For a full sit-down meal, you can try local Chiapan food at Las Pichanchas, Av. Central Oriente 837 (tel. 961/612-5351). It's festively decorated and pretty to look at. The emphasis is on meat, with several heavy dishes on the menu. I would recommend the filete simojovel (a thin steak in a not-spicy chile sauce) or the comida grande, which is beef in a pumpkinseed sauce. Eating here is a cultural experience, but I usually prefer to head over to the Flamingo, 1 Poniente Sur 168, just off Avenida Central (tel. 961/612-0922), which serves standard Mexican dishes: enchiladas, mole, roast chicken. The Spanish owner also owns an elegant steakhouse called El Asador Castellano, on the west side of town. Take a taxi.

If all you want is tacos, several good places are around the El Parque de la Marimba. This plaza has free marimba music nightly. Of the local taco restaurants bordering the plaza, Parrilla Suiza and El Fogón Norteño are two good choices. Both have good grilled tacos. The Parque de la Marimba is on Avenida Central Poniente, 8 blocks west of the main square.

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