Hospital de Tavera
Cardinal Juan Pardo de Tavera, the 16th-century Toledo archbishop who was a close confident of Emperor Carlos V, was not one to hide his light beneath a bushel. He had this elegant Renaissance palace with beautiful arcaded twin courtyards built in a style far more grandiose than necessary to serve as a hospital for the indigent—but maybe just grandiose enough to serve as a pantheon recalling the greatness of its patron. The building represents the finest mature work of local architect Alonso de Covarrubias, who also designed the Hospital de Santa Cruz, now the Museo de Santa Cruz. he building itself is clearly visible in an unfinished state in El Greco’s View and Plan of Toledo in the Museo del Greco. A portrait of Carlos V by Titian dominates the banquet hall.
Today, Tavera’s legacy houses an art museum with a fine collection of Spanish paintings from the 15th to the 18th centuries. Among them are several El Grecos, including Virgin of the Good Milk, a public service painting promoting breastfeeding, and a ghostly portrait of Tavera himself, painted after his death.
The cardinal’s elaborate marble tomb, by Alonso Berruguete, lies in the adjoining church, and you can’t help feeling he’d be pleased you’re here. Visits are accompanied, starting on the hour, and include a tour of the antique pharmacy. The hospital is located outside the old city walls at the bottom of the hill. Take bus line 5 or 6 from Plaza de Zocodover and consider nearby El Peñon for lunch.
Cardinal Juan Pardo de Tavera, the 16th-century Toledo archbishop who was a close confident of Emperor Carlos V, was not one to hide his light beneath a bushel. He had this elegant Renaissance palace with beautiful arcaded twin courtyards built in a style far more grandiose than necessary to serve as a hospital for the indigent—but maybe just grandiose enough to serve as a pantheon recalling the greatness of its patron. The building represents the finest mature work of local architect Alonso de Covarrubias, who also designed the Hospital de Santa Cruz, now the Museo de Santa Cruz. he building itself is clearly visible in an unfinished state in El Greco’s View and Plan of Toledo in the Museo del Greco. A portrait of Carlos V by Titian dominates the banquet hall.
Today, Tavera’s legacy houses an art museum with a fine collection of Spanish paintings from the 15th to the 18th centuries. Among them are several El Grecos, including Virgin of the Good Milk, a public service painting promoting breastfeeding, and a ghostly portrait of Tavera himself, painted after his death.
The cardinal’s elaborate marble tomb, by Alonso Berruguete, lies in the adjoining church, and you can’t help feeling he’d be pleased you’re here. Visits are accompanied, starting on the hour, and include a tour of the antique pharmacy. The hospital is located outside the old city walls at the bottom of the hill. Take bus line 5 or 6 from Plaza de Zocodover and consider nearby El Peñon for lunch.
Details
Bookstore
Available as paperback
and as e-book.
