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This hole-in-the-wall underneath the Yamanote train tracks looks like it's been here since the rubble of post World War II—because it has. Founded in 1945 when there were cubbyholes like this popping up under raised train tracks throughout a bombed-out Tokyo, it is now owned by the founder's son-in-law, a Brit named Andy. As tiny as it is, it has an upstairs with an arched ceiling that is only marginally better than the downstairs with the charm of a fall-out shelter. Yet this place is packed elbow to elbow every night with office workers, and the only way you might get your foot in the door without a reservation is by coming right when it opens. The food, made with seafood and vegetables bought fresh daily at Tsukiji Market, includes tempura, a fish of the day, deep-fried chicken, chili prawns, salads (usually sold out by 8pm), and the signature stuffed gyoza chicken wings. Even with its fluorescent lighting, soot-blackened walls, and no-credit-card policy, this throwback is, in the words of Andy, always "insanely busy," and all from word of mouth.