To see the sun rise in Sian Ka’an as the Maya did, you can stay in CESiaK’s Boca Paila Camps. The eco-lodge’s tent cabins are tucked into the edge of the jungle on a clean, white beach, raised on platforms to avoid interfering with the sand’s natural processes. The sheets, towels, and solid wood furniture make it feel less like camping, but when night falls and you’re stumbling around by flashlight, it feels plenty rustic. Guests share showers and scrupulously clean bathrooms with composting toilets. The camp has no electricity—guests get battery-powered lamps—but wind and solar power provide hot water. Things do not always run perfectly smoothly: The restaurant, which is reasonably priced and turns out better meals than it has any right to in this remote location, sometimes runs out of ingredients for a popular menu item.  The cabins need refurbishment; those in the jungle have rickety stairs to the tent platform. A few face the ocean and have fabulous views, but they can be uncomfortable if sand is blowing around. The rooftop lookout is the most popular spot at sunset and the panorama of sea, sky, and endless wilderness is amazing. Bring along sunscreen, bug repellant, and a flashlight. The staff knows the reserve’s plants, animals, and local culture backward and forward and leads fascinating tours through the canals.