This is one of my favorite department stores in Tokyo; if I were buying a wedding gift, Matsuya, in business 145 years, is one of the first places I’d look. It has a good selection of Japanese folk crafts, kitchenware, and kimono, and beautifully designed contemporary housewares, in addition to the usual designer apparel (“queen” sizes are on the sixth floor). I always make a point of stopping by the seventh floor’s Design Collection, which displays examples of fine design from around the world selected by the Japan Design Committee, from the Alessi teapot to Braun razors. Two basement floors are devoted to food. Also in the basement is the tax-free counter (Isetan refunds the entire 8% and does not charge a service fee), where there’s also free Wi-Fi and currency-exchange machines.