From Morelia, take the modern toll road Autopista Morelia Uruapan. Officially, the road is Hwy. 14D or 120 (the same road that heads to Pátzcuaro) but you won't find that on many maps. Buses leave every half-hour from either Terminal A or B of Morelia's bus station (first or second class). Driving will take 1 1/2 hours, and the first-class bus takes a little less than 2 hours.
The tourist office (tel. 452/524-0667) is at Emilio Carranza 20. It's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 2pm.
The main plaza, Jardín Morelos/Plaza de los Mártires, is a long, narrow rectangle running east to west, with the churches and La Huatápera Museum on the north side and a few hotels on the south.