While wandering through the heart of Toledo is a delight, it’s almost as memorable to view Toledo from afar. In many respects, it still looks as it did when El Greco painted it. For the best perspective, you will need a car. Take the Carretera de Circunvalación, the road that runs 3km (1 3/4 miles) on the far bank of the Río Tajo. This road makes a circular loop of the river from the Alcántara to the San Martín Bridge. Clinging to the hillsides are farmsteads (cigarrales) with rustic dwellings and extensive olive groves. The cigarrales of the Imperial City were immortalized by Tirso de Molina, the 17th-century dramatist, in his trilogy Los Cigarrales de Toledo.
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