Many consider this open-sided, no-frills warung (local-style restaurant), off a small side street a few hundred meters from Ubud's Royal Palace, one of the best places for Bali's iconic dish: spit-roasted suckling pig (babi guling). The jury may be out on this, but there's no denying that after over two decades, Ibu Oka is one of Bali's main tourist attractions, inevitably featured on international travel shows and luring diners from afar for their sole dish. Originally a ritual offering in Balinese Hindu ceremonies, whole suckling pigs here are spit-roasted for hours over coconut shell and wood fires (go check them out back, in seven blackened oven cubicles, pigs rotating over open fires before being cut up), their carcasses stuffed with a secret recipe of spices and their skin lavished with coconut and spiced oil. Various tasty serving options are offered on banana-leaf plates; a full-meal portion may get you soft, succulent roasted pork meat, crispy skin, pig-blood sausage, and deep-fried intestines, accompanied by rice, greens, soup, and de rigueur sambal (spicy condiment); there's also a basic Special Dish where you can add extras as listed above.

This Ubud institution has serving the hordes down to a slickly run operation, and considering its popularity, the meal is relatively cheap. It invariably gets packed with groups of both tourists and locals at lunchtime, 11am to 1pm, so be sure to arrive relatively early for both seats and the best cuts. This is solely a daytime joint, closing when the pig meat runs out. A smaller version, Ibu Oka 1, with the same menu and tried and tested format, stands opposite Ubud Palace at the restaurant's original sitebefore it became a runaway success.