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Holding almost iconic status since its 1992 opening (when there were scant good choices in Ubud), this downtown double-story mansion is invariably bustling with expats and tourists, while remaining surprisingly intimate. The décor is a winning recipe of sunny, Mediterranean-hued interiors littered with Balinese artifacts and comfy sofas and armchairs which are mighty hard to extricate yourself from. Better still is Casa Luna's imaginative (and affordable) global fare, with culinary inspiration drawn from Mediterranean and Asian sources, along with owner Janet De Neefe's adopted home, Bali (this is the flagship restaurant of De Neefe's hospitality empire, which includes Honeymoon Guesthouses). Emphasis is on nutritious home cooking, with locally sourced organic produce wherever possible, creating a preservatives- and colorings-free zone.

Signature dishes cover Balinese-style paella, a smoked duck feast for two, and lime tarts, plus superior coffees from Australian-trained baristas. (On your way out, stock up on freshly baked goodies from the front bakery.) Other standouts are the all-day breakfasts and weekend brunches (8am to 3pm), which are some of Ubud's finest. Sunday evenings feature jazz performances. Downstairs in the basement is the latest addition, Bar Luna, a bohemian style café-bar that's the self-proclaimed "hippest literary salon in Bali." It's associated with Ubud's annual Writers and Readers Festival and attracts illustrious literary, artist, and musician types. Bar Luna's nightly arts/culture program runs from open mic and poetry readings to documentary screenings and African beats.