Toronto food critic Chris Nuttall-Smith has called Actinolite one of the most essential places to eat in Ontario, if not in Canada. There's a purity to the restaurant's food-driven directive: to show off Southern Ontario’s landscape through cooking. In spring, expect fresh foraged ramps and fiddleheads. In summer, sorrel and marigolds are snagged from the garden out back. Crops are preserved into pickles, jellies, and more, only to return to the menu in different incarnations. Ramps come back months later, this time adding pickled punch. Chef Justin Cournoyer is a slow-food evangelist. “For everything there is a season. Even meat,” he once told me. This is why summer menus are vegetable-powered splendors, while winter is a heartier affair.