Planning a trip to Turks and Caicos

Island Hopping

Caicos Cays: Getting There & Getting Around

The Caicos Cays are reachable by boat, private plane, or air taxi; Pine Cay has a tiny airstrip that's used by island homeowners and Meridian Club guests. Guests staying 7 nights or more at Pine Cay's Meridian Club enjoy complimentary air-taxi transfers from the Provo airport and boat transfers to and from the island. The Parrot Cay resort arranges taxi and boat transfers for its guests from the Provo airport. A number of the uninhabited cays, such as Fort George Cay and Little Water Cay, are destinations on many local tour-boat operators' half-day and full-day beach excursions.

North Caicos: Getting There & Getting Around

There are no scheduled flights into North Caicos. Charters sometimes fly to the little North Caicos airstrip; the flight is 10 minutes.

Most people take the ferry to get to North Caicos. Caribbean Cruisin' Ltd. (tel. 649/946-5406, cellphone 649/231-4191; http://tciferry.tciferry.com; $55 round-trip, cash only), offers the TCI Ferry service between Provo's Walkin Marina (Heaving Down Rock, Leeward) and Sandy Point Marina, North Caicos, five times a day from Monday to Saturday and three trips on Sunday; the trip is 25 to 30 minutes long. MV My Girl Ferry also has ferry service tp North, leaving Heaving Down Rock and arriving in Bellefield Landing (tel. 649/241-0599). Otherwise, you can get to North Caicos by chartering a water-taxi from one of the many tour-boat operators in the area; it's not cheap, however. Try Big Blue Collective (tel. 649/946-5034; https://bigbluecollective.com); the trip takes around 35 minutes. For ground transportation in North and Middle, call Gardiner's Taxi (tel. 649/946-7141).

Causeway Linking North & Middle Caicos

A causeway linking North and Middle Caicos opened in late 2007, replacing the weekend ferry service between Bottle Creek on North Caicos and Middle Caicos. The 40m (130-ft.) causeway was dedicated to two men, Marco Delroy Williams and Javern Stacey Misick, who died when their boat sank in the creek in January 2007. The causeway was severely damaged during the hurricanes of 2008 but has since been reopened and greatly improved.

Middle Caicos: Getting There & Getting Around

There are no scheduled flights into Middle Caicos. Charters sometimes fly to the Middle airstrip; the flight is 20 minutes. Most people get to Middle by taking the ferry from Provo to North Caicos and then renting a car (or hiring a taxi) and driving through North Caicos to Middle -- that way you get to experience North as well!

A great way to see Middle Caicos is on a full-day "Heart of the Islands" eco-tour ($275/per person) or bike trip ($255/per person) with Big Blue Collective (tel. 649/946-5034; https://bigbluecollective.com).

Middle Caicos native and guide extraordinaire Cardinal Arthur (tel. 649/241-0730) offers ground transportation, island and cave tours, boat excursions, and fishing expeditions.

South Caicos: Getting There & Getting Around

Both InterCaribbean (tel. 649/946-4999; http://intercaribbean.com) and Caicos Express (tel. 649/941-5730; www.turksandcaicosflights.com) fly daily to South Caicos from Provo; flights cost $116 to $145 and take 20 to 25 minutes. Taxis are available at the airport.

New twice-weekly TCI Ferry service with Caribbean Cruisin' Ltd. (tel. 649/946-5406; http://tciferry.tciferry.com) runs between Big South and Walkin Marina, Heaving Down Rock, Leeward, Providenciales. The 90-minute roundtrip fare is $110 per person. Keep in mind that cargo is limited (one bag and one carry-on per person; $1 per lb. over 25-lb. per-person max. weight).

Grand Turk: Getting There & Getting Around

Most people fly into Providenciales and then take a short flight on a domestic airline into Grand Turk International Airport (also known as J.A.G.S. McCartney International Airport). Several daily flights between Provo and Grand Turk are offered by both InterCaribbean (tel. 649/946-4999; http://intercaribbean.com) and Caicos Express (tel. 649/941-5730; www.turksandcaicosflights.com). The flight from Provo to Grand Turk takes 30 minutes and costs $67.50 to $90 round-trip.

Grand Turk is also cruise-ship central in the TCI -- in fact, it has the only cruise-ship port on the islands, welcoming big ships from Carnival, Crystal Cruises, and Holland America. When the ships are in (4-5 days a week), the 13-acre Grand Turk Cruise Center (www.grandturkcc.com) is bustling with shops and eateries, including a Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville. The center has a massive pool and a nice stretch of beach.  

On Grand Turk you can rent cars and scooters at Tony's Car Rental (tel. 649/231-1806; www.tonyscarrental.com). Cars and jeeps cost $80 to $150 a day, scooter rentals cost $60 a day. Tony's also offers scooter tours of the island.

Taxis are always available at the Grand Turk airport, and most drivers are more than happy to give visitors a tour of the island; expect to pay around $50 to $60 for a 45-minute island tour.

Grand Turk is great to explore by bicycle; rentals cost $25 to $30 a day and are available at Tony's Car Rental (tel. 649/231-1806; www.tonyscarrental.com)

Salt Cay: Getting There & Getting Around

The notoriously tiny airstrip at the Salt Cay airport has been lengthened and resurfaced -- but you still need to arrive during daylight hours; the one-runway airstrip is not lighted for night. Most people fly into Providenciales and then take a short flight on a domestic airline into Salt Cay; flights also are offered between Salt Cay and Grand Turk International Airport (also known as J.A.G.S. McCartney International Airport). Several daily flights between Provo and Grand Turk are offered by both InterCaribbean (tel. 649/946-4999; http://intercaribbean.com) and Caicos Express (tel. 649/941-5730; www.turksandcaicosflights.com). The flight from Provo to Salt Cay takes 30 minutes and costs $180 per person roundtrip.

A government-subsidized ferry (tel. 649/241-1009) runs from Salt Cay to Grand Turk (and back again at the end of the day), weather permitting, every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday (leaving from Deane's Dock -- the island's only dock, by the way). The trip takes an hour and costs $12. You can also hire a private boat operator to take you between Salt Cay and Grand Turk (as long as the seas aren't too rough).

Salt Cay Divers (tel. 540/336-8600; https://saltcaydivers.com) offers a range of excursions, from diving to whale-watching to snorkeling.

No one needs a car to get around Salt Cay, which has more donkeys than cars to begin with; it has no paved roads and is the perfect place for getting around on foot, by bike, or by golf cart. Most lodging rentals offer bikes or golf carts for rent.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Take Home a Potcake . . . or Two

The homeless dogs you see roaming the streets of many Caribbean countries generally stay that way: homeless and constantly foraging for food and shelter. The Turks & Caicos Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (TCSPCA) was founded in 2000 to better address the plight of these homeless dogs, here called "potcakes" -- the name comes from the food once fed to stray dogs, the caked remains at the bottom of cooking pots. And they've succeeded to a large degree on Provo: You rarely see collarless potcakes running lickety-split along the beach (the Environmental Health department has been cracking down, some say a little too zealously). Many people who've adopted potcakes find that they're smart, unflappable, incredibly adaptable and loving dogs. Potcakes look like the ultimate mutts, with floppy ears and tan or black markings; many a visitor has fallen in love during a stay in the TCI. Along with lobbying the government to adopt animal protection laws and create an animal control unit, the TCSPCA has been able to find homes for many of these dogs all over the world. The TCSPCA has been instrumental in promoting "off-island adoptions," making it easy for visitors to actually carry home a potcake puppy (the TCI has no pet quarantine periods coming in or going out of the country). Every puppy comes with shots and medical certificates and can be carried in the passenger cabins of most airplanes. For more information, contact the TCSPCA (tel. 649/941-8846; http://tcspca.tc) or the island charity set up to improve the lives of TCI potcakes, the Potcake Foundation (www.potcakefoundation.com). The Potcake Place is a nonprofit rescue organization (tel. 649/231-1010; www.potcakeplace.com).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2007-2008, 17th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Calendar of Events

January

Junkanoo, island-wide. Junkanoo is held throughout the year for public holidays and local events, but the biggest Junkanoo celebrations are on Emancipation Day, Boxing Day, and the early morning of New Year's Day. Groups compete against each other for the most outrageous costumes, the best drummers, the best rhythm section, and more. Midnight to sunrise, New Year's Day morning.

February

Valentine's Day Cup, Bambarra Beach, Middle Caicos. Traditional Model Sailboat Race, with trophies and other prizes, is followed by music, dancing, food, and other festivities on the beach. The model sailboats are built in Bambarra from branches of the gum-elemi tree, constructed to scale with the actual rigging found on a full-size sloop. For more information, contact tel. 649/941-7639 or middlecaicos@tciway.tc. Saturday closest to Valentine's Day.

March

St. Patrick's Day Pub Crawl, Providenciales. Now in its 20th year, the crawl generally starts at the Tiki Hut and ends up at Danny Buoy's, with lots of suds along the way. Contact tel. 649/231-1645. March 17.

April

Annual Kite-Flying Competition, the Children's Park, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales. The 20th Annual Kite-Flying Competition in 2010 featured awards for best homemade kites, a beach party, an Easter egg hunt, and food and music. Contact tel. 649/946-4970. Easter Monday.

May

Big South Regatta, South Caicos. The Big South Regatta, a tradition since 1967, features boat races, concerts, food, and entertainers. Contact tel. 649/946-4970. Last weekend in May.

June

Caicos Classic IGFA Billfish Release Tournament, Providenciales. The Rotary Club of Providenciales sponsors this annual fishing competition, now in its 25th year, with an emphasis on regional billfish, including the Atlantic blue marlin, the Atlantic sailfish, and the white marlin. Go to https://caicosclassic.tc. Early June.

August

Emancipation Day, island-wide. Celebrating the freeing of the slaves, declared from Oddfellows Lodge in Grand Turk in 1834. August 1.

Middle Caicos Day, Middle Caicos. Parades, beauty pageants, music, food, bonfires, straw-weaving competitions, and an all-day beach party at Bambarra Beach. Contact tel. 649/941-7639 or middlecaicos@tciway.tc. Last weekend in August.

September

National Youth Day, island-wide. This public holiday celebrates the youth of the island. September 29.

October

Columbus Day, island-wide. This public holiday celebrates Columbus's "discovery" of the New World. Some historians believe that the explorer first came ashore at Grand Turk. October 9.

November

Museum Day, Grand Turk. The Turks & Caicos National Museum celebrates the anniversary of its opening with loads of activities, including song and dance performances by local schoolchildren. For more information, go to www.tcmuseum.org or call tel. 649/946-2160. Saturday closest to November 21 (the day the museum opened in 1991).

Caribbean Food & Wine Festival, Providenciales. Popular food festival with gourmet safaris, dinners under the stars, visits from international chefs, tastings, music, and more. For details, see http://caribbeanfoodandwinefestivaltci.com. November.

Turks & Caicos International Film Festival (TCIIF), Providenciales. This weekend affair is all about film, but with a focus on the ocean and natural environments. It's got premieres, master classes, and genuine movie stars, like Delroy Lindo. For more information, go to www.tciff.org. Mid-November.

December

Christmas Tree-Lighting Ceremony, Providenciales. The Providenciales Kiwanis Club invites the public to the Downtown Ball Park for Christmas festivities, including a choir and a visit from Santa Claus. Mid-December.

Old Year's Night, island-wide. Services at churches all over the country ring out the old and ring in the new. December 31.

Getting Around

Your most likely point of entry into the Turks and Caicos Islands will be the Providenciales International Airport. Depending on your final destination, from there you will take a taxi or rental car or hop on another flight. Please keep in mind, however, that interisland travel and brisk efficiency are not necessarily synonymous; the weather has a lot to do with it, but so does the sleepy-lidded pace of things. Get a couple of good books and just cozy up to that velvety breeze.

Note: In general, addresses have no street numbers, more typically just designations like "Leeward Highway," "Lower Bight Road," or simply "Providenciales."

From the Airport

Most of Provo's lodgings are an easy 15- to 20-minute taxi ride from the airport. The days of the free hotel transfers to and from the airport are pretty much over -- your hotel can arrange a taxi transfer but for a charge (or the fee will be rolled into your rate); otherwise, plenty of taxis are on hand to meet arriving flights. If for some reason none are around, call your hotel or the Provo Taxi Association (tel. 649/946-5481). Cabs are metered and rates set by the government -- but not all taxi drivers turn on their meters, so it's a good idea to negotiate the fare before you leave the airport -- or anytime, for that matter. Expect to pay around $22 to $25 (plus tip) per couple (additional person $7.50) for a taxi ride from the airport to the Grace Bay area. Most taxis are vans equipped to carry more than one group of passengers, so it stands to reason that the more people on board, the lower the rate per couple.

Because the island is so large and its hotels and restaurants are so far-flung, a rental car is often useful on Providenciales, but be warned: Renting a car on the TCI is not cheap. The airport has several rental-car agencies.

Taxis

If you decide to forgo a rental car, you may find yourself needing a taxi every now and then, to get back to your hotel after dinner out, for example. Taxis are expensive -- just jumping from one section of Grace Bay to another can run into double figures -- and they're plentiful on Provo, but there are no designated taxi stands. We've hailed taxis down in the road a number of occasions, however. Or just have your hotel or restaurant call one for you. We also highly recommend Clayton Cox of 3 C's Taxi Service (tel. 649/244-1546), Lorenzo's Taxi & Tours (tel. 649/243-8907), Gray's Taxi & Tours (tel. 649/242-3166), and Boy Hall & Son Taxi (tel. 649/244-3894 or 649/231-6308). If you find a taxi driver you like, ask for his or her card or jot down the number on the side of the van, and avail yourself of his or her services throughout your trip (taxi drivers are also happy to show you around the island -- be sure to negotiate the fee upfront). Some Provo hotels (the Grace Bay Club being one) include complimentary shuttle service around the Grace Bay area. Otherwise, most places are happy to call a taxi for you.

Rental Cars

Three major U.S.-based car-rental agencies with a franchise in the Turks and Caicos Islands are Budget, with two Provo locations: the airport and Downtown Provo, in the Town Centre Mall (tel. 800/472-3325 in the U.S., or 649/946-4079, -5400; www.budgetrentacar.com); Avis, with a branch at the airport (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S. and Canada, or 649/946-4705; www.avis.tc); and Hertz affiliate Mystique Car Rental, located at the Ports of Call shopping complex on Grace Bay Road and on Old Airport Road, 2 minutes from the airport (tel. 649/941-3910; www.hertztci.com). Cars rent for $40 to $225 a day (depending on the vehicle); collision-damage insurance costs $10 to $12 a day. For booking rental cars online, the best deals are usually found at rental-car company websites, although all the major online travel agencies also offer rental-car reservations services. Most cars are automatic transmission.

If you'd like to try your luck with a local agency, call one of the following: Grace Bay Car Rentals and Sales (tel. 649/941-8500; https://gracebaycarrentals.com), on Grace Bay Road across from the Seven Stars resort; Scooter Bob's, Turtle Cove Marina (tel. 649/946-4684; www.scooterbobstci.com), which rents jeeps, vans, and SUVs; and Rent a Buggy (tel. 649/946-4158; https://rentabuggy.tc) on Leeward Highway, near Central Square. Most of these agencies offer free pickup and drop-off. Rates average from $40 to $200 per day, plus a 12% government tax.

In the British tradition, cars on all the islands drive on the left. You only need a valid driver's license from your home country to rent a vehicle.

Renting a Car in Provo: Pros & Cons -- Many visitors wonder whether renting a car is the thing to do when in Provo. Some things to consider:

Pros:

• You can easily tour the island and see those areas you can't easily walk to from Grace Bay, like Long Bay, Turtle Cove, and Sapodilla Bay. You can eat out and not have to walk long distances to get places or worry about relying on taxis.
• You can pick up supplies and food (especially if you have self-catering capabilities) from the Graceway Gourmet, the Graceway IGA, and other food suppliers with ease.
• Taxis are pricey!

Cons:

• If you're North American, you have to quickly master the nuances of left-side driving and navigating roundabouts.
• Parking is limited at many resorts. Some hotels offset this issue by providing complimentary transportation around the Grace Bay area for guests without cars.
• Most, if not all, tour operators include hotel pickup as part of their excursion packages.
• Bike riding is an ideal way to get around and perfectly meshes with the eco-friendly island vibe. Some resorts offer complimentary bikes. Or you can rent a bike or a scooter through Caicos Wheels).
• Taxis are plentiful. Plus, more cars mean more congestion.
• Rental cars can be pricey!

Bicycles & Scooters

Bicycling is an ideal way to get around the flat Grace Bay area, especially now that the area roads have been paved with sidewalks running on both sides. Many resorts, including Somerset, the Grace Bay Club, and the Sands at Grace Bay, offer complimentary bikes for their guests. Both Scooter Bob's (Turtle Cove Marina; tel. 649/946-4684; www.scooterbobstci.com) and Caicos Wheels (Queens Landing Plaza, Grace Bay; tel. 649/242-6592; www.caicoswheels.com) rent bikes (as well as cars and scooters) in Providenciales. It will drop off and pick up bicycles at your resort; bikes cost $15-$17 per day (deposit required).

In addition to cars, jeeps, and SUVs, Scooter Bob's (Turtle Cove Marina; tel. 649/946-4684; www.scooterbobstci.com) rents two-passenger Yamaha scooters for $49 a day ($39 a day for 5 days or more). Advance reservations are required.

On Grand Turk, you can rent scooters and bikes at Tony's Rentals (tel. 649/946-1879; www.tonyscarrental.com).

On Foot

The 19km (12 miles) of Grace Bay Beach make for lovely strolls, and the nicely paved roads along Grace Bay have sidewalks, so getting around on foot is much easier than before. But once you get started, particularly with the tropical sun beating down, keep in mind that the distances are longer than they appear on a map -- why not take the beach route instead and soak in the views while you're strolling?

Escorted Tours & Independent Package Tours

For value-conscious travelers, packages are often a smart way to go because they can save you a ton of money. Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. You'll be on your own, but in most cases, an air/land/hotel package to TCI will include airfare, hotel, and car rental -- and it'll cost you less than just the hotel alone if you booked it yourself.

You'll find packages to Turks and Caicos, but they aren't as common as for other Caribbean Islands (TCI has instead opted for upscale marketing). Check out some of the big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, and Orbitz -- which do a brisk business in packages. Remember to comparison shop among at least three different operators, and always compare apples to apples.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land/hotel packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Liberty Travel (tel. 888/271-1584; www.libertytravel.com) also occasionally offers packages to Turks and Caicos.

Of course, don't forget to check hotel or resort websites for very desirable package deals, especially in the off-season. No, these packages rarely include airfares, but they're packed with extra amenities (or a night free) if you book a block of vacation time, say, 5 or 7 days. These packages are often built around themes and often include meals, spa treatments, or excursions along with the lodging.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members."

Tips on Accommodations

Saving on Your Hotel Room

The rates given in this guide are only "rack rates" -- that is, the officially posted rate that you'd be given if you just walked in off the street. Almost no one actually pays them. Always ask about packages and discounts. Comparison shop online for great deals on hotel rooms on hotel websites (which often offer multiday packages). Or check the prices on Hotels.com, Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire. Sometimes you get the best deal just by contacting the hotel directly.

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online-booking transaction.

The high season in the Turks and Caicos is the winter season, roughly from the middle of December through the middle of April. Rates are highest in the winter season -- with peak rates over the Christmas/New Year's holiday. It's a good idea to reserve your hotel room in advance in winter and essential to book well in advance for a stay over the Christmas holidays.

The off-season in the TCI is the rest of the year -- although the so-called "shoulder seasons," roughly late spring and late fall (after hurricane season is over) -- are increasingly popular. Still, outside the traditional high season, expect rates to fall, sometimes dramatically in the summer.

Watch Out for Those Extras! -- The government imposes a flat 12% occupancy tax, applicable to all hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants in the 40-island chain. When booking a room, ask whether the price you've been quoted includes the tax.

Furthermore, many hotels routinely add 10% to 12% in "service" fees, aka "resort fees." That means that with tax and service, some bills are 17% or even 25% higher than the price that was originally quoted to you!

That's not all. Some hotels slip in little hidden extras that add up quickly, including minibar charges and phone charges. Try to avoid making international calls from your hotel phone -- you'll be charged around $2.10 a minute, depending on the time of day, which can add up quickly. Many hotels also have fees for local calls, sometimes $1 and up. If you have a GSM cellphone with international roaming capabilities, you're in business; otherwise, you may want to consider renting a cellphone or buying a prepaid SIM card when you're on island.

And don't forget gratuities. You will be expected to tip just about everyone who does a service for you, from the beach boy who sets up your beach chairs and towels to your masseuse to your captain (and any mates who are particularly helpful) on a beach cruise. Many hotels now have personal concierge service, and you should tip them at the end of your stay. Note that a number of hotels have joined the Beaches resort as all-inclusives, which means you pay a flat rate that includes lodging, all meals and beverages, most activities, and all taxes and gratuities.

What The Abbreviations Mean -- Rate sheets often have these classifications:

• MAP (Modified American Plan) usually means room, breakfast, and dinner, unless the room rate has been quoted separately, in which case it means only breakfast and dinner.
• CP (Continental Plan) includes room and a light breakfast.
• EP (European Plan) means room only.
• AP (American Plan) includes your room plus three meals a day.

Hotels & Resorts

Many budget travelers assume they can't afford the big hotels and resorts. But there are so many packages out there and so many advertised sales during the low season that you might be pleasantly surprised at what you can get. And many hotels offer upgrades whenever they have a big block of rooms to fill and few reservations.

What Are Condo Hotels? -- In the Turks and Caicos, the buzzword in resort development is condo hotels. Many, if not most, of the resorts on Grace Bay are fully or partially condo hotels. Condo hotels are nothing but hotels whose units are sold to individual owners, usually even before the hotel is built. Most units then enter the resort rental pool: When the owner is not using the unit, it is managed and rented out to hotel guests by the resort; the owner then receives a percentage of the rental income. This is a popular concept in the TCI for a number of reasons, one of which is the favorable financial conditions here for international investors, large and small, including no property taxes, capital gains taxes, or sales taxes.

All-Inclusive Resorts -- The ideal all-inclusive is just that -- a place where everything -- meals, drinks, and most watersports -- is included. In the Turks and Caicos, several resorts now bill themselves as all-inclusive, including Beaches, Club Med Turkoise, the Beach House, and the Alexandra.

In the 1990s, so many competitors entered the all-inclusive market that the term means different things to the different resorts that embrace this marketing strategy. With the TCI all-inclusives, all meals, drinks, and gratuities are included, for example, but you'll have to pay for extras such as certain spa treatments and excursions (like scuba-diving trips).

The all-inclusives have a reputation for being expensive, but to many people not having to "pay as you go" or deal with gratuities is liberating and worth the money. If you're looking for ways to cut costs with an all-inclusive, the trick is to travel in off-peak periods, which doesn't always mean just from mid-April to mid-December. If you want a winter vacation at an all-inclusive, choose the month of January -- not February or the Christmas holidays, when prices are at their all-year high. The resorts also regularly offer special packages for weeklong stays; check the websites for the latest offerings.

Guesthouses/Inns -- An entirely different type of accommodations is the guesthouse. In the Caribbean the term "guesthouse" can mean anything. Sometimes so-called guesthouses are really like simple motels built around swimming pools. Others are small individual cottages, with their own kitchenettes, constructed around a main building in which you'll often find a bar and a restaurant that serves local food. Still others are more like small inns, often with private bathrooms, luxury linens, and boutique amenities. The guesthouse or inn usually represents very good value, simply because it does not have the full-service amenities of a resort or hotel.

In the TCI, you can find inns or guesthouses in Grand Turk, Salt Cay, North Caicos, Middle Caicos, and South Caicos .

Renting a Villa, Condo, or House

Particularly if you're a family or a group of friends, a "housekeeping holiday" can be one of the least expensive ways to vacation in the Turks and Caicos, and if you like privacy and independence, it's a good way to go. Accommodations with kitchens are now available on nearly all the islands. Some are individual cottages, others are condo complexes with swimming pools, and many others are private homes that owners rent out. Many (though not all) places include maid service, and you're given fresh linens as well.

In the simpler rentals, doing your own cooking and laundry or even your own maid service may not be your idea of a good time in the sun, but it saves money -- a lot of money. The savings, especially for a family of three to six people, or two or three couples, can range from 50% to 60% of what a hotel would cost. Groceries are sometimes priced 35% to 60% higher than on the U.S. mainland, as nearly all foodstuffs have to be imported, but even so, preparing your own food will be a lot cheaper than eating all your meals at restaurants.

There are also a number of quite lavish homes for rent for which you can spend a lot and stay in the lap of luxury in a prime beachfront setting. Many villas even come with a staff, or at least a maid who comes in a few days a week, and also provide the essentials for home life, including linens and housewares. Condos usually come with a reception desk and are often comparable to a suite in a big resort hotel. Nearly all condo complexes have pools (some more than one). Like condos, villas range widely in price.

You'll have to approach these rental properties with a certain sense of independence. There may or may not be a front desk to answer your questions, and you'll have to plan your own watersports.

For a list of agencies that arrange rentals in Providenciales, see a few recommended options below. If you're looking for rentals in North or Middle Caicos, you can ask the Turks & Caicos Tourist Board for good suggestions.

Make your reservations well in advance. Here are a few agencies that rent in Provo:

• Island Escapes (tel. 250/483-5887 in the U.S. and Canada; www.islandescapestci.com/villas) is a group of villa professionals with a combined 50 years of experience. Island Escapes represents a number of deluxe free-standing private villas all over Provo.

• Turks & Caicos Reservations (tel. 877/774-5486; https://turksandcaicosreservations.com) has lovely deluxe villas ranging in size from one to seven bedrooms (and higher) on Grace Bay, Turtle Cove, Long Bay Beach, and Chalk Sound. Their collection also includes options on the islands of Parrot Cay and Ambergris Cay.

• Seafeathers Villas (tel. 649/941-5703; www.seafeathers.com) has a small but select grouping of beachfront villas, cottages, and condos, many with private pools.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

U.S. and Canadian citizens must have a passport or a combination of a birth certificate and photo ID, plus a return or ongoing ticket, to enter the country. Citizens of the United Kingdom, Commonwealth countries of the Caribbean, the Republic of Ireland, and E.U. countries must also have a current passport.

All travelers coming from the Caribbean, including Americans, are now required to have a passport to enter or reenter the United States. Those returning to Canada are also required to show passports. Cruise ship passengers must also meet the requirement. You'll certainly need identification at some point, and a passport is the best form of ID for speeding through Customs and Immigration. Driver's licenses are not acceptable as a sole form of ID.

Customs

Generally, you're permitted to bring in items intended for your personal use, including tobacco, cameras, film, and a limited supply of liquor -- usually 40 ounces.

Just before you leave home, check with the Turks and Caicos Customs or Foreign Affairs department for the latest guidelines -- including information on items that are not allowed to be brought into your home country -- since the rules are subject to change and often contain some surprising oddities.

On arriving in the Turks and Caicos, you may bring in 1 quart of liquor, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 8 ounces of tobacco duty-free. There are no restrictions on cameras, film, sports equipment, or personal items, provided they aren't for resale. Absolutely no spear guns or Hawaiian slings are allowed, and the importation of firearms without a permit is also prohibited. Illegal imported drugs bring heavy fines and lengthy terms of imprisonment.

You should collect receipts for all purchases made abroad. You must also declare on your Customs form the nature and value of all gifts received during your stay abroad. It's prudent to carry proof that you purchased expensive cameras or jewelry on the U.S. mainland. If you purchased such an item during an earlier trip abroad, you should carry proof that you have previously paid Customs duty on the item.

Sometimes merchants suggest a false receipt to undervalue your purchase. Beware: You could be involved in a sting operation -- the merchant might be an informer to U.S. Customs.

If you use any medication that contains controlled substances or requires injection, carry an original prescription or note from your doctor.

For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," then go to "Travel Smart" and click on "Know Before You Go.") Or contact the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

U.K. citizens should contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (tel. 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.), or consult its website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Citizens of Australia should request a helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices called Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

For New Zealand Customs information, contact New Zealand Customs at tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786, or log on to www.customs.govt.nz.

Getting There

The main point of entry for international flights into the Turks and Caicos is Providenciales International Airport (PLS) (http://plsairport.com); Grand Turk and South Caicos also have international airports. The Provo airport was recently upgraded to handle its growing influx of visitors -- good news for fliers, since a bigger airport means more competition and, hopefully, more competitive rates. Carriers include American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com), Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aircanada.ca), , Bahamas Air (tel. 800/222-4262; http://up.bahamasair.com), British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297 in the U.S., 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.com), Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S. and Canada; www.delta.com), JetBlue (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com), and United (tel. 800/864-8331; www.united.com/en/us/). WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com) flies to and from Toronto. Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com) offers flights between Provo and Fort Lauderdale. InterCaribbean Airways (tel. 649/946-4999; http://intercaribbean.com) flies between Provo and Jamaica, the Dominican Republic, the Bahamas, Grand Turk, and Haiti. Caicos Express (tel. 649/941-5730; www.caicosexpress.com) flies between the TCI islands as well as to and from the Dominican Republic and Haiti.

The Provo airport has limited tourist services. Gilley's Cafe (tel. 649/946-4472; open 7 days a week for breakfast and lunch), near the domestic arrivals and departures area, has surprisingly good food and a good and spicy conch chowder. The international departure lounge has a few duty-free shops -- including Jai's (tel. 649/941-4324), which sells fine jewelry; Maison Creole (tel. 649/946-4748), which sells charming handcrafted items (most of which are made in Haiti); and Turquoise Duty-Free (tel. 649/946-4536), which sells liquor and Cuban and Dominican cigars -- but the only food source is a snack bar with microwave pizza, chips, gum, and drinks. If you have a long wait ahead of you -- and hungry kids in tow -- consider getting a bite at Gilley's before your flight.

Never on a Sunday (or a Saturday) -- If you can possibly swing it, avoid flying in or out of Provo on Saturday or Sunday during peak season. These are the days when the weekly villa or condo rentals turn over, and the modest-size airport is overrun with travelers arriving and departing -- the result being that the Customs process at arrivals can be agonizingly slow and the departure lines long and full of (understandably) cranky kids.

Traveling on to the Other Islands

If your final destination is any of the other TCI islands, you will be taking either a domestic flight on a small plane from the Provo airport or traveling by boat (generally from Walkin Marina at Heaving Down Rock, in Leeward on Provo's northeast coast, about 20 min. from the airport; to get there you'll need to take a taxi from the airport if your hotel doesn't offer airport transfers).

You can fly from Provo to Grand Turk, Salt Cay, North Caicos, Middle Caicos, or South Caicos with Caicos Express (tel. 649/941-5730; www.caicosexpress.com).

Keep in mind that most of these small airlines have weight restrictions, which means you may have to store any heavier luggage in the Provo airport during your trip.

Visitor Information

The Turks and Caicos Tourist Board (http://turksandcaicostourism.com) has offices in Regent House, Providenciales (tel. 649/946-4970), and on Front Street, Cockburn Town, Grand Turk (tel. 649/946-2321). The New York City office is overseen by Pamela Ewing (Pewing@turksandcaicostourismusa.com; tel. 800/241-0824). In Canada, the tourism board has an office at 340 Sheppard Ave. East, Suite 100, Toronto, ON (tel. 866/413-8875 or 416/642-9771).

Sightseeing on the Web -- The following recommended Turks and Caicos-specific websites can be of enormous help in planning your trip:

• http://turksandcaicoshta.com: The official site of the Turks & Caicos Hotel and Tourism Association.

• www.tcmuseum.org: The Turks & Caicos National Museum is a delight, and its website is an informative reflection of the museum's collection, the islands' history and culture, and the ongoing research projects affiliated with the museum.

• www.timespub.tc: A fabulous resource, the website for the quarterly magazine Times of the Islands, has meaty features on TCI flora and fauna, history, culture, food, and business.

Staying Connected

Without Your Own Computer

Most hotels and resorts in the TCI feature small business centers or libraries where guests have complimentary use of computers with high-speed Internet access. The number of computers available is often limited, however, and you may have to wait your turn to use one.

With Your Own Computer

The wireless world (Wi-Fi) is up and rolling on the Turks and Caicos Islands; most resorts have wireless Internet access. For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call.

Calling Home

Calling home from the Turks & Caicos to a foreign number requires use of that country's international area code. Making international calls from the Turks and Caicos can be costly, in particular if you're dialing direct from your hotel room, where you may be charged more than $2 a minute. You can use any GSM cellphone if it has international roaming capabilities; ask your provider about activating international roaming capability before you leave home. One way to avoid the high costs of calling home from your hotel room is to use your unlocked GSM phone and buy a local prepaid SIM card in the TCI.  

Tips for Families

The TCI is highly recommended as a family destination. Hotels and resorts by and large welcome families with open arms, and even those with specific adults-only aspects have developed delightful kid-friendly programs and kids camps. The gentle, clear, shallow waters and soft-sand beaches of the TCI are particularly attractive for families with toddlers and young children, and older kids will have plenty of nonmotorized watersports activities (snorkeling, sailing, parasailing) to keep them happy.

Baby equipment: Most hotels and resorts in Provo are happy to provide cribs, highchairs, and other baby equipment. (Amanyara even provides parents with Diaper Champs, toddler potties, and homemade baby food!) If you're renting a villa or condo, however, you may need to rent baby equipment.

Baby-sitting: Most resorts can arrange babysitters. When you book a resort room or villa with Turks and Caicos Reservations (tel: 877/774-5486; https://turksandcaicosreservations.com), they can arrange service with fully trained sitters and nannies. 

Condo-hotels: Many rooms and suites in TCI hotels and resorts come with full-kitchen facilities, and some resorts even offer to prestock your fridge before you arrive.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

For the TCI, sustainability of resources is not just a fashionable notion; it's basic survival. For centuries, island inhabitants have had to make do with the resources available to them. The land is largely arid and sandy; rainfall is sparse and fresh water a scarce and precious commodity.

So far, an emphasis on high-end, low-impact tourism has worked to temper the impact of rapid development and helped to maintain the delicate balance between commercial interests and environmental ones. Height limits along Grace Bay have slowly creeped up, but most resorts are still under five stories (the new Ritz-Carlton, at 12 stories, may challenge the status quo). Most resorts have implemented their own eco-initiatives. The West Bay Club has its own waste-treatment system and recycles gray water (wastewater from dish, shower, and sink, and laundry water) for landscaping purposes. Each room in the Wymara Resort is equipped with an Energy Management System (electricity is turned on with your room key), and a high-efficiency central air-conditioning system reduces consumption by 30%. On Parrot Cay, the construction of a large coconut plantation is part of the resort's drive toward self-sustainability.

Of utmost importance to the nation is the maintenance of its most precious natural resource: the marine environment, which includes the spectacular coral reef system. Although the effects of climate change and recent major hurricanes (and even a fast-growing bacterial disease) continue to threaten the integrity of the reef system, it's still relatively healthy. The waters around East Caicos, which is not land-developed, are particularly pristine. A number of initiatives are underway to maintain the health of the reefs and prevent a "slide towards another spoiled paradise," says Mark Parrish, owner of the local eco-pioneer Big Blue Unlimited.

Eco-tourism got a big boost here when the entire Grace Bay area was awarded national marine park status. No commercial or sport fishing is allowed in the protected 2,630-hectare (6,500-acre) Princess Alexandra National Park. No jet-ski central this; and hopefully never will be. National marine parks have been established on and around just about every island on the TCI; for a full list of protected areas, go to the Department of Environment and Coastal Services website at www.environment.tc. Even outside park boundaries, mooring buoys have been established at all dive sites and mooring areas to avoid possible damage from anchors. TCI dive operators are a particularly enlightened bunch in regards to reef preservation and resource conservation.

The scarcity of fresh water has always been an issue on these islands -- never more so than now with the growing influx of visitors. To prevent water shortages, modern reverse osmosis plants have been constructed on Provo, Grand Turk, and at the new Sailrock Resort in South Caicos.

The daily air importation of fresh food to meet the needs of the tourist population is leaving a hefty carbon footprint, however. It's been estimated that a whopping 90% of food consumed on the island is imported from the U.S., Haiti, and the Dominican Republic -- with a whopping annual price tag to match: The Turks & Caicos Free Press reported that in 2008-9 the food import bill came to around $63 million. That's why it's so heartening to hear that agriculture is undergoing a revival in the Turks and Caicos. In the fertile soil of North Caicos -- traditionally the breadbasket of the TCI, raising fruits and vegetables for TCI inhabitants throughout the 20th century -- farmers are getting a boost from government initiatives. Subsidies are reviving a 143-acre working farm in Kew, which is growing and selling produce in North Caicos and a small farmer's market in Provo. (We saw peppadews, beans, and fresh pigeon peas on a recent visit.) Demonstration plots have shown the productive potential of North Caicos soil: Growing in abundance are tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, cabbages, fruits (papayas, mangoes, bananas, melons), even herbs.

General Resources for Responsible Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Money

The U.S. dollar is the legal currency of the Turks and Caicos. Traveler's checks are accepted at most places, as are Visa, MasterCard, and American Express.

ATMs/ABMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM.

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before you leave home. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. And if you use a debit card, the fees may be higher still -- again, check with your bank before you leave home. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, contact your bank for the details before you leave home.

ATMs -- Provo has an increasing number of ATMs (aka ABMs), but don't expect to find a cash machine on every street corner. The other islands may have only one or two ATMs total. Note that the Provo airport has two ATMs; one at international check-in and the other at the international arrivals hall.

Small Bills & Loose Change -- If you plan to travel to some of the less developed islands, bring plenty of petty cash (small bills and loose change) for snacks, incidentals, and gratuities.

Traveler's Checks

You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

If you carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money, they provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Almost every credit card company has an emergency toll-free number that you can call if your wallet or purse is stolen. Credit card companies may be able to wire cash advances immediately, and in many places they can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Citicorp Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/336-8472. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282 for all money emergencies. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309.

When to Go

The Weather

Aside from the idyllic seas and skies, the weather here is a big draw. The average temperature on the Turks and Caicos Islands ranges between 85° and 90°F (29°-32°C) from June to October, sometimes reaching the mid-90s (35°C), especially in the late summer months. From November to May the average temperature is 80° to 84°F (27°-29°C).

Water temperature in the summer is 82° to 84°F (28°-29°C) and in winter about 74° to 78°F (23°-26°C). A constant easterly trade wind keeps the climate at a very comfortable level.

Grand Turk and South Caicos have an annual rainfall of 53 centimeters (21 in.), but as you travel farther west, the average rainfall can increase to as much as 102 centimeters (40 in.). In an average year the Turks and Caicos Islands have 350 days of sunshine.

Mosquitoes and no-see-ums can be a problem year-round. However, more mosquitoes come out during the rainy season, which usually occurs in autumn.

If you come in the summer, be prepared for broiling sun in the midafternoon.

Consult the Weather Channel's online forecast for the latest information.

Hurricanes: The curse of Caribbean weather, the hurricane season lasts—officially, at least—from June 1 to November 30. But there's no cause for panic: Satellite forecasts give enough warning that precautions can be taken. Always monitor weather reports if you plan to visit during hurricane season.

The High Season & the Off-Season

Like much of the Caribbean, the Turks and Caicos have become a year-round destination. The high season runs roughly from mid-December to mid-April, which is generally the driest time of year in the Caribbean. Hotels charge their highest prices during the peak winter period, and you'll have to make your reservations well in advance—months ahead if you want to travel over the Christmas or New Year's holidays or in the depths of February, especially around Presidents Day weekend in the U.S. Easter and spring break are popular times for families to visit.

The off-season in the Turks and Caicos—roughly from mid-April to mid-November (although this varies from hotel to hotel)—is a perfectly nice time to visit. Yes, the temperatures are somewhat higher, but the southeasterly trade winds work to temper the heat, as do brief (but more frequent) rain showers. And in most cases, hotels, inns, and condos charge lower rates this time of year.

Note: Some hotels use the off-season for refurbishment or bustling construction projects—which can be an annoyance if you're looking for peace and quiet. Make sure to ask what, if any, work is going on. If you decide to go anyway, ask for a room far away from the noise.

Holidays

• New Year's Day, January 1

• Commonwealth Day, the second Monday in March

• Good Friday, the Friday prior to Easter

• Easter Monday, the Monday after Easter

• National Heroes Day, the last Monday in May

• Queen's Official Birthday, mid-June

• Emancipation Day, August 1—commemorates the freeing of enslaved people in 1834

• National Youth Day, the last Friday of September

• Christmas Day, December 25

• Boxing Day, December 26

Getting Married

As TCI's former premier, the Honorable Dr. Michael Misick, proved when he married Hollywood starlet LisaRaye McCoy in 2006 in a celebrity-studded wedding at Amanyara, the Turks and Caicos Islands are a hot destination-wedding spot. (It's no guarantee that the marriage will last, alas; theirs didn't.) You can get married barefoot on the beach, in a ballroom at a luxury resort, on a sailboat, or in one of the island's colorful churches, to name a few choice scenarios. An increasing number of resorts and tour operators are equipped to handle weddings soup-to-nuts. Here is a sampling of options:

• Sail Provo (tel. 649/946-4783; http://sailprovotci.com) can organize a wedding on one of its large catamarans or on a secluded beach, with all the trimmings, for up to 64 people.

• The Palms (tel. 866/877-7256; www.thepalmstc.com) offers customized wedding services and your choice of ceremony locations (on the beach, in the Palms Court -- which was featured in Modern Bride -- or in the Messel Ballroom) and reception locations (the Messel Ballroom, on the beachside wooden deck, or in the courtyard).

• Beaches Turks & Caicos (tel. 800/SANDALS [7263257]; www.beaches.com/resorts/turks-caicos) marries couples on a regular basis -- in high season as many as 80 couples a month. It's big business for Beaches, and they take it very seriously, with an on-site wedding coordinator and complete wedding packages to choose from.

You need to meet the following legal requirements to marry in the TCI: You will need to bring a passport, a copy of your birth certificate, proof of status from your place of residence (if single, a sworn affidavit), and a divorce decree if you're divorced. You will need to pay a $250 license fee. You must be on island for 48 hours to establish residency, and anyone under 21 will need to have parental or guardian consent. Note: If you plan to marry in one of the island churches, you may need proof of membership.

The Turks and Caicos Islands marriage certificate is legally recognized in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. For more details, contact the office of the Registrar General in Provo at tel. 649/946-2801.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most resorts, condos, and villas in the Turks and Caicos provide elevators and are wheelchair accessible.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities.

Avis Rent a Car has an "Avis Access" program that offers such services as a dedicated 24-hour toll-free number (tel. 888/879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; and accessible bus service.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com) and Open World magazine, published by SATH .

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The area/country code for the TCI is 649.

ATMs & ABMs -- CIBC FirstCaribbean has 24-hour ABM service at the main branches of its bank on Provo, Grand Turk, and South Caicos and a branch in the Saltmills shopping complex on Provo's Grace Bay Road. Scotiabank has 24-hour ATMs at Waterloo Plaza on Grand Turk and at four locations on Provo: at the Provo airport check-in hall; at the Graceway Gourmet on Grace Bay Road; next to the Graceway Plaza on Leeward Highway; and at Petro Plus on Millennium Highway. RBC Royal Bank (tel. 649/941-4776; www.rbcroyalbank.com/caribbean) has an ATM at Graceway Plaza on Leeward Highway.

Banks -- Branches and ATMs of CIBC FirstCaribbean International Bank (tel. 649/946-4245; www.firstcaribbeanbank.com) and Scotiabank (tel. 649/946-4750; www.scotiabank.com) are at convenient and central locations on both Provo and Grand Turk. RBC Royal Bank (tel. 649/941-4776; www.rbcroyalbank.com/caribbean) is located at Graceway Plaza on Leeward Highway.

Business Hours -- Most shops are open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm, but hours vary. Banks are generally open Monday to Thursday from 8:30am to 3pm and Friday from 8:30am to 5pm. Most grocery stores are open 7 days a week but do not sell liquor, beer, or wine on Sunday, although you can buy alcoholic drinks on Sunday at restaurants and bars.

Currency -- The U.S. dollar is the official currency.

Dentists -- Dental Services Limited is located in the Medical Building on Leeward Highway in Providenciales (tel. 649/946-4321; www.dentist.tc).

Doctors -- Dr. Sam Slattery sees patients at the Grace Bay Medical Centre (Neptune Plaza, Allegro Rd., Providenciales; tel. 649/941-5252; emergencies: 649/231-0525; www.gracebaymedical.com). Associated Medical Practices is located in the Medical Building on Leeward Highway in Providenciales (tel. 649/231-0642; emergencies: 649/331-4357). Associated also has a dive recompression chamber.

Drugstores -- Grace Bay Pharmacy, located in Neptune Plaza on Dolphin Drive between Grace Bay Road and the Leeward Highway (tel. 649/946-8242), also has a branch in Grand Turk, near the salinas in Cockburn Town (tel. 649/946-1266). Island Pharmacy is in the Associated Medical Building on Leeward Highway in Providenciales (tel. 649/946-4150). Flamingo Pharmacy is in the Graceway Plaza on Leeward Highway (tel. 649/941-4527).

Electricity -- The electric current on the islands is 120 volts, 60 cycles, AC. European appliances will need adapters.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 or 999 for an ambulance, to report a fire, or to contact the police.

Hospitals & Medical Facilities-- In April 2010, Turks & Caicos Island Hospital, the nation's first modern hospital, opened its two centers: the Cheshire Hall Medical Centre (on Providenciales) and the Cockburn Town Medical Center (on Grand Turk). Grace Bay Medical Centre is an urgent-care medical facility in Providenciales (Neptune Plaza, Allegro Rd., Providenciales; tel. 649/941-5252; for emergencies call tel. 649/231-0525). Grand Turk Hospital is on Hospital Road in Grand Turk (tel. 649/946-2040). The other islands have community clinics.

Internet Access -- Most resorts and hotels have some sort of Internet access.

Language -- The official language is English.

Pets -- All you need to bring a pet onto the islands is a signed veterinary certificate (dated within 1 month of travel) stating that the animal is free of contagious or infectious disease and up-to-date on his or her rabies and distemper vaccinations. YOu also need to provide a completed import application and pay a $50 fee per animal. There is no quarantine period for incoming pets.

Post Office -- The primary post office in Providenciales is the George Brown Post Office, located downtown at the corner of Airport Road (tel. 649/946-4676). It's open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 4pm and Friday from 8am to 3:30pm. The Grand Turk Post Office is located on Front Street in Cockburn Town (tel. 649/946-1334). It's open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm.

Taxes -- A departure tax of $35 is payable when you leave the islands (often rolled into the cost of your airfare). The government collects an 12% occupancy tax, applicable to all hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants in the 40-island chain. Resorts often add a 10% to 15% service charge on top of the government tax. Tax on cruise arrivals is $3.50 per passenger.

Telephone -- To call Turks and Caicos, dial 1 and then the number. The country code for the TCI is 649. The international-operator telephone service is tel. 115. Local directory assistance is tel. 118.

To call a phone carrier in the U.S., dial 0, then 1, and then the number. You can make domestic and international calls using your credit card or prepaid phone cards, available in $5, $10, and $15 denominations -- although rates for either are often as exorbitant as calling direct from your hotel room (you'll be charged more than $2 a minute, depending on the time of day -- and many hotels even charge $1 and up for local calls). Public pay phones accept prepaid phone cards only. You can buy these prepaid phone cards at a number of retail outlets and hotels, including Avis, and Club Med (Provo); Parrot Cay (Caicos Cays); the Middle Caicos Co-op; and the Poop Deck (Grand Turk). If you have a GSM cellphone with international roaming capacity, you can use that on the islands; a money-saving option is to buy or rent a cellphone in the TCI.

Time -- The islands are in the Eastern Standard Time zone, and daylight saving time is observed.

Tipping -- Hotels often add 10% to 15% to your bill automatically, as a "service fee" or "resort fee." If individual staff members perform various services for you, it is customary to tip them something extra. If you go on an island tour, watersports charter, or beach excursion, it's always a good idea to tip your guide 10% to 20%, depending on the level of service you receive. In restaurants 15% is appropriate unless a service charge has already been added; if in doubt, ask. Tip taxi drivers 10% to 15%.

Water -- Government officials insist that the water in Turks and Caicos is safe to drink. Nonetheless, you may want to stick to bottled water, especially if you have a delicate stomach.

Health & Safety

The Turks and Caicos Islands are great for the soul but may be even better for the body. The TCI has no poisonous snakes or spiders, no malaria or other tropical diseases, and is rabies-free. The wildest animals you'll find here are the islands' "potcake" dogs, which are generally as gentle as lambs. The waters are protected by a coral reef that rings the islands, so big waves and rough, turbulent surf are rare; in fact, the sea is often so gentle and clear (and the sandy bottom so free of rocks) that this is the perfect spot to teach toddlers and young children how to swim.

In April 2010, the Turks & Caicos Island Hospital, the nation's first modern hospital, opened its two centers: the Cheshire Hall Medical Centre (on Providenciales) and the Cockburn Town Medical Center (on Grand Turk).

Keep the following suggestions in mind to stay healthy and safe on your trip:

• Be mindful of the tropical sun. Wear sunglasses and a hat and use sunscreen liberally. Limit your time on the beach the first day. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If your exposure is followed by fever or chills, a headache, or a feeling of nausea or dizziness, see a doctor. And keep hydrated: Drink lots of water if you plan to be outside for long periods.

• Bring insect repellent. Fortunately, malaria-carrying mosquitoes in the Caribbean are confined largely to Haiti and the Dominican Republic. In the early evening, the witching hour for no-see-'ums, it's a good idea to spray on insect repellent (most restaurants have outdoor seating and often have insect-repellent spray on hand).

• Be mindful of diving risks. The Turks and Caicos is a diver's paradise. One of the more serious risks associated with diving is decompression sickness -- more commonly known as "the bends." Associated Medical Practices (located in the Menzies/Bourne Medical Building on Leeward Hwy. in Providenciales; tel. 649/946-4242) has a dive decompression chamber to treat the bends. Note: The treatment is expensive, so be sure to check your dive insurance before you make the plunge.

• Consider drinking bottled water during your trip. If you experience diarrhea, moderate your eating habits and drink only bottled water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.

• Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage. Carry written prescriptions in generic -- not brand-name -- form, and dispense all prescription medications from their original labeled vials. Many people try to carry drugs via prescription containers; Customs officials are aware of this type of smuggling and often check medication bottles. (Exception: Liquid prescriptions must be in their original containers, per the latest Transportation Security Administration regulations.)

• Pack an extra pair of contact lenses (if you wear them), in case you lose one set.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or in Canada 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns on the islands you're visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors. The United States' Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel-medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice.

What to Do if You Get Sick Away from Home -- Finding a good doctor in the Turks and Caicos is not a problem, and most speak English.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. If you worry about getting sick away from home, you might want to consider medical travel insurance.

Crime & Safety

The TCI is one of the safest places to live and visit in the Caribbean, but with the rise in tourism numbers has come a slight uptick in petty crime. Some have attributed the trend as a natural by-product of development; others believe the changing population dynamics -- the influx of a non-national workforce -- is at work. The locals, used to a world of unlocked doors, are deeply offended when someone resorts to robbing people of their possessions -- but petty theft does take place, so protect your valuables, money, and cameras. Don't flash big wads of money around, especially when you arrive at the airport. Use common sense and be aware of your surroundings at all times. Keep your doors locked.

Islands in Brief

The TCI topography is pretty prosaic. Most islands are low lying, with sandy soil and a low scrub cover, but each has its own unique look and feel. North Caicos, the so-called garden island, is a sprawling rural landscape rimmed by blue-green seas. Middle Caicos has soft emerald cliffs overlooking rocky coves, beaches fringed by casuarina trees, and the occasional cotton or sisal plant left over from plantation days. Grand Turk, Salt Cay, and South Caicos are low-key charmers that hold quaint architectural remnants of the islands' colonial past, while much in Provo (Providenciales) is as bright and shiny as a new penny. All have stupendous soft-sand beaches lapped by tranquil azure seas.

In an interesting twist, the boom that hit Provo has drawn people to tourist-industry jobs away from their homes -- and traditional livelihoods -- on the other islands. In Middle Caicos in particular, you'll see homes abandoned to the underbrush, and once-thriving communities reduced nearly to ghost towns. To ensure that the traditional cultures and way of life on the islands aren't lost forever, the Turks & Caicos National Trust has made it its mission to "safeguard the natural, historical and cultural heritage of the Turks and Caicos Islands." To find out more about the National Trust's latest projects, go to the website www.nationaltrust.tc.

The Caicos Islands

Providenciales -- The 98-sq.-km (38-sq.-mile) island of Providenciales (Provo) and its splendid 19km (12-mile) Grace Bay beach were a tourist mecca waiting to happen. In the early 1980s, Club Med was the only game in town until the government opened the door to boutique resort development. Now Provo's tourist infrastructure far surpasses anything on Grand Turk, the TCI seat of government. This is where the action is, literally, with the bulk of the country's lodging, dining, tours, activities, and entertainment. Still, don't expect a bustling metropolis: Provo is a pretty laidback place to be -- and that's a big part of its charm. One of the larger islands of the Turks and Caicos, Provo is largely flat and arid, with miles of scrubland. Today, Provo is the entry point and main destination for most visitors to the TCI.

Caicos Cays -- Also called the Leeward Cays, these gorgeous little islands were once the haven of pirates. Many are still uninhabited except by day-trippers beachcombing and snorkeling the shallows, while others are private islands with secluded resorts. Little Water Cay is a National Trust nature reserve and home to the endangered rock iguana.

North Caicos -- The projected site of the second big TCI boom remains a sleepy rural landscape. Roads are much improved, and a deepwater harbor built to accommodate freight-bearing ships (and a ferry btw. North and Provo) has been completed. But the beaches are largely unspoiled and untrammeled, and lodgings and restaurants few and far between. Locals say this sparsely populated, 106-sq.-km (41-sq.-mile) island is a snapshot of Provo before the boom.

Middle Caicos -- The largest island in the Turks and Caicos (125 sq. km/48 sq. miles), Middle Caicos is also, conversely, one of its most underpopulted (300 fulltime residents). It's a landscape of contrasts. Soft green slopes overlook beautiful Mudjin Harbor. Along a rise above the sea is Crossing Place Trail, a narrow 18th-century path so named because it leads to a place where people once crossed a sandbar at low tide to reach North Caicos. A massive aboveground limestone cave system used by Lucayan Indians some 600 years ago is here to be explored. At Bambarra Beach the sunlit aquamarine shallows stretch long into the horizon. Middle has little of Provo's tourism infrastructure; it attracts visitors who don't mind roughing it a bit amid a gorgeous seaside landscape. A causeway now links Middle to North Caicos -- an essential link that is delivering more traffic to the island.

South Caicos -- Hard hit by hurricanes in 2017, this still-sleepy fishing community of some 1,200 people and 21 sq. km (8 sq. miles) is recovering, and its two major luxury resort projects, Sailrock and Rock Resort, are back on track. Clearly, with its excellent diving and bonefishing opportunities and historic Bermudan-style architecture, "Big South" is an up-and-coming spot.

East Caicos -- This unspoiled, uninhabited 47-sq.-km (18-sq.-mile) island was once for the home of large sisal and cotton plantations and the East Caicos Cattle Company. Now it's largely swampland and savanna and a few wild donkeys, but its coral reef is one of the healthiest in the region.

West Caicos -- This lovely 29-sq.-km (11-sq.-mile) island (with a 202-hectare/500-acre nature preserve) is the site of some of the islands' best scuba diving.

The Turks Islands

Grand Turk -- People who only visit Provo miss out on experiencing the country's rich heritage. Enchanting Grand Turk, just 11*3km (7*2 miles), has colorful 19th-century Bermudian architecture, abandoned salinas where the business of salt-raking was conducted from the late 17th century until the 1960s, a 19th-century lighthouse, and a first-rate museum housed in the Guinep House, believed to be around 180 years old. Grand Turk is still recovering from the devastation brought by hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017. The small-town atmosphere of Cockburn Town belies the fact that this Grand Turk village is the capital of the TCI. The diving here along the continental shelf wall is stupendous, traditionally the big draw for most visitors. But that likely changed in 2006, when Carnival Cruise Lines opened a large, theme-park-style cruise terminal at the southwest end of the island to welcome the arrival of 2,000-plus passenger ships. It's the only cruise-ship port in the TCI. Now a big ship is in port 4 or 5 days a week, and excursions with local tour operators (Segway rides, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding) have become popular draws for cruise passengers. A favorite excursion is a snorkel trip to uninhabited Gibbs Cay, where you can swim in clear, shallow water with docile stingrays.

Salt Cay -- Salt Cay (pop. 60) is the kind of place where you can paste salvaged flip-flops onto your neighbor's boat while he's away, and everyone (including your neighbor) thinks it's a hoot. It's the kind of place where a hermit crab race is the talk of the town. It's also the kind of place where people come from around the world to partake in world-class watersports activities (snorkeling, diving, whale-watching), swim in the luminescent green sea, and comb the secluded beaches for flotsam and jetsam. Salt Cay is admittedly small (6.5 sq. km/2 1/2 sq. miles) and missing many of the basic accoutrements of 21st-century civilization (one ATM, just a handful of cars), but it is also the site of significant colonial-era buildings.