Come nightfall, the throngs of Toledo tourists seem to vanish, and locals seek out nightlife mainly in the modern city far from the historic attractions. In the old city, you can hear recorded music at Bar La Abadía, Plaza San Nicolás 3 (tel. 92-525-11-40), the restaurant-bar where locals crowd elbow to elbow for pints of beer, glasses of wine, and access to the music of New York, Los Angeles, and London. O’Brien’s Irish Pub, Armas 12 (tel. 92-521-26-65), might seem more appropriate for the streets of Dublin than for old Toledo, but like Irish pubs everywhere, it attracts a young and thirsty crowd; there’s live music on Thursday nights. A truly hip wine-bar hangout is the gourmet shop owned by super-chef Adolfo Muñoz, Adolfo Colleción. Enjoy wine and tapas, and mingle with Toledo’s finest.

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