Planning a trip to Top End

Getting Around

The Automobile Association of the Northern Territory (AANT), 79-81 Smith St., Darwin, NT 0800 (tel. 08/8925 5901; www.aant.com.au), is a good source of maps and road advice. See also the Northern Territory Tourist Commission's site, www.travelnt.com, which has sections designed specifically for those setting out on a driving holiday.

Normal restricted speed limits apply in all urban areas, but speed limits on Northern Territory highways (introduced only in 2006) are considerably higher than in other states. The speed limit is set at 130kmph (81 mph) on the Stuart, Arnhem, Barkly, and Victoria highways, while rural roads are designated 110kmph (68 mph) speed limits unless otherwise signposted. However, drivers should be careful to keep to a reasonable speed and leave enough distance to stop safely. The road fatality toll in the Northern Territory is high: 27 fatalities per 100,000 people each year, compared with the Australian average of 8 per 100,000.

Most Aboriginal land is open to visitors, but in some cases you must obtain a permit first. If you are taking a tour, this will be taken care of, but independent travelers should apply to the relevant Aboriginal Land Council (visit www.nlc.org.au for more information) for permission. Most permits are free, but some entry fees may apply.

Always carry 4 liters (1 gal.) of drinking water per person a day when walking (increase to 1 liter/ 1/4 gal. per person per hour in summer). Wear a broad-brimmed hat, high-factor sunscreen, and insect repellent containing DEET (such as Aerogard and RID brands) to protect against the dangerous Ross River Fever virus carried by mosquitoes in these parts.

Deadly marine stingers put a stop to ocean swimming in the Top End from roughly October to April or May.

When to Go

Most folks visit the Top End in the winter Dry season ("the Dry"). It's more than likely that not a cloud will grace the sky, and temperatures will be comfortable, even hot in the middle of the day. The Dry runs from late April to late October or early November. It is high season, so book every hotel or tour in advance.

The Wet season ("the Wet") runs from November through March or April, sometimes starting as early as October and sometimes lasting a few weeks longer in the Kimberley. While rain does not fall 24 hours a day, it comes down in buckets for an hour or two each day, mainly in the late afternoon or at night. The land floods as far as the eye can see, the humidity is murderous, and the temperatures hit nearly 104°F (40°C). The floods cut off many attractions, and some tour companies close for the season. Cyclones may hit the coast during the Wet, with the same savagery and frequency as hurricanes hit Florida. Some find the "buildup" to the Wet, in October and November, when clouds gather but do not break, to be the toughest time.

Despite that, traveling in the Wet has its own special appeal and you'll see things you'd never encounter at other times of year. Waterfalls become massive torrents, lightning storms crackle across the afternoon sky, the land turns emerald green, cloud cover keeps the worst of the sun off you, crowds vanish, and there is an eerie beauty to it all. Keep your plans flexible to account for floods, take it slowly in the heat, and carry lots of drinking water. Even if you normally camp, sleep in air-conditioned accommodations now. Book tours ahead, because most operate on a reduced schedule. See the tips about traveling in the Wet, below.