Once you’ve made it up the hill to the old city, Toledo is easy to get around on foot, though you’re bound to get lost in its medieval alleyways at some stage. There are so many interesting things to see that, unless you’re staying several days, it doesn’t make sense to try to do everything. Better to pick a handful of gems and go deeper. At first sight, the pulsera turística, a wristband giving access to seven historic sites for 9€ (www.toledomonumental.com) looks attractive, but several key places are not included, and you may not have time to visit all those that are. To get your bearings, consider taking the free walking tour in English that leaves the Zocodover every morning at 11am (www.cuentametoledo.com; tel. 60-893-58-56; look for the yellow umbrella). An entertaining guide will show you the main sites from the outside and tell some interesting stories. You can then go back and explore in more detail the sights that most interest you. Although there’s no charge, most people tip around 10€ for the 90-minute tour.

While wandering through the heart of Toledo is a delight, it’s almost as memorable to view Toledo from afar. In many respects, it still looks as it did when El Greco painted it. For the best perspective, you will need a car. Take the Carretera de Circunvalación, the road that runs 3km (1 3/4 miles) on the far bank of the Río Tajo. This road makes a circular loop of the river from the Alcántara to the San Martín Bridge. Clinging to the hillsides are farmsteads (cigarrales) with rustic dwellings and extensive olive groves. The cigarrales of the Imperial City were immortalized by Tirso de Molina, the 17th-century dramatist, in his trilogy Los Cigarrales de Toledo.

If you want to delve deeper into the Spanish ceramic tradition, consider a trip to Talavera la Reina, 76km (47 miles) west of Toledo, where most of the best pottery is made. Since Talavera is the province’s largest city, it is hardly a picture-postcard little potter’s village. Most shops lie along the town’s main street, where store after store sells distinctive pieces in the characteristic multicolored designs. Make a point of visiting the “ceramic Sistine Chapel,” as the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Prado ★, Los Jardines del Prado 6, is known. The stunning Museo Ruiz de Luna, Plaza de San Agustin 13 ([tel] 925-800-149; www.patrimoniohistoricoclm.es), is built on the site of a 10th-century convent and traces the design evolution of Talavera wares from the 16th through the 20th centuries. From February (when they arrive from Africa) until August (when the chicks fledge), you’ll also see storks nesting on Talavera buildings.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.