Hotels by Neighborhood

Conrad Tokyo ★★★ — Many attributes of this fine, contemporary hotel win me over, starting with the large sumi-e (Japanese brush painting) in the lobby by one of my favorite Japanese artists, Toko Shinoda, just one of 23 leading Japanese craftsmen with artwork gracing the hotel. It also has one of the city's largest spa and fitness centers, occupying the entire 29th floor with 10 treatment rooms, a 25m pool (with a sumi-e design on the bottom, naturally), and a gym offering aerobics, yoga, and other classes. But it's what's outside the hotel that makes this property special: fantastic views of Tokyo Bay and Odaiba over Hama Riku Garden. Because the cheapest rooms (sized at a very respectable 48 sq. m [516 sq. ft.]) face the city, I think it's worth splurging for bayside rooms, which take full advantage of those panoramic views with couches that extend the entire length of the wall-to-wall window and are great places to relax with the morning newspaper or evening drink. Located a short walk from Ginza and Shiodome, the hotel is surrounded by office buildings housing mostly TV and advertising conglomerates, which perhaps explains why half of Conrad's guests are international travelers, most of them American.

1–9–1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku. www.conradhotels.com. tel. 03/6388-8000. 290 units. ¥45,000–¥89,000 single or double; ¥57,000–¥118,500 executive room; from ¥119,000 suite. Rates exclude tax and service charge. Station: Shiodome (1 min.) or Shimbashi (7 min.). Amenities: 4 restaurants, lounge/bar; concierge; executive-level rooms; free entrance to health club and 25m indoor pool (classes cost ¥3,150); room service; spa; Wi-Fi.

Imperial Hotel ★★★ — This is one of Tokyo's oldest and most respected hotels, with a prime location near subway stations, Ginza, Hibiya Park, and Imperial Palace. First opened in 1890 at the request of the imperial family to house foreign visitors, it was rebuilt in 1922 by Frank Lloyd Wright and survived the horrific 1923 earthquake, only to succumb in 1970 to developers in a complete makeover. Wright’s legacy lives on in the hotel’s Art Deco Old Imperial Bar and Wright-inspired designs and furniture in public spaces. Rooms are spread throughout the main building, popular with Japanese because its showers are located outside of tubs (which allows them to bathe in traditional fashion), and in a 31-story tower added in 1983. Although access to the tower, via a second-floor passageway, is a bit cumbersome, and tower rooms are smaller, foreign guests tend to like rooms here because views are better (with a choice of either the Ginza with its sparkling neon or Hibiya Park and Imperial Palace) and it’s near the pool and gym. Tip: Join Imperial Club International—membership is free—and you can use the pool and gym for free and get other hotel discounts.

1–1–1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku. www.imperialhotel.co.jp/e/tokyo. tel. 03/3504-1111. 1,019 units. ¥33,750–¥91,800 single or double; from ¥100,000 suite. Rates exclude service charge. Station: Hibiya (1 min.). Amenities: 13 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; babysitting; children’s day-care center for ages 2 weeks to 6 years (fee: ¥5,400 for 2 hr.); concierge; executive-level rooms; exercise room (fee: ¥1,080; free for Imperial Club International members); 20th-floor indoor pool and sauna (fee: ¥1,080; free for Imperial Club International members); room service; tea-ceremony room; post office; Wi-Fi.

Hotel Gracery ★★ — Rooms here may be tiny, but high-powered Ginza is literally just outside the door. Targeting business travelers by offering convenient locations in city centers across the country, this business chain stays ahead of the pack with accommodations that are updated and minimally chic, with duvet-covered beds and colorful bed runners and pillows. There are rooms geared just toward women, some with wood floors (thought to foster a feeling of well-being when trod upon barefoot), and offering female toiletries and the Takarazuka Sky Stage cable channel (where programs center on this all-female troupe), as well as doubles and executive-level rooms with massage chairs.

7–10–1 Ginza, Chuo-ku. www.ginza.gracery.com. tel. 03/6686-1000. 270 units. ¥11,800–¥24,200 single; ¥13,000–¥28,000 double. Station: Ginza (3 min.) or Shimbashi (7 min.). 1 block east of Chuo Dori, behind Ginza Sapporo Lion. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi.

Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza Premier ★★★ — Mitsui Garden is a chain of business hotels that generally rises above the others in terms of decor and facilities, but this one ranks as one of Mitsui Garden's top properties. Its location is superb for business and leisure travelers alike, on the southern edge of Ginza near Shimbashi. Occupying the upper floors of an office building, it has a 16th-floor lobby that welcomes guests with lots of sofas, a comfy computer corner for travelers without laptops, and floor-to-ceiling windows revealing great views of Tokyo Bay, Hama Rikyu Garden, and Tokyo Tower. Rooms are compact though thoughtfully designed, but their best feature is the panoramic views of Tokyo Tower (the most requested), the Ginza (most beautiful at night), or the bay (note that a new building now obstructs bay views from some rooms, so be sure to request an unobstructed view). Views are even afforded from bathrooms, either through windows that look out past the bedroom toward the city (in the cheaper rooms) or, in View Bath and Premier rooms, from windows right beside the tub that let you take in the vistas as you soak. Although this hotel has lots going for it, the views in this price range really set it apart.

8–13–1 Ginza, Chuo-ku. www.gardenhotels.co.jp/eng. tel. 03/3543-1131. 361 units. ¥17,900–¥29,700 single; ¥19,800–¥48,300 double. Station: Shimbasi (5 min.) or Ginza (7 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi.

Park Hotel Tokyo ★★★ — Occupying the top 10 floors of a triangular-shaped building it shares with international media organizations (like Kyodo News), this hotel is well located within walking distance of the Ginza and Hama Rikyu Garden. Its lobby, on the 25th floor and decorated with large trees and dark woods in a theme of “nature and health,” is bathed in the natural sunlight afforded by a 10-story atrium topped with an opaque ceiling, making the ART Lounge a great place for breakfast. The front desk is one of the most dramatic I’ve seen, backed by nothing but great views of Tokyo Tower and the city. Rooms, simply decorated with original art, also provide views, the best of which can be found on the 30th floor and above facing Hama Rikyu Garden and Tokyo Bay. One of the things I like most about this hotel is its dedication to art, with changing exhibits on lobby walls, and 31 rooms on the 31st floor painted by Japanese artists—like the Bamboo Room with wall murals of greenery or the brightly colored Geisha Goldfish—complete with an art concierge to explain the concept and artist behind each room.

Shiodome Media Tower, 1–7–1 Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-ku. www.parkhoteltokyo.com. tel. 03/6252-1111. 269 units. ¥17,400–¥25,000 single; ¥20,135–¥40,000 double. Rates exclude service charge. Station: Shiodome (1 min.) or Shimbashi (8 min.). Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; lounge; concierge; personal-size gym (free, on a reservation basis); room service; spa; Wi-Fi.

remm Hibiya ★ — This low-key business hotel slips under the radar of most passersby, despite its prime location across from the Imperial Hotel and just steps away from the Ginza. Its second-floor reception shares space with a branch of Muji Café & Meal, known for its inexpensive salads and healthy dishes and open from 7am for breakfast. Rooms are tiny, but all have the surprising addition of massage chairs, and some single and double rooms facing west even have views of Hibiya Park or palace grounds between buildings; note that single/double rooms, with showers instead of tubs, are actually the same room and are cramped for two people. Glass walls separating bathrooms from living space give the illusion of space (thank goodness there’s a blind you can pull down). Although a business hotel, this place also caters to women with a devoted Ladies Floor and the Takarazuka Sky Stage cable channel free of charge, but the extremely popular Takarazuka Kagekidan theater just across the street, with its all-female cast performing musical revues, is what draws its devoted (and overwhelmingly women) fans. There are branches in Akihabara and Roppongi.

1–2–1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku. www.hankyu-hotel.com/hotel/remm/hibiya. tel. 03/3507-0606. 225 units. ¥8,800–¥18,500 single; ¥12,600–¥36,000 double. Station: Hibiya (2 min.) or Yurakucho (5 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Hoshinoya Tokyo ★★★ — Traditional Japanese inns have gone the way of the geisha in Tokyo, and so it was with some fanfare that this ryokan opened its discreet doors in 2016. Hidden among Otemachi’s high-rises, it’s an oasis of Japanese refinement, apparent the moment you are greeted upon entering by a traditionally clad hostess, who will place your shoes in one of the decorative bamboo boxes that line the corridor like works of art. In fact, you won’t wear shoes or slippers at all during your stay (except for your own bathroom slippers), because tatami runs throughout the inn, inviting you to relax and feel at home. Rooms are decorated in a graceful minimalist style, resplendent with natural materials like wood, bamboo, slate-colored papered walls, and shoji covering floor-to-ceiling windows. In keeping with the personalized service that’s the trademark of a great ryokan, each of the inn’s 14 floors has its own Ochanoma Lounge, where guests are invited to relax and enjoy tea, sake, and snacks. But the crowning glory is the top-floor hot-spring bath, a rarity in Tokyo, with water drawn from 1,500m (4,921 ft) from below ground and an open roof, letting you gaze up at passing clouds or maybe even falling snow. It’s hard to believe you’re in Tokyo.

1–9–2 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku. https://hoshinoya.com/tokyo/en. tel. 03/6214-5151. ¥52,736–¥68,646 single; ¥75,200–¥105,500 double. Rates include breakfast. Station: Otemachi (2 min.) or Tokyo (10 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; spa; hot-spring bath; Wi-Fi.

Tokyo Station Hotel ★★ — Tokyo Station was built in 1914 in the tradition of Europe's great train stations; the Tokyo Station Hotel opened a year later. Although the station itself has grown crazily over the years, the historic section containing the hotel, which faces Marunouchi with a handsome brick facade, retains its century-old glory. And luckily, the hotel has its own dedicated entrance (as well as direct access to subway and train stations, handy in inclement weather), so it’s away from the chaos that reigns in the station and has little foot traffic. As Japan Railway’s flagship hotel, it retains many of its original features, including a high-ceilinged lobby lounge, which once served as the first-class waiting lounge, and the original 330-m.-long (1,082-ft.) corridor leading to rooms. Even Hisashi Sugimoto, at the hotel since 1958, is back at the historic Bar Oak concocting his signature cocktails. Six different styles of rooms, all with high-vaulted ceilings and expansive windows, are available, from Classic Queens, which are fairly standard and also dark, since they face another building, to Dome Side Rooms, which face a concourse with the spectacularly restored reliefs from the train station's Cupola domed ceiling. With both fine and casual dining and old-world ambience, not to mention easy access to one of the busiest train stations in the world, this is a unique property in Tokyo. Train buffs won't want to stay anywhere else.

Tokyo Station, 1–9–1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku. www.thetokyostationhotel.jp. tel. 03/5220-1111. 150 units. ¥33,000–¥46,800 single; ¥38,400–¥61,8000 double. 10% discount for holders of Japan Rail Pass on specific rooms. Station: Tokyo (1 min.). Amenities: 7 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; concierge; small gym (fee: ¥1,000); room service; spa; Wi-Fi.

Super Hotel Lohas Tokyo-eki Yaesu Chuo-guchi (スーパーホテルＬｏｈａｓ東京駅八重洲中央口) ★ — It’s a mouthful, but what its name really means is that it’s super cheap (by central Tokyo standards) and has a super location only a block east of Tokyo Station. Part of a growing hotel chain that edges competitors out with low prices, it offers small rooms with all the basics, plus pull-down window shades for total darkness, wall-mounted TVs (there’s nowhere else to really put them), and humidifier/air purifiers. There’s also a ladies’ floor that offers the additions of face steamers, makeup mirrors and other amenities in rooms done up in feminine colors. However, with the rest of Tokyo within such easy reach, I’m betting you won’t want to spend much quality time in your room, though you might want to take a dip in the large public baths, which feature playful—if slightly weird—seasonal additions, such as lemons added to the water.

2–2–7 Yaesu, Chuo-ku. www.superhoteljapan.com/en/s-hotels/yaesu. tel. 03/3241-9000. 325 units. ¥11,500–¥15,000 single; ¥14,000–¥22,500 double. Station: Tokyo (Yaesu Central exit, 3 min.) or Kyobashi (4 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi.

Ryokan Kamogawa ★★ — Established in 1948 by the present owner’s parents and located just off Nakamise Dori, this inn is small and personable, with a coffee shop and a Japanese-style bath you can lock and use privately (reserve in advance). Its tatami rooms, with shoji screens and other traditional touches, sleep up to five persons, making them a good choice for families. Note that only one room (the size of four-and-a-half tatami mats; a single tatami measures 1m[ts]1.8m) is available at the cheapest rates below, so you’re more likely to pay ¥19,800 for a standard room whether you’re one or two people. In any case, the small inn is often fully booked, especially in April, October, December, and February, so if you hope to stay here then, book far ahead. Note, too, that the front door is locked at 11:30pm; if you wish to stay out later, be sure to ask for the back-door key. Dinners, served in the coffee shop, start at ¥2,400 but must be ordered in advance.

1–30–10 Asakusa, Taito-ku. www.f-kamogawa.jp. tel. 03/3843-2681. 10 units. ¥8,100–¥20,300 single; ¥12,000–¥28,000 double; ¥26,700–¥38,400 triple. Station: Asakusa (3 min.). Amenities: Coffee shop; Wi-Fi.

Sadachiyo Sukeroku-no-yado ★★★ — This 70-year-old ryokan is a rarity in Tokyo and a great find in Asakusa's traditional neighborhood. It has lots of Edo-era touches, from the rickshaw outside the front door to stone and paper lanterns, bamboo screens, and antiques that fill public places. Even the staff wears traditional clothing, and the lounge is typically Japanese with floor seating. Rooms are all tatami and have woodblock prints, shoji screens, and other traditional features, with some large enough for a family of six. The cypress-and-granite public baths are a perk, and to really feel like you're living in old Edo (present-day Tokyo), sign up for the Japanese dinner, featuring dishes typical of the times and beginning at ¥5,500 for a 10-dish meal (make dinner reservations when you book your room). The ryokan has a 2am curfew.

2–20–1 Asakusa, Taito-ku. www.sadachiyo.co.jp. tel. 03/3842-6431. 20 units. ¥14,100–¥15,100 single; ¥19,600–¥28,800 double. Station: Tawaramachi (8 min.), Asakusa (15 min.), or Tsukuba Express Asakusa (3 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Book and Bed Tokyo ★★ — A library room that doubles as a hostel? It’s a bit gimmicky, and yet it works, mainly because it’s well-done and the coffin-size sleeping cubbyholes are tucked away among a wall of bookshelves, making guests feel more insulated from their neighbors than the usual capsule hotel. But this is still a hostel, after all, with shared toilets and showers, and only a curtain separates you from the communal living space in the center of the room, where sofas invite guests to read some of the library’s 1,500 books, including those in English and guidebooks on Japan. There are three types of sleeping spaces available: 10 “compact” units filled with a single bed, 30 slightly larger standard units with a semi-double-size bed, and six double units with king-size beds, all with reading lamps and electric outlets. At one end of the room is a counter offering breakfast and alcoholic drinks, making sleep a challenge, perhaps, for those who like to turn in early or get up late. Note that payment can be made only with a credit card or the Suica or PASMO transportation card (no cash). Sensoji Temple is just a few minutes’ walk away. Other Book and Bed hostels are in Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, and Kyoto.

2–16–9 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku. https://bookandbedtokyo.com/en/asakusa/index.html. tel. 03/6231-6893. 46 units. ¥4,200–¥6,300 single; ¥7,200–¥10,200 double. Station: Asakusa (exit 2, 3 min.). Amenities: Bar; Wi-Fi.

Hotel Coco Grand ★★★ — This hotel is located in the shitamachi (old downtown) area of Ueno where commoners once lived, but guests won't sacrifice style or comfort to stay here. Across the street from the south end of Shinobazu Pond and an easy walk from Ueno Park and Ueno's Keisei Station with direct service from Narita Airport, it has an upbeat, boutiquelike atmosphere, with a welcoming gas fireplace in the lobby; a cake shop that draws in Japanese women; public baths; and small but chic rooms, many with views of the pond and decorated in splashes of bright colors. Rooms are mostly small singles, but even the cheapest are snazzy and perfectly fine. There are also doubles and twins, including two Park View Doubles with views of the pond and Zen Twins, which impart an air of traditional Japan with their raised beds on tatami and shoji-like window coverings. The best room in the house is the Villa Suite Twin, which feels like an exotic getaway with its private outdoor terrace outfitted with Jacuzzi, sofa, and TV, plus a steam room and bathroom tub big enough for two. The website is only in Japanese, but it does have photos of rooms. There’s a public bath and a sauna.

2–12–14 Ueno, Taito-ku. www.cocogrand.co.jp/uenoshinobazu. tel. 03/5812-1155. 58 units. ¥9,800–¥16,800 single; ¥16,800–¥36,300 double. Rates include breakfast. Station: Ueno (4 min.). Amenities: Cake shop; public baths; Wi-Fi.

Annex Katsutaro ★★ — Old-fashioned Yanaka neighborhood, home to many temples and the Yanaka Ginza shopping street, is part of what makes a stay here special. It's also within a 20-minute walk from Ueno Park with its many museums, and the Keisei Skyliner from Narita Airport stops at nearby Nippori Station. Though the inn itself is a three-story concrete building, it manages to convey a sense of place with its spotless Japanese-style tatami rooms and a complimentary map that introduces the area and how to navigate it. It's the sister inn of nearby Katsutaro Ryokan, which is older and slightly cheaper but isn't nearly as nice.

3–8–4 Yanaka, Taito-ku. www.katsutaro.com. tel. 03/3828-2500. 17 units. ¥6,750–¥8,100 single; ¥12,420–¥16,200 double. Station: Sendagi (2 min.) or Nippori (7 min.). Amenities: Rental bikes (¥300/day); Wi-Fi.

Ryokan Sawanoya ★★★ — I stayed here on one of my earliest trips to Japan; I'm happy to report that it has only gotten better over the years and remains one of my favorites. A family-run affair since 1949, the smoke-free inn is now in the capable hands of the original proprietress' grandson, though the elder Sawa-san still pours his heart and soul into the business and even wrote a book about the history of Sawanoya and his experiences as an innkeeper. Located about a 15-minute walk from Ueno Park and 5 minutes from Nezu Shrine, it's nestled in a residential area known for its shitamachi (old downtown) atmosphere and traditional architecture. Upon arrival, guests are given a short tour of the establishment, which includes two baths with views of a garden (which can be locked for privacy) and a nice laundry room with free detergent, before being led to their tatami room on the second or third floor (there's no elevator). Guests also receive a hand-drawn map outlining restaurants and other nearby facilities. The large lobby offers free coffee and tea and a huge selection of brochures from throughout Japan. A traditional Japanese lion dance is staged free of charge several times a month, and the inn is LGBT friendly. In short, Sawanoya has a long history of making travelers feel welcome in Tokyo and thus comes highly recommended.

2–3–11 Yanaka, Taito-ku. www.sawanoya.com. tel. 03/3822-2251. 12 units (2 with bathroom). ¥5,616 single without bathroom; ¥10,584 double without bathroom, ¥11,664 double with bathroom; ¥14,580 triple without bathroom, ¥16,848 triple with bathroom. Closed Dec 29–Jan 3. Station: Nezu (exit 1, 7 min.). Amenities: 2 rental bikes (¥300/day); Wi-Fi.

Park Hyatt Tokyo ★★★ — When the Park Hyatt opened in 1994 as Tokyo's first skyscraper hotel, I knew it was bound for glory the moment I stepped out of the elevator onto the light-drenched 41st floor. No hotel yet offered views as surreal as this; and with its gorgeous layout, high-tech rooms, and polished service (check-in is at one of three sit-down desks), it seemed light-years ahead of the competition. No wonder it starred in the 2003 hit, "Lost in Translation" and has inspired many competitors. Rooms, measuring a minimum of 45 sq. m (480 sq. ft.), have walk-in closets, deep soaking tubs (and separate showers), original pieces of artwork, Japanese-style paper lamps, paneling made from 2,000-year-old wood from Hokkaido, and great views (although east views of Shinjuku's nightlife and the greenery of several parks are the most popular, the west side sometimes has glimpses of Mount Fuji). I also like the hotel's 2,000-book library, the New York Grill with outstanding views and cuisine, the free bikes for exploration of nearby Yoyogi, Chuo, and Shinjuku parks (complete with helmets and bottled water), and the 47th-floor fitness facilities overlooking the city, with free use of a sky-lit lap pool, gym, and studio offering complimentary yoga, aerobics, Pilates, and a relaxing "Good Night Sleep Stretch." I'm ready to move in.

3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com. tel. 03/5322-1234. 177 units. ¥65,530–¥137,000 single or double; from ¥130,000 suite. Station: Shinjuku (a 13-min. walk or 5-min. free shuttle ride); Hatsudai, on the Keio Line (7 min.); or Tochomae (8 min.). Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; babysitting; concierge; free entrance to gym and dramatic 20m indoor pool w/great views; room service; free shuttle service to Shinjuku Station up to 3 times an hour; spa; Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Hotel Century Southern Tower ★★★ — Conveniently located amid the skyscrapers of Shinjuku and connected to Takashimaya Shinjuku shopping complex via a footbridge, this superb choice offers smallish rooms with a view, at a fraction of the price of nearby competitors. Luggage carts instead of bellhops and vending machines in place of room service seem like no sacrifice at all when the rewards are mesmerizing panoramas from the 20th-floor lobby lounge and the rooms, which occupy the 22nd to 35th floors and come with skyline maps that help identify landmarks outside your window. The best—and most expensive—rooms (ask for one on a higher floor) face east or south, where views over central Tokyo take on a neon glow at night. Couples might note, however, that doubles are much smaller than twins.

2–2–1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku. www.southerntower.co.jp. tel. 03/5354-0111. 375 units. ¥17,480–¥19,000 single; ¥25,000–¥37,000 double. Station: Shinjuku (south exit, 3 min.). Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; Wi-Fi.

Tokyo Central Youth Hostel ★ — This spotless hostel is definitely the best place to stay in its price range—situated on the 18th and 19th floors of a high-rise, it offers fantastic Tokyo views from all its rooms. This location is prime real estate, and no private rooms are offered, so couples who wish to room together with their own private bathroom will likely be happier at low-cost business hotel chains like Toyoko Inn. Here, all beds are dormitory style, with four or more bunk beds to a room. Rooms are very pleasant, with big windows, and each bed has its own curtain for privacy and comes with a locker. There are also two tatami rooms sleeping four to six people as well as a tiny communal kitchen. In summer, it’s a good idea to reserve about 3 months in advance (reservations can be made a maximum of 3 months in advance). Check-in is from 3pm, the front door is locked at 11pm (lights out at midnight), and checkout is by 10am.

Central Plaza Building, 18th floor, 1–1 Kagura-kashi, Shinjuku-ku. www.jyh.gr.jp/tcyh. tel. 03/3235-1107. 158 beds. ¥4,050 adult (¥600 less for youth hostel members), ¥2,910 child. Breakfast ¥700. Station: Iidabashi (take the west exit from the JR station or the B2b subway exit, 2 min.). Amenities: Wi-Fi.

The Prince Gallery Tokyo Kioicho ★★★ — It’s all about the views at this striking hotel, which occupies the top seven floors of a 36-story high-rise in Akasaka. That’s apparent the moment you step out of the elevator to behold an eye-catching cocktail bar, framed by undulating glass walls that draw attention to a huge picture window broadcasting Tokyo in all its glory. Rooms, too, capitalize on the views, with day beds spreading the length of wall-to-wall windows. Even bathrooms have views, either via glass walls that look out past the room toward the window (thankfully those glass walls turn opaque with the push of a button) or from window-side tubs in more deluxe rooms. The hotel is also high-tech, with an iPad in each room controlling everything from lighting and temperature to blackout drapes and programmed with information on sightseeing, the weather, flight schedules and more. The indoor lap pool and state-of-the-art gym (free for hotel guests) as well as restaurants also take advantage of Tokyo as a backdrop. Yet it’s worth tearing your eyes away from the views to admire the 100 artworks by Japanese artists that grace the hotel’s public spaces and more than justify the word “gallery” in the hotel’s name. This is a great choice in the heart of the city.

1–2 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku. www.princehotels.com/en/kioicho. tel. 03/3234-1111. 250 units. ¥53,600–¥74,850 single; ¥59,400–¥82,000 double; from ¥71,280 club room; from ¥157,900 suite. Station: Akasaka-mitsuke or Nagatacho (1 min.). Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; concierge; executive-level rooms; exercise room; lap pool; spa; room service; Wi-Fi.

Hotel New Otani ★★ — This hotel’s most splendid feature is its garden, the best of any Tokyo hotel: more than 400 years old and once the private estate of a feudal lord. Spreading over 4 hectares (10 acres), it contains ponds filled with koi, waterfalls, arched bridges, manicured bushes (the azaleas are striking in spring), stone lanterns, and bamboo groves; it’s not unusual to see Japanese in their finest kimono gathered here for family photos. The large outdoor pool, shrouded by greenery, provides more privacy than most hotel pools and is free for members of Otani Club International (membership is free). That's about it, however, when it comes to communing with nature, as this is one of Tokyo's largest hotels (be sure to pick up hotel and garden maps at the concierge—you're going to need them). Its 33 restaurants and 6 bars draw huge crowds of locals, especially the very popular Garden Lounge, offering the best garden views. A huge variety of rooms are spread among the main building, built for the 1964 Olympics and offering up-close views of the garden, and the 40-story Garden Tower, with glittering city vistas. Rates are the same regardless of view, so request a room facing the garden. Hotel facilities are so exhaustive, this is like a city within a city; folks who shun crowds may be happier elsewhere.

4–1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku. www.newotani.co.jp. tel. 03/3265-1111. 1,479 units. ¥23,760–¥49,300 single; ¥25,000–¥52,500 double; from ¥50,400 Executive House Zen; from ¥89,250 suite. Station: Akasaka-mitsuke or Nagatacho (3 min.). Amenities: 33 restaurants and cafes; 6 bars and lounges; children’s day-care center for ages 2 months to 5 years (fee: ¥6,000 for 2 hr.); concierge; executive-level rooms; small exercise room; health club w/indoor pool and spa (fee: ¥5,400; ¥3,240 before 10am); medical and dental clinics; art museum; outdoor pool (fee: ¥2,000; free for Club International members); post office; room service; tea-ceremony room; lighted outdoor tennis courts; Wi-Fi.

Tokyu Stay Aoyama Premier ★★★ — Tokyu Stay hotels are designed for business travelers who intend to stay put for a while and want the comforts of home. Rooms come with extra storage space, kitchenettes (including cooking utensils and tableware; the cheapest have microwaves but no stovetop), and even combination washers/dryers. Of the 18 Tokyu Stay hotels in town, the Aoyama Premier is the chain's star property, with a great location near Roppongi and Aoyama, rooms just for ladies, and good city views from its perch atop an office building. Cheaper locations include those in Ikebukuro, Nishi-Shinjuku, Suidobashi, Gotanda, Shibuya, Nihombashi, and Higashi-Ginza. Check the website for details.

2–27–18 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. www.tokyustay.co.jp. tel. 03/3497-0109. 170 units. ¥11,760–¥23,100 single; ¥16,900–¥32,400 double. Discounts for stays longer than 6 nights. Station: Gaienmae (exit 1a, 2 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi.

Hotel Asia Center of Japan (Asia Kaikan) ★★ — A great location in central Tokyo, a Japanese restaurant popular with area office workers for its ¥1,500 lunch (including a salad bar and choice of main entree), and reasonable rates for Western-style rooms have made this a favorite domicile for everyone from business travelers and educators to youth groups for decades. Established in 1957 and recently renovated, it has the atmosphere of a college dorm, with tiny, mostly single rooms equipped with the basics: a double-size bed (all beds are extra long), wall-mounted TV, and desk. These are great for one person, but they’re also sold for two people at the same price, making for inexpensive (if cramped) quarters. There are only 47 twin rooms (including twins with a sofa that can be turned into an extra bed). Probably my favorite feature of the hotel is that it's in a quiet residential area but only a 15-minute walk to Roppongi or Akasaka, or one station away by subway. Aoyama Dori, lined with shops and restaurants on its way to Omotesando, is just a 5-minute walk away.

8–10–32 Akasaka, Minato-ku. www.asiacenter.or.jp. tel. 03/3402-6111. 175 units. ¥9,000–¥16,000 single; ¥9,000–¥24,000 double. Station: Aoyama-Itchome (exit 4, 5 min.) or Nogizaka (exit 3, 5 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi.

Roppongi

Moderate

APA Hotel Roppongi Ekimae ★ — APA hotels have been popping up around Japan like wildfire. Every time I turn around there’s a new one in Tokyo, with 55 to date and undoubtedly more on the way. This one, open since 2016, is aimed at both business and leisure travelers, with just eight rooms on its 15 floors. The single and double rooms are equally tiny, while pricier twin rooms give you double the space. Views are confined to other surrounding buildings, but the higher the floor the better. Otherwise, this is your basic no-nonsense hotel, but its location in the heart of Tokyo’s nightlife (and practically in front of the Roppongi subway station) makes it a very convenient choice.

6–7–8 Roppongi, Minato-ku. www.apahotel.com. tel. 03/5413-6351. 125 units. ¥8,000–¥18,000 single; ¥11,850–¥50,000 double. Station: Roppongi (1 min.). Amenities: Restaurant/bar; Wi-Fi.

the b roppongi ★★ — The b roppongi opened in 2004 as the first of 14 business hotels under the "b" brand. Its quirky name is based on four concepts: a comfortable bed, a good breakfast (which nonetheless costs extra), a balanced life, and a contemporary and relaxed atmosphere for conducting business. What this boils down to is a boutique business hotel that is more stylish than most of its genre, with beds that are indeed comfortable and have focused reading lamps. Otherwise, standard and superior rooms are your typical business-hotel tiny size, so travelers yearning for a bit more space might want to splurge on a deluxe room, which offers both more windows and more space. Deluxe Plus rooms have corner locations with even more windows, plus a kitchenette. Facilities are practically nonexistent, unless you count the free coffee in the lobby, but Roppongi's nightlife is just outside the door. Note that the hotel is opening an addition in 2019. Other b hotels in Tokyo are in Ochanomizu, Akasaka, Ikebukuro, Shimbashi, and other locations; check the website.

3–9–8 Roppongi, Minato-ku. www.itheb-hotels.com. tel. 03/5412-0451. 76 units. ¥7,350–¥18,300 single; ¥11,250–¥27,000 double. Station: Roppongi (1 min.). Amenities: Restaurant/bar; Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Arca Torre ★ — This 10-story business hotel has a great location on Roppongi Dori near Roppongi Crossing, making it popular with business types and tourists on a budget. Its mostly single rooms are small but cheerful, with complimentary bottled water in the otherwise empty fridge; two people can opt to stay in a single room but they’ll be happier in a double. Rooms facing the back are quiet but face another building with glazed windows and are rather dark. If you opt for a room facing the front, spring for the more expensive rooms on higher floors above the freeway; your views from the cheaper rooms on lower floors will be of cars and, at certain times of the day, traffic jams.

6–1–23 Roppongi, Minato-ku. www.arktower.co.jp/arcatorre. tel. 03/3404-5111. 76 units. ¥9,420–¥13,740 single; ¥10,500–¥18,360 double. Station: Roppongi (1 min.). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu ★★ — If you saw the movie Lost in Translation, you might remember a scene of an intersection that's crazy busy with pedestrians walking in all directions when the light turns red. That's Shibuya Scramble, and it's just a stone's throw from this hotel, located across from bustling Shibuya Station and connected by underground passage and a footbridge. (Tip: The footbridge is a good place to photograph Shibuya Scramble.) Located above Mark City shopping mall, with reception on the fifth floor, it's a business hotel that also appeals to women with its women-only floor accessed by a special key and offering extras like face cream, jewelry boxes, and face steamers. Rooms are on the 7th to 24th floors, with those higher up facing Shinjuku costing more but providing great night views; the 25th-floor French restaurant also has great views along with reasonable prices. There are many dining options near the hotel, including the Center Gai nightlife district, a pedestrian lane lined with restaurants and bars, and the Hikarie complex.

1–12–2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku. www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com. tel. 03/5457-0109. 408 units. ¥24,000–¥31,000 single; ¥31,600–¥54,800 double. Station: Shibuya (1 min. by footbridge). Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; room service; Wi-Fi.

Other Neighborhoods

Shiba Park Hotel ★★ — This is a well-respected older hotel, tucked away in a quiet residential area near Shiba Park, Zozoji Temple, and Tokyo Tower (and a sobering 25-min. walk from Roppongi nightlife). Friendly staff and the hotel's low-key atmosphere make it more intimate than the beehive activity of Tokyo's larger hotels, though all bets are off in winter, when it serves as a popular way station for Australians headed for the slopes. The hotel consists of a main building and an annex across the street in back. The main 151 Building is the pricier but better choice, with shoji sliding doors separating rooms from bathrooms and other Japanese touches, while the Annex Building attracts groups and families with its mostly twin rooms and larger units that sleep up to four people. But one of the things that impresses me most is its Japanese Culture Salon Sakura, offering daily morning and early afternoon cultural experiences, from calligraphy and origami to the tea ceremony.

1–5–10 Shiba-koen, Minato-ku. www.shibaparkhotel.com. tel. 03/3433-4141. 169 units. ¥14,400–¥21,000 single; ¥15,300–¥29,000 double. Station: Onarimon (2 min.), Daimon (4 min.), or Hamamatsucho (8 min.). Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; room service; Wi-Fi.

The Hilltop Hotel (Yama-no-Ue Hotel) ★★ — This delightfully old-fashioned, unpretentious (some might say dowdy) relic qualifies as historic in contemporary Tokyo. Built in 1937 and serving as a research institute and then as living quarters for U.S. occupation forces before becoming a hotel in 1954, it remains true to its past, not much different from when it was a favorite retreat of writers like novelist Yukio Mishima. With a distinctive Art Deco facade, the hotel has furnished some of its rooms with such endearing, homey touches as fringed lampshades, doilies, and cherrywood furniture. Some twins even combine a tatami area and shoji with beds; the most expensive twin overlooks its own Japanese garden. While not as conveniently located as other tourist hotels, this is a nostalgia-invoking place (don’t be surprised if reception staffers remember you by name), hidden on a hill near Meiji University and near restaurants, bookshops, and other student hangouts, which bring lots of young people and liveliness to the area. And though small by Tokyo standards, this hotel has an impressive number of restaurants and bars, due, no doubt, to its popularity among steadfast local fans.

1–1 Surugadai, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. www.yamanoue-hotel.co.jp. tel. 03/3293-2311. 35 units. ¥17,000–¥18,000 single; ¥24,000–¥32,000 double. Rates exclude service charge and taxes. Station: Ochanomizu or Shin-Ochanomizu (8 min.) or Jimbocho (5 min.). Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; room service; Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Kimi Ryokan ★★★ — This inexpensive Japanese-style inn has long been on the international radar as one of the best in Tokyo for its traditional details and up-to-date conveniences. Flower arrangements (created by English-speaking owner Minato Kisaburo), shoji screens, scrolls of calligraphy and other artwork, a public bath made of cypress, and polished wood-floor corridors where traditional Japanese music plays faintly in the background are complemented by a lounge with cable TV (a good place to meet fellow travelers, who are mostly in their twenties), a kitchen, a Japanese cypress bath you can lock for privacy, an inviting rooftop terrace, and a bulletin board and newsletter providing information on rental apartments and jobs, mostly as English teachers. Guest rooms are all Japanese style and rather small, with the cheapest room (for one or two persons) measuring four-and-a-half tatami mats, and the larger rooms (for two or three guests) six mats or eight mats (sleeping up to five persons); bathrooms are shared. Be sure to download the area map on Kimi's website—this place is a bit difficult to find, and note that there's a 2am curfew.

2–36–8 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku. www.kimi-ryokan.jp. tel. 03/3971-3766. 38 units (none with private bathroom). ¥5,400 single; ¥8,100–¥9,180 double; ¥12,150–¥14,580 triple. Station: Ikebukuro (west exit; 7 min.). Amenities: Wi-Fi.

Shinagawa Tobu Hotel ★★ — A step up from the nearby Toyoko Inn (see below) in both style and amenities, this property opened in 2017 with a much snazzier lobby than the usual business hotel, with red ceramic bowls on brown walls serving as artwork and eye-catching red wingback chairs with black pillows, plus an Italian restaurant. Several different types of rooms are available, from the most common tiny economy double with a semi-double bed (okay for one person but challenging for two) to six much larger standard doubles with a true double bed and twins that sleep from two to four people with the addition of extra beds. But the main reason to stay here is its proximity to Shinagawa Station, providing connections to Narita Airport or via the Shinkansen bullet train to the rest of Japan.

4–7–6 Takanawa, Minato-ku. www.shinagawatobuhotel.com. tel. 03/3447-0111. 190 units. ¥9,000–¥16,000 single; ¥10,740–¥26,000 double. Station: Shinagawa (5 min.). From JR station’s Takanawa (west) exit, cross the street, walk one block and turn left. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi.

Toyoko Inn Tokyo Shinagawa-Eki Takanawaguchi ★ — Business hotels were often dingy and dismal before this chain raised the bar a few decades back, offering clean and inexpensive rooms and a slew of freebies that have since become standard, including free Internet, lobby computers guests can use for free, and even free breakfast. Now with more than 250 locations throughout Japan, usually within easy walking distance of stations and noted for having managers that are mostly women, it offers very tiny rooms that are nonetheless equipped with everything guests need. This one is convenient for its location near Shinagawa station, but other Tokyo locations include those in Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Asakusa, Ueno, Nihombashi, and Akihabara.

4–23–2 Takanawa, Minato-ku, Tokyo 108-0074. www.toyoko-inn.com. tel. 03/3280-1045. 180 units. ¥8,100–¥8,424 single; ¥9,720–¥11,880 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Station: Shinagawa (3 min.). From JR station’s Takanawa (west) exit, cross the street and turn left. Amenities: Wi-Fi.

For the sake of convenience, the price for two people in a room is listed as a “double” in this book. Japanese hotels, however, differentiate between rooms with a double bed or two twin beds, usually with different prices. Although most hotels charge more for a twin room, sometimes the opposite is true; so be sure to inquire about prices for both. Note, too, that hotels usually have more twin rooms than doubles, for the simple reason that Japanese couples, used to their own futons, traditionally prefer twin beds.