Side Trip From Trujillo, Spain: The Route of the Emperor

In 1556, Carlos V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain, surprised everyone by announcing his abdication. The world's most powerful man planned to spend his remaining days in prayer at a remote monastery in Yuste, northern Extremadura. The pope called it “the strangest thing ever seen”, and things went badly from the start. The apartments at the monastery weren't ready, and heavy rains made the mountain roads impassable, so Carlos had to be carried by litter to the Castillo de Oropesa in Jarandilla de la Vera. It was four months before he could travel at last to Yuste.

Each February, local enthusiasts in Renaissance costume commemorate that journey by taking the Ruta del Emperador (Route of the Emperor) from Jarandilla to Yuste along ancient paths, pausing in historic villages along the way. You too can stay in Castillo de Oropesa, now the atmospheric Parador de Jarandilla, Avda. García Prieto, 1, Jarandilla de la Vera (tel. 92-756-01-17).

Then travel the 11km (6[bf]3/4 miles) to Cuacos de Yuste to visit the Monasterio de San Jerónimo de Yuste, Carretera de Yuste, s/n (tel. 90-204-44-54). Its austere furnishings tell the story of an eccentric retirement. You’ll see the clocks with which the ex-emperor became obsessed, a specially reclining gout chair, and his bed chamber—designed so he could hear Mass performed in the adjoining chapel. The cloistered retreat is surrounded by gardens with wonderful views, but Carlos barely got to enjoy it. He died in 1558 of malaria, probably contracted from mosquitoes breeding in the garden ponds he had designed. It’s a sad tale, but the inhabitants of La Vera are understandably proud of their famous, if short-term, resident. The monastery is open Tuesday to Sunday 10am‒6pm (7pm in summer). Admission is 7€ adults, 4€ seniors and students, free for children under 5.