Planning a trip to Turkey

Entry Requirements & Customs

Visas

Because of the seamless ease of obtaining an entry visa on arrival, there is no need to acquire one prior to departure. The visa windows, where functionaries collect payment (in US$, £, €, or Turkish Lira) are prominently located adjacent to the Customs area. Be sure to pay up (and get your visa sticker affixed to your passport) before queuing in the Customs line. An entry visa for Turkey is required for citizens of the U.S. ($20), Canada (US$60 or 45€); the U.K. (£10/$20/15€) and Australia (US$20 or 15€). All of these visas are valid for 3 months and multiple entries. A valid passport is sufficient for citizens of New Zealand.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Turkey -- The Turkish government has established a list of items that may be brought into the country duty-free. In addition to personal effects, travelers are permitted one video player; one laptop computer; one portable radio/tape player; one pair of binoculars (no night vision allowed); one camera and five rolls of film; one typewriter; personal sporting equipment; necessary medical items; gifts not exceeding $300; spare car parts; and various other relatively improbable items for the average tourist. (A complete list is available through the Turkish Embassy at www.turkishembassy.org) Sharp instruments and weapons may not be brought into the country without special permission (diving and camping knives included). Obviously, the importation, buying, selling, and consumption of marijuana and other narcotics is strictly forbidden. You shouldn't need to watch Midnight Express to figure that one out.

What You Can Take Home from Turkey -- For valuables purchased during your stay, be prepared to provide receipts or other proof of purchase -- particularly for that 4*6 prize silk Hereke -- to avoid problems with Turkish Customs when you leave and to aid in declarations in your home country. Forget about having your carpet salesman lie on the official Certificate of Origin, because the U.S. immigration police are prepared to consult their little carpet blue book if you try to slip through without paying up. Be aware that the authentic 16th-century porcelain soup tureen that you bought or those authentic ancient coins attached to your new necklace are either fake or unable to make the journey with you; it is illegal to take antiquities or anything of historical value out of the country. To enforce this, the Turkish government requires that anything dating to the end of the 19th century be authenticated by a museum official before its exportation can even be considered. It is also illegal to carry out tobacco seeds and plants, or hides, skins, or clothing made from wild animals. For items dating prior to the 20th century, permission plus a certificate of authenticity from a museum official is needed. Minerals require special documentation obtainable from the General Directorate of Mining Exploration and Research in Ankara (tel. 0312/287-3430; www.mta.gov.tr).

Medical Requirements

There are no severe health risks in travel to western Turkey, nor are vaccinations required. Visitors journeying to southeastern Turkey (not covered in this guide) may want to consider a prophylactic treatment for malaria, particularly prior to travel near the Syrian border and between the months of May and October when transmission rates are highest. Because of globalization and the increasing ease of physical movement across borders, travelers should also ensure that their own and their children's vaccinations are up-to-date, including measles, the incidence of which has been growing in the U.K., as well as parts of Africa.

Fast Facts

American Express -- Now that Garanti Bank manages American Express financial services in Turkey, Amex is widely accepted. Türk Ekspres is the official representative of Amex Travel Related Services in Turkey, at Cumhuriyet Cad. 47/1, 3rd floor, Taksim (tel. 0212/235-9500; www.turkekspres.com.tr). For customer assistance with your Amex traveler's checks in Turkey, call toll free tel. 0800/4491-4820. Amex also provides a toll-free number for their Global Assist service (tel. 01-715/343-7977).

Area Codes -- The three-digit area code for the European side of Istanbul is 212; for the Asian side, dial 216. Ankara telephone numbers are preceded by 312.

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 5pm. Government offices are open Monday through Friday 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5:30pm. Official hours of operation for shops are Monday through Saturday 9:30am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm, but I've yet to find a store closed at lunchtime, or a shop outside of the Grand Bazaar or the Egyptian Spice Market closed on Sundays. Museums and palaces are generally open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30am to 5 or 5:30pm, while the closing day for palaces is Tuesday, Thursday, or both. Museum opening hours are generally extended by an hour or two in summer; note that museums generally also stop selling tickets up to an hour prior to the official closing time.

Drinking Laws -- For a predominantly Muslim country, it might be surprising that alcohol is even sold in Turkey. The truth is, beer, wine, and the national drink raki have quite a loyal following here. Alcohol is available for purchase in restaurants, bars, convenience stores, and in grocery aisles. In recent years, however, the current, Islamic-leaning government has done its part by setting sky-high taxes on alcohol and restaurants operated by the municipality run a dry operation. Theoretically you have to be at least 18 to purchase or consume it.

Electricity -- The standard is 220 volts, and outlets are compatible with the round European two-prong plug. You may be able to leave your hair dryer at home, as most hotel rooms come equipped with at least a weak one. Visitors from America and Canada with electronics that need to be recharged will need an adapter, a transformer, or both, depending on the appliance

Embassies & Consulates -- In the U.S. -- The Turkish Embassy is located at 2525 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/612-6700; fax 202/612-6744; www.washington.emb.mfa.gov.tr). Turkey also maintains consulates in Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, and New York as well as honorary consulates in Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Detroit, Flowood (MS), St. Louis, San Francisco, and Seattle. For contact information, visit the embassy website.

In Canada -- Turkish Embassy, 197 Wurtemburg St., Ottawa, ON K1N 8L9 (tel. 613/789-4044; fax 613/789-3442; www.turkishembassy.com). You can also call the Consular Call Center at tel. 888/566-7656.

In Australia & New Zealand -- Turkish Embassy, Canberra, 6 Moona Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6234-0000; fax 02/6273-4402; www.kanberra.be.mfa.gov.tr).

In the U.K. -- Turkish Embassy, 43 Belgrave Sq., London SW1X 8PA (tel. 020/7393-0202; fax 020/7393-0066; www.londra.be.mfa.gov.tr).

Emergencies -- Local emergency numbers are fire tel. 110, police tel. 155, and ambulance tel. 112. Emergencies may also warrant a call to Medline (tel. 0212/444-1212, 24 hr. a day), a private company equipped to deal with any medical crisis, including ambulance transfers (cost varies according to distance), lab tests, and home treatment. The International Hospital also provides ambulance services.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- The cost of petrol in Turkey is among the highest in Europe. As of June 2010, 1 liter of gasoline sold in Turkey for 3.75TL. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Holidays -- Most shops and official offices and museums are closed on January 1, April 23 (National Independence & Children's Day), May 19 (Youth & Sports Day), August 30 (Victory Day), and October 28 to 29 (Republic Day). These same establishments also generally close on the first day of religious holidays. During the 30 days of Ramadan, many shops and businesses close early, while many restaurants either close down completely or offer limited menus at lunchtime.

Hospitals -- For optimal local emergency care, put yourself in the hands of one of the reputed private hospital facilities: the new Koç American Hospital, Güzelbahçe Sok., Nisantasi (tel. 0212/311-2000); Metropolitan Florence Nightingale Hospital, Cemil Aslangüder Sok. 8, Gayrettepe (tel. 0212/288-3400); the International Hospital, Istanbul Cad. 82, Yesilköy (tel. 0212/663-3000); the German Hospital, Siraselviler Cad. 119, Taksim (tel. 0212/293-2150); and the Or-Ahayim Balat Jewish Hospital, with an on-site international patient coordinator, Demirhisar Cad. 46-48 Ayvansaray (tel. 0212/491-0000), are just a few of the establishments with reliable English-speaking staff. Don't forget that payment is required at the time of treatment.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Internet Access -- Almost all hotels offer Internet access via a computer in the lobby, wireless, or an in-room ISDN line free or for a nominal fee. Internet cafes in Istanbul are generally bunched around Taksim Square, on the upper floors of the side streets perpendicular to Istiklal Caddesi, and more sparsely along Divanyolu in the Old City.

Language -- English, French, and German are widespread, and increasingly so are Russian, Japanese, and even Korean. For the linguistically challenged, it may not be so unusual to encounter some minor language barriers (including, surprisingly enough, in established restaurants), but the inherent willingness of the Turks to help combined with a little sign language and a lot of laughs will almost always do the trick.

Laundromats -- All hotels provide laundry and dry-cleaning services, seeing to it in the process that they make a huge profit on the transaction. Otherwise, the Turkish word for a Laundromat is çamasirhane.

Legal Aid -- Foreigners and tourists get the benefit of the doubt in most every run-in with the law, but some things you just can't talk your way out of. For real trouble, contact your embassy or consulate for assistance and ask for their list of private law firms catering to English-speaking foreigners. If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Insist on paying the fine directly into the hands of the municipal clerk.

Mail -- The PTT, hard to miss with its black and yellow signs, offers the usual postal services, in addition to selling tokens (jetons) and phone cards for the phone booths located in and around the post office and in most public places. Postcards cost 65kr to Europe and 80kr to all other continents. Rates for an international express mail letter begin at 22TL and go up to 40TL for deliveries farther afield. The PTT also has currency exchange and traveler's check services. Delivery however is notoriously slow, so I'd stick with one of the private carriers mentioned such as UPS or DHL.

Newspapers & Magazines -- For local and national information, the Hürriyet Daily News & Economic Review (formerly the Turkish Daily News) gives a basic rundown of the day's headlines in print and on the Internet (www.hurriyet.com.tr) in English. The national Today's Zaman, www.zaman.com, also has a bilingual website. For local listings, the Guide Istanbul and Time Out Istanbul contain essential listings for tourists. Both are available at newsstands; the former is provided free at some hotels.

Passports -- See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport.

Police -- To reach the police, dial tel. 155.

Smoking -- A local saying goes something like this: "Eat like a Turk, smoke like a Turk," which roughly translates to "don't expect anyone to comply with nonsmoking laws." Since the smoking ban went into effect in July 2009 (prohibiting smoking in all public places, including restaurants!), there have been reports of acts of quiet civil disobedience, although it remains to be seen if the fines will be enough of a deterrent.

Taxes -- A flat 18% VAT (value-added tax) is incorporated into the price of almost everything you buy. This number is reduced to 8% for tourist services such as hotel tax when not already included in the price of the room rate, although added services such as airport transfers are charged at the 18% rate. A special class of luxury items, which includes cars, is taxed at a higher rate. And illustrating how the current government frowns on such un-Islamic vices such as consuming alcohol, beer, wine, raki, and spirits, the taxes for these, as high as 40TL for a liter of gin or vodka, are clearly designed to hurt.

Time -- All of Turkey adheres to Eastern European Time (EET), which is Greenwich Mean Time plus 2 hours. To make it easier: When it is noon in New York, it is 7pm in Istanbul. Daylight saving time, when clocks are set 1 hour ahead of standard time, is in effect as Eastern European Summer Time (EEST), from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November.

Tipping -- Gratuities are a way of life in Turkey and are often expected for even the most minor service. Try to keep coins or small notes handy and follow these guidelines: Give the bellhop 50kr to 1TL per bag; leave at least an additional 10% to 15% of the restaurant bill for your waiter; reward your tour guide with 10€ to 20€ for a job well done; and give the attendant in the Turkish bath 5TL before the rubdown. Shows of appreciation are also expected from your chambermaid, your barber or hairdresser, and an usher who has shown you to your seat. It is not customary in Turkey to tip the taxi driver.

Toilets -- There are two types of waste repositories in Turkey -- the traditional "European" toilet and the Turkish toilet: that dreaded porcelain latrine in the floor. Most modern hotels and restaurants in Istanbul have European toilets, while older establishments (including eateries, shops, and so forth), have clean squat latrines. Many Turks and Europeans swear the Turkish toilet is hygienically superior; but having stepped in more unidentifiable liquids than I care to remember, I'm not convinced. In any case, you'll be thankful for those footrests and might even master the art of avoiding backsplash. The floor-level faucet and bucket are also for quick wash-ups (probably the reason the floor is wet); in both cases, toilet paper is for drying. Flushing the toilet paper is sometimes hazardous to the life of the plumbing, but generally when this is the case, there will be a sign above the tank requesting that you dispose of it in the nearby wastebasket. My advice? Lift your skirts high, hang on to the cuffs of your pants, and always carry tissues. As for the European toilets, most have built-in bidets that send clean water up to your privates when activated. Simply locate the faucet -- usually on the wall behind you to the right of the tank -- and let her rip.

Water -- The water is safe to drink, but will slow you down. Drink bottled water and wash fruits and vegetables thoroughly before eating.

When to Go

Depending on whether the goal of your trip is beachfront leisure, explorations into antiquity, high-octane pursuits, or coordinating your vacation with the Tulip Festival or music festival performances in the Aspendos Theatre (in which case, see the Calendar of Events), the seasonal ebbs and flows of tourism follow some general patterns. If you're hoping to hit the village resorts and historical sites of the Mediterranean or Aegean, the absolute best time to go is during the "shoulder season" months of April, May, mid- to late September, and October, when families send their kids back to school, museum sites are less crowded, and the heat is more bearable, particularly when the midday sun reflects and magnifies off of the white stone and marble of archaeological sites. For watersports enthusiasts (rafting, canoeing), the spring melt requires nothing but the most expert or at least courageous. For that matter, Cappadocia is a great destination for rafting in the spring as well as for the autumn colors, while hiking, biking, and camping around the coastal villages are great spring or fall diversions.

In the winter, the coastal towns shut down like a submarine before a descent, although things tend to miraculously reopen (at high-season pricing) for holidays, including Christmas and New Year's. Cappadocia takes on an otherworldly wonderland aspect covered with a dusting of snow, but icy conditions may ruin a horseback-riding trek. And while the dreary days of December and January are inhospitable for a visit to the southern coast, these months, although often rainy, almost never see a line at a museum in Istanbul. Also, the hilltops of the Gallipoli Peninsula can get very wet and windy, so a pilgrimage to the battlegrounds -- if not coinciding with Anzac Day -- may be best planned for the summertime.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Always mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. For example, many hotels offer seniors' discounts. Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry some kind of identification, such as your passport, that shows your date of birth.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Once arrived, the rules get a little fuzzy. Senior discounts (for those 65 and older) are offered at state-run museums but are generally available only to Turkish citizens and E.U. residents. Some of Turkey's domestic airlines offer senior discounts for domestic flights (available to all seniors), so remember to ask when making a booking.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Almost every hotel with an elevator has at least one handicapped-accessible room, although five-star hotels are more apt to cover all bases, such as grip handles and lower sinks. Although ramps have begun to appear at Turkish brick-and-mortar museums, don't expect seamless access. (The crumbling ruins of outdoor archaeological sites are another story altogether; confirm with your travel agent that your needs will be accommodated.) However, Turkish hospitality being what it is, it'll be the odd tour guide or group leader who won't bend over backward to accommodate your individual needs.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

On January 1, 2005, the Turkish Central Bank lopped six zeros off a currency that saw phenomenal inflation in the previous decade or so, making the handling of Turkish money even easier. But those were the old days. With a national economic growth rate rivaling that of China's, Turkey's economy is stronger than it's ever been. Meanwhile, those millionaire bank notes of yesteryear, which were replaced with the New Turkish Lira (yeni turk lirasi or TL), are now officially no longer new. It's just the plain old (new) Turkish Lira (TL).

Bank notes come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200TL, while coins, called the kurus (kr), come in 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 kurus pieces. There is also a 1TL coin.

In spite of the continued stabilization of the Turkish Lira, local prices for larger-ticket items (hotels, tours, carpets) are still generally quoted in foreign currency, usually the euro. But wishing to accommodate, local salesmen will often quote a price in your home currency. Similarly, prices listed in this guide are given in the currency in which they were provided, creating an unavoidable mish-mash of prices in euros, pounds sterling, Turkish Lira and U.S. dollars. Note that at the time of payment however, prices are converted back to TL based on that day's rate of exchange. This may account for minor discrepancies in say, the charge on your credit card bill vs. the amount you thought you were going to pay relevant to the price quoted on a hotel's website.

Now a word on value. Ten years ago, Istanbul was the quintessential budget destination. Then, a filling lunch of home-style Anatolian victuals cost $4, a taxi from the airport to Sultanahmet was $5, and the total admission for a visit to Topkapi Palace was $9. Now, appetizers alone start at 5TL or 6TL, the same taxi ride costs upwards to 25TL and the total admission for Topkapi is 35TL. Far and above mere inflation, this increase represents the forces of supply and demand (where demand for Istanbul has skyrocketed) and the exponential expansion of a thriving middle class. Today, you can still have a meal for under $10, but the number of dining establishments with entrees at 30TL, 40TL, 50TL and up is ever increasing. Put into further perspective, in 2009, while not at the top of the list, Istanbul ranked as the 38th most expensive city in Europe and 74th in the world. (Central London was 37th and 73rd, respectively.)

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and if you insist, traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel; you can easily withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM located in the arrivals terminal.

ATMs

For those of you willing to succumb to the endless, creative bank fees charged by credit card companies, ATMs on the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks are widely available in Istanbul. Among the most reliable of the local banks are Akbank, Türk Is Bankasi, Garanti Bankasi, Yapi Kredi Bankasi, and Ziraat Bankasi. Ask your bank whether you need a new personal identification number (PIN), as most ATMs in Turkey accept numbered passwords only, and some limit their input to four digits. Also, be aware that the ATMs are often fickle or empty, so always carry around alternatives in the form of cash or traveler's checks for emergencies.

Credit Cards & Debit Cards

Private bank accounts are not the only method where banks have been creative with mining additional fees. Purchases on credit card accounts are now also subject to a percentage fee, usually around 5%. In an annoying twist, these very same credit cards offer some of the more competitive exchange rates. It's up to you to do the math, though. Nevertheless, it's highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses. Most establishments accept American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Debit cards are also a commonly acceptable form of payment in most establishments.

Traveler's Checks

In Turkey, as in many other European countries, local merchants are loath to accept traveler's checks, as banks charge large fees to cash them out. Banks tend to charge high commissions or hide the commission in higher rates, as do the exchange offices around town. Hotels are most amenable to exchanging your traveler's checks, but hotel exchange rates are notoriously unfavorable. The post office (PTT) will probably be your best bet for exchanging them for cash.

What Things Cost in Istanbul

Taxi from airport to Sultanahmet 22TL

Havas bus from airport to Taksim 10TL

Double at Çiragan Palace with sea view 670€-1,350€

Double at the Apricot Hotel 79€-99€

Dinner for one at the Four Seasons 75TL

Dinner for one at a köfte joint around town 15TL

Bosphorus cruise (round-trip) 20TL

Commuter ferry up the Bosphorus 1.50TL

Ticket on bus, tram, or metro 1.50TL

Admission to Topkapi Palace (all exhibits) 35TL

Daytime taxi from Sultanahmet to Taksim (no traffic) 10TL

Glass of tea at Mesale tea gardens 2TL

Glass of tea in a carpet shop Free

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Tours & Language Classes

Workshops In Ottoman Arts -- No visit to the epicenter of Ottoman arts would be complete without trying your hand at the classic art of ebru, or paper marbling, calligraphy, or on a soulful saz. Seeking to promote Turkey's rich and vibrant cultural goods, Les Arts Turcs, Incili Çavus Sok. 37, 3rd floor, Sultanahmet/Istanbul (tel. 0212/520-7743; http://lesartsturcs.com), organizes private or group lessons in all three and then some. Interested in Byzantine mosaic art? Check. Want to learn how to apply a henna tattoo? Check. Willing to accept a dare to show off your belly dancing prowess? You can do it all here. Les Arts Turcs also organizes private language lessons. Some of their group workshops are organized in conjunction with the Caferaga Medresesi, Caferiye Sokak Sogukkuyu Çikmazi 1, Sultanahmet/Istanbul (tel. 0212/528-0089; www.caferagamedresesi.com), a project of the Turkish Cultural Foundation Service (www.tkhv.org). The restored medrese now serves as a handicrafts center, offering multiday workshops in ebru, calligraphy, illumination, miniature painting, jewelry, and decorative ornamentation of wood, fabric, or glass, among others.

Language Classes -- While an increasing number of resources offer language instruction in Turkish (and other languages) free on the Internet, there's no better way to learn a language than through immersion. Tömer is the language school arm of Ankara University (www.tomer.ankara.edu.tr), with locations in Istanbul, Ankara, Bursa, Izmir, Antalya, Denizli, Samsun, and Trabzon. At Dilmer, at the language center's Istanbul Taksim location (www1.dilmer.com), you can choose among the morning, afternoon, evening, or weekend modules, lasting either 4, 8, or 12 weeks.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Active Vacations -- Gorp Travel (tel. 877/440-4677; www.gorp.com) is a near encyclopedic compendium of adventure holidays on one website, including the ones mentioned here. The Imaginative Traveller (tel. 800/225-2380; www.imaginative-traveller.com), the U.K.'s leading adventure tour company, offers culturally rich, physically active vacations, many with families in mind. Not for the faint of thigh, Great Explorations (tel. 800-242-1825; www.great-explorations.com), based in Canada, runs fairly hard-core combo cycling and Blue Cruise tours along the coast from Bodrum, through Datça, to Dalyan, and along the coast to Kas, Fethiye, and Olympos on its way to Antalya. Check their website for details and departure dates.

In 1994, archaeologist and professor Peter Sommer (Peter Sommer Travels; tel. 1600/888-220 in the U.K.; www.petersommer.com) set out from Troy on foot to walk the 2,000-mile path taken by Alexander the Great. His 19-day tour, aptly named "In the Footsteps of Alexander the Great," retraces this trajectory and includes a short gulet cruise through some of the more scenic of the country's turquoise waters. His gulet tour of the Carian coastline makes the most of the Blue Cruise and of many of the region's off-the-beaten-track highlights.

In Turkey, Argeus Tourism & Travel, based in Ürgüp, Istiklal Cad. 13 (tel. 0384/341-4688; fax 0384/341-4888; www.argeus.com.tr), is the most qualified local company for organizing tailor-made hiking, biking and other active tours, with guides that are both knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Middle Earth Travel, Gaferli Mahallesi, Cevizler Sokak, Göreme (tel. 0384/271-2559; www.middleearthtravel.com), targets the hardiest of independent adventure travelers, with 6-day to 2-week treks into the Kaçkar Mountains, an 8-day climb up Mount Ararat, 2-day volcano climbs, and organized expeditions along the Lycian Way and St. Paul's Trail. If river sports are more your speed, Medraft (www.medraft.com) combines off-the-beaten-track travel with rafting trips in the canyons around Antalya and overnights at their rustic "Mountain Lodge." Medraft also runs a 9-day rafting trip into the Kaçkar region along the Black Sea coast. They also send their expert sportsmen to lead cycling adventures and jeep safaris to these regions.

In the past few years, Turkey has caught golfing fever, and it seems that everybody with a hankering and disposable greens fees wants to get in on the act. A number of developers have recognized the investment potential; the number of courses continues to exponentially increase. Most of these courses are located in the province of Antalya, taking advantage of the mild Mediterranean winter months. For more information, log on to www.bookyourgolf.net.

Thermals & Spas -- Perched atop geologically dynamic soil, Turkey has suffered the fury of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions for millennia. But that same dynamism has also blessed the country with a phenomenal reserve of geothermal resources. Combine these with the centuries-old hamam tradition, and place them both squarely in the present where health and wellness have become the new buzzwords, and you've got a recipe for a budding spa industry. Even if Istanbul is your only destination in Turkey, the embarras de richesses of deluxe hotel spas will keep your skin smooth, your muscles supple, and your head clear.

In the hot-springs-rich peninsula of Çesme, a luxury thermal spa is now the rule rather than the exception. Five-star properties with thermal-rich waters include the Botanica Thermal Spa at the Sheraton Çesme, the Dulcis Thermal Spa at the Radisson Blu, the Nars Ilica, and 7800 Çesme. Two other traditional centers for thermal treatments are Bursa and Pamukkale. Where thermal bubbly does not spring up, the deluxe hotels along the Aegean and Turquoise coastline provide a worthy consolation.

Boat Trips (aka The Blue Voyage)

Any of the travel agents in this guide (and those not included) can help you arrange a bareboat yacht or gulet, a captained vessel or a cabin charter. Highly recommended are Credo Tours (tel. 0212/254-8175 in Istanbul; fax 0212/237-9670; www.credo.com.tr) and Argeus (tel. 0384/341-4688 in Cappadocia; www.argeus.com.tr), both of whom can provide the optimum amount of service to best tailor your trip to your needs.

Dozens and dozens of yachting specialists and brokers make bareboat and gulet charters their business. Three of the more established marine specialists are Aegean Yachting (tel. 0252/316-1517; fax 0252/316-5749, www.aegeanyacht.com), Gino Group (tel. 0252/412-0676; fax 0252/412-2066; www.ginogroup.com), and Bodtur (tel. 0232/421-8002; www.bodtur.com), but there are plenty other heavy hitters ready to compete for your business.

If you just want a taste of the Blue Cruise and you're on a limited budget, the cabin charter is the way to go. Most bareboat brokers also deal in gulet cabin charters, and any travel agent worth his salt will bend over backward to accommodate your cabin charter request.

V-GO Tourism Travel Agency, based in Fethiye, Fevzi Çakmak Caddesi (btw. the marina and the Yacht Club; tel. 0252/612-2113; www.boatcruiseturkey.com), arranges 3-, 4-, and 7-day cruises departing from Fethiye or Olympos. Information (including rates) and pictures of their substantial fleet of broad-beamed gulets, ranging in age and level of luxury, can be viewed on their website.

You can go the extra nautical mile on a Blue Voyage by signing up with a reputable sailing school. Gökova Yachting, based in Netsel Marina in Marmaris (tel./fax 0252/413-1089; www.gokovasailing.com), is the only licensed international sailing school where students can advance through the five levels of sailing proficiency from beginner to racer. Yacht master Cumhur (Jim) Gökova presides over one of the newest fleets in the Mediterranean and also handles bookings directly. Tuition is 600€ per person per week and covers one proficiency level of instruction.

All About the Blue Voyage -- The Mavi Yolculuk, or "Blue Voyage," emerged in the late 1920s, when Cevat Sakir Kabaagaçli, a dissident political writer whose "punishment" was exile in Bodrum, began cruising visiting friends around the idyllic Gulf of Gökova. Today tooling along the Turkish Mediterranean coastline is one of the highlights of any trip to Turkey, and in some cases, the only way to visit the small fishing villages and islands of the southwestern coast. But to do it right, you should plan in advance and know your options.

The traditional Turkish sea excursion is either by the traditional wooden broad-beamed gulet or sleek yacht cruiser. Hiring a private yacht without a crew (known in the lingo as bareboat charter) is a popular choice for those with sailing proficiency and a taste for independence and adventure. Captained yachts are also available as an option. But so are captained and crewed gulets, which typically accommodate 8 to 12 people (or more) and come equipped with many modern conveniences.

In addition to chartering the entire gulet, it is also possible to charter a cabin on an individual basis. This last option, however, is riddled with pitfalls, not the least of which can be safety concerns. Generally, the gulets used for individual cabin charters didn't make the first cut for that season, thanks to torn cushions, faded decks, clogged toilets, smelly cabins, and a boat that should have been sent out to pasture long ago. Many tour operators and yacht agents have responded by acquiring and chartering out their own gulets, so check at the time of booking to make sure you'll be on one of these more recent acquisitions. If your booking agent can't or won't give you specific information about the boat you'll be on, be prepared for the worst, and negotiate a discount in advance if the gulet you were promised gets substituted at the last minute.

The most popular gulet cruises depart from Marmaris and ply the waters to Fethiye and back, stopping at (conditions permitting) Cleopatra's Baths, Dalyan, Kaunos, Istuzu Beach, and Ölüdeniz. See if you can get your agent to book you an excursion out of Marmaris in the opposite direction (to Datça), or start in Finike and loiter around Kekova Bay.

Weeklong gulet cruises commonly depart on Sunday mornings (boarding Sat nights) and last 1 week, although it's also possible to arrange minicruises departing from anywhere your heart desires. A typical weeklong Blue Voyage will run you anywhere from 350€ and up per person, with as much as 70% added on for a single supplement. Meals are usually included, but all drinks, even water, are extra (but available and reasonably priced onboard). Boats may come equipped with air-conditioning, but even on a private and comparatively luxurious boat, the generator, and thus the A/C, gets shut down at night.

Although most Turkish boat operators offer their services directly to the public, every travel agent (and his brother) has a friend in the boat business. The problem is wading through all of the brokerage options, especially when the ship's captain lists his boat with multiple agencies. The best way to ensure quality in booking your gulet or yacht cruise is to use one of the reputable local tour brokers that I recommend under "Boat Trips," above. Through long-standing relationships and extensive scrutiny of the boats, these brokers/tour operators can ensure a level of quality, as well as act as your agent in the event of unexpected developments. You will also have the added insurance of dealing with an outfitter working to protect you and your investment. Be an informed buyer and get a detailed description of the boat, keeping in mind that vessels need a complete renovation at least every 5 years. Also, decide whether a hose attachment to the sink faucet is sufficient as a shower or whether you require an enclosed stall. Finally, flush toilets (as opposed to the hand-pump type) are considered a luxury.

But look, the cabin charter is not all bad news. There's really no way to ruin a week of tooling around turquoise waters with a culturally and linguistically diverse passenger list. Hold your nose and just dive in.

Food & Wine Trips

Only a true foodie can appreciate the rewards of planning a vacation with a special emphasis on the eating habits of a country. In Turkey, where much of the language and expressions refer back to the kitchen, there's no better way to get to the heart of this culture.

The Istanbul Culinary Institute, Mesrutiyet Cad. 59, Tepebasi (tel. 0212/251-2214; www.istanbulculinary.com), offers professional and amateur programs, as well as short, 1-day crash courses in techniques (cutting, stocks, or sauces), Ottoman cuisine (meat dishes with fruit, for example), or in Turkish basics (rice, böreks, and mantis). There are also monthly gastronomic walking tours, where groups of at least four people get a crash course in street food. One such tour stumbles over to the Kumkapi wholesale fish market at 4am! Tours cost about 100TL per person; custom tours are available for 200TL per person. Turkish Flavours, Vali Konak Cad. Ugur Apt. 14/3, Nisantasi (tel. 0532/218-0653; www.turkishflavours.com), takes this culinary concept into private homes in Istanbul, and on the road through private food-focused Istanbul day excursions and tailor-made itineraries into the heart of Anatolia. All tours get to the heart of the Turkish culture through market excursions, house cooking, and even wine tastings.

Volunteer & Working Trips

It's the very special traveler who is ready, willing, and able to trade time, effort, and public service AND pay for it in exchange for the satisfaction derived from connecting with another human being and culture. Bugday (tel. 0212/252-5255; www.bugday.org, in English and Turkish) is an organization dedicated to ecologically sustainable living. As part of their efforts, they have built up a network of farm stays in Turkey that allows volunteers to live and work with a rural farming family. (Visitors can also pay a small fee to gain the experience but avoid the free labor.)

CulturaLinks USA (tel. 425/608-9186; www.culturalinksusa.com) is a cross-cultural exchange resource connecting volunteers with seasonal internships and village home-stay opportunities. United Planet (tel. 800/292-2316; www.unitedplanet.org) organizes short-term (4-12 weeks) volunteer placement working in community service centers in Istanbul.

Health & Safety

There are no particular health concerns associated with travel to Turkey. For information and updates on any epi- or pandemics (such as avian influenza or the H1N1 swine flu), visit the websites of the World Health Organization (www.who.int), the European Centre for Disease Prevention and Control (http://ecdc.europa.eu), or the United States Centers for Disease Control (www.cdc.gov).

General Availability of Health Care -- Any veteran traveler never leaves home without a basic health kit tailored to his or her particular needs. Generally, these should include anti-diarrheal medicine such as Imodium, aspirin, ibuprofen sunscreen, insect repellant, and sanitary products. While it is imperative to pack prescriptions that you need (insulin, cholesterol-lowering meds, et al), many are widely available in pharmacies (called eczane) in Turkey, sold by the brand name at prices often lower than at home. If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away form Home -- Any local consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you do get sick, you may want to ask the concierge at your hotel to recommend a local doctor, even his or her own. This will probably yield a better recommendation than any information number would. In fact, ask anybody on the street and he/she will likely accompany you to the doctor. Also, local doctors advertise their services through discreet signs near their offices, and most speak English.

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- Food poisoning and diarrhea are probably the most prevalent illnesses associated with travel to Turkey. Although water from the tap is chlorinated and generally safe to drink, even the locals drink bottled water. Avoid nonpasteurized dairy products and shellfish during the hot summer months, and maintain a healthy suspicion of street vendors. In the event that you become ill, drink plenty of (bottled) water and remember that diarrhea usually dissipates on its own. Pepto Bismol (bismuth subsalicylate) can often prevent symptoms, but if the problem becomes truly inconvenient, pharmacists are generally sympathetic and bilingual, and will be able to provide an effective remedy. (Ercefuryl works wonders.)

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Rabies is endemic in parts of Turkey, and joggers have been known to be bitten by infected strays. But this is extremely rare. Best to stay away from animals altogether -- advice that, given the sweet temperaments of the street dogs and cats, I myself am incapable of following. If you're concerned, consult your doctor for pre-exposure immunization.

Tropical Illnesses -- Although the persistence and tenaciousness of Turkish mosquitoes might cause you to suffer, it is unlikely that malaria will. Keep in mind that you're more likely to catch deadly mosquito-borne diseases in your own backyard than abroad. If you are experiencing symptoms, seek prompt medical attention while traveling as well as for up to 3 years after your return. Don't forget to pack a proven insect repellent (especially for those nights lounging outdoors in a tea garden or spent waterside along the coast).

Safety

Newbie Western travelers to Turkey are often plagued by worries over safety: It is a Muslim country, after all, and there is a war going on nearby, right? Well, no actually. While Turkey's population is mostly Muslim, I'm sure I don't need to remind you that all Muslims aren't terrorists, do I? Tsk tsk, if I do. Indeed, I guarantee that one of the first impressions that will overwhelm you upon arriving in Turkey is its complete and utter "normalcy."

Second, there's a war going on, right? Sure, but it's 1,600km (994 miles) away as the crow flies. And as we've all so regrettably learned, distance doesn't contain conflict, and the violence in Iraq menaces us all just as much in London, Toronto, and New York as it does in Istanbul.

Okay, but what about the PKK? Sigh. Radicals committed to violence (in this case, right-wing Kurdish nationalists) are attacking Turkish soldiers in the southeast of the country. Infrequently, the violence erupts beyond these borders. In my opinion, such an attack targeting foreign tourists would be a strategic mistake; still, it might be a good idea to check in with your appropriate travel advisories. In the U.S., log onto http://travel.state.gov/travel; in the U.K.: www.fco.gov.uk; in Canada: www.voyage.gc.ca; in Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au; in New Zealand: www.safetravel.govt.nz.

Calendar of Events

Listed here is a selection of events wacky, weird, or wonderful enough (or all three) to go out of your way for. It would be impossible to list all of the local or regional festivals -- besides, this guide doesn't attempt to list all of Turkey's tourist destinations. But once arrived, keep your ear to the ground for colorful happenings such as the traditional mesir festival in Manisa, the International Pamukkale Song Competition, the Hittite Festival in Çorum, the Rose Festival in Isparta, the Golden Pistachio Festival in Gaziantep, and the Javelin games in Konya. For more information on these localized festivities, contact the tourism office in the corresponding region.

Islam follows the lunar calendar, which is shorter than the Gregorian calendar by 11 days. The result is that Muslim religious holidays fall on different dates each year. The dates for religious holidays listed here are accurate for 2010 and 2011.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Camel Wrestling Festival, Selçuk. Did you know that as the temperature drops, a camel's aggression level rises? This event, scheduled erratically in January or February, provides a natural, if not inhumane, tension release as much for the poor beasts as for the testosterone-heavy locals nervously betting against the odds. The camels' mouths are bound to prevent biting, and 14 rope bearers stand by in case the scene starts to get out of hand. The last one to remain standing or in the ring wins. Sometime in January or February; dates vary.

March

Ankara International Film Days, Ankara. Having completed 20 years of screenings, the Ankara Film Festival showcases features, shorts and documentary films from around the world (tel. 0312/468-7745; www.filmfestankara.org.tr). Two weeks in mid-March.

Festival of Victory, Çanakkale. This festival celebrates the Turks' successful defense of the Dardanelles against invading British warships during World War I. Performances by the traditional Ottoman army mehter band, with its imposing cacophony of cymbals, horns, and percussion, can only suggest the terror instilled by the approaching Ottoman army. March 18.

April

International Istanbul Film Festival, Istanbul. This festival lasts 2 weeks, from the last Saturday of March to mid-April, offering movie buffs the rare opportunity to view Turkish movies with English subtitles. For schedules and tickets log on to www.iksv.org (tel. 0212/334-0700). Early April.

Eastern Orthodox Easter Sunday. If Istanbul was the birthplace of Eastern Orthodox Christianity (simply known as Christianity, in the day), then the Greek Patriarchate of Istanbul represents the bull's-eye for observance of the holiest day in Christendom, Eastern style. Mass is celebrated annually, led by Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew I, with prayers and candlelight. April 4, 2010, April 24, 2011. (tel. 0212/531-9670; www.ecupatriarchate.org).

Presidential Cycling Tour, Istanbul. Kusadasi, Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye, Finike, Antalya, Alanya. Turkey's Presidential Cycling Tour is an 8-day, 1,212km (753 miles) marathon race broken into eight stages. The race kicks off in Istanbul's Sultanahmet Square, then hopscotches by air to Izmir, where the race continues down the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts all the way down to Alanya. (tel. 0312/310-9613; www.presidentialtourofturkey.com). Second week in April.

Tulip Festival, Istanbul. The tulip, widely accepted as having been imported from Holland and cultivated by an appreciative Turkish 17th-century society, is celebrated annually in Istanbul.

National Sovereignty and Children's Day, Istanbul and Ankara. This day celebrates the anniversary of the first Grand National Assembly, which met in Ankara in 1920 and was later decreed by Atatürk as Children's Day. The day is marked by parades and processions by schoolchildren. Banks and public offices are closed. April 23.

Anzac Day, Çanakkale. A trip to the Gallipoli Peninsula has become a sort of pilgrimage for Australians and New Zealanders indoctrinated into the folklore of the failed Allied invasion of the Dardanelle Straits. Memorial ceremonies begin at dawn and are staggered throughout the morning. Keep in mind that Çanakkale is bursting at the seams with Down-Unders who, although solemn and respectful by day, let loose in the bars at night. April 24 and 25.

International Music Festival, Ankara. Home of the country's first conservatory, symphonic orchestra, opera, ballet, and theater, Ankara shows the world its importance as a major cultural center each year during this international event. There are orchestral performances, chamber music, and Turkish contemporary artists playing traditional and folk music from all over the world. For schedules and tickets, contact the Sevda-Cenap & Music Foundation, Tunali Hilmi Sok. 114/26 (tel. 0312/427-0855; www.andmuzikvakfi.com or www.ankarafestival.com). Late April to mid-May.

May

Ephesus Festival of Culture and Art, Selçuk and Ephesus. The best part about this local festival is the use of the Great Theatre at Ephesus as a venue for some of the concerts and theatrical presentations. First week of May.

Youth & Sports Day. Atatürk arrived in Samsun on this day in 1919, which signifies the beginning of the Independence War. Students nationwide participate in athletic games, gymnastic events, and parades. May 19.

Fatih Festivities, Istanbul. This festival commemorates the conquest of Byzantium in 1453 by Sultan Fatih Mehmet with local celebrations. May 29.

June

Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival. Live performances in the spectacular (now open-air) Theatre of Aspendos, the best-preserved theater of antiquity. For information, call the Antalya State Opera and Ballet (tel. 0242/244-4717; www.antdob.gov.tr). June through July.

International Istanbul Music Festival. This world-class festival features big names in classical, opera, and ballet. Past artists have included La Scala Philharmonic, the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, the Tokyo String Quartet, Itzhak Perlman, Idil Biret, and Burhan Öçal. For schedules and tickets, contact the Istanbul Foundation for Culture & the Arts (tel. 0212/334-0700; www.iksv.org). Mid-June to mid-July.

International Izmir Festival. Not to be outdone by either Istanbul's numerous international festivals or the popular draw of Antalya's Aspendos Theatre venue, Izmir has proudly sponsored its own artistic extravaganza for 24 years (25, in 2011). A sampling of past feature productions include Sophocles's Electra, performed at the Celsus Library at Ephesus; the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra performance at Ephesus's Great Theatre; and the Izmir State Classical Turkish Music Chorus singing at the Alaçati open-air theater in Çesme. Tickets can be purchased at a number of box offices in Izmir, Bodrum, and Çesme; for information go to www.iksev.org. Mid-June to mid-July.

Antalya Sand Sculpture Exhibition. Several dozen sand-sculpture artists convene from more than 14 countries to create temporary fantasies of oriental lore in sand. The exhibition takes place at a beach to be determined annually. For information, log on to www.larasandland.com. Early summer through September.

Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Tournaments, Edirne (Sarayiçi) and in villages around the country. This revered national sport involves the fittest of Turkish youth and astonishing amounts of olive oil to prevent the opponent from getting a good grip. The event is usually accompanied by a colorful market and fair (www.kirkpinar.com). Late June or early July.

International Mountain Biking Stage Race and Festival, Cappadocia. The municipalities of Göreme and Ürgüp celebrate the marriage of bicycles and monastic pathways by inviting bikers from around the world to this annual festival. The setting offers unbeatable peaks and valleys formed of ancient volcanic tufa, and various levels of difficulty. End of June.

July

International Jazz Festival, Istanbul. Performances are held at various locations around the city. For schedules, dates, and tickets, contact the Istanbul Foundation for Culture & the Arts (tel. 0212/334-0700; www.iksv.org).

Cabotage Day. This maritime festival is celebrated in Turkey by commemorating the establishment of Turkey's sea borders. Major ports with marinas usually celebrate with yacht races and swimming competitions. For more information, contact the Tourist Information Office of the town you will be visiting. July 1.

Grape Harvest Festival, Bozcaada. With ancient roots in grape growing and wine making, the idyllic island of Bozcaada -- Tenedos in mythology -- celebrates its vinicultural good fortune with an annual grape festival. The island swells from 2,500 to 15,000 for 2 days of merry-making. July 26 and 27.

August

Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Ephesus. A special Mass conducted by the archbishop of Izmir celebrates the Assumption at the house of Mary. August 15.

Zafer Bayrami (Victory Day). This national holiday commemorates the decisive victory over the invading Greek armies during the War of Independence in 1922. Parades run through the main streets, and if you go soon, you may still brush elbows with some surviving vets. August 30.

International Ballet Festival, Bodrum. "Easy on the eyes" is an understatement when referring to the open-air dance performances staged under the warm glow of the night-lit castle of St. Peter. The annual festival, organized by the Turkish State Opera and Ballet (www.dobgm.gov.tr) hosts troupes from around the globe. Tickets can be purchased at the Bodrum Castle and at stands along the wharf up to 5 days in advance (box office: tel. 0252/313-4266). Last 2 weeks in August.

September

Phaselis Festival, Phaselis. The pine-shaded harbors of ancient Phaselis set the stage for concerts of Turkish jazz, folk, and classical artists in the ancient theater. (tel. 0242/821-5000; www.phaselisfestival.com). Early September.

Seker Bayrami (or Ramadan Barami). This is the 3-day celebration punctuating the end of Ramadan. Presents and sweets are given to the children (seker means sugar in Turkish), and the Turkish-delight industry makes a killing. September 9 to September 11, 2010; August 30 to September 1, 2011.

International Istanbul Biennial. The Istanbul Foundation for Culture & Arts (www.iksv.org) puts on this major visual arts event organized around a current political or philosophical theme. Artists are selected from over 45 countries, whose innovative exhibitions are displayed around town, in clever venues such as 500-year-old warehouses, deconsecrated churches and synagogues, and even commuter ferries. Mid-September to early November 2011.

October

Akbank Jazz Festival. This 2-week-long festival brings the blues simultaneously to Istanbul, Ankara, and Izmir. Now in its 17th season, the festival hosts world-renowned performers in the cities' most atmospheric venues (tel. 0212/252-3500; www.akbanksanat.com). Last 2 weeks in October.

Golden Orange Film Festival. For 44 years, Antalya has been the host of the Altin Portakal (Golden Orange) Film Festival, Turkey's version of the Oscars. But with the 2005 inauguration of the Eurasia Film Festival, the combined event has made international waves and attracted the likes of Francis Ford Coppola, Sophie Marceau, and Miranda Richardson (tel. 0212/244-5251; www.altinportakal.org.tr). Mid-October to mid-November.

Cumhuriyet Bayrami (Republic Day). This event celebrates the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. Parades, public speeches, and fireworks displays are just a few of the organized events, but individual Turkish families do their own celebrating as well. October 29.

International Wine Festival. Cappadocia. Celebrating the fertile soil of Cappadocia and the region's reputation as one of Turkey's premiere wine-growing regions, a handful of wineries in the region organize the International Wine Festival in the early autumn. A Grape Harvest Festival precedes the event by 2 or 3 weeks. End of October.

November

Anniversary of Atatürk's Death. Turkey comes to a grinding halt at exactly 9:05am, when the population pays its respects to the father and founder of the Republic. Rather than a moment of silence, the streets and waterways echo with the blare of car horns and foghorns. Atatürk-related activities are planned for the day, such as conferences, speeches, and exhibitions, in addition to a memorial concert at the Atatürk Cultural Center. November 10.

Efes Pilsen Blues Festival. In its 20th year as of 2010, this touring blues extravaganza transports Turks to America's deep South -- at least in spirit -- by way of performers who, in recent years, have included John Lee Hooker, Bernard Allison, John Primer, Adophus Bell, Luther Johnson, and Jerry Ricks. Shows are scheduled for Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Bursa, Çanakkale, Kayseri, Denizli, and Konya, in addition to a number of other Turkish cities not covered as destinations in this guide. (tel. 0216/444-3337; www.efesblues.com). First week of November through second week December.

Kurban Bayrami. In the Koranic version of an old favorite, it was Abraham's son Ismael, not Isaac, who was spared the knife. Kurban Bayrami celebrates Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son, with 4 days of feasting and a death sentence to an alarming number of sheep, the likes of which one only sees around Thanksgiving. In fact, the 4-day festival of sacrifice is the culmination of the Hajj (holy pilgrimage), and much of the meat is given to the poor. November 16 to November 19, 2010; November 6 to November 9, 2011.

Contemporary Istanbul Art Festival. The Financial Times has predicted Istanbul as the next major emerging market in art, providing momentum to Istanbul as a new art destination. The festival, now in its fifth year (in 2010), hosts individual artists, international and Turkey-based galleries, and collectors for 4 days in late November or early December (tel. 0212/244-7171; www.contemporaryistanbul.com).

December

Festival of St. Nicholas, Demre. Santa Claus actually lived on the Mediterranean, as bishop of Myra in the 4th century. A festival and symposium are held at the Byzantine church that honors old St. Nick. Early December.

Mevlana Festival, Konya. Whirling Dervishes believe that spiritual union with God is achieved through the sema, a trance-inducing dancing rite. The mystical ballet is shared with the public during this December festival, providing a window into one of Turkey's most precious cultural treasures. Book your tickets early, either through a travel agent or by contacting the Mevlana Kültür Merkezi (tel. 0332/352-8111; www.mkm.gov.tr). The week leading up to December 17.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call Istanbul from abroad:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code: 90.

3. Dial the city code 212 for the European side and 216 for the Asian side, and then the number. If the number you are trying to dial is a mobile number (beginning instead with 555, 542, or 532 and their derivatives), then use this number instead of the city code.

To make international calls from Istanbul: First dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

To make local calls while in town: In order to call the Asian side from the European side, you must dial 0216 and then the number. For calls to the same side, dial the city code, but not the 0. To call outside of Istanbul but within Turkey, you must dial the 0 followed by the area code and seven-digit number.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 115 (in Turkish) if you're looking for a number inside Istanbul. Unfortunately, there is no international directory.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 115 if you're trying to make an international call and tel. 131 (in Turkish) if you want to call a number in Turkey.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 0800 within Turkey are toll free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Turkey is not toll free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

National numbers: More and more prevalent is the local 444 number (no area code). These numbers connect you to service call centers for national businesses for the cost of a local call.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers' customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across developed areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in Western Europe and up to $5 in places such as Russia and Indonesia.

Alternatively (and particularly for those with infuriating "locked" GSM phones), you can pick up a new, low-end handset at the airport in Istanbul and load in a SIM card on one of the local networks. Both Vodafone and Avea have kiosks in the international arrivals terminal in Istanbul. A new basic Nokia phone costs 70TL and the SIM card (which gives you your phone number and network connection) costs 18TL. The SIM card comes with 150 preloaded minutes, but that's not really much, so you may want to buy some additional minutes if you plan on calling or texting overseas.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. And it's the rare hotel, restaurant, resort, cafe, and even retailer in Turkey that doesn't offer Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), creating "hot spots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access just about everywhere. Larger (more expensive) hotels and airports usually charge a fee for usage (varying from as little as 9TL at the airport to 30TL per day at someplace like the Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, or ISDN hookups for high-speed Internet access.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- Computers made available for the use of hotel guests are still available in many establishments, while the better hotels, such as the Sofa Hotel and the W, rent laptops to guests for a fee.

Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

Voice Over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP), such as Skype (www.skype.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe. You'll want to have a headset with speaker capability if you're "skyping" in a public place. Check the sites for details on restrictions.

Escorted & Package Tours

Turkey is, essentially, one big open-air museum, and it would be difficult not to have a learning experience while traveling in such a historically rich country. Where better to begin than with Smithsonian Journeys (tel. 877/338-8687; www.smithsonianjourneys.org), billed as "the best in educational travel"? Tours include the Journey of Aeneas and The Black Sea: Crossroads of Culture, and all are led by leading scholars in Ancient Greece, and Classical and Byzantine Art.

For their Turkey trips, Intrepid Travel (tel. 800/970-7299 in the U.S.; tel. 866/360-1151 in Canada; tel. 0203-147-7777 in the U.K.; tel. 1300-364-512 in Australia; www.intrepidtravel.com) manages to effectively combine authentic experiences with an optimal cultural overview.

If you're planning to drag along unwilling offspring, try booking through Thomson Family Adventures (tel. 800/262-6255 or 617/864-4803; fax 617/497-3911; www.familyadventures.com) for kid-friendly trips without adult compromise. Thomson takes an added interest in your children -- establishing departure dates according to the school calendar -- and provides fun educational activities prior to departure.

Using a local travel agent can make anybody a bit skittish, but expert in the region is the English-proficient Credo Tours (tel. 0212/254-8175 in Istanbul; fax 0212/237-9670; www.credo.com.tr), specializing in creating theme tours on special request. A somewhat recent program organized visits to select fine-arts galleries and exhibitions during the 2007 Biennale.

Excursions Into Eastern Turkey -- For the first time in more than 20 years, eastern Turkey is enjoying an extended period of calm, and slowly but surely, destinations that previously came with State Department warnings are appearing in tour brochures. Make no mistake, however -- as far as creature comforts go, it's still the Wild West out east. Alas, publisher's directives about page limits constrain me from elaborating on such wondrous destinations as Zeugma, Antioch, Mount Nemrut, and Lake Van. Instead, I can highly recommend Credo Tours (tel. 0212/254-8175; fax 0212/237-9670; www.credo.com.tr) for your foray into Turkey's eastern and southeastern provinces.

Another reputable outfitter experienced in the east is Fez Travel (tel. 0212/516-9024; fax 0212/638-8764; www.feztravel.com), run by a group of Australians who made a name for themselves with a hop-on-hop-off circuit of Turkey's hot spots. These trips, top-heavy with Australian backpackers, are geared more toward the budget end of travel. Meanwhile, many tour operators based in Göreme, in Cappadocia, run overnight bus tours to Mount Nemrut, mostly utilized by backpackers.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

One thing that continually amazes me about Turkey is its ability to leapfrog over many of the challenges that, traditionally, the "West" has had to grapple with. Turkey seems to be a cauldron of budding (and more recently, established) entrepreneurship, and all things organic, natural, vegetarian, healthy, and environmentally sound are being incorporated into the way hotels and restaurants do business. Indeed, Istanbul's iconic building, the Atatürk Cultural Center, is as I type undergoing a massive modernization project that will make it a model for environmentally friendly restoration projects.

Elsewhere in Istanbul and around the countryside -- even in the heartland where "natural" is assumed -- organic is the new buzzword, and establishments that are thinking about these issues are certainly letting the public know. One standout is the Five Boutique Hotel, the first entirely organic hotel in Turkey.

Istanbul boasts two organic outdoor markets, the Ekolojik Halk Pazari in Sisli, which was started in 2008 by the environmental group Bugday (www.bugday.org) and City Farm in the Istinye Park shopping center (two noticeably higher-income areas). The new Macrocenter grocery store brings all things wholesome under one roof, with, at last count, nine locations in Istanbul alone. In addition, Istanbul now has dozens of specialized grocers, shops selling all-natural products, and eateries serving only "whole" foods. For chemical-free produce at open markets, look for fruits and vegetables designated as bahçemden ("from my garden").

Many of Turkey's vehicles still run on diesel fuel, although kürsünsüz (unleaded) is also pervasive. The newer green city buses are also considered ekolojik, while the new hybrid Metrobuses (not detailed in Getting Around because they primarily serve the outer suburbs) reduce both energy consumption and travel time in Istanbul.

Throughout this guide, I've tried to highlight establishments with practices that are good for the planet.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Turkey listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

• In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

• In Australia, the national body that sets guidelines and standards for ecotourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Green Directory (www.thegreendirectory.com.au), Green Pages (www.thegreenpages.com.au), and Eco Directory (www.ecodirectory.com.au) all offer sustainable travel tips and directories of green businesses.

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org) and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org each provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• "Green" Hotels Association (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.

• For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Tips for Families

Turks love children and fawn all over them as a matter of course. Taken to the not-so-extreme, a total stranger may stroke your child's hair to show his or her benign affection. Back home, this would set off alarm bells; in Turkey, this is actually just a cultural norm. As for sightseeing, Istanbul is a veritable treasure chest of the magical and exotic, making exploration with the brood a delight for all involved. Kids seem to love scrambling around toppled columns and ancient ruins, exploring underground cisterns (especially the ones with water in them), and poking around the very colorful and stimulating Grand Bazaar.

If you're planning on renting a car or getting around with a tour company's car, keep in mind that car seats are considered a luxury item in Turkey, so ask/reserve ahead of time to be sure you can get one. Almost all hotels offer cots on request to accommodate families together in a room, and many restaurants have high chairs (when they don't they'll find some way to improvise). Other baby and toddler items are widely available (diapers, UHT milk), but if you're set on using a particular brand, better bring it along. Bottled baby food can be difficult to find, but restaurants will probably be more than willing to puree whatever you want.

Meanwhile, almost all tourist services (hotels, ferryboats) offer some kind of discount for children, usually 50% off the full price for children 6 to 12, while kids under 6 generally get loads of freebies. Unfortunately, this discount does not apply to admission tickets to museums and sites for preteens. You'll also save a load of dough thanks to the Turkish tradition of providing breakfast with the room.

Getting Around

By Plane

Domestic airline travel has come a long way since Turkish Airlines (tel. 800/874-8875 in the U.S., 207/766-9300 in London, 0212/663-6300 in Istanbul; www.turkishairlines.com) held a corner on the market. With the arrival of a number of new airlines serving popular routes, along with the opening of Istanbul's Sabiha Gökçen Airport, domestic airline service is plentiful. And with fares as low as 49€, if you book early, the cost actually gives (albeit comfy) long-distance bus travel a run for its money. To keep up with the competition, Turkish Airlines instituted its budget airline subsidiary, AnadoluJet (tel. 444-AJET [2538]; www.anadolujet.com), primarily operating flights out of Ankara to countless cities in Turkey. Onur Air (tel. 0212/663-9176 in Istanbul; www.onurair.com.tr) flies from Istanbul to Antalya, Bodrum, Dalaman, and Izmir, while Pegasus Airlines (tel. 0845/084-8980; www.flypgs.com) serves Antalya, Ankara, Bodrum, Dalaman, Izmir, Kayseri, and Konya, among others, from Istanbul's Sabiha Gökçen Airport, and Izmir from Istanbul's Atatürk Airport. Pegasus also flies to a number of cities direct from Ankara and Izmir. Atlas Jet (tel. 444-3387; www.atlasjet.com), the first airline to provide free airport transfers for passengers to destinations in Adana, Antalya, Bodrum, and Izmir, flies from Istanbul to Antalya, Bodrum, and Izmir, as well as direct between Antalya and Bodrum.

Domestic fares can go as low as 39€ one-way, off-season, with advance purchase. These days, with flights consistently full, it's a good idea to plan ahead, particularly if you plan on traveling during one of the major bayrams, or religious holidays. Tickets can be purchased online, at one of the airline offices, or through an officially recognized travel agent.

By Car

Driving through Turkey is a great way to travel independently with the utmost of freedom. This is even more the case now that the road conditions have improved dramatically in recent years. Turkey has been pouring investment into road infrastructure, including the establishment of the multilane toll roads around Istanbul, Ankara, and Izmir and the widening of major provincial thoroughfares. In fact, except for the road signs (which on the toll collection booths are now also in English), you'll almost think you were driving in Europe. Likewise, petrol stations are ubiquitous along highways, usually offering rest facilities, snacks, drinks, and of course tea, while along more humble back roads, you can find wildly typical mom-and-pop roadside stands willing to whip up some gözleme (salty crepe filled with your choice of cheese, potato, or spinach) and ayran.

But getting to a destination is different than being there. Cities are increasingly implementing one-way traffic systems, and the traffic police are becoming unmistakably enthusiastic over performing their jobs. The shortage of parking makes these one-way roads even more of a challenge; think about arriving, overshooting your destination, and getting ushered all the way back out to the main road into town.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212, 800/879-2847 in Canada; www.avis.com) has locations in all major cities, at most airports, and at select hotels and resorts. National Car Rental (tel. 877/222-9058; www.nationalcar.com) has outlets pretty much everywhere, too, with rates comparable to those of Avis. Other options are Budget (tel. 800/527-0700, or 800/268-8900 in Canada; www.budget.com), with limited outlets in Turkey; Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S.); and the German-based Sixt (international pay-for-service hotline tel. 49-180/523-2222, or tel. 0232/444-0076 in Turkey; www.sixt.com), with 20 locations throughout Turkey.

A Note on Distances -- The concept of precision is a foreign one in Turkey. "Not far" is a relative term and "just over there" indicates a point in the distance as the crow flies. Similarly, when comparing the travel literature on distances between towns, you'll notice a glaring absence of consistency. Please note that although all distances in this guide have been confirmed using official maps and brochures, you might be looking at a different source than the one I got the mileage from.

By Train

In the years leading up to World War I, Turkey's railroads developed thanks to the "generosity" of German and British government-supported ventures sucking up to an as-yet neutral potential ally. These entrepreneurs recognized the value of old stone, making not-so-convenient detours in the track-laying to valuable archaeological sites. The result was a uselessly meandering system highly efficient at carting away priceless archaeological finds, enriching both foreign museums and the pockets of these "part-time engineers." The Pergamum Altar is now in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin; King Priam's treasures were whisked out of Troy, passing through Berlin's Hermitage Museum and on to Moscow's Pushkin Museum, while many treasures from the Temple of Artemis are now housed in the British Museum. Recognizing this infrastructural Achilles Heel, the Turkish authorities have instituted major railway upgrades. Keep your eyes peeled for the completion of the high-speed line between Ankara and Istanbul, between Ankara and Konya, and the Marmaray, billed as the "backbone of Istanbul's transportation system." For information on timetables and fares, log on to www.tcdd.gov.tr.

By Bus

Traveling by bus is the primary mode of ground transportation in Turkey, for both long hauls and short hops. There are several categories of bus travel: municipal buses, the local dolmus, long-distance buses, and short-distance minibuses.

In big cities, such as Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, and Antalya, municipal buses provide a cheap way to get around, if you can actually figure out how. Destinations are posted on the windshield, a handy reference for veterans of a city, but virtually useless for any newcomer. That's why it's always a good idea to ask the driver if he's going your way before getting on. Getting on in the middle of a bus route can also be confusing, but there's always the ubiquitous good Samaritan there to steer you in the right direction.

Another popular and economic way of getting around locally is the dolmus, essentially a minivan with passenger seats. The best description of these little group taxis is in the translation: dolmus in English means "stuffed." The dolmus follows a set route, stopping and starting to pick up passengers until no one else will fit in it. The main stops are posted on the windshield, and you pay according to the distance that you go, anywhere from 1.50TL on up to 8TL for longer trips. This system works well in and around small towns; drivers will politely honk as they drive to see if you want to get on, and routes are direct to the places you want to go. Dolmuses do run on Sunday, so don't let those crafty taxi drivers convince you otherwise.

In major metropolitan areas such as Istanbul, the process is a bit more complicated, even for the locals. The best way to avoid an inner-city trip to nowhere is to board at one of the dolmus stands marked by a blue "D" and take it to the final destination (preferably the same destination as yours). Fares are usually posted and rarely exceed 3.50TL per ride. It's also acceptable to pay the driver just before you get off, so you can enjoy a bit of spontaneity as well. Dolmuses stop running in the early evening, so in the outlying areas, make sure you've got a way back to the hotel.

Long-distance buses are an integral part of the Turkish culture because they're cheap (or at least they used to be) and comfortable, and because service is near-comprehensive. The major bus companies in Turkey (Note: Phone numbers beginning with 444 are national toll-free numbers and can be dialed from anywhere in Turkey) are Ulusoy (tel. 444-1888; www.ulusoy.com.tr), Varan (tel. 444-8999; www.varanturizm.com), Kamil Koç (tel. 444-0KOC [0562]; www.kamilkoc.com.tr), Uludag (tel. 444-2222; www.uludagturizm.com.tr), Metro (tel. 444-3455; www.metroturizm.com.tr), and Pamukkale (tel. 444-3535; www.pamukkale.com.tr), with the first two costing nearly double the other companies.

All have counters at the local bus station (otogar) as well as offices conveniently located around town. The better bus companies offer free shuttle service between the ticket office and your bus at the otogar.

If you're on a more relaxed timetable, it's just as easy to show up at the otogar; with competition stiff for your business, the bus companies that provide service to your destination will most certainly find you. Take your time and don't be bullied into buying a ticket from the first guy who hooks you in, because his bus may not be the first one to leave for your destination.

If you're like me, you believe it should take approximately 3 hours to cover 322km (200 miles). Gauge at least 40% more time on the bus than what you figure it would take you to get there by car.

Water and soft drinks are served on the bus; if you're lucky, you'll get a little kid-size breakfast cake to tide you over until the next feeding. A sprinkle of cologne is part of the Turkish culture, but better the brand that smells of baby oil and talcum powder than the one with the potent fragrance of Lemon Pledge. Rest stops are made at erratic intervals, but there's usually enough time at one of the pickup and drop-off points for a quick dash to the Turkish toilet. (Let the man onboard know you'll be right back!)

Except on rare occasions, unacquainted men and women do not sit together on the bus. My grievance with this tradition is more practical than unprogressive: Old Turkish ladies tend to be hefty and spill out onto the adjacent seat, while it is common practice for a Turkish mother to save the cost of a bus fare by seating her 6-year-old son on her lap for the 6-hour trip.

Getting There

By Plane

Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.com) is a great newish search engine providing near-comprehensive information on airlines serving your trajectory of choice.

From the United States & Canada -- Turkish Airlines (tel. 800/874-8875; www.turkishairlines.com), American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), and Delta Airlines (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) offer the only direct nonstop service to Istanbul's Atatürk International Airport (IST) from the United States. Canadians flying to Turkey can now fly direct for the first time on Turkish Airlines, which instituted flights from Toronto to Istanbul in July 2009. These airlines are just the tip of the iceberg, as most major international airlines flying to Istanbul offer flights from North America much too numerous to inventory, either as part of their own network or in partnership with another airline. Choosing one involves a change of planes in the airline's home country hub, but this slight inconvenience is often accompanied by cheaper, more comparable fares.

From the United Kingdom -- The only nonstop service to Istanbul out of London is provided by British Airways (tel. 0845/77-333-77) and Turkish Airlines (tel. 20/7766-9300), which also flies nonstop from Manchester (tel. 161/489-5287).

There are also budget and/or charter airline options. Onur Air, Senlikkoy Mah. Çatal Sok. 3, Florya (tel. 0212/663-9176; www.onurair.com.tr), offers service from several U.K. cities. EasyJet, Academy, Units 5 & 6 Prince Way, London Luton Airport, Luton, Bedfordshire (www.easyjet.com) flies direct to Istanbul's Sabiha Gökçen Airport from Luton and Gatwick Airports. In addition to these flights into Istanbul, a number of airlines offer direct flights to Antalya, Bodrum, Dalaman, and Izmir along the Turkish coast, most (but not all) in summers only. These include British Airways and Thomas Cook, flying year-round from Gatwich to Antalya; British Airways flies into Izmir four times per week, while EasyJet, Monarch Airlines, Thomson Airways, and British Midland fly direct into Dalaman from a number of U.K. cities.

From Australia & New Zealand -- There are numerous choices for connecting flights to Turkey, the most challenging of which will be selecting your preferred connecting country. The following airlines, in partnership with Turkish Airlines, allow you to make the journey with only one plane change:

British Airways (tel. 1300/767-177 in Australia, or 0800/274-847 in New Zealand), Singapore Airlines (tel. 612/9350-0100; www.singaporeair.com), Thai Airways (tel. 1300/651-960; www.thaiair.com), and Emirates Airlines (tel. 1300/303-777 in Australia, or tel. 0508/364-728 in New Zealand; www.emirates.com); Etihad Airlines (tel. 1800/998-995; www.etihadairways.com) will get you from Sydney and Brisbane; additionally Qantas (tel. 13-13-13 in Australia, 64-9/357-8900 in New Zealand; www.qantas.com.au) flies from Brisbane. From Melbourne, single-change flights can be had on Emirates and Etihad Airlines.

From Perth, Emirates Airlines flies direct to Istanbul with a stopover in Dubai, while Cathay Pacific flies in partnership with Turkish. Travel from Adelaide, Canberra, and Darwin requires two or more changes of plane.

From New Zealand, Air New Zealand (tel. 13-24-76; www.airnewzealand.com.au) and Japan Airlines (tel. 1300-525-287; www.jal.com) will both get you out of Auckland, with a change in Osaka onto a Turkish Airlines flight. Wellington and Christchurch both require two plane changes. For the best possible comparisons, visit the popular booking sites www.zuji.com.au, www.bestflights.com.au, www.airfaresflights.com.au, or the old workhorse www.expedia.com.au.

By Car

With global warming issues and petrol prices in the stratosphere, driving to Turkey makes bad sense. But some people just insist on the comfort of their own vehicle, so be prepared for the red tape of sorting out multiple transit visas and at least 4 days of hard driving. There are two traditional routes to take: The "northern" one through Belgium, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, and Bulgaria. Or the "southern" one through Belgium, Germany, Austria, and Italy, with a car ferry connection to Turkey. Drivers planning to stay longer than 3 months must have an International Driving Permit (IDP), which also comes in handy in out-of-the-way places where the local police can't decipher your national version. You'll also be required to provide proof of third-party insurance at the Turkish border.

By Train

Depending upon your starting point, train travel from Europe may require a number of connections. Direct trains depart daily from Bucharest and Budapest and take about 27 and 40 hours, respectively. Trains also depart daily to Istanbul from Pythion and Thessaloniki in Greece and from Sofia, Bulgaria. For information on the various connections available, visit www.bahn.de.

Remember that it is your responsibility to obtain visas where required (either transit or tourist, depending on your travel plans) for every border that you will cross.

Sirkeci Station (tel. 0212/527-0050) has been serving train passengers arriving (and departing) Istanbul from European cities for well over a century and has served as a model for railway stations throughout central Europe. A tram stop is immediately outside the station entrance, but don't rely on this if you're first arriving, as there is no ticket kiosk at this stop.

By Boat

Options for arriving into Istanbul by sea are limited. Serving the Black Sea, Ukrferry (www.ukrferry.com) runs a weekly ferry departing Odessa, Ukraine, on Monday, arriving in Istanbul on Wednesday. Istanbul's municipal ferry company, Istanbul Deniz Otobüsleri (www.ido.com.tr) operates fast ferries and seabuses from Bandirma, Bursa (actually, Güzelyali) and Yalova (all on the south coast of the Marmara Sea), as well as from the Marmara and Avsa islands. All of these ferries arrive into Istanbul's Yenikapi ferry terminal. The privately owned consortium now running the defunct Turkish Maritime Lines -- now Denizline (tel. 0212/444-3369; www.denizline.com.tr) -- operates two cruise-type ferries (pool, fitness room, disco, kid's club) between Izmir (Alsancak Ferry Terminal) and Istanbul (Sarayburnu docks, adjacent to Eminönü) departing four times per week at 5:30pm, arriving the following morning at 8:30am.

A number of ferries plying the Mediterranean arrive to ports in Turkey, but then it's up to you to get from the port to Istanbul. Marmara Lines (tel. 39-010/573-1805 in Italy; www.traghettiweb.it) operates service to Çesme (1 hour west of Izmir, along Turkey's Aegean), from Ancona and Brindisi, in Italy, between March and November. Also in summer, ferries provide service between Sochi (visit www.seaport-sochi.ru) on the Russian coast of the Black Sea, and Trabzon, in Turkey. You can also take puddle jumpers between the Greek Islands and Marmaris, Bodrum, and Çesme.

Visitor Information

All of the Turkish embassies funnel Internet-based queries for visa requirements to the Turkish "consulate online" at www.e-konsolosluk.net. The site provides up-to-date, country-specific information and, although completely unnecessary, processing of visas in advance of arrival.

In the U.S., the Turkish Government Tourist Office has a presence in both New York and Washington, D.C.: 821 United Nations Plaza, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/687-2195) and 2525 Massachusetts Ave., Ste. 306, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/612-6800), where you can stock up on maps, brochures, ferry schedules to Greece, and access to practical information via an interactive computer database.

Travel Tip

Tickets for all of Turkey's main events can be purchased through Biletix (tel. 0216/556-9800; www.biletix.com) and at an ample list of retail outlets and hotel concierge desks. In Istanbul, you can get your tickets at the Divan (the Taksim rebuild is scheduled to open its doors in 2010), Swissôtel, Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton, Hyatt, Radisson SAS, Marmara, and Marmara Pera hotels. See the website for locations in other major cities.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although homosexuality is legal in Turkey, we're talking about a fairly conservative culture, so discretion is advisable -- even if Turkish men are into more public displays of affection with each other than with their wives. Still gayness is coming more and more out of the closet in Turkey; in 2009, more than 3,000 members of the lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) community attended the Pride March in Istanbul. Same-sex couples now have a local resource in www.turkeygay.net. The site provides sources such as gay-friendly hotels and links to further resources. Istanbul Gay (www.istanbulgay.com) provides Istanbul-specific resources such as gay/lesbian guides, gay bar tours, and gay-friendly hotels. Kaos GL (www.kaosgl.com) was the first gay and lesbian magazine in Turkey; their online presence has a substantial section in English, with features addressing issues affecting gays and lesbians in Turkey.

Tips for Women Travelers

Important Tips for Single Women Travelers

Bait and Switch -- It's hard to believe, but in the major tourist areas of Turkey, particularly in the streets of Sultanahmet, an entire industry thrives on the acquisition and manipulation of emotions for economic gain. Foreign women, receptive, even eager for new and exotic experiences, are just ripe for the picking. Although less than attractive ones are particularly vulnerable, any single girl with cash in the bank and foreign nationality is a target.

Sultanahmet is filled with professional "gigolos" practiced in the art of courtship and persuasion. The better ones come armed with scripts; the statements "You foreigners don't know how to trust anyone!" and "You foreigners think that we (Turks) are all thieves and barbarians" effectively disarm even the most remotely liberal.

Inevitably the topic of how bad things are economically will be carefully broached: how he can't pay his bills, how worried he is over his debts, and how any moment the authorities will repossess his furniture. Some invent elaborate stories of woe; before you know it, the woman is asking -- no, insisting -- that he accept her help.

Some seducers even take this kind of behavior to its limits by pursuing the game as far as the wedding contract. But the most deplorable of the lot have been known to forge the marriage certificate with the assistance of those in the neighborhood even less scrupulous than themselves.

But this kind of behavior doesn't represent all of Turkey, and overall women traveling alone in Turkey are treated with an almost exaggerated courtesy. In some cases, a woman will be in a better position to experience the openness of the Turkish people than if traveling en masse. With all of this warmth and hospitality, it's difficult to know how to temper one's instincts toward friendliness without affirming the general opinion among the more conservative class of Turks that all Western women are prostitutes. Even an innocent greeting or seemingly harmless camaraderie can be misinterpreted, so it's important to find a balance between polite formality and the openness that North American, European, and Australian women find so normal.

Dining -- Practically speaking, no matter how modern the country may seem on the surface, don't be surprised if you're the only female in a restaurant. Eateries often have an aile salonu (family salon), an unintimidating dining area provided for men, women, couples, and anyone else not wishing to dine among groups of smoking, drinking, mustached Turks.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotels in Turkey are classified by a government-designated star system. Roughly, stars are awarded for the presence of such amenities as fitness centers or conference space, so a worn-out old five-star with moldy bathroom tile might rate higher than a brand-new sky-lit gem with nothing to offer but basic clean rooms, stunning balconies, and a pool.

Unless stated otherwise, the price of hotel rooms listed here includes breakfast and tax. In higher-priced hotels, tax and breakfast are not included, although it is often possible to score a promotional rate that does. Also, prices listed here reflect the rates quoted on the hotel's proprietary website (for high season), which are as close to reality as you can get without haggling over the phone. Many of the larger chain hotels use booking systems that price rooms according to real-time demand, so I've tried to paint as accurate a picture as possible, given the inherent and often unexpected fluctuations of supply and demand. (Rack rates are those fictional prices posted behind the reception and that are almost never quoted -- not even to the most desperate last-minute walk-in.) All bets are off in Istanbul between Christmas and New Year's, as well as during the Formula 1 event and other major conventions, when rates go up, up, and away. Also, many hotels offer a 5% to 10% discount for payment in cash or free pickups/drop-offs from the airport for stays of a few nights or longer. Parents with kids will be pleased to learn that children 6 and under, and in some cases 12 and under, stay free.

In rare cases, the currency of operation is not specified by the hotel on its website. This leaves the hotelier some wiggle room to take advantage of the stronger currencies. For example, say I contact the hotel for the price of a room. Before I get a response, I'll be asked where I'm calling from. If I say the U.S., the quote will be, say, $300 (462TL). The price quote in euros by contrast would be 300€ or 572TL. Get it? This can be quite a shock when you go to pay and you have no written confirmation of the rate quote. Always get it in writing, as this scam is becoming sadly more prevalent in the smaller hotels. Note: Sometimes the hotel will simply ask you where you're calling from in order to be sincerely helpful by quoting the price in a currency convenient to you. Again, best to do this type of business in writing.

Many rural hotels rely exclusively on solar power, which sounds great until you get in a cold shower at sunrise. This is increasingly rare, however, as many establishments are installing backup generators for "24-hour hot water." Power outages are an unavoidable part of daily life, and because the water supply operates on an electric pumping system, there will be no water for the duration of the outage, usually only a couple of hours. In the sweaty heat of the summer, this is where the neighborhood hamam comes in handy.

Typical hotel rooms in Turkey seem to have more rooms with twin beds, so unless you specify that you want a double "French" bed, you and your partner will feel like a couple out of a 1950s sitcom. Fitted sheets seem to be an anomaly in Turkey, so if you're a restless sleeper in a village pension, expect to get a view of the mattress in the morning. Ask for an extra sheet if there's nothing between you and the blanket, as bed-making habits in Turkey vary from hotel to hotel. TVs are generally a standard feature in rooms, but even a TV with a satellite hookup will limit you to BBC World, CNN, and endless hours of cycling tournaments. Local programming is at least captivating, with reruns of Guys and Dolls, The Terminator, or Law & Order in Turkish. Another interesting media feature in older hotel rooms is a built-in radio with centrally piped-in music. There is generally a choice of up to three channels, and if you don't like the music, I discovered that calling down to the reception for special requests was effective.

Another standard characteristic of hotels rated three stars or lower (Turkish rating) is the "Roman shower" -- essentially a showerhead on the wall and a drain in the floor. In some cases, you'll get a square enamel stall basin and a shower curtain, and practiced proficiency with the hand-held showerhead will eventually ensure the least amount of leakage on the bathroom floor. Be aware, too, that an ongoing problem of not just the older hotels is the rapidity in which a clear drain in even a five-star hotel will get clogged. Be patient, and if it's a real nuisance, ask the hotel concierge for assistance.

All hotels provide laundry and dry-cleaning services, seeing to it in the process that they make a huge profit on the transaction. Depending on the establishment, expect to pay anywhere from 3€ to 12€ per item for ordinary laundry. At around 10TL per load, a local Laundromat (camasirhane) is a cheap alternative, as long as you don't mind borrowing the hotel iron. Another service offered by all five-star hotels is babysitting, arranged by the hotel through reputable outside agencies.

Surfing for Hotels -- For a list of charming hotels beyond those recommended in this guide, log on to www.smallhotels.com.tr and use the "Search Hotel" function. Be aware, however, that all of the hotels listed on this site pay a subscription fee and therefore may not be as wonderful in person. Another new online resource is the suite of customer-rated sites listing selected hotels in a location. These sites include www.antalyaresorts.com, www.istanbulresorts.com, www.izmirresorts.com, and so on, with sites for Çesme, Marmaris, Fethiye, Bodrum, Kusadasi, and Cappadocia.

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.com). Two other great resources for locating affordable hotels are www.venere.com and www.hostelworld.com, which, in addition to youth hostels, lists a number of respectable pension and B&B options.

HotelChatter.com offers smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent reviews of hotels and resort properties.

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.