Dungarpur's Palaces
It's hard for anyone flipping through Angelika Taschen's book Indian Style to refrain from gasping when they come to the pages recording the magnificent apartments of 13th-century Juna Mahal. The palace -- one of three, and the only one not too dangerous to visit -- commands a sweeping view of Dunparpur and the Araveli Hills. A seven-story fortresslike structure that appears to spring forth from its rocky surrounds it doesn't look like much from the outside, but inside, it houses one of the world's most interesting "art galleries": Every wall and column is covered with beautiful, intricate frescoes -- tiny paintings; mosaics with glass, mirror, and tiles; or artfully used porcelain plates embedded into the walls. And don't forget to look above you: On one ceiling panel, gorgeous images of Krishna depict the playful god getting up to all kinds of shenanigans. In one of the massive downstairs reception rooms, the entire floor is covered with huge decaying Persian carpets. Yet even though it houses a treasure trove of art and design, the palace is far from being a tourist attraction: There are very few visitors and not a single hawker in sight, only the toothless old retainer whose trembling hands hold the keys while he waits for you to drink it all in before he opens another, even more stunning room. Perhaps it is precisely this -- viewing such beauty in absolute solitude -- that makes the experience so special, but the artworks are considered to be of the very best in Rajasthan. Don't miss (you're unlikely to, as long as the old man is around to leer at your reaction) the collection of miniature paintings depicting scenes from the Kama Sutra; locked away behind cupboard doors in the Maharaja's Suite on the top floor so as not to corrupt his subjects, it's a veritable A to Z of erotic possibilities, including some near-impossible feats (definitely bring a flashlight).
Although Dungarpur is slightly less than a 2-hour drive from Udaipur, you will surely want to consider combining the tour with a stay at nearby Udai Bilas Palace (tel. 02964/23-0808 or 93-1465-3967; www.udaibilaspalace.com; 22 units; doubles from Rs 5,100, suites Rs 6,300, grand suites Rs 8,000, Art Deco suite Rs 11,000, Maharawal suite Rs 15,000), which has a magical lakeside setting and offers no hardship except if you choose to row your own boat that is. This, too, is a wonderful experience, particularly if you are looking for some privacy far from the madding crowd, have an interest in the Deco period, relish a sense of nostalgia, or are a keen bird-watcher. Built on the shores of the pretty Gaibsagar Lake, it's excellent for birders all year-round.
It's hard for anyone flipping through Angelika Taschen's book Indian Style to refrain from gasping when they come to the pages recording the magnificent apartments of 13th-century Juna Mahal. The palace -- one of three, and the only one not too dangerous to visit -- commands a sweeping view of Dunparpur and the Araveli Hills. A seven-story fortresslike structure that appears to spring forth from its rocky surrounds it doesn't look like much from the outside, but inside, it houses one of the world's most interesting "art galleries": Every wall and column is covered with beautiful, intricate frescoes -- tiny paintings; mosaics with glass, mirror, and tiles; or artfully used porcelain plates embedded into the walls. And don't forget to look above you: On one ceiling panel, gorgeous images of Krishna depict the playful god getting up to all kinds of shenanigans. In one of the massive downstairs reception rooms, the entire floor is covered with huge decaying Persian carpets. Yet even though it houses a treasure trove of art and design, the palace is far from being a tourist attraction: There are very few visitors and not a single hawker in sight, only the toothless old retainer whose trembling hands hold the keys while he waits for you to drink it all in before he opens another, even more stunning room. Perhaps it is precisely this -- viewing such beauty in absolute solitude -- that makes the experience so special, but the artworks are considered to be of the very best in Rajasthan. Don't miss (you're unlikely to, as long as the old man is around to leer at your reaction) the collection of miniature paintings depicting scenes from the Kama Sutra; locked away behind cupboard doors in the Maharaja's Suite on the top floor so as not to corrupt his subjects, it's a veritable A to Z of erotic possibilities, including some near-impossible feats (definitely bring a flashlight).
Although Dungarpur is slightly less than a 2-hour drive from Udaipur, you will surely want to consider combining the tour with a stay at nearby Udai Bilas Palace (tel. 02964/23-0808 or 93-1465-3967; www.udaibilaspalace.com; 22 units; doubles from Rs 5,100, suites Rs 6,300, grand suites Rs 8,000, Art Deco suite Rs 11,000, Maharawal suite Rs 15,000), which has a magical lakeside setting and offers no hardship except if you choose to row your own boat that is. This, too, is a wonderful experience, particularly if you are looking for some privacy far from the madding crowd, have an interest in the Deco period, relish a sense of nostalgia, or are a keen bird-watcher. Built on the shores of the pretty Gaibsagar Lake, it's excellent for birders all year-round.
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