Reservations are a must at this tiny, smoke-free hideaway off Aoyama Dori, where seating is confined to only a few wooden tables and a long counter stretching along the open kitchen. The English-language menu, which changes often to reflect what's in season, offers a tempting roster of choices ranging from classic Kyoto-style kaiseki to creative dishes with a contemporary twist. The friendly and hip staff is happy to help narrow down selections based on individual preferences, but one dish you shouldn't pass up is the restaurant's signature donabe, rice simmered in a clay pot and served with a choice of toppings. Other main dishes may include free-range chicken with salt and yuzu pepper, beef preserved in Kyoto miso, or a seasonal vegetable tempura. But for those who still can't make up their mind, there's also a monthly set meal that always includes donabe. Drinks range from wine to sake and shochu, including awamori, an Okinawan shochu made from Thai rice. There's a branch in Ginza, open also for lunch and serving only set meals for dinner; check the website for its location.