The main reason why most visitors trek all the way out to Trujillo is for its beaches. Wide golden sands, gentle breezes, very few waves, and even fewer beachgoers make the beaches here seem like deserted islands. The best places to enjoy the sun are in front of the champas below the fort, where you can borrow a beach chair, or near the airport and the Christopher Columbus Resort. Emptier beaches can be found hidden below the road in the small coves that stretch for several kilometers to the west of town.
To the west of Trujillo, down a potholed dirt road, is a string of Garífuna fishing villages. All are home to a few thatched seafood shacks, a basic hospedaje or two, punta music flowing through the air, and serene beaches with rarely a soul in sight. Santa Fe, 12km (7 1/2 miles) from Trujillo, is my favorite stop because of its legendary Comedor Caballero, aka Pete's Place, a traditional Garífuna restaurant on the beach with some of the best seafood on the North Coast. A bit farther out -- and even more difficult to reach -- are the villages and beaches of San Antonio and Guadeloupe. Buses leave from the Cementerio Viejo in the center of town to these villages several times per day.
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