom and Irish citizens can stay up to 6 months without a visa.

Customs

If you're 20 or older, you can bring duty-free into Japan up to 400 non-Japanese cigarettes or 500 grams of tobacco or 100 cigars; three bottles (760cc each) of alcohol; and 2 ounces of perfume. You can also bring in goods for personal use that were purchased abroad whose total market value is less than ¥200,000.

What You Can Take Home from Tokyo -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult the website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Japan. Note, however, that at press time, all passengers arriving at Narita Airport are requested to fill out a questionnaire in-flight regarding symptoms of the H1N1 influenza, such as fever or coughing. In addition, the temperature of all arriving passengers is taken upon entering the customs area; if you have a fever, you may be quarantined as a protection against H1N1 or avian flu.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call Tokyo from outside Japan: First, dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia. Next, dial the country code for Japan, 81. Finally, dial the city code for Tokyo, 3, and then the number.

Domestic calls: If you're calling Tokyo from outside Tokyo but within Japan, the area code for Tokyo is 03.

Despite the proliferation of cellphones, you can still find public telephones in telephone booths on the sidewalk, in or near train stations, in hotel lobbies, and in restaurants and coffee shops. A local call costs ¥10 for each minute; a warning chime will ring to tell you to insert more coins or you'll be disconnected. I usually insert two or three coins at the start so that I won't have to worry about being disconnected; ¥10 coins that aren't used are returned at the end of the call. Most public phones accept both ¥10 and ¥100 coins. The latter is convenient for long-distance calls, but no change is given for unused minutes. All gray ISDN telephones are equipped for international calls and have dataports for Internet access.

If you think you'll be making a lot of domestic calls from public telephones and don't want to deal with coins, purchase a magnetic prepaid telephone card. These are available in a value of ¥1,000 and are sold at vending machines (sometimes located right beside telephones), station kiosks, and convenience stores. Green and gray telephones accept telephone cards. In fact, many nowadays accept telephone cards exclusively. Insert the card into the slot. On the gray ISDN telephones, there's a second slot for a second telephone card, which is convenient if the first one is almost used up or if you think you'll be talking a long time. Domestic long-distance calls are cheaper at night, on weekends, and on national holidays for calls of distances more than 60km (37 miles).

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 0120 or 0088 are toll-free. Calling a 1-800 number in the U.S. from Japan is not toll-free and costs the same as an international call.

To make international calls: For a collect call or to place an operator-assisted call through KDDI, dial the international telephone operator at tel. 0051. From a public telephone, look for a specially marked INTERNATIONAL AND DOMESTIC CARD/COIN TELEPHONE. Although many of the specially marked green or gray telephones, the most common public telephones, accept both coins and magnetic telephone cards for domestic calls, most in Tokyo do not accept magnetic cards for direct overseas calls (due to illegal usage of telephone cards), except for those in a few key facilities like the airport and some hotels. You'll therefore either have to use coins or purchase a special prepaid international telephone card that works like telephone cards issued by U.S. telephone companies. That is, an access number must first be dialed, followed by a secret telephone number, and then the number you wish to dial. Such cards are often sold from vending machines next to telephone booths in hotels or in convenience stores such as Sunkus, Circle K, Family Mart, or Lawson. There are numerous such cards (with instructions in English), including the rechargeable Brastel Smart Phonecard (tel. 0120/659-543; www.brastel.com), which charges ¥49 to ¥54 per minute from a payphone to a landline in the U.S. or United Kingdom; or the KDDI Super World Card (tel. 0057; www.kddi.com), which gives approximately 21 minutes of weekday talk time to the U.S. on its ¥1,000 card. Some hotels have special phones equipped to accept credit cards.

International rates vary according to when you call, which telephone company you use, and what type of service you use. Direct-dial service is cheaper than operator-assisted calls. The cheapest time to call is between 11pm and 8am Japan time, while the most expensive time is weekdays from 8am to 7pm.

If you're not using a prepaid card (which has its own set of instructions and access numbers), to make a direct-dial international call, you must first dial one of the international access codes offered by the various telephone companies -- 001 (KDDI), 0033 (NTT Communications), or 0061 (Softbank Telecom) -- followed by 010, and then the country code. The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for the United Kingdom, it's 44; for Australia, it's 61; and for New Zealand, it's 64. Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., using KDDI you would dial 001-010-1-202-588-6500. If you're dialing from your hotel room, you must first dial for an outside line, usually 0.

If you wish to be connected with an operator in your home country, you can do so from green international telephones by dialing tel. 0039 followed by the country code. (For the United States, dial tel. 0039-111.) These calls can be used for collect calls or credit card calls. Some hotels and other public places are equipped with special phones that will link you to your home operator with the push of a button, and there are instructions in English.

If you have a U.S. calling card, ask your phone company for the direct access number from Japan that will link you directly to the United States. If you have AT&T, for example, dial tel. 00539-111 to place calls using KDDI or tel. 00665-5111 to use Softbank Telecom.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). Unfortunately, Japan uses a system that is incompatible with GSM. You can, however, use your own mobile phone number in Japan by bringing your own SIM card from home and inserting it into a handset rented from Softbank Global Rental or NTT DoCoMo. It only works, however, if your home service provider has a roaming agreement with Softbank or NTT. For more information, contact your mobile phone company, NTT DoCoMo (http://roaming.nttdocomo.co.jp), or Softbank Global Rental (www.softbank-rental.jp), where you can also find out about rental costs and rental locations and make online reservations. Another option is to bring your own mobile phone and rent a SIM card from Softbank.

Otherwise, if you want to have a telephone number before arriving in Japan, consider renting a phone before leaving home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or Roadpost (tel. 888/290-1606; www.roadpost.com).

You can also rent a phone in Japan (unfortunately, foreign visitors are not allowed to buy cellphones in Japan). If you're in Japan for only a few days and are staying in an upper-class hotel, most convenient but most expensive is to rent a mobile phone from your hotel. A check of several hotels in Tokyo turned up rental fees ranging from ¥600 to ¥1,200 per day (the more expensive the hotel, the more expensive the rental). I suggest, therefore, that you rent a phone at Narita Airport. Lots of companies maintain counters at both terminals, including NTT DoCoMo and Softbank Global Rental, as well as G-Call (www.g-call.com/e), Telecom Square (www.telecomsquare.co.jp), and PuPuRu (www.pupuru.com), which have the extra convenience of easy pickup and drop-off and offer online reservations. Most rentals start at ¥525 per day, though bargains are often offered online or on-site. Charges for domestic and international calls vary, but incoming calls are usually free.

For travelers staying in Japan a week or longer, Go Mobile (www.gomobile.co.jp) offers 1-week, 2-week, and 30-day rentals, including a limited number of free local calls. A 1-week rental costs ¥2,995 and includes 15 minutes of free local calls. Phones are shipped to an address in Japan (such as your hotel) and returned via a prepaid, pre-addressed envelope.

Voice-over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com).

Internet & E-Mail

Without your own computer: Cybercafes are growing in number. In any case, avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates, though some accommodations provide a computer in the lobby that guests can use for free.

The best place to set up a temporary office in Tokyo is at the sophisticated Gran Cyber Café Bagus, on the 12th floor of the Roi Building, 5-5-1 Roppongi (tel. 03/5786-2280; station: Roppongi). Open 24 hours, it offers individual cubicles with prices that depend on the chair you select: ¥500 the first hour for a straight-back chair, ¥530 for a recliner, and ¥600 for a massage chair. Unsurprisingly, given Tokyo's high taxi prices, it also offers a "night pack" in a reclining chair, available for a maximum of 6 hours between 11pm and 8am for ¥1,450, as well as -- brace yourself -- booths for couples. A "Ladies Only" section is also available. Another 24-hour Gran Cyber Café Bagus is located in Shibuya, on the seventh floor of the HMV music store at 24-1 Udagawacho (tel. 03/5456-8922).

For free access, try Marunouchi Café, located on the tree-lined Marunouchi Naka Dori avenue in the Shin Tokyo Building, 3-3-1 Marunouchi (tel. 03/3212-5025; stations: Marunouchi or Tokyo), with six computers available Monday to Friday 8am to 9pm and Saturday and Sunday 11am to 8pm (you'll need to show a photo ID, such as a passport). Or try the Apple Store, Ginza, 3-5-12 Ginza (tel. 03/5159-8200; station: Ginza), with approximately five Macs on the 4th floor available daily from 10am to 9pm. Note that waits can be long.

Although expensive, Kinko's has more than 30 locations throughout Tokyo, including one at Tokyo Station at the Yaesu north exit (tel. 03/3213-1811). Most are open 24 hours and charge ¥210 per 10 minutes of computer time.

With your own computer: With the exception of some budget hotels, virtually all hotels in Tokyo provide Internet access in guest rooms. While most provide high-speed dataports, more and more are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity). I'm also happy to report that more and more are also offering Internet connections for free. Otherwise, expect to pay anywhere from ¥500 to ¥1,050.

Wherever you go, bring a phone cord and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests (many do, for free).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Tokyo can be a nightmare for travelers with disabilities. City sidewalks can be so jam-packed that getting around on crutches or in a wheelchair is exceedingly difficult.

Although most train and subway stations have elevators, they are often difficult to locate. A few stations are accessible only by stairs or escalators, but in recent years some have been equipped with powered seat lifts. While some buses are now no-step conveyances for easy access, subway and train compartments are difficult for solo wheelchair travelers to navigate on their own due to a gap or slight height difference between the coaches and platforms. In theory, you can ask a station attendant to help you board, though you might have to wait if he's busy; you can also request that someone at your destination help you disembark. Finally, although trains and buses have seating for passengers with disabilities, subways can be so crowded that there's barely room to move. Moreover, these seats are almost always occupied by commuters -- so unless it's obvious that you have a physical disability, no one is likely to offer you a seat.

As for accommodations, most expensive hotels have at least one or two barrier-free rooms (sometimes called a "universal" room in Japan), though lower-priced hotels and Japanese inns generally do not. Lower-priced accommodations may also lack elevators. In a positive move, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government provides subsidies to hotels wishing to upgrade their facilities to make them more accessible for people with physical disabilities; for a list of accommodations that have received the subsides and to see the work they've accomplished, go to www.tourism.metro.tokyo/jp/English/administration/barrier_free/barrierlist.html.

Restaurants can also be difficult to navigate, with raised doorsills, crowded dining areas, and tiny bathrooms that cannot accommodate wheelchairs. Best bets for ramps and easily accessible restrooms include restaurants in department stores and upper-end hotels. Even Japanese homes are not very accessible, since the main floor is traditionally raised about a foot above the entrance-hall floor.

For information on traveling in Japan with a wheelchair, see Accessible Japan at www.tesco-premium.co.jp/aj/index.htm. It gives limited information on a handful of sights and hotels that offer facilities for people with disabilities.

When it comes to facilities for the blind, Japan has a very advanced system. At subway stations and on many major sidewalks in Tokyo, raised dots and lines on the ground guide blind people through intersections and subway platforms. In some cities, streetlights chime a theme when the signal turns green east-west, and chime another for north-south. Even Japanese yen notes are identified by a slightly raised area in their top corners -- the ¥1,000 note has one circle in a corner, while the ¥10,000 note has two. And finally, many elevators have floors indicated in Braille, and some hotels identify rooms in Braille.

Tips for Families

The Japanese are very fond of children, which makes traveling in Japan with kids a delight. All social reserve seems to be waived for children. Taking along some small and easy-to-carry gifts (such as colorful stickers) for your kids to give to other children is a great icebreaker.

Safety also makes Japan a good destination for families. Still, plan your itinerary with care. To avoid crowds, visit tourist sights on weekdays. Never travel on city transportation during rush hour or on trains during popular public holidays. And remember that with all the stairways and crowded sidewalks, strollers are less practical than baby backpacks. Many of Tokyo's major hotels provide babysitting services, although they are prohibitively expensive. Expect to fork over a minimum of ¥5,000 for 2 hours of babysitting.

Children 6 to 11 years old are generally charged half-price for everything from temple admission to train tickets, while children 5 and under are often admitted free. Tourist spots in Japan almost always have a table or counter with a stamp and inkpad so that visitors can commemorate their trip; you might wish to give your children a small notebook so that they can collect imprints of every attraction they visit.

If your child under 6 sleeps in the same bed with you, you generally won't have to pay for him or her in most ryokan (a Japanese-style inn), and some hotels don't charge extra for children. However, it's always advisable to ask in advance.

As for dining, most family-style restaurants, especially those in department stores, offer a special children's meal that often includes a small toy or souvenir. For those real emergencies, Western fast-food places, such as McDonald's and KFC, are everywhere in Tokyo.

The Best for Families

Learning History at the Edo-Tokyo Museum: Housed in a high-tech modern building, this ambitious museum chronicles the fascinating and somewhat tumultuous history of Tokyo (known as Edo during the Feudal Era) with models, replicas, artifacts, and dioramas. Not only can children climb into a palanquin and a rickshaw, but volunteers stand ready to give free guided tours in English. 

Spending Sunday in the Park: Parks are popular Sunday destinations for families with kids and young couples on dates, making for great people-watching and a restorative afternoon. Among my favorites: Ueno Park (where you’ll also find the nation’s oldest zoo) and Yoyogi Park in Tokyo and the extensive park surrounding Osaka Castle. 

Hanging Out in Harajuku: For teens and tweens, nothing beats a day in teenybopper heaven, with its many clothing and accessory stores lining narrow streets packed with a never-ending flow of humanity. Lots of restaurants in this vibrant Tokyo neighborhood are geared to the younger generation, too, but for a bit of culture (and quietude), head to nearby Meiji Shrine, enveloped in woods.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Tokyo may be crowded and land may be scarce, but it's certainly clean and cared for. Littering is rare in Japan, and Japanese are taught practically at birth about separating trash for recycling. You can do your part by depositing all your trash -- newspapers, plastic water bottles, cans -- into the appropriate recycle bins found in parks, subway stations, and other public places.

Other actions you can take include refusing extra packaging at department stores (which may otherwise wrap your purchase and then place it in a shopping bag), carrying your own chopsticks (in cheap restaurants they are likely to be disposable), reusing your towels and sheets in hotels, and opting for public transportation over taxis.

Luckily for a megalopolis this size, public transportation is efficient and most people I know in Tokyo don't own a car. Japan is no newcomer to the idea of hybrids, however, with Toyota introducing the Prius many years back and Honda's Insight now the best-selling car in Japan.

For a look at sustainability in Japan and grass-root organizations, or to get involved, go to www.greenz.jp.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resource for Tokyo listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Money

Frommer's lists prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

There's no getting around it: Tokyo is among the most expensive cities in the world (according to Economist.com, it was the world's most expensive city in February 2009). Hopefully, this guide will help reduce some potential costs by showing you how to take advantage of deals on public transportation, dine more cheaply, and see some of Tokyo's sights with reduced admission.

In any case, you'll probably want to arrive in Tokyo with cash, credit cards, and maybe even traveler's checks. Luckily, it's much easier to obtain yen than it used to be even just a decade ago.

Currency

The currency in Japan is called the yen, denoted by ¥. Coins come in denominations of ¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100, and ¥500. Bills come in denominations of ¥1,000, ¥2,000, ¥5,000, and ¥10,000, though ¥2,000 notes are rarely seen. All coins get used (though you may find it hard to get rid of ¥1 coins).

Some people like to arrive in a foreign country with that country's currency already in hand, but I do not find it necessary for Tokyo. Narita Airport has several exchange counters for all incoming international flights that offer better exchange rates than what you'd get abroad, as well as ATMs. Change enough money to last several days, since exchanging money is not as convenient in Japan as it is in many other countries. And remember, Tokyo is one of the most expensive cities in the world.

Personal checks are not used in Japan. Most Japanese pay with credit cards or cash -- the country's overall crime rate is so low, you can feel safe walking around with money (but always exercise caution). The only exception is on a crowded subway during rush hour or in heavily touristed areas such as Tsukiji or Asakusa. Although the bulk of your expenses -- hotels, major purchases, meals in classier restaurants -- can be paid for with credit cards, bring traveler's checks for those times when you might not have convenient access to an ATM for cash withdrawals, especially outside Tokyo in more rural areas.

ATMs

The best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). Because most ATMs in Japan accept only cards issued by Japanese banks, your best bet for obtaining cash is a 7-Eleven convenience store, most of which are open 24 hours and have ATMs that accept foreign bank cards operating on the Cirrus (www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) systems, as well as American Express. Another good bet is a post office, though ATM machines located at every post office in Japan may be operable only during limited hours (depending on the post office, that may be until 6 or 7pm weekdays and until 5pm on weekends).

Other places with ATMs that might accept foreign-issued cards include most Citibanks (which usually accept cards on the PLUS and Cirrus systems, as well as Visa and MasterCard and sometimes American Express, but note that not all foreign cards may be accepted), large department stores, and Narita Airport. Note that there is no public American Express office in Japan.

Be sure you know your four-digit personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before leaving home. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. Because Tokyo is expensive and because there is a limit to how much money you can withdraw with each transaction, you'll find these bank fees especially annoying here. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money, provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your 4-digit PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

The most readily accepted cards in Japan are American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard (also called Eurocard), Visa, and the Japanese credit card JCB (Japan Credit Bank). Shops and restaurants accepting credit and charge cards will usually post which cards they accept at the door or near the cash register (you can even use credit cards to pay for taxis). However, smaller establishments may be reluctant to accept cards for minor purchases and inexpensive meals, so inquire beforehand. In addition, note that the vast majority of Tokyo's least expensive businesses, including noodle shops, fast-food joints, ma-and-pa establishments, and the cheapest accommodations, often do not accept credit cards.

Traveler's Checks

Although traveler's checks are something of an anachronism now that ATMs have come onto the scene, traveler's checks are still useful in Japan. Traveler's checks generally fetch a better exchange rate than cash and also offer protection in case of theft; you'll need your passport to exchange traveler's checks. Note, however, that in some very remote areas, even banks won't cash them. Before taking off for small towns, be sure you have enough cash.

You can get traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

In Tokyo, all banks displaying an AUTHORIZED FOREIGN EXCHANGE sign can exchange currency and traveler's checks, with exchange rates usually displayed at the appropriate foreign-exchange counter. Banks are generally open Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm, though business hours for exchanging foreign currency usually don't begin until 10:30 or 11am (be prepared for a long wait; you'll be asked to sit down as your order is processed).

More convenient -- and quicker -- are Travelex foreign-exchange kiosks, with several locations across town, including one in Hibiya at 1-5-2 Yurakucho (tel. 03/5157-8311; station: Hibiya or Yurakucho), open Monday to Friday from 10am to 6pm; Tokyo Station (tel. 03/5220-5021), open daily from 9am to 8pm; 3rd floor of Tokyo Midtown Tower, 9-7-1 Akasaka (tel. 03/3408-2280; station: Roppongi), open from Monday to Friday from 11am to 7pm and Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Other locations are in Shinjuku, Shibuya, Shimbashi, Akasaka, and Odaiba. See www.travelex.com for more information.

If you need to exchange money outside of the hours above, inquire at your hotel. Likewise, large department stores also offer exchange services and are often open until 8pm. Note, however, that hotels and department stores may charge a handling fee and offer a slightly less favorable exchange rate.

Calendar of Events

Because Japan has two major religions, Shintoism and Buddhism, it celebrates festivals throughout the year. Every major shrine and temple observes at least one annual festival with events that might include traditional dances, colorful processions, and booths selling souvenirs and food. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year's Day, nationwide. The most important national holiday in Japan, this is a time of family reunions and gatherings with friends to drink sake and eat special New Year's dishes. Because the Japanese spend this day with families, and because almost all businesses, restaurants, shops, and museums are closed, it's not a particularly rewarding time of the year for foreign visitors. The best bets are shrines and temples such as Meiji Jingu and Sensoji Temple, where Japanese come dressed in their best (many wear traditional kimono) to pray for good health and happiness in the coming year. January 1.

Dezomeshiki (New Year's Parade of Firemen), Tokyo Big Sight, Odaiba, Tokyo. This annual event features agile firemen in traditional costumes who prove their worth with acrobatic stunts atop tall bamboo ladders. January 6.

Coming-of-Age Day, a national holiday. This day honors young people who have reached the age of 20, when they are allowed to vote, drink alcohol, and assume other responsibilities. They visit shrines to pray for their future; in Tokyo, the most popular shrine is Meiji Shrine. Many women wear traditional kimono. Second Monday in January.

Sumo Tournament, Kokugikan (sumo stadium), Tokyo (www.sumo.or.jp; take the JR or Oedo Line to Ryogoku Station). One of three Grand Tournaments held in Tokyo, held for 15 consecutive days in mid-January.

February

Setsubun (Bean-Throwing Festival), at leading temples throughout Japan. This festival celebrates the last day of winter according to the lunar calendar. People throng to temples to participate in the traditional ceremony of throwing soybeans to drive away imaginary devils and welcome spring. In Tokyo, popular sites include Kanda Myojin Shrine, Hie Shrine, and Sensoji Temple. February 3 or 4.

National Foundation Day (Kigensetsu), a national holiday. It celebrates the founding of Japan by Emperor Jimmy in 660 B.C. February 11.

March

Hinamatsuri (Doll Festival), observed throughout Japan. This festival is held in honor of young girls to wish them a future of happiness. In homes where there are girls, dolls dressed in ancient costumes representing the emperor, empress, and dignitaries are set up on a tier of shelves, along with miniature household articles. Many hotels also showcase doll displays in their lobbies. March 3.

Daruma Ichi Doll Festival, Jindaiji Temple (take the Keio Line to Tsutsujigaoka Station). A daruma is a legless, pear-shaped doll modeled after Bodhidharma, who founded the Zen sect in the 6th century and is said to have lost the use of his limbs from sitting 9 years in the lotus position on the way to enlightenment. Stalls here sell daruma with blank spots for eyes -- according to custom, you're supposed to paint in one eye while making a wish; when your wish is fulfilled, you paint in the other eye. March 3 and 4.

Vernal Equinox Day, a national holiday. Throughout the week, Buddhist temples hold ceremonies to pray for the souls of the departed. March 20.

Sakura Matsuri (Cherry-Blossom Season). The bursting forth of cherry blossoms represents the birth of spring for Tokyoites, who gather en masse under the trees to drink sake, eat, and be merry. Popular cherry-viewing spots in Tokyo include Ueno Park, Yasukuni Shrine, Shinjuku Gyoen, Aoyama Bochi Cemetery, Sumida Koen Park in Asakusa, and the moat encircling the Imperial Palace, especially Chidorigafuchi Park. Late March to early April.

Tokyo International Anime Fair, Tokyo Big Sight, Odaiba (www.tokyoanime.jp). One of the world's largest Japanese animation events draws more than 100 production companies, TV and film agencies, toy and game software companies, publishers, and other anime-related companies. Usually last weekend in March.

April

Kanamara Matsuri, Kanayama Shrine, Kawasaki (just outside Tokyo). This festival extols the joys of sex and fertility (and, more recently, raised awareness about AIDS), featuring a parade of giant phalluses, some carried by transvestites. Needless to say, it's not your average festival, and you can get some unusual photographs here. First Sunday in April.

Buddha's Birthday (also called Hana Matsuri, or Floral Festival), nationwide. Ceremonies are held at every Buddhist temple, where a small image of Buddha is displayed and doused with a sweet tea called amacha in an act of devotion. April 8.

Asakusa Yabusama (Horseback Archery), Sumida Koen Park, Asakusa. Marksmen in traditional costume show their prowess in archery while galloping on horses. A Saturday in mid-April.

Kamakura Matsuri, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine in Kamakura. The festival honors heroes from the past, including Yoritomo Minamoto, who made Kamakura his shogunate capital back in 1192. Highlights include horseback archery (truly spectacular to watch), a parade of portable shrines, and sacred dances. Second to third Sunday in April.

Yayoi Matsuri, Futarasan Shrine in Nikko. Featured is a parade of gaily decorated floats. April 16 and 17.

Showa Day, a national holiday. Named after Emperor Showa and celebrated on his birthday. April 29.

Golden Week, a major holiday period nationwide. It's a crowded time to travel, so making reservations is a must. Because so many factories and businesses close during the week, this is said to be the best time of year for a clear view of the city and beyond from atop Tokyo's tallest buildings. April 29 to May 5.

May

Constitution Memorial Day, a national holiday. The Japanese Constitution went into effect on this day in 1947. May 3.

Greenery Day, a national holiday. A new holiday, established in 2007, to promote and appreciate nature. May 4.

Children's Day, a national holiday. This festival is for all children but especially honors young boys. Throughout Japan, colorful streamers of carp are flown from poles to symbolize perseverance and strength, considered desirable attributes for young boys. May 5.

Sumo Tournament, Kokugikan (sumo stadium), Tokyo (www.sumo.or.jp; take the JR or Oedo Line to Ryogoku Station). One of three Grand Tournaments held in Tokyo, held for 15 consecutive days in mid-May.

Kanda Myojin Festival, Kanda Myojin Shrine, Ochanomizu, Suehirocho or Akihabara station (www.kandamyoujin.or.jp/English/top.html). This festival, which commemorates Tokugawa Ieyasu's famous victory at Sekigahara in 1600, began during the Feudal Period as the only time townspeople could enter the shogun's castle and parade before him. Today, this major Tokyo festival features a parade of dozens of portable shrines carried through the district, plus geisha dances and a tea ceremony. Held in odd-numbered years (with a smaller festival held in even-numbered years) on the Saturday and Sunday closest to May 15.

Grand Spring Festival of Toshogu Shrine, in Nikko. Commemorating the day in 1617 when Tokugawa Ieyasu's remains were brought to his mausoleum in Nikko, this festival re-creates that drama, with more than 1,000 armor-clad men escorting three palanquins through the streets. May 17 and 18.

Design Festa, Tokyo Big Sight. Tokyo's biggest (and quirkiest) international art exhibition (www.designfesta.com) takes place biannually (2010, 2012, 2014, and so on), in May and October or November, with more than 8,500 artists from more than 30 countries working in mediums ranging from art and fashion to design, film, and music. Impromptu street performances, stalls with working artists, theaters and indoor and outdoor stages provide lots of entertainment. Mid-May.

Sanja Matsuri, Asakusa Shrine. This is one of Tokyo's best-known and most colorful festivals, featuring a parade of 100 portable shrines carried through the streets of Asakusa on the shoulders of men and women dressed in traditional garb. Third Sunday and preceding Friday and Saturday of May.

June

Sanno Matsuri, Hie Shrine, Akasaka (Tameike-sanno Station). One of Tokyo's largest, this first began in the Edo Period as a festival in which the shogun permitted participants to enter the grounds of Edo Castle. It features the usual portable shrines transported through the busy streets of the Akasaka district and more than 300 people dressed in ancient costumes. June 10 to 16.

July

Tanabata (Star Festival), celebrated throughout Japan. According to myth, the two stars Vega and Altair, representing a weaver and a shepherd, are allowed to meet only once a year, on this day. If the skies are cloudy, however, the celestial pair cannot meet and must wait another year. July 7.

Hozuki Ichi (Ground Cherry Pod Fair), on the grounds of Asakusa's Sensoji Temple. Hundreds of street stalls sell Hozuki (Lantern Plants), colorful wind bells, and festival snacks. July 9 and 10.

O-Bon Festival, nationwide. This festival is held in memory of dead ancestors who, according to Buddhist belief, revisit the world during this period. O-Bon Odori folk dances are held in neighborhoods everywhere. Many Japanese return to their hometowns for the event, especially if a member of the family has died recently. As one Japanese, whose grandmother had died a few months earlier, told me, "I have to go back to my hometown -- it's my grandmother's first O-Bon." Mid-July or mid-August.

Antique Jamboree, Tokyo Big Sight, Odaiba. One of Japan's largest antique shows features 500 Japanese, European, and American dealers. Weekend in mid-July.

Maritime Day, a national holiday. The holiday commemorates the vital role of the sea in Japan's livelihood and honors those involved in the marine industry. Third Monday in July.

Hanabi Taikai (Fireworks Display). Tokyo's largest summer celebration features spectacular fireworks displays over the Sumida River in Asakusa. Get there early and spread a blanket on the bank of the river or in Sumida Koen Park (near Kototoibashi and Komagatabashi bridges). There are also fireworks displays over Tokyo Bay in August. Last Saturday of July.

August

Waraku Odori, in Nikko. This is one of the most popular events for folk dances, with thousands of people dancing to music. August 5 and 6.

September

Sumo Tournament, Kokugikan (sumo stadium), Tokyo (www.sumo.or.jp; take the JR or Oedo Line to Ryogoku Station). One of three Grand Tournaments held in Tokyo, held for 15 consecutive days in mid-September.

Respect-for-the-Aged Day, a national holiday. Third Monday in September.

Yabusame (Horseback Archery), Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine in Kamakura. The archery performances by riders on horseback recall the days of the samurai. September 16.

Autumnal Equinox Day, a national holiday. September 23.

October

Health Sports Day, a national holiday, established in commemoration of the Tokyo Olympic Games. Second Monday in October.

Oeshiki Festival, Ikegami-Honmonji Temple, Ikegami (Ikegami or Nishi-magome station; www.honmonji.jp/English.html). This is the largest of Tokyo's commemorative services held for Nichiren (1222-82), who founded the Buddhist Nichiren Sect and died at this temple. A nighttime procession features lanterns and huge paper decorations joined by the sound of flutes and drums. October 12 and 13.

Autumn Festival of Toshogu Shrine, Toshogu Shrine in Nikko. A parade of warriors in early-17th-century dress are accompanied by spear-carriers, gun-carriers, flag-bearers, Shinto priests, pages, court musicians, and dancers as they escort a sacred portable shrine. October 17.

November

Culture Day, a national holiday. November 3.

Daimyo Gyoretsu, Yumoto Onsen, in Hakone. On this day the old Tokaido Highway that used to link Kyoto and Tokyo comes alive again with a faithful reproduction of a feudal lord's procession in the old days, as he traveled between Edo (present-day Tokyo) and his domain accompanied by his retainers. November 3.

Shichi-go-san (Children's Shrine-Visiting Day), held throughout Japan. Shichi-go-san literally means "seven-five-three"; it refers to children of these ages who are dressed in their best kimono and taken to shrines by their elders to express thanks and to pray for their future. In Tokyo, the most popular sites are the Meiji, Yasukuni, Kanda Myojin, Asakusa, and Hie shrines. November 15.

Tori-no-Ichi (Rake Fair), Otori Shrine in Asakusa. This fair features stalls selling rakes lavishly decorated with paper and cloth, which are thought to bring good luck and fortune. The date, based on the lunar calendar, changes each year. Mid-November.

Labor Thanksgiving Day, a national holiday. November 23.

December

Gishi-sai, Sengakuji Station. This memorial service honors 47 masterless samurai (ronin), who avenged their master's death by killing his rival and parading his head; for their act, all were ordered to commit suicide. Forty-seven men dressed as the ronin travel to Sengakuji Temple (site of their master's burial) with the enemy's head to place on their master's grave. December 14.

Hagoita-Ichi (Battledore Fair), Sensoji Temple. Popular since Japan's feudal days, this fair features decorated paddles of all types and sizes, as well as shuttlecocks and kites. Most have designs of Kabuki actors -- images made by pasting together silk and brocade -- and make great souvenirs and gifts. December 17 to 19.

Emperor's Birthday, a national holiday. The birthday of Akihito, Japan's 125th emperor, became a national holiday in 1989. December 23.

New Year's Eve, celebrated nationwide. At midnight, many temples ring huge bells 108 times to signal the end of the old year and the beginning of the new (each peal represents a sin). Many families visit temples and shrines to pray for good luck and prosperity and to usher in the coming year. In Tokyo, Meiji Shrine is the place to be for this popular family celebration; many coffee shops and restaurants in nearby Harajuku stay open all night to serve the revelers. Other popular sites are Kanda Myojin Shrine, Sensoji Temple, and Sanno Hie Shrine.

Tips for Student Travelers

Students sometimes receive discounts at museums, though occasionally discounts are available only to students enrolled in Japanese schools. Furthermore, discounted prices are often not displayed in English. Your best bet is to bring along an International Student Identity Card (ISIC) with your university student ID and show them both at museum ticket windows. For information on the card and where and how to obtain one, check the website www.isic.org.

Getting There

Tokyo has two international airports. Narita International Airport (NRT; www.narita-airport.jp; tel. 0476/34-8000), located in Narita about 66km (41 miles) east of Tokyo, is by far the largest and serves the most flights. Closer at just 14km (8.6 miles) is Haneda Airport (HND; www.haneda-airport.jp/inter/en/; tel. 03/5757-8111), which operates as Tokyo’s domestic airport but also has an international terminal.

By Plane

Because the flight to Tokyo is such a long one (about 12 hr. from Los Angeles or London and 13 1/2 hr. from Chicago or New York), you may wish to splurge for a roomier seat and upgraded service, including special counters for check-in, private lounges at the airport, and better meals, though these come with a price. You should also consider a mileage program, because you'll earn lots of miles on this round-trip.

Japan's major carriers, flagship Japan Airlines and All Nippon Airways, offer more international flights to Tokyo than any other carriers. Other airlines flying between North America and Tokyo include American Airlines, Asiana Airlines, Continental Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Korean Air, Northwest Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways International, and United Airlines.

From the United Kingdom, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic Airways also offer daily nonstop service from London to Tokyo. Air New Zealand, Jetstar, and Qantas fly from Australia to Tokyo.

Narita International Airport — There are three terminals (1, 2 and, used mostly by regional low-cost airlines, 3), all with ATMs and counters for money exchange. Change enough money here to last several days—the exchange rate is about the same as in town and the process is speedy. Tourist Information Centers (TIC) located in the arrival lobbies of terminals 1 and 2 are open daily 8am to 8pm and offer free maps and pamphlets; staff here can make budget hotel reservations until 7:30pm. If you’ve purchased a Japan Rail Pass, you can turn in your voucher at the Japan Railways (JR) Travel Service Center, located in all terminals and open daily 6:30am to 9:45pm. Other facilities and services at terminals 1 and 2 include post offices, medical clinics, shower rooms, day rooms for napping, beauty salons, children’s playrooms, luggage storage and lockers, cellphone rentals, free Wi-Fi, and, in Terminal 2, a capsule hotel (useful if you have a very early flight). You can also have your suitcase delivered to your place of lodging no matter where you’re staying in Japan; it costs about ¥1,909 to ¥2,362 per bag in the Tokyo area depending on the weight and size.

A Tourist Information Center (TIC), managed by the Japan National Tourism Organization, is located in the arrival lobbies of both Terminal 1 (tel. 0476/30-3383) and Terminal 2 (tel. 0476/34-5877). The TIC offers free maps and pamphlets and can direct you to your hotel or inn. Both TICs are open daily 8am to 8pm; if you don't yet have a hotel room and want one at a modest price, you can make reservations here for free until 7:30pm.

Other facilities and services at both terminals include post offices, medical clinics, cellular phone rentals, luggage storage and lockers, shower rooms, day rooms for napping, children's playrooms, observation decks, and coin-operated computers with Internet connection (¥100 for 10 min.).

Getting into Town from Narita Airport

Everyone grumbles about Narita Airport because it's so far away from Tokyo. In fact, Narita is a different town altogether, with miles of paddies, bamboo groves, pine forests, and urban sprawl between it and Tokyo.

By Taxi -- Jumping into a taxi is the easiest way to get to Tokyo, but it’s also prohibitively expensive—and may not even be the quickest if you happen to hit rush-hour traffic. Taxis have both metered and—probably better—fixed-fare rates, but expect to spend around ¥19,000 to ¥25,000 for a 11/2- to 2-hour taxi ride to areas in central Tokyo. Note that highway toll charges and a surcharge applied from 10pm to 5am will cost extra.

By Airport Bus --  The most popular and stress-free way to get from Narita to Tokyo is via the Airport Limousine Bus (www.limousinebus.co.jp; tel. 03/3665-7220), which picks up passengers and their luggage from just outside the arrival lobbies of Terminals 1 and 2 and delivers them to downtown hotels. This is the best mode of transportation if you have heavy baggage or are staying at one of the 40 or so major hotels served by the bus. Buses depart for the various hotels generally once an hour, but note it can take almost 2 hours to reach a hotel in Shinjuku. Buses also travel to both Tokyo and Shinjuku stations, Haneda Airport, and the Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) in downtown Tokyo, with more frequent departures (up to four times an hour in peak times); all are served by public transportation. Even if your hotel is not served by limousine bus, you can still take it to the hotel or station nearest your destination. Check with the staff at the Airport Limousine Bus counter in the arrival lobbies to ask which bus stops nearest your hotel and its departure time. The fare to most destinations is ¥3,100. Children 6 to 12 are charged half-fare; those 5 and under ride free.

Cheaper buses, the Access Narita (www.accessnarita.jp) and the Tokyo Shuttle (www.keiseibus.co.jp/inbound/tokyoshuttle/en/), travel from all three terminals at Narita to Tokyo and Ginza for only ¥1,000 one-way (children pay half-fare). Travel time is 95 to 105 minutes, with departures up to three times an hour during peak times. You pay upon boarding with cash for Access Narita, while Tokyo Shuttle tickets are purchased at a Keisei Bus ticket counter.

By Train -- The quickest way to reach Tokyo is by train, with several options available. Trains depart directly from the airport’s two underground stations, Narita Airport Terminal 1 and Airport Terminal 2-3. The JR Narita Express (N’EX; www.jreast.co.jp; tel. 050/2016-1603) is the fastest way to reach Tokyo Station, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, or Ikebukuro, with departures approximately twice an hour. The 56-minute trip to Tokyo Station costs ¥3,020 one-way or ¥6,040 round-trip. At Tokyo Station, the train splits, with some cars going to Shibuya, Shinjuku, and, less frequently, Ikebukuro, and other cars going to Shinagawa (cost to these stations: ¥3,190, ¥6,380 round-trip). As this book was going to press, a special N’EX Tokyo Round Trip Ticket was being offered to foreign visitors for only ¥4,000. Sold only at Narita Airport, it even allows you to transfer to another JR train line to reach your Tokyo destination; check the website for more information. Otherwise, if you’ve validated your JR Rail Pass as mentioned above, you can ride the N’EX free.

Another train option, especially if your destination is Ueno, is the privately owned Keisei Skyliner (www.keisei.co.jp; tel. 0570-081-160), which departs directly from terminals 1 and 2 and travels to Ueno Station in Tokyo in as little as 41 minutes. Trains depart Narita approximately one to three times an hour from about 7:30am to 10:30pm. The fare between Narita Airport and Ueno Station is ¥2,470 one-way. Travelers on a budget can take one of Keisei’s slower limited express trains to Ueno Station, with fares starting at ¥1,030 for the 80-minute trip. If your destination is Asakusa, Nihombashi, Higashi-Ginza, Shimbashi, or Shinagawa, you can also travel on the Narita Sky Access Line or Keisei Main Line. For details, check the Keisei website or drop by the Keisei ticket counters in the arrival lobbies of terminals 1 and 2.

If the N'EX is sold out, take the slower JR Airport Liner rapid train, which will get you to Tokyo Station in 80 minutes and costs ¥1,280.

An alternative is the privately owned Keisei Skyliner train (tel. 03/3831-0131; www.keisei.co.jp), which departs directly from both Narita Airport Station (Terminal 1) and Airport Terminal 2 and travels to Ueno Station in Tokyo in about an hour, with a stop at Nippori Station on the way. You'll find Keisei Skyliner counters in the arrival lobbies of both terminals. Trains depart Narita approximately every 40 minutes between 7:52am and 10pm. The fare from Narita Airport to Ueno Station in Tokyo is ¥1,920 one-way. Travelers on a budget can take one of Keisei's slower limited express trains to Ueno Station; fares start at ¥1,000 for the 71-minute trip. Note: In late 2010, the faster New Skyliner will open for business, cutting the connection between the airport and Ueno station down to 40 minutes or less. At Keisei Ueno Station, where you'll find a Tokyo Tourist Information Center (daily 9:30am-6:30pm), you can take either the subway or the JR Yamanote Line to other parts of Tokyo. There are also plenty of taxis.

Saving on Airport Transportation -- If you plan to travel around Tokyo by public transportation (and who doesn’t?), you can save money by purchasing a combination Keisei Skyliner and Tokyo subway ticket, available only at Narita Airport. One-, 2-, and 3-day tickets offering unlimited subway rides are ¥2,800, ¥3,200, and ¥3,500, respectively, for a one-way Skyliner ticket and ¥4,700, ¥5,100, and ¥5,400 with a round-trip Skyliner ticket. Likewise, there are Airport Limousine & Subway Pass combination tickets that include a one-way or round-trip Airport Limousine Bus plus 24-, 48-, or 72-hour unlimited rides on all subways (it doesn’t have to be the same day of arrival), with a one-way bus and 24-hour combination ticket costing ¥3,400. This ticket, which I consider very good value, is available at Airport Limousine counters at the airport, TCAT, and Shinjuku Station West Exit in front of Keio Department Store. There are also combination tickets for visitors arriving at Haneda airport. Check websites for more information.

Getting from Haneda Airport to Central Tokyo

Haneda Airport has both domestic and international terminals (it’s officially named Tokyo International Airport, but everyone calls it Haneda). The international terminal has a Tokyo Tourist Information Center (on the second floor of the arrival lobby, open daily 24 hr.), currency exchange, free Wi-Fi, luggage storage and delivery, and cellphone rental. But the overriding benefit of Haneda is its central location compared to Narita. Taxi fares from Haneda are more reasonable than from Narita, but you can still expect to pay about ¥7,000 to reach downtown Tokyo.

Like Narita, Haneda Airport is served by the Airport Limousine Bus, with service to Shinjuku Station, Tokyo Station, the Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) in downtown Tokyo, and selected hotels in Ginza, Hibiya, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Shibuya, Roppongi, and Akasaka. Fares run ¥930 to ¥1,230 for most destinations.

Locals, however, are more likely to take the monorail from Haneda 16 minutes to Hamamatsucho Station (fare: ¥490), or the Keikyu Line 11 minutes to Shinagawa (fare: ¥410). Both Hamamatsucho and Shinagawa connect to the very useful Yamanote Line, which travels to major stations like Tokyo and Shinjuku.

By Train

If you're arriving from elsewhere in Japan, you'll most likely arrive via Shinkansen bullet train at Tokyo, Ueno, or Shinagawa station. All are well served by trains (including the useful JR Yamanote Line), subways, and taxis.

By Boat

There are no international ferry services to Tokyo, but domestic long-distance ferries arrive at Ariake Ferry Terminal, located on an artificial island adjacent to Odaiba in Tokyo Bay; the nearest station is Kokusai-Tenjijo-Seimon. Cruise lines usually dock at Harumi Terminal.

Visitor Information

The Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) publishes a wealth of free, colorful brochures and maps covering Tokyo and other cities. These include a tourist map of Tokyo, brochures of popular destinations near Tokyo, and "The Tourist's Language Handbook," a phrase booklet to help foreign visitors communicate with the Japanese.

Japan Online: You can reach JNTO via the Internet at www.jnto.go.jp (and at www.japantravelinfo.com for North American travelers; at www.seejapan.co.uk for British travelers; and at www.jnto.org.au for Australian travelers), where you can read up on what's new, view maps, get the latest weather report, find links to online hotel reservation companies and tour companies, and browse through information ranging from hints on budget travel to regional events. JNTO also showcases local tourism attractions, Japanese cuisine, and other topics on YouTube at www.youtube.com/VisitJapan.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government maintains a website, at www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp, as does the Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau, at www.tcvb.or.jp. A different perspective is provided by bloggers living in Tokyo at http://tokyo.metblogs.com.

The JNTO Overseas: If you'd like information on Japan before leaving home, contact one of the following JNTO offices.

In the United States: 11 West 42nd Street, 19th Floor, New York, NY 10036 (tel. 212/715-1205; visitjapan@jntonyc.org); and Little Tokyo Plaza, 340 E. Second St., Ste. 302, Los Angeles, CA 90012 (tel. 213/623-1952; info@jnto-lax.org).

In Canada: 481 University Ave., Ste. 306, Toronto, ON M5G 2E9, Canada (tel. 416/366-7140; info@jntoyyz.com).

In the United Kingdom: Fifth Floor, 12 Nicholas Lane, London EC4N 7BN, England (tel. 020/7398-5678; info@jnto.co.uk).

In Australia: Level 7, 36-38 Clarence St., Sydney NSW 2000, Australia (no phone service; travelinfo@jnto.org.au).

In Tokyo: JNTO maintains three tourist offices, known as Tourist Information Centers (TICs), in Tokyo and in its airport to handle inquiries from foreigners and the general public about Tokyo and the rest of Japan and to provide free maps and sightseeing materials. You can even make reservations here for inexpensive accommodations throughout Japan at no extra charge.

If you arrive by plane at Narita International Airport, you'll find TICs in the arrivals lobbies of Terminal 1 (tel. 0476/30-3383) and Terminal 2 (tel. 0476/34-5877), both open daily from 8am to 8pm. Otherwise, the main TIC is in the heart of Tokyo at 2-10-1 Yurakucho (tel. 03/3201-3331; station: Yurakucho), within walking distance of the Ginza. It's located on the 10th floor of a rather obscure office building next to Yurakucho Station called the Kotsu Kaikan Building (look for the building's circular top). Assuming you're able to find them, the TIC staff is courteous and efficient; I cannot recommend them highly enough. In addition to city maps (such as the "Tourist Map of Tokyo") and sightseeing materials, the office has more information on the rest of Japan than any other tourist office, including pamphlets and brochures on major cities and attractions such as Nikko and Kamakura. Hours are daily 9am to 5pm.

There's also the new TIC TOKYO, facing the Nihombashi exit of Tokyo Station, at 1-8-1 Marunouchi (tel. 03/5220-7055; www.tictokyo.jp). Open daily 10am to 7pm, it dispenses information on traveling throughout Japan, and books accommodations, tours, and even air tickets.

Another great source of information is the Tokyo Tourist Information Center, operated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government and located on the first floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (TMG) Building no. 1, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku (tel. 03/5321-3077; www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp; station: Tochomae or Shinjuku). You'll probably want to come here anyway for the great views from TMG's free observation floor. The center dispenses pamphlets, its own city map (which is a great complement to the one issued by JNTO), and handy one-page detailed maps of various city districts, from Ueno to Roppongi. It's open daily 9:30am to 6:30pm. Other city-run information counters are located at Keisei Ueno Station (tel. 03/3836-3471), open daily 9:30am to 6:30pm, and at Haneda Airport (tel. 03/5757-9345), open daily 9am to 10pm.

Tourist Publications: Be sure to pick up Event Calendar at the TIC, a monthly leaflet listing festivals, antiques and crafts fairs, and other events throughout the metropolitan area. Of the many free giveaways available at the TICs, restaurants, bars, bookstores, hotels, and other establishments visitors and expats are likely to frequent, the best is the weekly Metropolis (http://metropolis.co.jp), with features on Tokyo, club listings, and restaurant and movie reviews. Look also for the free Japanzine (www.seekjapan.jp/japanzine) and att.Japan (www.att-japan.net). Weekly entertainment sections on theater, films, and special events are published in the English-language newspapers, appearing on Friday in the Japan Times and on Thursday in the Daily Yomiuri.

When to Go

Although Tokyo's busiest foreign-tourist season is summer, the city lends itself to visiting year-round. In fact, when the rest of Japan is besieged with vacationing Japanese during Golden Week (Apr 29-May 5) and summer vacation (mid-July through Aug), Tokyo can be blissfully empty, as Tokyoites pour out of the city to the countryside. Keep in mind, however, that in mid-February, hotel rooms may be in short supply as high-school students from around the nation converge on Tokyo to compete in entrance exams for the city's prestigious universities. In addition, popular tourist destinations outside Tokyo, such as Nikko, Kamakura, and Hakone, will be jam-packed on major holidays. And from December 31 through the first 2 to 4 days of January, it seems as though the entire nation shuts down, including most restaurants and museums.

Climate

The Japanese are very proud of the fact that Japan has four distinct seasons; they place much more emphasis on the seasons than people do in the West. Kimono, dishes and bowls used for kaiseki (elaborate feasts utilizing seasonal food), and Noh plays all change with the seasons, and most festivals are tied to seasonal rites. Even Tokyoites note the seasons: Almost as though on cue, businesspeople will change virtually overnight from their winter to summer business attire. And when the cherry blossoms burst forth, it seems like the entire metropolis comes out to greet them.

Summer, which begins in June, is heralded by the rainy season, which lasts from about mid-June to mid-July in Tokyo. July, on the average, has 10 to 12 rainy days, but even though it doesn't rain every day, umbrellas are imperative. When the rain stops, it gets unbearably hot and humid through August -- you might want to head for Hakone for a bit of fresh air. Otherwise, you'll be most comfortable in light cottons, and you'd be wise to pack sunscreen and a hat (Japanese women are also fond of sun parasols), but be sure to pack a lightweight jacket for unexpected cool evenings and overly air-conditioned rooms. The period from the end of August through September is typhoon season, though most storms stay out at sea and vent their fury on land as thunderstorms.

Autumn, which lasts September through November, is one of the best times to visit Tokyo. The days are pleasant and slightly cool, the skies are a brilliant blue, and the maple trees turn scarlet. Bring a warm jacket.

Winter lasts from about December to March in Tokyo, with days that are generally clear and cold with extremely low humidity. Tokyo doesn't get much snow, but it can, so be prepared. I remember one winter when snow fell in a slushy mush through March and into the cherry-blossom season. In any case, the temperature is usually above freezing.

Spring is ushered in by a magnificent fanfare of plum and cherry blossoms in March and April, an exquisite time of year when all of Japan is set ablaze in whites and pinks. The blossoms last only a few days, symbolizing to the Japanese the fragile nature of beauty and of life itself. Tokyo may still have cool, rainy weather until May, so be sure to bring a light raincoat or jacket.

Holidays

National holidays are January 1 (New Year's Day), second Monday in January (Coming-of-Age Day), February 11 (National Foundation Day), March 20 (Vernal Equinox Day), April 29 (Showa Day, after the late Emperor Showa), May 3 (Constitution Memorial Day), May 4 (Greenery Day), May 5 (Children's Day), third Monday in July (Maritime Day), third Monday in September (Respect-for-the-Aged Day), September 23 (Autumn Equinox Day), second Monday in October (Health Sports Day), November 3 (Culture Day), November 23 (Labor Thanksgiving Day), and December 23 (Emperor's Birthday).

When a national holiday falls on a Sunday, the next day, Monday, becomes a holiday. The most important holidays for the Japanese are New Year's, Golden Week (Apr 29-May 5), and the O-Bon Festival (about a week in mid-Aug). Avoid traveling on these dates at all costs, since long-distance trains and most accommodations are booked solid (and are often more expensive). The weekends before and after these holidays are also likely to be very crowded. Luckily, Tokyo is an exception -- since the major exodus is back to hometowns or the countryside, holidays such as Golden Week can be almost blissful in the metropolis. Another busy travel time is during summer-school holidays, around July 19 through August, when the Japanese take vacations en masse.

Although government offices and many businesses are closed on public holidays, restaurants and most stores remain open. The exception is during the New Year's celebration, the end of December through January 3 or 4, when almost all restaurants, public and private offices, and stores close up shop; during that time, you'll have to dine in hotels.

All museums close for New Year's for 1 to 4 days, but most major museums remain open for the other holidays. If a public holiday falls on a Monday (when most museums are closed), many museums will remain open but will close instead the following day, on Tuesday. Note that privately owned museums, however, such as art museums or special-interest museums, generally close on public holidays. To avoid disappointment, be sure to phone ahead if you plan to visit a museum on or the day following a holiday.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

While there are many gay and lesbian establishments in Tokyo (concentrated mostly in Shinjuku's Ni-chome district), the gay community in Japan is not a vocal one, and in any case, information in English is hard to come by. A useful website for gay club listings is www.utopia-asia.com/tokyobars.htm. Otherwise, the best bet for getting up to speed on the current Tokyo gay and lesbian scene is to head to Ni-chome and stop by one of the establishments.

Tips for Senior Travelers

A few museums in Tokyo offer free admission to seniors over 65 or 70 (be sure to have your passport handy), including the Tokyo National Museum; others in Tokyo and elsewhere may offer discounts. However, discounts may not be posted, so be sure to ask. In addition, visitors to Japan should be aware that there are many stairs to navigate in metropolitan areas, particularly in subway and train stations and on pedestrian overpasses. Remember that it is very hot and humid in summer.

Escorted & Package Tours

Language Classes & Cultural Experiences

You won't become fluent in Japanese in a week or two, but for longer stays there are language schools throughout Tokyo that cater to both the beginner and the intermediate. Check the classified sections of city magazines such as Metropolis for lists of language schools.

Two Hong Kong import luxury hotels offer a variety of cultural classes for its guests -- all at a price, of course. The Peninsula Tokyo offers a flower-arranging class and a sushi-making class, among others, while the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, offers private lessons in the tea ceremony, ikebana flower arranging, and calligraphy lasting from 60 to 90 minutes.

Several hotels have tea ceremony rooms and demonstrations open to the public, including the New Otani, Okura, and Imperial.

For extra pampering, many upper-range hotels also offer spas, but for the traditional Japanese spa experience, you'll want to visit a hot-spring bath. Tokyo has two hot-spring baths, the Ooedo-Onsen Monogatari and Spa LaQua, but for a real hot-spring experience, consider a trip to Hakone or Izu.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motor coach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

That said, lots of tour companies offer group trips that include a stop in Tokyo, including General Tours (tel. 800/221-2216; www.generaltours.com), which offers tours to major tourist destinations in Japan. JTB USA (tel. 800/235-3523; www.jtbusa.com) offers tours that may highlight anything from Japanese cuisine to art. Esprit Travel & Tours (tel. 800/377-7481; www.esprittravel.com) specializes in small-group walking, hiking, and cultural tours that cover such interests as textile arts, Japanese gardens, and the old Tokaido Road. If you want someone else to take care of logistics but don't like group tours, Artisans of Leisure (tel. 800/214-8144; www.artisansofleisure.com) provides luxury tours with private guides that are tailored to your interests. For more information on escorted tours departing from North America, go to www.japantravelinfo.com; for tours departing from England, go to www.seejapan.co.uk.

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

It's safe to drink tap water and eat to your heart's content everywhere in Japan (pregnant women, however, are advised to avoid eating raw fish and to avoid taking hot baths). Although Japan had nine cases of mad cow disease after its first confirmed case in 2001, all slaughtered cows must now be checked for the disease before the meat is authorized for consumption. To prevent the spread of avian and H1N1 flu, all incoming passengers are monitored upon arrival at Narita Airport for fever; those with a higher than normal temperature may be quarantined. To be on the safe side, therefore, you may opt for an influenza vaccine before departing from home.

Otherwise, you don't need any inoculations to enter Japan. Prescriptions can be filled at Japanese pharmacies only if they're issued by a Japanese doctor. To avoid hassle, bring more prescription medications than you think you'll need, clearly labeled in their original containers, and be sure to pack them in your carry-on luggage. But to be safe, bring copies of your prescriptions with you, including generic names of medicines in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Over-the-counter items are easy to obtain, though name brands are likely to be different from those back home, some ingredients allowed elsewhere may be forbidden in Japan, and prices are likely to be higher.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Tokyo has some Western-trained physicians and many more who speak some English. If you get sick, you may want to contact the concierge at your hotel -- some upper-range hotels have in-house doctors or clinics. Otherwise, your embassy in Tokyo can provide a list of area doctors who speak English, as can the local tourist office. You can also contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org), an organization that lists many local English-speaking doctors and also posts the latest developments in global outbreaks. Otherwise, if you can't find a doctor who can help you right away, try the local hospital. Many have walk-in clinics for cases that are not life-threatening. Doctors and hospitals generally do not accept credit cards and require immediate cash payment for health services.

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au/tips/travelwell.html

Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index-eng.php

U.K.: www.nhs.uk/Healthcareabroad/Pages/Healthcareabroad.aspx

U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Safety

Tokyo is one of the safest cities in the world. In all the years I've lived and worked in Tokyo, I've never had even one fearful encounter, and I never hesitate to walk anywhere any time of the night or day. If you lose something, say on a subway or in a park, chances are good that you'll get it back.

That being said, however, crime -- especially pickpocketing -- is on the increase, and there are precautions you should always take when traveling: Stay alert and be aware of your immediate surroundings. Be especially careful with cameras, purses, and wallets, particularly in crowded subways, department stores, or tourist attractions (such as the retail district around Tsukiji Market). Some Japanese caution women against walking through parks alone at night.