For some of the best Thai food on the island, head for Saffron on the Sea (13/10 Moo 4; daily 8am-midnight; tel. 03955-1253), on Hat Kai Mook, where dishes like steamed lime and chili fish and crispy spring rolls are packed with fresh veggies and have a delightfully crisp wrap. Another simple Thai restaurant worth tracking down is KaTi Culinary (48/7 Moo 4; Mon-Sat noon-10pm and Sun 6-10pm; tel. 081093-0408) on Klong Phrao Beach. They’re famous for their coconut-based curries and spicy Isan salads. They have a kids’ menu and offer cooking classes. For a picnic lunch, head to Crust Bakery (www.fb.com/CrustBakery.KohChang.Thailand; daily 7am-5pm; tel. 03955-7157) for fresh bread, sandwiches, and cakes in Klong Phrao (opposite the temple). Vegetarians should visit The Spa (tel. 03955-2733), at Salak Kok on the west coast of the island. On Had Klong Phrao you’ll find Cinnamon, at Aana resort (www.aanaresort.com; tel. 03955-1359), which serves up Thai seafood favorites.

Nightlife and cheap eats are available all down the west coast from Had Sai Khao (White Sand Beach), through Had Kai Mook (Pearl Beach), Laem Chaichet, Had Klong Phrao, Kai Bae, Had Tha Nam (Lonely Beach), and Bai Lan down to Bang Bao. Fresh-caught seafood, like grouper and jumbo tiger prawns, can also be found at no-name beach shacks on the east coast. Grouper stuffed with chili and lime is an outstanding local specialty.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.