Western breakfasts can be found at John's Information Cafe (8am-11pm) at the back of the Turpan Hotel on Qingnian Lu 41; John's is also a good place for a drink under the shade of grapevine trellises in the heat of the day. Hotels offer safe but boring Muslim and Chinese fare and evening performances of singing and dancing. For real food, during the day head for the bazaar just west of the Bank of China, where you can enjoy pastries stuffed with minced lamb (samsa), kabobs, and homemade ice cream scraped from gigantic sweet orange mounds. Around 8pm, when the heat of the day has passed, nightmarkets selling fantastic kabobs, Uighur dumplings, and noodles set up all around the city. The market outside of Hongyuan Binguan on Gaochang Lu (next to the Post Office) is one of the best. Just point to what you want. To stock up on snacks for long journeys the Tianmajiayuan Supermarket on the northeast corner of the junction of Wenhua Lu and Bezeklik Lu; there's also a nightmarket here.

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